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Discover Mykonos Beyond the Parties: An Authentic Greek Island Experience

Bex Hall
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Discover Mykonos Beyond the Parties: An Authentic Greek Island Experience

Discovering Mykonos’ Hidden Tranquillity

When people think of Mykonos, the island’s party reputation dominates the imagination. Sun-drenched beaches packed with loungers, music pulsing from beach bars and glamorous nightlife are the hallmarks of this Cycladic hotspot. As someone who has called Greece home for over 15 years, I’d always been hesitant to visit. I assumed Mykonos wasn’t for those seeking peace, culture, and authenticity.

Mykonos Town - by Rebecca Hall
Mykonos Town – by Rebecca Hall

However, I stand corrected as a trip to the island in the shoulder September season proved me wrong. Staying at two luxury properties; O and Deos, both by The Myconian Collection—introduced me to a side of Mykonos I never knew existed. And at the heart of this discovery was an unforgettable experience–The Rizes Farmstead.

Myconian O Hotel - Mykonos
Private pool at the Myconian O Hotel – Mykonos. Image by Rebecca Hall.

Staying at Mykonos O and Deos: Peaceful Havens on a Bustling Island

The Myconian Collection’s O at Ornos beach, 2.5km southwest of Mykonos main town and admittedly one of the busiest beaches on the island, nevertheless offers an oasis of calm amidst Mykonos’ lively reputation. Deos, on its elevated position overlooking Mykonos Town, is just well enough away from the bustle of the streets yet within walking distance, albeit downhill. These properties redefine what it means to visit the island, balancing luxury with a genuine sense of connection to their surroundings.

Deos Hotel - Mykonos. Image Rebecca Hall
Deos Hotel – Mykonos. Image by Rebecca Hall

Both hotels pride themselves on creating curated experiences that connect guests to the island’s culture and heritage—which is how I found myself at Rizes Farmstead.

Sunset on Mykonos from private pool at Deos Hotel. Image by Rebecca Hall.
Sunset on Mykonos from a private pool at Deos Hotel. Image by Rebecca Hall.

Rizes Farmstead: A Glimpse Into Traditional Greek Life

Located near the picturesque village of Ano Mera, Rizes Farmstead is a journey back in time and celebrates Mykonos’ authentic side. In Greek, ‘rizes’ translates to ‘roots’, which is exactly what this immaculate recreated 1950s farmstead invites you to do: reconnect with the land, traditions, and simpler ways of life.

A Guided Tour of Mykonos’ Heritage

My visit began with a guided tour of the farmstead’s grounds. From the lovingly restored original 1950’s homes and outbuildings to the farm animals grazing in their pens and dovecoats, every detail transported me to a bygone era.  The scent of wild herbs wafted through the air and the sound of cicadas provided a natural soundtrack, hard to believe I was just a short drive from the busy streets of Mykonos Town.

Cooking Greek Classics: A Hands-On Workshop

The highlight of my visit to Rizes was a hands-on cooking workshop. Under the guidance of the local family who run the folklore farmstead, I learned to prepare some of Greece’s most beloved dishes. Rolling up my sleeves, I mixed ingredients for tzatziki, the iconic yogurt-and-cucumber dip, and carefully shaped meatballs seasoned with herbs from the farm’s gardens.

Creating lunch from natural ingredients at Rizes Farmstead - Mykonos. Image by Rebecca Hall
Creating lunch from natural ingredients at Rizes Farmstead – Mykonos. Image by Rebecca Hall

The farmstead’s open kitchen was a flurry of activity as fellow visitors joined in. There was a palpable sense of camaraderie as we shared tips, laughed over our attempts and swapped stories. What struck me most was how the dishes we prepared were so deeply rooted in the land. Every ingredient, from the vegetables to the herbs, came directly from the surrounding farm, highlighting the connection between Mykonos’ cuisine and its natural environment.

A Farm-to-Table Feast

After the cooking session, it was time to eat! We gathered around a communal table in the shade of an olive tree, where a feast awaited us. Alongside the tzatziki and meatballs, other farm-fresh dishes: crispy zucchini fritters, tangy cheese pies, and a vibrant Greek salad bursting with flavour. Each bite was a testament to the simplicity and purity of Greek cuisine.

The meal was accompanied by local wine, its crisp notes perfectly complementing the flavours on our plates. As I sat there, sharing food and conversation with people from around the world, I felt a profound sense of connection—to the land, to the culture, and to the moment itself. It was a side of Mykonos I had never expected to find.

Immersing in Mykonos’ Heritage

Beyond the culinary experience, Rizes offers a deeper understanding of Mykonos’ heritage. The farmstead’s recreated homes and traditional tools provided a glimpse into how life on the island once was. It’s a stark contrast to the Mykonos of today with its luxury boutiques and beach clubs and a reminder of the island’s humble beginnings.

Engaging with this history added a new layer to my appreciation of the island. It’s easy to be dazzled by Mykonos’ glamour, but places like Rizes show that its true beauty lies in its roots. For me, it was a journey into the heart of Greece, where tradition and hospitality intertwine.

Discovering the Alternative Mykonos

My time at Rizes Farmstead, combined with the tranquillity of O and Deos, transformed my view of Mykonos. I found the island, so often defined by its party reputation, has much more to offer, especially out of high season. From the quiet charm of Ano Mera village to the authentic experiences curated by these two exceptional hotels, Mykonos revealed itself as a destination where culture and calm can, actually, coexist.

If you, like me, have hesitated to visit Mykonos because of its party reputation, I encourage you to reconsider. Seek out its quieter corners, immerse yourself in its traditions, and let its authentic side surprise you.

What to Pack for Summer in Mykonos

  • Light, breathable clothing: Think linen dresses, shorts, and cotton shirts to stay cool.
  • Comfortable sandals: Ideal for exploring cobbled streets and the farmstead.
  • Sun protection: A wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen are essentials.
  • A reusable water bottle: Stay hydrated while being eco-conscious.
  • A light jacket or shawl: Evenings can get breezy, especially in quieter areas like Ano Mera.
  • My Greek Island All Round Packing Guide should help you.

    Rebecca Hall's Greek island packing list
    Rebecca Hall’s Greek island packing list

Where to Stay in Mykonos for an Authentic Experience

Mykonos O by The Myconian Collection: A serene retreat with luxurious suites, private terraces, and stunning views of the Aegean.

Deos: A haven of understated elegance, featuring infinity pools, wellness amenities, and a focus on relaxation.

Both properties offer curated experiences, like visits to Rizes Farmstead, that showcase the island’s cultural depth.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, Mykonos has the power to surprise you. Step away from the crowds, embrace its authentic side, and discover a destination that’s so much more than its reputation.

Further reading

Authentic Mykonos - An alternative side to this party famous party island

Travel Packing Guide to Istanbul Turkey

Bex Hall
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Travel Packing Guide to Istanbul Turkey

Recently I had the good fortune to visit Turkey, specifically Istanbul–the largest city in the country despite not being the capital.
There are many excellent sites to be seen in this city that straddles two continents; Europe and Asia.
The magnificent shipping Straight of Bosphorus is a hub with many ships of all sizes scuttling backward and forwards with not only massive container ships but also small sailing boats and commuter ferries taking people to/from their homes to work and visa versa in the various sides of Istanbul.

Istanbul–Turkey
Photo by Tonia Kraakman

But with the magnificent sites and its location, it’s pretty hard to know what to pack, especially given that you’ll:
– Want to respect cultural norms
– Keep warm on chillier nights as the damp seeps through our bones.

So here I’ve decided to prepare a travel packing guide to Istanbul to help you prepare.

Istanbul–A Brief History

Located on a sea of water known as the Bosphorus Strait, the city is unique in that it straddles Europe and Asia, making it a crossroads of civilizations and a dynamic cultural bridge between two continents. It was originally founded by Greek settlers around 660 BCE and became a major cultural and trade hub.
In 330 CE, the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great renamed it Constantinople, making it the capital of the Byzantine Empire with the city’s prime location nurturing its prosperity. It blended European and Asian influences. In 1453, it was conquered by the Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II and became the heart of the Ottoman Empire. Renamed Istanbul, it thrived as a cultural melting pot and is unique today for its vibrant blend of cultures; where centuries-old mosques, Byzantine churches, and Ottoman palaces coexist alongside modern skyscrapers and bustling neighbourhoods.

Things to see and do

I’m not going to go into huge detail about what to see and do, this is primarily a travel packing guide to Istanbul.  I will list them here and instead, link to places where you can book ahead:

– Blue Mosque–No trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Blue Mosque.  Built in the 1600’s it has six minarets and is called ‘blue mosque’ either because:
1) The inside is covered with Blue İznik tiles
2) Years ago, the sailors sailing past it on the Sea of Marmara saw the blue of the sea reflected off it.
Have a visit and decide for yourself.  One thing’s for sure, it’s beautiful at night.

blue mosque, turkey, istanbul
Photo by Walkerssk

– Sightseeing cruise along the Bosphorus Straight–see Europe and Asia by sea

– Hagia Sophia Mosque–Built in the 6th century and has 30 million gold tiles in its interior

hagia sophia mosque, hagia sophia, byzantine architecture
Photo by mostafa_meraji
  • Basilica Cistern–This one’s my favourite. Sultanahmet is an Istanbul neighbourhood and this Cistern is an ancient underwater reservoir from the Byzantine era with over 336 marble and granite columns.
    They’ve now juxtaposed the old and new with some unique art exhibits in the waters.  It’s a fascinating sight.  Can you see the jellyfish installations in the image below?
a group of people walking down a long hallway
Photo by Zeki Okur

– Spice Market of Istanbul–a must-visit to see the plethora of colours and smells.  Be warned, it gets crowded and the stall holders really shout their wares loudly.  Can be a bit much if you’re sensitive to noise and crowds.

Istanbul Packing List

Because Istanbul is a cross between East and West, and more than 90% of Istanbul’s population are Sunni Muslims, you’re going to want to pack respectful clothing as what you might wear in a hot country/city elsewhere may not be appropriate here.
While Istanbul is certainly a cosmopolitan city, with this article citing that; 

Turkish designers and stylists are now emerging on the international scene, revealed by the many fashion events of the year organized in the most beautiful palaces of Istanbul…

you’d still best err on the side of modesty, especially when visiting mosques.  Here is my travel packing guide to Istanbul:
Clothing
  • Lightweight layers: T-shirts, long-sleeve shirts, and a light sweater or jacket for cooler evenings, especially in the autumn onwards as humidity can reach 70%.
  • Comfortable walking shoes: Trainers or sandals to explore the city.
  • Modest attire: Long skirts or trousers and tops with sleeves for visiting mosques and religious sites.  This is VERY important to respect the cultural norms of the country.  Women will not be allowed into mosques if they don’t have a skirt that is at least below the knee, or a headscarf to cover their shoulders and head.
  • Sunglasses and hat: For sun protection during the day.  Istanbul can get very hot and if you’re wandering around a lot, you’re going to want to protect yourself.
  • Swimsuit: If you’re planning to visit a hammam (Turkish bath) or a hotel pool.  This sounds obvious but you’d be surprised at the amount of people who don’t equate Istanbul as a swim destination.  Even if you don’t plan on doing so, you can’t leave without not having a Hamam, and a swimsuit is advised, although when I went you’re asked to strip anyway and given underwear to wear, so don’t worry!

So enjoy your trip to Istanbul, Turkey, and pack accordingly.

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Istanbul Packing List - LifeBeyondBorders

Cruise Essentials Packing List

Bex Hall
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Cruise Essentials Packing List

Yes, we’re nearly coming to the end of the summer–but that doesn’t have to mean your cruising days are over.

I write primarily about Greece as a destination, and what to see and do. Articles relevant to a Greek cruise packing list are:

Many people take cruises around the Greek islands in the height of summer, increasingly so in the early spring and into the September period too, as these are cooler months.

I have been on a couple of smaller Greece cruises as I prefer these to the larger ships, specifically with Greece specialist Variety Cruises, a family company who, in their 75 years of operation know a thing or two about these Mediterranean islands, and lesser-known spots on the mainland.

For my cruises around the Greek islands aboard their small ships, I recommend packing the following:

Cruise Packing List

Loosely covering up is the way to go–and not just from a customs and etiquette point of view, but also to keep those beating sun rays off.

woman on the boat watching the sea
Photo by ben o’bro

Here follows a list of products that I personally have–so there’s no sponsorship but there are Amazon links so heads up, I will earn a small commission if you kindly choose to purchase (at no extra charge to you).

  • Keep the sun out of your eyes with SPF sunglasses, and cover up with these sun protection pants.
  • There’s also a whole host of Long sleeve UV protection shirts to choose from to keep you protected too.
  • A shawl or wrap is a good idea if going into a church–it can cover your shoulders and legs. Also good for covering up at night when there’s a sit-down dinner.
  • Keep your neck cool.  These neck-cooling towels are great and in an array of colours to go with any outfit.  I use them during the day and you simply wet them, shake off the excess water/squeeze them out then wrap them around your neck to keep your body temperature down.  The great thing? They come in a waterproof pack so you can pop it back in once you’ve finished with it without getting your clothes damp.
  • It goes without saying that Factor 50 sunscreen should be regularly applied.

Other essentials include a hat.  This SPF50 waterproof sunhat keeps the rays off.
To be more environmentally friendly, these reusable water bottles are a must. Many cruise ships have a water station to refill your bottle.

water bottle, hydration, water
Photo by ClassicallyPrinted

Keep your face hydrated too. This thermal water spray is a great addition to your cruise packing list, for when you take the optional tours on offer.

Swim Stops

When on your cruise, you’re bound to have swim stops at some beautiful places.  However sandy they look, underwater it may be very pebbly and sharp, so as part of your cruise packing list, I highly suggest buying sea shoes so you can comfortably walk out into the water for a better beach and swim experience.

Photo by Vincent Giersch
Photo by Vincent Giersch

Packaging these essentials for your cruise, especially in the summer, guarantees you a comfortable trip. And here’s a handy PDF Printable version of the packing list.

Bon Voyage!

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Greek Island Packing List

How to stay cool in the Greek Summer

Bex Hall
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How to stay cool in the Greek Summer

You’ve decided to come to Greece for your summer vacation–after all, there’s so much to see here:  
There are free things to do in Athens
– some amazing ancient wonders in Greece beyond the Acropolis
plus
– so many islands to explore such as Rhodes, and Zakynthos
and
– lesser visited islands such as beautiful Hydra–a mere 45-minute ferry ride away from Athens.
  
Greece is undoubtedly a beautiful country to explore in all seasons.  My Tips for Travelling in Greece gives an excellent overview of how to understand the weather during different seasons.   
This article will explore how to stay cool in Greece during the increasingly hot summer months.

blue and white chair under white umbrella on beach during daytime
Photo by Marko Kelecevic

Summer temperatures in Greece

The hottest month in Greece is August when temperatures are said to average 29 degrees C (84 degrees F), but in reality get much hotter than that, especially in Athens with the concrete buildings just absorbing the heat…and can reach to 40 degrees C (104 degrees F).
The Greek islands are somewhat cooler with their sea breeze, but Crete, for example, can reach 37 degrees C (98.6 F) as early as June. 
Mainland Greece such as the Peloponnese with destinations like Kalamata on the coast and Nafplio, Greece’s original capital, can see temperatures of 32 C (90 F) and even high 30 Cs / low 100 Fs respectively in early June.

There’s no doubt about it.  Summer is a hot time to visit Greece so here I present some options for staying cool during this period. 

NOTE: There will be some affiliate links here for the purchase of any products.  I will earn a commission at no extra charge to you.

woman sitting on poolside setting both of her feet on pool
Photo by Angelo Pantazis

Stay out of direct sun from about 11am-4pm

Many of you will think I’m exaggerating.  No–as well as getting super hot (see above), with it obviously comes the sunburn and dizziness associated with spending time in the direct sun. 
If you insist on sunbathing, then at least slap on Sunscreen and a hat, preferably a sunhat that has an SPF 50 factor.

Stay hydrated

This may sound like an obvious one, but you’d be amazed at the amount of people who go abroad to a hot country and think the beers will keep them hydrated. According to The Independent:

It is recommended to drink around eight glasses of water per day which equals around 1.5-2 litres per day

but not all in one go, space it out.  
So carry around water with you in a cooling reusable water bottle to help the environment by not using plastic bottles. 

man in white crew neck t-shirt drinking from black sports bottle
Photo by Nigel Msipa

Cover up

Loosely covering up is the way to go–and not just from a customs and etiquette point of view, but also to keep those beating sun rays off. 

  • Keep the sun out of your eyes with SPF sunglasses, and cover up with these sun protection pants. 
  • There’s also a whole host of Long sleeve UV protection shirts to choose from to keep you protected too.
  • A shawl or wrap is a good idea if going into a church–it can cover your shoulders and legs.
  • Keep your neck cool.  These neck-cooling towels are great and in an array of colours to go with any outfit.  I use them during the day and you simply wet them, shake off the excess water/squeeze them out then wrap around your neck to keep your body temperature down.  The great thing? They come in a waterproof pack so once you’ve finished with it, you can pop it back in without getting your clothes damp.
Greek Church - Athens - LifeBeyondBorders
Copyright Rebecca Hall

My Greek Island Packing List is a great download to help you check you’ve got everything.

Safety

All of the above come under safety, but in Greece the Civil Protection regularly sends heat and other weather-related alerts to cell phones.  Here’s how to enable your cell/mobile to receive these:
– Open Settings on your phone
– Tap Notifications, then Wireless Emergency Alerts
– Choose how often you want to receive them  

Conclusion

Be sure to exercise caution when spending time in the sun.  To summarize:

  • Loosely cover up
  • Wear SPF30-50 sunscreen
  • Make sure you drink plenty of water at regular intervals
  • Loose shirts are great, not just for the sun but for going into churches too
  • SPF pants/trousers are a godsend
  • Try a handheld travel fan 

Enjoy your Greek holiday!

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How to Stay Cool in Summer in Greece by LifeBeyondBorders
Copyright LifeBeyondBorders

IN THE MEDIA

Bex Hall
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IN THE MEDIA

As well as maintaining her own website, as a Greece, central European and Mediterranean specialist Rebecca has been published in several airline magazines including easyJet Traveller, Wizz Air, Malaysia Airlines and Air Canada, The Sunday Times Travel section and hotel reviews for Forbes Travel and the Telegraph online. She is a contributing author to Lonely Planet (Greece & Experience Greece) and Rough Guide Travel Guidebook series (Greece & the Greek Islands and Portugal) and contributed articles to prestigious publications such as CN Traveler, Business Insider, Fodors and Frommer’s.

As well as writing quality first-person articles and reviews, Rebecca is an excellent copywriter who can be relied upon to provide timely content.

Furthermore, as a debut novelist, her novel Girl Gone Greek – published in 2015 – has received wide acclaim for the charming story interwoven with the reality of a changing world, none less so than in Europe. Written into a script in 2017 it won the Best Feature Fiction Script category in the 2018 London Greek Film Festival and Best Film Script at the 2020 Santorini Film Festival.

Follow her Girl Gone Greek site for more information.

Below are links to articles in which she has been featured and where else she has written.

Independent Newspaper

Discover the Luxury and Laid-Back Charm of the Athens Riviera

How Longterm Travel Guide Publishing Stays Relevant. Highlighted in this article by Publishers Weekly.

The Hotel Guru

Review of 91 Athens Riviera luxurious glamping, Athens Riviera, Greece

The Hotel Guru

Review of Kinsterna Hotel, Monemvasia, Peloponnese, Greece

Why you should swap Santorini and Mykonos for Hydra this summer. My article for the Independent.

The Hotel Guru

A review of the gorgeous, 5* Mandraki Beach Resort on Hydra Island, Greece.

The Hotel Guru

Ever wanted to stay in an old Captain’s mansion on the motorless Greek island of Hydra? See my review of Cotommatae 1810.

Appeared on DJ Borg’s BBC Radio 2 ‘Midnight Mastermind’ on 16APR25, quizzing the DJ about all things Greece. Listen in–can you get the questions correct?

London World - Online Media

Rebecca Hall opens Lonely Planet’s “Women Travel Solo” anthology with powerful essay on her journey across the seas

Things to do in Nafplio, Greece

Bex Hall
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Things to do in Nafplio, Greece

Located at just under a two hour drive or coach ride from Athens, the coastal town of Nafplio–the original capital city of Greece when the new Greek state was formed in 1823–is perfect for a day trip, but there’s so much to see and do in the town and around the area that I suggest spending a long weekend to discover more.

Come with me and explore the things to do in and around Nafplio.

Fortress of Palamidi

Fortress of Palamidi – Nafplio – LifeBeyondBorders

Standing 216 meters, Palamidi keeps a watchful eye over the town as its main fortress. Built by the Venetians in the early 19th century, there are eight bastions with the chapel of Agios Andreas within the central one.

Over the years, Palamidi has had a variety of uses, mainly as a prison in the 1800s. One of the leaders of the Greek Revolution, Theodoros Kolokotronis, was imprisoned here in 1833 and charged with high treason. All prisoners had to undertake hard manual labour.

If you want to walk up to the castle, it’s 999 steps so I suggest taking it slowly. These steps were built by the prisoners as part of their labour.
Tip: Take a taxi up from the Old Town which is a destination in itself; bougainvillea clad cobbled streets leading to the historically important Syntagma Square where, in 1826 a speech was given under the huge plane tree that dominates it by Georgios Gennadios, the ‘Teacher of Greece’ to persuade people to give up their money and possessions in support of the Greek Rebellion against Ottoman Rule.
Enjoy the sweeping views across the Argolic Gulf sea and surrounding mountains from the castle, then walking down.

Bourtzi Fortress

Bourtzi Fortress – LifeBeyondBorders

Bourtzi Fortress is a Venetian castle built on an island just off Nafplio’s coastline.
Built in 1471 it used to be the home of the executioner of the prisoners who were kept in Palamidi Fortress. For 40 years after World War II to the ’70s the fortress operated as a boutique hotel. Nowadays it’s possible to take a boat trip from Nafplio around Bourtzi and in the summer it often hosts music and cultural festivals.
It’s visible from the harbour, so sit and enjoy the view and your Greek coffee from one of the many cafes or tavernas that line the waterfront.
Tip: Double check locally if it’s possible to go onto the island as since Covid-19, restrictions have been in place about actually setting foot on the island, but a boat trip around it is still worth it.

Ancient site of Mycenae

Home to King Agamemmon, Leader of the Greeks through the Trojan War, aside from the Acropolis of Athens Mycenae is thought to be one of the most famous archaeological sites in the country. Half an hour’s drive from Nafplio, Mycenae was a military civilisation that flourished from about 1600 to 1000 B.C.

Legend has it that the huge walls around the site (the crumbled remains of which can still be seen) were constructed by Cyclopes, the one-eyed monster. The most famous aspect of the site is its massive Lions Gate entry point, where the worn figureheads of two lions can be spotted on the archway.

King Agamemnon’s tomb is located approximately a 5-minute drive away.

Entrance to King Agamemnon’s tomb

Ancient Stadium of Nemea & Semeli Winery

About 45-minutes from Nafplio is Nemea, like Ancient Olympia which is also in the Peloponnese and where the Olympic Games originated. Nemea has an ancient stadium where the Nemean Games were hosted every two years; one year before and one year after the Olympics. Only males could take part and since 1994, the games have been re-enacted.

The region has fertile soil and is home to one of Greece’s most celebrated varieties of grapes — the Agiorgitiko, which is produced into rosé and aged in oak. There are several wineries to visit in the region, one of the best and spread out amongst beautiful countryside with views down to the sea is the Semeli Estate. Book a wine-tasting tour and sample several cheeses too.

Cave of Kapsia

About an hour’s drive from Nafplio, come and walk through the other worldly ancient Cave of Kapsia.
It was discovered in 1887 by a French Archaeologist Gustave Fougeres who found human bones and daily utensils made of pottery, proof that as the cave is located in a valley, the valley once flooded and the people sought shelter in the cave, but perished.
The Hall of Wonders has stalactites and stalagmites forming unique shapes over thousands of years in gorgeous colours of reds, blue and yellow.

Dimitsana Mountain Village

Located on the slopes of the Gortynian Mountains, about a one and a half our drive from Nafplio is Dimitsana, a village also known as the ‘Lady of Moria’ (Moria being the name of the Peloponnese during the Middle Ages).
It’s named due to its nobility and the fact it made a great contribution to the Greek Revolution against Ottoman Rule.
The cobbled streets, mountain views down the valley and traditional houses and tavernas are like a living open air museum.

Dimitsana Mountain Village – Peloponnese Greece

Where we’ve been

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Things to do in and around Nafplio, Peloponnese, Greece - LifeBeyondBorders

The (ex) Diplomat interview

Bex Hall
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The (ex) Diplomat interview

As anyone who has watched the recent Alibi TV series “The Diplomat”, as I have, maybe you’re wondering; is that how daily life is like as a diplomat?
For the uninitiated, The Diplomat–a British political thriller with some quite madcap and tongue in cheek moments, it has to be said–follows the daily life of a British diplomat in Barcelona and how she gets British people on holiday out of scrapes. As they maintain: ‘Our job is to protect the interests of all British citizens, regardless of their stupidity’ aka regardless of how drunk they get, whether they break the law, etc. There are new problems to solve every episode with an underlying ongoing subplot.

So it was wonderful to link up with an ex-British diplomat who expressed some frustrations at the series, claiming in response to a tweet I posted that they, too, enjoyed it but as an ex-diplomat themselves, often wanted to shout at the screen ‘That’s not how we did/do things!

As with all things TV, reality must be jazzed up a bit–so it’s with great pleasure ‘X’ has agreed to be interviewed

So I know you’re not a serving British diplomat now, but can you tell us a bit about where you did serve and what time periods?

I joined the UK Foreign Office in 1999 – my first job was in the United Nations Department (UND) which, with its complicated terminology and never ending negotiations over every single word in every text, showed me how detailed and particular the work could be! However, it did allow me to visit the UN in New York on a couple of occasions and represent the UK, which was an incredible experience.

My background is in journalism so while working in this role, I started helping out in the News department at the weekends. So when I moved on from UND, this experience allowed me to become a press officer covering consular work in the Press Office of the FCO in London. I then moved into a management position while working in the press office where I covered a vast range of interesting, exciting, difficult and terrifying stories ranging from kidnaps to high profile arrests of British nationals overseas. I was also in this role when 9/11 happened which became the most intense period of my working life as we answered countless press enquiries and worked night and day to try and find out how many British people were involved and offer our assistance to their families and loved ones. The week after that terrible day I flew out to New York to take over for our press colleagues there while they took a break following that very traumatic period for them. Seeing the towers still smoking and meeting some of the incredible families who had lost loved ones is something I won’t ever forget.

Onwards and upwards

After my stint in the News Department I was lucky enough to get a posting to Kingston, Jamaica in a role as a 2nd Secretary Political and Economics. Most of my work revolved around our drugs and crime policies, liaising closely with the Jamaican government, the police and army, local and UK-based NGO’s, and with colleagues in several other Government departments and law enforcement agencies.

I was in Jamaica from 2002 – 2006 and during that time I met my now husband, became pregnant and gave birth to our first daughter. We returned to the UK and eventually I resigned from the FCO. We had a second daughter and continued travelling with my husband’s job, to Pakistan, St Lucia and South Africa.

What was the process of being employed as a diplomat?

Lengthy! I remember sending in my application in early 1999 and eventually started working in the autumn of that year. Your original application is sifted and if you pass, you are invited to an Assessment Centre. I was lucky that I had also recently sat a similar assessment for the Government Information and Communications service which helped me understand the process. I can’t remember much about it but it almost certainly included an “inbox exercise” and some role play. A few years later I went through something similar to gain promotion within the Office.

After passing the Assessment Centre you’re called for an interview where they want to check you have the competencies they require for the job. This included giving a presentation – all I can remember is that mine was something to do with General Pinochet! But one tip I learned from my own father (who was also a diplomat) leading up to the interview was to read the Economist. It gives a great overview of world affairs.

Being accepted

I remember clearly the day I received the letter, giving me the news I’d been accepted. Apart from having children, it is the thing I’m probably most proud of in my life. I couldn’t believe I would now be able to call myself a diplomat! I had spent my childhood moving around the world with my parents–as mentioned, my father was a diplomat, so the idea that I would be able to carry on travelling and get paid for it made me very happy.

Spoiler if you’ve not seen The Diplomat!

The only thing left was to pass my medical and security interview. The security vetting is alluded to in the Diplomat – although we eventually realise she has been set up to fail by her boss. It’s probably similar to what you think it’s going to be – lots of questions about your finances as well as your past love life and drug taking etc. Luckily I am pretty boring so didn’t have any problems (although it’s worth noting it isn’t so much what you have or haven’t done, it’s what you tell them – and make sure you’re not hiding anything that could later be used against you!)

During your time as a diplomat in Jamaica, what were the more mundane aspects of your work, and are there any experiences that stand out?

flag, jamaica, jamaican
Photo by Clker-Free-Vector-Images

Like many jobs, there’ll be a lot of long meetings, emailing, report writing and looking through accounts. Having had two children since, this period of my life is a bit of a blur but I do remember spending a lot of time trying to get people in the Jamaican government to return my calls! And that wasn’t because they didn’t want to – we had a pretty good relationship with them – but the culture there was very different to the one I was used to in London. It all took a lot longer than we wanted.

But I had a lot of fun as well. I helped organize royal visits, met ministers, had lots of working lunches and evening drinks, visited Barbados and Peru for training, learned so much about an incredible country and met a huge array of amazing people.

Hurricane Ivan

One experience which stands out perhaps for the wrong reasons is when Jamaica was hit by a category 5 hurricane – Ivan. It was pretty terrifying waiting for the huge storm to arrive, the eerie sound of hammering ringing round the island as shopkeepers boarded up. The night it hit, the Jamaican Prime Minister did a live “good luck” broadcast before they shut down all the power on the island – very apocalyptic! In the end the hurricane just brushed the side of the island but it did immense damage and the electrics were off for days. We experienced a couple more hurricanes before we left Jamaica, including one a few days before I went home to give birth to my daughter. That one co-incided with the awful July 5 bombings in London – it was very surreal sitting in a basement of a friend’s house, heavily pregnant, with the storm raging outside while we followed this terrible news from the other side of the Atlantic.

Having watched “The Diplomat” on Alibi, is there anything fundamental that stands out as being incorrect?

The most obvious one is that the main character appears to be acting like a TV detective, not a consul! I actually quite enjoyed it in the end but felt I had to suspend my disbelief about many aspects of the plot – not just how she seemed to be single handedly trying to solve all the crimes but the way she and her staff talked to the British nationals they were trying to help. Most FCO staff I knew, especially consular staff, weren’t that unprofessional! The staff seemed to also get far too involved in each separate case – given how many Brits visit Barcelona, they would never have time to do as much as they seemed to be doing.

We all know that TV and movies have to jazz up the mundane, but how would you have preferred certain aspects to have been portrayed?

Apart from having her spend more time in the office and less running around Barcelona trying to solve crime, the romantic liaisons seemed a bit pointless. I thought her issues with her long-distance boyfriend was quite realistic, but did she really need to get involved with the dodgy German criminal? I also thought it was strange that she took so long to work out her boss was a spook – we figured that out after about episode one!

You continued to travel after your service as a diplomat. What was your favourite country and why?

This is an easy one – South Africa, by a long shot. Partly I think because our children were older (they were 8 and 10 when we arrived and 10 and 12 when we left) so life generally was easier, but also because Pretoria is a great city for expats and South Africa is an absolutely stunning country. I think I need to get a job with the SA tourist board, I loved it so much. Of course there were some things about being there that were undeniably hard (the lingering issues still hanging over everything from the apartheid era, the oppressiveness of living somewhere with such a high violent crime rate, the poverty which was all around you). But our children went to a great school and as a family we made lots of really great friends who we spent a lot of time with; the people are really friendly and welcoming; the weather is almost perfect; the wildlife is out of this world; the food, the wine, the beaches, the travel opportunities….

What role are you undertaking now, and do you see any similarities with your diplomat role? Do you miss the civil service?

I now work as a Communications and Engagement Manager for a large UK charity. While we continued travelling with my husband’s job I had various part-time roles and freelanced as a journalist. When we settled back in the UK so our children could go to secondary school here I started working in Communications for a local charity, and haven’t looked back. The world of work has changed so much, though, from my time in the FCO – I now work remotely from home so hardly know my colleagues, while in the Foreign Office we worked and socialized together and knew each other really well. I miss that part of work but I don’t miss working for the civil service. I wouldn’t want to work there at the moment under this Government but I would consider it again in the future if things changed.

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Ex-Diplomat interview - LifeBeyondBorders

How to Travel to Kalamata

Bex Hall
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0
How to Travel to Kalamata

Kalamata is a seaside town in the Peloponnese region of mainland Greece, famous for the Kalamata Olive and a host of activities in the region.  Here you can discover things to do in Kalamata as it’s well worth a visit.  But how do you travel to Kalamata?  People tend to travel from Athens to Kalamata as it’s only approx. 2.5 hours driving time from the centre of Athens:

Athens to Kalamata

By Bus

The bus leaves from Kifissos station and takes approx. 3hrs 15 mins direct. They run roughly ever 2 hours on the hour, ie: 7am, 9am, 11am etc up until approx. 9.30pm.
Check the schedule and prices here.
From Athens airport you’d get the X93 bus to Kifissos bus station.  It runs every 30-40 minutes and takes about an hour to reach Kifissos bus station.
Exit the Airport Arrivals Hall, turn right, walk past the taxi rank to the little ticket kiosk where the buses wait.  Ticket price is approx. €6.
A taxi will take approx. 45 minutes to the bus station and they’ll charge you about €44.

Drive

Driving takes just over 2.5 hours, about 148 miles and there are plenty of car hire options at Athens Airport. Even if you’ve decided to have a city break in Athens beforehand, I recommend that you still head out to the airport on public transport then hire a car from there–it is NOT fun to try to navigate the traffic through central Athens.

You’ll drive first to Corinth…be sure to stop and take a photo of the famous Corinth Canal, then onwards.  The tolls will cost you approx. €16 and use this really handy Toll Calculator to work out how much the journey will cost in tolls, even a rough estimation of petrol used.

Corinth Canal towards Kalamata
Driving over the Corinth Canal towards Kalamata. Copyright Rebecca Hall

Fly to Kalamata

two white planes flying
Copyright Alicia Steels

Kalamata does have its own airport.  It’s located about 6 miles from the city centre. Whilst not a large airport, it does have tourist flights in season (May–October) from several European destinations and, of course, connecting flights from Athens and Thessaloniki. Airlines that serve Kalamata are:

  • Aegean/Olympic (Greek airlines)
  • British Airways, easyJet and Ryanair from the UK
  • Brussels Airlines from Belgium
  • Austrian Airlines, Swiss Air and Lauda from Austria
  • Condor from Germany
  • Transavia from the Netherlands

However you choose to travel, whether from Athens to Kalamata or if you come from a European gateway, be sure to enjoy your time in this unique region of the Peloponnese.

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How to travel to Kalamata Greece–LifeBeyondBorders

Things to do in Kalamata, Greece

Bex Hall
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12
Things to do in Kalamata, Greece

The Peloponnese is a region in Greece that’s really considered an island within the mainland.  A peninsular of 8,320 sq miles, it’s surrounded by water on all sides and connected to the Greek mainland by the famous Corinth Canal or the Rio-Antirio Bridge, one of the world’s longest multi-span cabled bridges that connects to the pretty harbour town of Nafpaktos on the mainland.  The Peloponnese is also where you’ll also find the seaside town of Kalamata.

The capital of the Peloponnese is Patras, really just a port city but comes alive during Apokries–carnival season starting 10 weeks before Greek Orthodox Easter, in January of each year. Forget Venice, Patras’s carnival is considered to be the largest celebration in Europe!

if there’s one place you really should put on your Peloponnese itinerary though, it’s the quieter seaside town of Kalamata. Although relatively small, there’s no shortage of sites to see and things to do.

Kalamata is a popular university town located in the Messinia region of the Peloponnese, about 2hrs 30 mins from Athens connected by a very good national highway. You may have heard of the famous Kalamata Olive–large and dark brown with a meaty texture and playing an important role in nutrition for 1000s of years.  It’s where this olive originates–but more on that later.
Kalamata also suffered a catastrophic 5.9 earthquake in September 1986 where at least 20 people died and 300 were injured. Reconstructing the town took at least 5 years.  You can read more about the Kalamata earthquake here.

Let’s explore some of the things to see and do in Kalamata and surrounds, and tempt you to visit this unique region of the Peloponnese.

Things to do in Kalamata

Food Tour

Cheese and Olives from Kalamata Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Cheese and Olives from Kalamata Food Tour.  Copyright Rebecca Hall

We all know that the best way to experience a culture is through its food.  One of the best things to do in Kalamata, for me, was to experience a Food and Walking tour of the town with Food Philosophy.  Not only will you have the chance to taste local delicacies, you’ll wander through the Old and New Town and gain insight into Kalamata’s unique history.

Their tour lasts about 5 hours, so be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes/trainers and bottles of water.  Their ‘philosophy’ is to support local family businesses, so during your tour expect to sample local treats and products such as:

  • koulourakia–biscuits made from olive oil from a family run bakery.  Tip: Dip the biscuits in milk or coffee, they’re delicious!
  • a wander to the central market (see below) to purchase local cheeses such as graviera with red pepper and sfela–a cheese similar to feta but saltier and harder.  Tip: Good to accompany with the Greek tsipouro drink
  • a chance to buy the famous Kalamata green olives and olive oil
  • eat a souvlaki in the Old Town

Honey and produce from Kalamata Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Honey and produce from Kalamata Food Tour.  Copyright Rebecca Hall

This is just a smattering of some of the delicious local products you’ll taste. Contact Food Philosophy to find out more and book your tour.

Kalamata Market

Kalamata castle walls by the market - LifeBeyondBorders
Kalamata castle walls by the market – copyright Rebecca Hall

Most Greek towns have a central market–or Agora.  Kalamata is no exception. Another one of my favourite things to do in Kalamata was to wander around the stalls of Kalamata market, a place visited with the food tour (above).

Found at Spartis 31, Kalamata, it sits under the gaze of the castle on the hill. It is open every day of the week with permanent shops open until 2pm, but you’ll want to visit on a Wednesday and Saturday as this is when the farmers and producers set up their stalls, both inside and out, to sell vegetables, fruits, meat, fish and yet more olives.

Kalamata Old Town, Agios Apostoli Church and start of the Greek Revolution

Kalamata has a rich history.  It was one of the first Greek towns to regain independence when on 23rd March 1821, Greek revolutionary forces regained control of the town after the Ottomans surrendered.   This happened at the Church of Agios Apostoloi in the Old Town–a medieval Byzantine church and after this victory, the local population gathered and held their first mass in over 360 years.

Church of Holy Apostles - where the Greek Revolution started - LifeBeyondBorders
Church of Holy Apostles – where the Greek Revolution started. Copyright Rebecca Hall

Nearby you’ll find a fantastic mural, painted by artist Skitsofrenis, in celebration of the defeat in 1821.

Kalamata War of Independence Mural by Skitsogrenis. Copyright Rebecca Hall

The streets of the Old Town are scattered artisanal shops such as places selling fabrics to bakeries, local tavernas and small bars all down its cobbled maze of streets.  One thing’s for sure, to wander the Old Town will be one of your favourite things to do in Kalamata.

Kalamata Castle

One of the most popular tourist attractions in the town, the 13th century Kalamata Castle sits atop a hill and overlooks the Old Town, giving off spectacular views at sunset. During the revolution against the Ottomans in 1821 it was a perfect sanctuary for the locals, and luckily was one of the few buildings that survived the 1986 earthquake relatively in tact.
Kalamata is not a busy town but if you crave peace and quiet, a walk up to the castle is a must.
Don’t miss the nunnery next to the castle, built in the 18th century where you can learn about the traditional weaving of silk on ancient looms.

Ypapaniti Cathedral

You don’t necessarily have to be religious to appreciate the main church that dominates Kalamata. Ypapaniti Cathedral is a vast Byzantine designed temple built in 1873 and inside is the icon of Panagia Ypapaniti, the patron Saint of Kalamata and protectress.
Keep your camera handy as even from outside, the Cathedral makes for great photo opportunities.  And if you can visit on 1st and 2nd February, even better as annually on these dates there’s a procession of the icon of the Panagia in the town centre.  Just one more thing to see and do in Kalamata.

Kalamata Beach

For sure one of the things you must do when visiting Kalamata is to pay the Blue Flag beach of the town a visit. It stretches for 2.5km and is walkable from the city centre, for example about 35 minutes from Kalamata Castle to Navarino ‘Avenue’ where the beach stretches along.
It’s a pebbly beach and the east side is the best for swimming, so gets busy.  Spend the morning or afternoon at the beach and then choose from one of the many tavernas or coffee shops to have a light lunch.

Museums of Kalamata

There are a whole host of museums in the town–surprisingly many given Kalamata’s size. They include, but are not limited, to:

  • The Museum of Traditional Greek Costumes which, as you’ve guessed, showcases the history of local folk dress from the mid-18th to early-20th century.
  • The Military Museum of Kalamata which was opened in 2006 to showcase military history from the 1821 uprising to modern day.  There’s an interesting section on the Greece Macedonian struggles, the Balkan Wars, the Asia Minor Catastrophe and WWI and WWII struggles.  Anyone interested in what Greece has been through throughout the years would do well to visit.
  • Archaeological Museum which originally opened in 1971, was destroyed by the earthquake and then re-opened in 1995.  It showcases pre-historic finds from the surrounding Messinia region, of which Kalamata is the capital.

Things to do around Kalamata

It’s not just in the immediate vicinity of Kalamata that there are great things to see and do.  Come and explore beyond the town, especially if you have a car, to gain an appreciation of the wider area.

Voidokilia beach

You’ll need a car to reach this beautiful horseshoe shaped bay, guaranteed to get you posting on Instagram and mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey, as it’s 56km/35 miles from Kalamata.  But it’s worth spending a day snorkelling its turquoise shallow waters and floating on your back, taking in the views of Paleokastro Castle, a 13th century castle built by the Franks that stand guard over this natural paradise.
Pack a picnic with produce bought from Kalamata’s Central Market (above) and enjoy your day out.

Mikri Mantinia Beach

If you’re looking for a beach nearer Kalamata, you can’t go wrong with a visit to Mikri Mantinia.  At only 10km/6 miles away, this Blue Flag awarded beach nestles under the gaze of Mount Taygetos–the highest mountain in the Peloponnese in the range of the same name. It’s a white pebble/shell beach which means it makes the water even more translucent–but at the same time can be sore on the feet, so bring bathing shoes.
Tavernas line the shore to provide you with that much needed Greek salad for lunch, and it’s perfect for families as there’s a water park–not the huge scale twisty slides but enough to keep the kids entertained.

Ancient Messene

For the culture and history buffs among you there are plenty of ancient sites to see, Ancient Messene being one such place.  35km/22 miles from Kalamata and built in 369 B.C. it is the ruins of a large classical city state where you’ll find an ancient stadium, agora, ancient theatre with a capacity in its day for up to 10,000 spectators, a fountain house and museum next to the site with finds from the excavation.

Ancient Messene
Ancient Messene. Copyright Tiluria

Interesting fact: It’s slowly been excavated over the last 100 years, but only a third of the site has been discovered–there’s still more to unearth!

Other ancient sites to see in the Peloponnese

  • Ancient Olympia–115km/71 miles
  • Ancient City of Mycenea–140km/87 miles
  • Nemea; Stadium and Site plus wine routes–133km/83 miles
  • Ancient Sparta–58km/36 miles
  • Byzantine castle town of Mystras–55km/34 miles
  • Methoni & Koroni Castles–63km/39 miles and 52km/32 miles respectively
  • Rock town of Monemvassia–186km/116 miles

Kardamyli in the Mani

For a picture postcard destination, head to the seaside village of Kardamyli.  Those of you who were fans of the ‘Before Sunrise/Sunset’ trilogy of films with Ethan Hawke may well recognise the small village as it was used in the filming of Before Midnight, the last one of the series.

Kardamyli in the Mani. LifeBeyondBorders
Kardamyli in the Mani. Copyright Rebecca Hall

It’s 36km/22 miles from Kalamata in the famous Mani region and the best way to explore Kardamyli is to drive there, have a wander around and sit at one of the tavernas, then take a kayaking tour with Messinia Kayak.  It’s actually a 4 hour tour and well worth it as you a different perspective of the area, quite literally.  It’s lovely viewing the Peloponnese from the sea.
You don’t have to be an expert–all levels are catered to, just a reasonable level of fitness.

Coastline of the Mani - LifeBeyondBorders
Coastline of the Mani. Copyright Rebecca Hall

I don’t particularly consider myself ‘fit’ but managed fine.  The kayaks are built for two people and as a solo traveller I had one of the instructors with me.
Not only do you get to see beautiful scenery, your guide will explain about the famous Mani vendettas, usually involving waring families and involved plots to wipe out the other family by murdering them.  The waring families would lock themselves in their towers and fight, where as other families would also lock themselves away to keep out of the way.
Long running vendettas were sometimes resolved by property exchanges, or marrying off younger members of the family–think of a Greek version of Romeo and Juliette.
Your Messinia Kayak guide will give you much more info about this fascinating culture of the Peloponnese.

How to travel to Kalamata

  • A bus from Athens takes approx. 3hrs 15 mins direct and goes from Kifissos Bus Station and runs roughly ever 2 hours on the hour, ie: 7am, 9am, 11am etc up until approx. 9.30pm.
    Check the schedule and prices here.
    From Athens airport you’d get the X93 bus to Kifissos bus station.  It runs every 30-40 minutes and takes about an hour to reach Kifissos bus station.
    Exit the Airport Arrivals Hall, turn right, walk past the taxi rank to the little ticket kiosk where the buses wait.  Ticket price is approx. €6.
    A taxi will take approx. 45 minutes to the bus station and they’ll charge you about €44.
  • Kalamata does have a small airport located about 12km/7 miles outside the city. During the high season there are flights from several European cities in the Netherlands, UK, Germany, Finland, France, Switzerland and Italy, plus of course flights from Athens and the Greek city of Thessaloniki.

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Guide to Athens neighborhoods, Greece

Bex Hall
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2
Guide to Athens neighborhoods, Greece

Athens is an eclectic city with many things to do.  This great post about free things to do in Athens will help you plan your city break and have an affordable time.
Equally, my Athens Travel App (see below) can be downloaded to your iPhone, iPad or Android app and you can have travel planning in the palm of your hand to discover the best neighborhoods in Athens:

Athens' Best - Touchscreen Travels
Click to get your Athens’ Best travel guide for Android or iPhone

As Athens is such a varied city, here I compile for you a guide to Athens neighborhoods/best neighborhoods in Athens to give you a flavour of what to do here.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Plaka

Plaka is by far the most explored neighborhood of the city and one of the best neighborhoods in Athens.  Referred to as the ‘neighborhood of the Gods’, Plaka is built around the ancient Agora on a hill, right below the famous Acropolis.  It’s quite steep and climbs up to stunning views across the city, so wear comfortable walking shoes.

There are several activities one can do in Plaka;

Guide to Athens neighborhoods; Find the hidden island village of Anafiotika

The hidden island village of Anafiotika is located under the northeast side of the Acropolis and this best neighborhood in Athens was built in the reign of Otto of Greece – the Bavarian prince who in 1832 became the first modern King of Greece.  Construction workers were needed to work on the King’s Palace and they came from Anafi, a tiny island in the Cyclades chain with a population of roughly 271 people today.

Today there are only 45 houses remaining, yet wander through the alleyways and seeing this unique neighborhood – planned so that it resembled a Greek island – really does make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
There’s also incredible street art to be seen here.

Plaka also has the flea market where you can buy anything from old drachma coins to tavli boards.  My best souvenirs from Greece article shows you some of the delights you can buy from the Plaka flea market.

You’ll also find the oldest street in Athens and the whole of Europe located in Plaka.
Also nestled under the slopes of the Acropolis hill, Tripodon Street–referring to the copper tripods that ran the length of both sides of the street in ancient times–regularly had many nighttime torch processions in honour of the god Dionysus.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Syntagma Square

Also known as Constitution Square and named after the constitution that Otto, the first King of Greece, was forced to lay down after a popular and military uprising on 3 September 1843, Syntagma Square is a hive of commercial and political activity in Greece and is located in front of the 19th Century Old Royal Palace that now houses the Greek Parliament.


Bordered by several cafes and shops and the famous Hotel Grande Bretagne, immediately outside the Parliament building the Evzone Guards guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

It’s within walking distance of many of the popular sites including Monastiraki, the Acropolis and Parthenon as well as Ermou Street, the tenth most expensive retail street in the world.

ermou photo
Photo by Panegyrics of Granovetter

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Psyrri

North west of Monastiraki you’ll come across another old neighborhood in Athens.

In Psyrri you’ll find old neo-classical buildings, trendy bars and bars playing Greek blues (rembetika), some boutique hotels, restaurants and tavernas all centering around Iroon Square, not forgetting the unique Little Kook themed cafe mixed in with the eclectic street art.  It’s the place where all generations hang out until the early hours and is full of life.

psyrri photo
Photo by kouk

TIP: Be sure to head along the main Athanais Street in Psyrri up to the Varvakios Central Market–the ‘Grand Central Station’ of food where celebrity chefs and locals alike via for the best meat, fish, fruit and vegetables.

Street Art in Athens – an alternative tour.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Kolonaki

We’re now heading into the classy area of Athens, where Armani and Chanel rub shoulders with Gucci, not to mention original Greek designers, art galleries, one centre of the Benaki Museum–preserved inside a neo-classical house and many upscale cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating and boutique hotels, making it a lively district at any time of the day or night.

Kolonaki translates to ‘Little Column’ and is named as such for the two metre column in Kolonaki Square.

Nestled at the base of Lycabettus Hill, it’s a fantastic Athens neighborhood to even just window shop, then sit and nurture a Greek coffee for a few hours with friends before heading back to your hotel; the CocoMat Hotel in Kolonaki is famous for its unique mattresses made in their factory in northern Greece and their eco design concept.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Exarchia

If you’re looking for a slightly edgier, alternative part of town, Exarchia is where you’ll want to explore.

exarchia photo
Photo by domjisch

Kolonaki and Exarchia tend to bleed into each other and it’s probably best not to base yourself here as trouble can frequently occur–it’s where many students and anarchists hang out to plan their next moves, hence don’t be surprised to see booted riot police on every street corner and around the square.


But Exarchia does have a great buzz to it.  Coffee shops, politically charged street art, anarchist bookshops, vintage shops selling anything from rotary telephones to vinyl records and jazz bars–anything goes.
The people that frequent Exarchia are actually pretty friendly, with its youth culture…just be on your guard and take note of the days of the year that mark holidays or events that could potentially make being there an issue:

17NOV – Student Uprising against the ruling Junta in 1973.  The Junta retaliated to reimpose martial law.  It’s a very important time in recent Greek history and worth reading (click link)  to understand why this day is ‘remembered’ every year–usually accompanied with trouble, unfortunately.

06DEC – On 06DEC 2008, a 15 year old Greek student by the name of Alexandros Grigoropoulos was killed by a special officer in Exarchia, resulting in widespread rioting, not just in Athens.  This date tends to stir a hotbed of emotions yearly.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Kastella and Mikrolimano

Kastella District - Piraeus - Athens - Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Kastella District – Piraeus – Athens – Greece.

Now let’s head down the coast–along the Athens Riviera to see some alternative neighborhoods. Kastella is a pretty, considered upscale district near Piraeus port. It’s perched on a hill with a lot of the houses sporting neoclassical architecture.  There’s a quaint bowling green here and open air theatre that has performances in the summer months.

Mikrolimano Marina - Kastella Neighbourhood of Athens Riviera - LifeBeyondBorders
Mikrolimano Marina – Kastella Neighbourhood of Athens Riviera

Mikrolimano is the small marina that Kastella looks down upon.  Fishing nets, bobbing fishing boats and some more upscale yachts (if you’re lucky), plus a promenade lined with cafes and tavernas awaits you.

Fishing nets at Mikrolimano Marina - Kastella Neighbourhood of Athens Riviera - LifeBeyondBorders
Fishing nets at Mikrolimano Marina – Kastella Neighbourhood of Athens Riviera

It’s worth basing yourself in Kastella for a day or two before you take a ferry to the islands.   See my Luxury Athens Beach Hotels guide to help you in your planning of where to stay.

Guide to Athens neighborhoods – Conclusion

I’ve listed here some of the Central Athens neighborhoods.  Don’t forget–located approx. 45 minutes from the centre is the Athens Riviera, a stretch of coastline running from Piraeus port down as far as the southernmost tip at Cape Sounio, which certainly gives the French Riviera a run for its money.

Check out Vouliagmenis Lake–an alternative swimming spot along the Riviera in a natural fresh/sea water spa lake.

What’s your favourite Athens neighborhood?

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Guide to Athens neighborhoods - LifeBeyondBorders

Athens in the summer

Bex Hall
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9
Athens in the summer

As the temperatures rise and travel is back (as at the summer of 2022), I don’t blame anyone for wanting to head immediately to the Greek islands and flop on a beach.  But don’t overlook Athens as a summer stopover, or for a bit longer.

******Please note!  Athens and many places across Greece have reached record-breaking temperatures, including the Greek islands in the summer. You do need to take extra care when travelling at this time of year.  See my tips on how to stay cool in the Greek summer to help you enjoy your vacation time.******

Let’s look at why you shouldn’t overlook Athens as a summer destination stopover:

Athens is super quiet in August

It’s true. As you’ll probably know, Athens gets super hot in the summer with temperatures reaching up to 40C/104F so that means that yes, everyone heads to the islands or their villages across the mainland.  This includes the locals, meaning that you’ve got the city pretty much to yourself.

Visit the Acropolis–but go very early morning before the heat of the day.  It usually opens from about 8am so I would recommend going as early as that.  After 11am it’ll be too hot–until about 6pm but it closes about 7pm anyway.

NOTE: NEW RULES FOR VISITING THE ACROPOLIS

As of April 2024, there are new caps on entry numbers to the monument, mainly to curb over-tourism but also it’ll help to combat the crowds and people standing in ridiculous heat (there is no shade at the Acropolis).

  • From 8 to 9am, 3,000 people will be let into the complex.
  • From 9 to 10am, 2,000 people will be granted access, then numbers for the remainder of the day will vary.

Acropolis and Parthenon - LifeBeyondBorders
Copyright – Rebecca Hall

No lengthy waits for restaurants and tavernas

That’s right, there’ll be no lengthy queues/lines for popular places to eat ie: those with a view of the Acropolis or that unique street food that serves great falafel.

See my suggestions of Greek Dishes–Top Things to Eat in Athens

There’s great street art to be seen in Athens

Beyond the usual ancient sites, a burgeoning scene in this city is street art. There are many companies offering street art tours, one of my favourites is Awesome Athens Experiences.  They take you around the various Athens neighbourhoods and explain what each mural means and by which unique artist.
As with anything in Athens in the summer, start off in the morning as it’s much cooler, or after 6pm.  Wear a hat and sunglasses plus comfortable walking shoes, bring plenty of drinking water and high factor sunscreen.

Check out my video about a different side to Athens.

There are many things to see and do in Athens.  People generally think of it as a dirty city and want to escape immediately.  Please don’t. Give this eclectic metropolis a chance.

Vineyards around the Attica region of Athens - LifeBeyondBorders
Vineyards around the Attica region of Athens – Copyright Rebecca Hall

There’s so much to see around Athens Airport.  The summer is the best time

It’s true!  Perhaps rather unusually, Athens Airport is not an industrialised zone.  It’s surrounded by beautiful countryside with vineyards, Frankish Towers, fig and olive groves, wineries and not too far from the coast.

Frankish Tower - Mesogaia region of Attica - Athens Countryside. LifeBeyonBorders
Frankish Tower – Mesogaia region of Attica – Athens Countryside. – Copyright Rebecca Hall

There’s a lot to explore in this region of Athens.  Vouryia can handcraft your Beyond Athens experience and showcase this unique region with its abandoned railway heading down towards the coast and cute railway stations.  Be sure to spend time exploring what’s known as the Mesogaia region of Athens in the summer.

Athens Travel App

Download my Athens Travel App for Android and iPhone to help you plan your Athens summer stopover, or for any time of the year.  Click the image below:

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Athens’ Best – Android and iPhone Travel App. Travel Planning in the palm of your hand

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How To Visit Greece

Bex Hall
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0
How To Visit Greece

There are plenty of articles out there with specific information about different places in Greece; islands, mainland and how to travel to them, weather at different times of year, etc.  My site included.
I decided here to provide you with an easier overall how to visit Greece article, with tips and links to these longer articles to help you plan your vacation.

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My helpful travel app ‘Greece’s Best’ can help you plan your how to visit Greece trip–it has all you need in one quick downloadable app for Android or iPhone.  Click on the image above to get yours now.

How to Visit Greece–Airports

Greece has two main airports on the mainland; Athens International in the capital and Thessaloniki Airport Makedonia in the north of the country, the country’s second biggest city.

aegean airlines photo
Photo by Profilbesitzer

Athens has regular international and domestic flights to/from destinations in Europe, the middle and far east and North America plus domestic Greek mainland and island destinations.  Thessaloniki offers services to and from several European destinations on a scheduled and charter basis, plus to/from Balkan countries and, of course, domestic flights.

There are a choice of ways to get into the city from each airport:
By 24 hour Bus or Metro (until late) from Athens or 24 hour bus service from Thessaloniki.  Both have good taxi services, but you may want to download the Beat app onto your phone, also handy to have when you’re in the country.  It’s the UBER equivalent in Greece but uses only licensed taxis.

How To Visit Greece–Ports

There are several ports in Greece that serve many of the islands.  The main port of Piraeus in Athens serves many of the Cycladic, Dodecanese and nearby Saronic islands as well as Crete.

piraeus photo
Piraeus. Photo by –Jeffrey-


Rafina, the second largest port after Piraeus and only 6 miles from Athens Airport serves Heraklion in Crete, Santorini, Ios (in the Cycladic islands), Paros, Mykonos and the smaller islands of Tinos and Andros.
It’s quite a commercial place so best to come and take your ferry and not really hang around, although the row of tavernas lining the harbourside are good for a spot of traditional lunch/dinner before you head off.

My Insiders Tips for Taking Ferries in Greece provides you with a comprehensive breakdown of Greek ports and what to expect onboard including info about seating, cabins and wi-fi.

How To Visit Greece–Top Places To Visit

Mainland, Greek islands–there are so many beautiful places to visit in Greece, it’s hard to know where to start.  As well as the obvious Santorini and Mykonos, here are some of my favourite places to visit in Greece:

This is just a mere smattering of my favourite places here in Greece.  My Greece’s Best downloadable travel app, for Android and iPhone will give you many more choices.

How To Visit Greece–Daily Basics

These can range from a host of things to remember, from practical to cultural;

  • Don’t flush toilet paper down the toilet.  Place in the bin provided in the bathroom
  • Go beyond the famed moussaka.  There is a whole plethora of Greek food awaiting you
  • Public transport, especially the metro in Athens is cheap (currently €1.20 for a 90 minute ticket) and clean.  Beware of your belongings though, and maybe use a decoy wallet our purchase travel clothes with hidden pockets. Never place items in a back pocket
  • Stick shifts/manual are more the norm for hire cars, especially on islands. Automatics do exist, but reserve ahead of time if you need one/only have a license for one.

pickpocket photo
Photo by Ruth and Dave

These are just a few examples of many tips.  These articles will guide you in the right direction with more info:

How To Visit Greece–When To Visit

We all know that the summer months are a big favourite to visit Greece, especially the beaches and islands. Greece is considered a summer/beach destination.

  • Greek Easter (April/May) is the most celebrated holiday in the church calendar, even more so than Christmas so this is also a great time to visit the country to experience traditional customs. My article A local’s Guide to Greek Easter gives you the lowdown and dates for the next 10 years
  • From mountain breaks, skiing (yes, you can ski in Greece), Meltemi winds in July/August, sometimes earlier (hot, dry blowing from the north of the country across the Aegean and creating surf like waves) and Athens city breaks, there’s not really a wrong time to come to Greece.

My two travel apps will help you with how to visit Greece.  Welcome and opa!

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An Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands

Bex Hall
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21
An Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands

There’s no doubt about it: Santorini and Mykonos top the list of ‘Must See’ Greek islands to visit – also the most widely known; Santorini because of its blue domed churches and whitewashed buildings staggering up the caldera (volcano) and Mykonos because of its nightlife (although Mykonos is more than just a party island).

But there’s so much more to Greece’s islands than just the main ones.  Here I give you a run down of my Greek island guide. In it, I’ll hopefully tempt you away from the obvious islands and encourage you to explore the lesser known Greek islands – responsibly of course (especially when you read news of ‘Brits Misbehaving Abroad’ in package resorts areas of Crete).  I’ll aim to take you beyond this package holiday style holiday.

A Greek Island Insider's Guide by Life Beyond Borders. Go beyond the obvious islands
A Greek Island Insider’s Guide by Life Beyond Borders

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Greek island guide

The Dodecanese islands are a group of 15 larger, plus 150 smaller, uninhabited islands located in the South East Aegean sea – nearer the coast of Turkey.  26 of the islands in total are inhabited.  You can read more in depth about my favourite Dodecanese islands with links to specific articles.  Here though, I list a few of my absolute favourites (by no means all of them):

Greek island guide: Astypalea

Shaped like a butterfly and only 44 square miles in area (114 sq km), the lesser know island of Astypalea has more tourists than locals in the summer months!

See more of Astypalea and the Greek islands by following my Instagram account.

Where to stay: I stayed at the Astypalea Palace Hotel which offered nine gorgeous rooms, one of them with VIP private pool.  There are other gorgeous hotel choices in Astypalea, ranging from small boutique hotels to self-catering.  Because the island’s so small, most have sea views and views of the castle up in the Hora.

What to do: Astypalea has a range of gorgeous beaches to relax in such as Livadi – located over the hill from the main harbour.
You’ll also want to take a walk up to the kastro (castle) in the Hora, sitting atop the main town and keeping a watchful eye over the island.  It’s small cobbled lanes are great for meandering around and getting lost.

Good for: A real ‘get away from it all’ type of holiday as there are no package holiday hotels here.  There’s a tiny airport taking small propeller aircraft (from Athens).  Excellent for the real Greek experience.

Greek island guide: Rhodes – the Old Town

Famous for beaches and nightlife, I have to say that my favourite part of Rhodes, however, is the Old Town.  Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988, it’s a city within castle walls and is one of the rare ‘living castles’ in Europe – a living piece of history, if you will. My Rhodes Experience is one I would recommend to everyone.

Good for: Stumbling along cobbled streets in the daytime and night.  Very ‘Games of Thrones’ esque. Getting lost in time.

Where to stay: Rhodes Old Town has a number of boutique hotel options as well as quainter studios.  My favourites are: St. George’s Studios, Zacosta Villa Hotel and for real luxury and that Game of Thrones feeling of sleeping in a castle, look at treating yourself to Kokkini Porta Rossa an old knight’s house right in the Old Town castle walls.

What to do: Wander the streets of the Old Town, visit the Palace of the Grand Masters, hire a car and drive out the the coast.  See more things to do in Rhodes.

An Insider's Guide to the Greek Islands - Rhodes Old Town - LifeBeyondBorders
An Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands – Rhodes Old Town

Greek island guide: Symi

A short ferry ride from Rhodes, and originally an economy built on shipbuilding and sponge diving, Symi is a stunning Venetian style Greek island, with houses seemingly spilling down from the Hora at the top of the hill into the harbour. It’s permanent population is roughly 2,500 people and the island significantly increases in the summer months.

Good for: No airport and once again, no package hotel tourism makes Symi an attractive, traditional island.

Where to stay: The Symi Thea Hotel in the harbour is a lovely family run establishment in a Neoclassical building, done up to house 5 individual suites and with traditional furnishings, tiled floors and marble bathrooms.  I wrote about my experience in the Symi Thea Hotel here.

What to do: You can explore the harbour and sit nursing a coffee/frappe and watch the yachts mooring, or walk up the many, many steps of the Kali Strata to the Hora at the top of the island (or better still, thumb a lift up and walk back down).
Or explore the hidden coves such as Pedi beach.

More things to see and do in Symi.

An Insider's Guide to the Greek Islands - Symi - LifeBeyondBorders
An Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands – Symi – LifeBeyondBorders

Of course, there are hundreds more Greek islands to visit that can be considered off the tourist trail.  Islands such as Sifnos, Serifos, Alonissos, Karpathos and the non motor vehicle island of Hydra, the Greek island with a difference, and even the more obviously touristy Greek islands such as Zakynthos can still have their appeal.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my round up of a Greek island guide and have tempted you off the tourist trail.

Spending time in the capital? Then read my Insiders Guide to visiting Athens and to get to the islands, my Insider Tips for Taking Ferries in Greece.  All great advice.

How any Greek islands have you been to?

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Come and take a look at the Greek Islands - discover some you may have never have heard of! By LifeBeyondBorders
Come and take a look at the Greek Islands – discover some you may have never have heard of!
By LifeBeyondBorders

Greek island all round packing list

Bex Hall
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24
Greek island all round packing list

**For a free downloadable PDF version of this post, click here.**

Many people head to the Greek islands in the height of summer, when temperatures can hit up to 33 C (91 F) or, in recent years, even as high as 41 C (106 F).  Take a look at my Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands to see my recommended places to stay. It’s pretty easy to imagine what your Greek island packing guide should consist of during the summer then.

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**Clicking on the clothes images will take you to the Amazon page to see more info and hopefully purchase.  If you choose to, I will earn some commission at no extra cost to you**

Greek island packing guide: summer

I love these women’s Columbia travel shorts as they come in different colours, plus have side and a back pockets to place your belongings in.  And most importantly, they adapt to the temperature and have UVA/UVB protection.

 

T-shirts, or Tunic. This particular tunic (various colours available) is great for travelling, worn over leggings or even as a dress.
This Clever Travel Companion t-shirt in grey, white, black or pink is a great design as it has hidden pockets: excellent for hiding your passport, valuables and keys. Clever Travel Companion also offers other travel accessories and clothing with hidden pockets.  These are definitely items that should be included in your Greek island packing guide.

Click on the images to head to the Amazon page to see more.


Flip flops – I personally love the Teva women’s brand: very comfortable for the beach, bumming around and yet also longer walks up those steep and along those uneven, cobbled lanes that the Greek islands are famous for, essential for your Greek Island packing guide.

Several Swim suits – I like tankinis myself – and I say ‘several’ because as a good Greek will know: there’s nothing worse than drying yourself in a wet swimsuit; best to change out of one and put another one on. All Greeks go to the beach with at least one change of swimwear.


All round dress for day and evening wear.  Again, great for dressing up or down when you visit a Greek island.

And don’t forget: lashings of suntan cream!

Don’t dismiss travelling to the Greek islands in the autumn/fall.  September/October time, even up to November, can be the best time of year to visit, with temperatures ranging from a pleasant 21 C (70 F) up to around 29 C (84 F – this in September time). And with some islands easily connected by flight, either from a European hub or via Athens, or ferry connections from Athens, the Greek islands make for a great autumn/fall European destination break.

The small fishing village of Finiki on #Karpathos island, #Greece. @roughguides @travwriters @femaletravelbloggers

A post shared by Rebecca – Travel Writer (@beyondbex) on

Follow me on Instagram for more tempting Greek island scenes.

Greek island packing guide: autumn/fall

But what should you pack in your suitcase?  We’ve an idea of temperatures now, and you may still think it sounds very hot and just your sundresses will suffice.  Not so.  Let’s take a look.

We’ve explored some of the best dresses, footwear, etc and these will still apply in the autumn/fall – but don’t forget to still pack a good pair of sunglasses.  The sun and light in Greece is of a particular strength and quality, hence why it’s a photographer’s haven…but it also means you’ll need to protect your eyes with some polarised UV glasses.

Given the temperatures experienced and the fact it can get a little chilly in the evenings, here is my recommended packing list for autumn in the Greek islands:

Face and body SPF 30 suntan cream.

Capri pantsCapri Pants are the best.  Casual for daytime wear, but dress them up at night with heels if you wish.

 

Instead of jeans – as it’s still a little warm for these, the Coolibar UPF 50+ Women’s Weekend Pants are great for travel to warm countries: fashionable, comfortable and also with UPF protection.

Light drape cardigan. I love this particular one as it comes in such a range of colours, and can be worn over t-shirts or swimwear, evening wear or jeans.  And it’s perfect for covering your shoulders when you’re wanting to go inside a church.

Other Greek island packing items to consider

(Almost) everyone has wheelie bags nowadays, and packing cubes (for me, at least) have also become a must.  They’re great for splitting your clothes up and packing in a clearer way (as opposed to when I used to throw everything in!  Now I have one for underwear, one for t-shirts, one for daywear, evening wear, etc).  And remember to roll your clothes.

Your Greek island packing list should also include essentials such as:

Travel adaptor. This particular one is great as it’s a worldwide adaptor and even comes with dual USB charging ports.  Saves you having to travel with a separate USB charger for your phone, Kindle, etc.

 

 

 

Don’t forget your phone! I use my iPhone 6S for taking photos and many phones have good cameras these days.  This particular model here is unlocked (and re-furbished), which is great because if you’re spending any length of time in Greece (or anywhere), rather than use the contract from my home country, I can just use a Pay as You Go SIM card, available from all good mobile providers in the country, even as you exit many metro stations in the capital city, Athens; there are people providing SIM cards.

I don’t know where I’d be without my Portable Charger.

This particular brand is great as it’s light (30% the weight of am ordinary lithium battery), fits in a travel or handbag, has two USB ports and also a torch.  Great for my iPhone and Kindle.

Don’t forget your environmentally friendly mosquito repellent, regardless of the time of year!  Those midges are a pain.  I particularly love this one, infused with essential oils such as lemon and eucalyptus.

It’s doubtful you’ll want to travel with lots of toiletries to be honest.  LUSH offer a great range of travel products, like this solid hair and shampoo bar, a great size for travelling. They also offer ‘toothy tabs’: chewable toothpaste tabs and dry hair shampoo: a powder you can ruffle through your hair to make it smell nice in between washes.


As you stroll the streets of a cobbled Medieval Old Town, such as in Rhodes, or relax on the beach, you’ll need a place to put all your belongings like towels, swimwear and bottles of water.  This Foldaway Backpack is perfect for this as it can hold a lot, and yet when you’ve finished, also pack up very nicely and stuff in your big luggage.

Lastly, if I may be permitted to self promote, you’re going to need a guidebook when here – especially if you’re the ‘old fashioned’ type like me and like to write notes inside when you discover places.   The Rough Guide to The Greek Islands makes essential reading for your Greek island packing guide.

And on the subject of reading, why not treat yourself to a Greek read?
My debut novel Girl Gone Geek is the perfect novel to take with you on a Greek island holiday (even if I do say so myself).  Available in Kindle or Paperback format.

Have I missed anything out of my Greek islands packing list?  I know there is a lot more to consider, but I wanted to include essential items for you.  Feel free to share your ideas too in the Comments.

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What to pack for a vacation to the Greek islands in summer and fall
Packing list – Greek Islands

A Greek island packing list for your summer of autumn/fall vacation
What to pack when going on holiday to Greece

A local’s guide to Greek Easter on the Greek Islands

Bex Hall
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0
A local’s guide to Greek Easter on the Greek Islands

Greek Easter is the biggest celebration in the Greek Orthodox faith, bigger than Christmas.  It’s a time for hope, when Christ is risen and is celebrated across the country, with some islands and regions having their own distinct style.

Whilst the Greek islands are the perfect place to be during summer, I’d recommend choosing an island to celebrate Greek Easter–or Pascha as it’s called–to experience this distinct style.  So let’s have a look at Greek Easter on the Greek Islands to help you choose where to go.

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Download for your iPhone or Android my Greece’s Best Travel App to help with your Greece holiday planning. Click on the image

Greek Easter Traditions in general

The traditions of Greek Easter have been celebrated for over 2000 years.   It starts with a period of fasting–40 days before the Greek Easter Sunday on what’s known as Clean Monday.  Note that Greek Easter doesn’t always fall on the same dates as Catholic Easter as Greeks follow the Orthodox faith/calendar.

To help you plan for your next Greek Easter island visit, here is a list of Greek Easter dates up until 2029:

– 2023: Sunday, April 16
– 2024: Sunday, May 5
– 2025: Sunday, April 20 (coincides with Catholic Easter)
– 2026: Sunday, April 12
– 2027: Sunday, May 2
– 2028: Sunday, April 16
– 2029: Sunday, April 6
– 2030: Sunday, April 28

On Clean Monday–7 weeks before Easter Sunday–people take kites to the beach or the countryside and fly them with their families, symbolising the release and freeing of the body from sin.  Tradition tells us that the higher the kite flies, the more likely it is that God will hear their prayers for forgiveness.

Clean Monday is also the day when Greeks/firm believers will stop eating meat and dairy and a meal of seafood such as octopus, fish roe such as taramasalata and salads is eaten.  This is observed throughout the 40 days until Easter Sunday.

Where ever you go for Greek Easter, Red Eggs are broken at midnight on Easter Saturday or during the huge feasts on Easter Sunday.
Red Eggs are hard boiled eggs dyed red and is known in Greek as tsougrisma.  It symbolises the breaking open of Jesus’ tomb and his resurrection.
It’s played between two players: one holds his/her egg, the other lightly taps the top against the other’s.  If you crack the end of your opponent’s egg, you’ll have good luck throughout the rest of the year.

We then come to the actual four days of Easter itself.  As mentioned, Greek Easter is celebrated in different ways depending on where you go to in Greece, so let’s look at how Greek Easter is celebrated on some of the Greek Islands.

Greek Easter – Corfu

Corfu is a popular Greek island for holidaymakers globally.   Many come to relax on the many beaches and enjoy the eclectic nightlife.  With an airport that takes both flights from within Greece and European destinations, it’s easily accessible–also by ferry from the mainland.

greek easter corfu photo
Photo by Μanu

Holy Week starts on Palm Sunday, the week before Greek Easter and on Palm Sunday, a procession takes place known as the Holy Shrine of St. Spyridon, the saint who rid the island of the Plague in 1629.  This procession is in his memory where all 18 of the Philharmonic Bands of Corfu take part.

On Good Friday, Christ’s descent from the cross is highlighted.  All churches have their own processions from the afternoon into the evening where the cross is paraded through the streets with the faithful following behind, culminating in the meeting point of the Old Town in Corfu.
Tip: If you feel too exhausted to follow this all day, just come at 10pm to Corfu Cathedral where the most impressive Epitaph makes its appearance, followed by mournful music played by the three main Philharmonic Bands.

Easter Saturday has another procession of the relics of Saint Spyridon through the streets of the Old Town and at 11am, bells will ring to indicate the resurrection.  This is when things become very interesting as in the Old Town, red pot throwing is the norm!  Locals throw massive botides–red clay pots–filled with water and laurel from their windows where they crash on the road.  It’s said that in combination with the water and laurel,  evil is supposed to be chased away.
Tip: Get there early!  Everyone loves seeing this event–and don’t worry, you don’t literally walk under the balconies, they’re cordoned off and police make sure people don’t cross the line to risk getting hurt–or worse!  Although I often wonder if this event wouldn’t be banned in countries like the U.S. or U.K. under Health and Safety!  This is why I love Greece.

Sunday is the time for another Procession of the Resurrection and the breaking of the fast.  Whole lamb is roasted on the spit and people gather at each other’s houses or tavernas to eat to their heart’s content.
Tip: Not for the faint hearted or vegetarians.  Of course, you can eat just the delicious salads, but whole lambs turning on the spit are a site to be seen everywhere on Greek Easter Sunday.

One thing’s for sure–Corfu is THE Greek island to celebrate Greek Easter.

Greek Easter – Santorini

Everybody loves the volcanic island of Santorini. It’s one of Greece’s most popular islands, if. not THE most.  This is due to its unique volcanic structure and small whitewashed villages set atop the volcanic landscape, plus the black or red sandy beaches.
With its ‘international’ airport that accepts flights from around Greece and Europe–sometimes further afield such as some Middle East destinations and good ferry connections from Athens, this fairy tale island is easily accessible.

greek easter santorini photo
Photo by Klearchos Kapoutsis

During Greek Easter, Santorini comes alive.  As seen above for Corfu, the structure of the weekend remains much the same, as it does throughout Greece ie: Processions and the eating of mageiritsa soup on Easter Saturday at midnight–made of all the ‘innards’ of the lamb that’s roasted for Sunday so as not to waste any of the animal (be warned!).

The village of Pyrgos on Santorini is said to have the most impressive celebration. During the procession of the Epitaph through the streets, thousands of cans are scattered and lit around the rooftops and fields of the area, including up to and around the castle.  It makes for a beautiful night procession and is even recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records as being THE most beautiful Good Friday procession.

Food that is traditional in Santorini over Easter include Tsourekia–a type of brioche and melitinia–sweet pastries with cheese.

Greek Easter – Crete

Crete is another favourite destination for visitors to Greece and one island that should certainly be visited over Greek Easter.
The capital of the island is Heraklion and on Easter Monday, many Cretans ‘celebrate their dead‘ and carry food and drink to the graves–which have been cleaned and spruced up for the occasion–of their relatives and picnic there.
It’s a way to honour the dead and celebrate Christ’s resurrection.

Greek Easter – Chios

The fifth largest of the Greek islands, Chios is known for exporting its mastic that comes from the evergreen tree of the same name.  Mastic products include gum and various face and body creams.
Chios is also thought to be the birthplace of Homer, the ancient Greek author and poet who wrote the Iliad.

Whilst famous for its mastic, it’s the 200 year old tradition of the Rocket Wars in the village of Vrontados at midnight on Easter Saturday that many remember Chios for.

So what happens? Well, two ‘enemy’ parish churches of Saint Mark and Panagia Erythiani–’Red Madonna’, both built on two hilltops about 400 meters from each other  spend the evening firing thousands of homemade rockets at each other’s church—the more pious attending a service inside.

The objective is to hit the bell tower of each opposing church with the rockets made of wooden sticks loaded with an explosive mixture of gunpowder and launched from grooved platforms.
Does it sound dangerous?  Yes! But the churches and nearby buildings are boarded up especially for the occasions and actually, it brings a lot of tourism revenue as many people come to experience this unique event.

Greek Easter traditions on other Greek islands

On several Greek islands such as Symi, Hydra, Astypalea and around the mainland, an effigy of Judas is stuffed with straw and explosives and set alight on Easter Sunday.

See the video here.  It’s pretty impressive and indicates that forgiveness for his betrayal isn’t obtained easily.

See A Girl and Her Passport’s experience of Greek Easter on Tinos

Greek Easter on Greek islands–Conclusion

You don’t need to be religious to enjoy Greece during Easter.  As you’ve seen, there’s so much culture and fun to be had. Where ever you chose to spend Greek Easter, as you can see there is a variety of choice and experiences to be had. Enjoy your Greek Island Easter experience.

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An Insider's Guide to Greek Easter

Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – a guide

Bex Hall
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Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – a guide

Athens, Greece is predominantly a city break destination. In my Insiders Guide to Visiting Athens article, I give you ideas as to what to do on your city break.  However, Athens is also a great place to vacation if you want to be by the sea too as about a 30 to 45 minute taxi ride from the centre, you come to the Athens Riviera – synonymous with the rich and famous from way back in the 1960’s.

**Note: I was a guest at the hotels mentioned but all reflections are my own**

My Complete Guide to the Athens Riviera for TripSavvy gives you more ideas of what to see and do there, but it’s also a good, alternative place to base yourself along the Athens Riviera too.  So let me give you some ideas of where to stay during your Luxury Athens Beach break – proving you don’t need to head to an island to enjoy island life.

  • Stuck to know what to pack for your Greece vacation? My Greek island all round packing list will help you. It’s for any Greek destination; island or mainland and covers year round weather.
  • If you’re looking to stay in the actual city centre, the small boutique Inn Athens Hotel is ideal

Where To Stay Along The Athenian Riviera, some history

1960’s

Vouliagmeni and Glyfada are the names people associate the Riviera with.  It didn’t start to develop as an area, and then a destination in itself until the 1960’s when Glyfada and Vouliagmeni started to improve their facilities and infrastructure; tavernas, nightclubs, restaurants, casinos to boost the nation’s burgeoning tourism industry – also a project to help lift the locals out of post war blues and provide them with somewhere special to spend their weekends.

It also started to catch the eye of international celebrities such as Frank Sinatra and the Beatles.

1980’s and 1990’s

By this time, Vouliagmeni and its surrounds had established itself as one of THE luxury destinations, attracting A-Listers, HNW’s and Politicians alike (think Thatcher, Gorbachov, Paul Newman and Joan Collins – though I highly doubt at the same time!). More and more hotels were springing up, yet it wasn’t until the…

2004 Olympics

THIS is when the Riviera really made leaps and bounds.  Beach facilities and nightspots were renovated from their 60’s days to facilitate the high demands of the clientele, and place Athens in the spotlight as a destination, not least because of the Olympic Games, and continues to expand to this day.

Beaches, leisure and culture – the Athens Riviera has it all and being a mere 30-45 minute cab ride away from the centre, making it the perfect place to base oneself when in this city.

Where to Stay Along The Athens Riviera – the guide

As you can imagine, given the area’s luxury reputation, all hotels along the Athens Riviera are of a luxury standard, albeit different stages of luxury.

Where to stay along the Athens Riviera - Athens Beach Hotels - LifeBeyondBorders
Where to stay along the Athens Riviera – Athens Beach Hotels

Luxury Athens Beach Hotel – Four Season Astir Palace

We’ll start with the most ostentatious and, in my opinion, the one to really treat yourself to if you have the finances.

Four Seasons Astir Palace – with two hotel buildings, Nafsika and Arion and bungalows -only opened in March 2019, so it’s less than a year old.  Its location on the Vougliagmeni Peninsular, sprawling over 74 acres (30 hectares) of pine forests with sea views across the Saronic Gulf make it a breathtaking base.

But it’s been around since WAAAAY before then. It’s always been an Athens beach hotel since its inception in the late 50’s and known simply as Astir Vouliagmeni.
It increased in size gradually over time, hosting a bevy of famous people – the last known guests as the Astir Vouliagmeni being President Obama and Vladimir Putin (no – NOT at the same time!)

Facilities at the Four Seasons Resort – Athens Beach hotel

Rooms

With a starting price of €304 (Euros) a night in low season (January) for a sea view room in Nafsika building (inc. breakfast) – you can see it’s one to treat yourself.
Room sizes are excellent, at 44 sq meters and up and roll top baths with separate monsoon shower cubicles too.

    • 200 Rooms
    • 42 Suites
    • 61 private bungalows

Spa

The spa offers a variety of treatments and there’s a hairdressers, plus indoor pool – not to mention the spa bar and 2 fitness rooms.

Dining

The Four Seasons Astir Palace – Athens Beach Hotel (more a resort) has a variety of dining options:

  • Mercato – Italian cuisine
  • Helios – Latin American food
  • Pelagos – Greek seafood
  • Taverna 37 – Traditional Greek fair
  • Avra Lounge – You can get snacks here all day, plus their signature cocktails

All restaurants look out over the stunning Aegean sea, lending that Greek island feel and sunset views.

Things to do at the Four Seasons Astir Palace – Luxury Athens Beach Hotels

  • 3 private beaches
  • salt water swimming pool
  • Tennis courts
  • Basketball court
  • Children’s club
  • Water sports such as paddle boarding
  • Jogging or walking trails around the surrounding area

You can also have trips arranged by boat to the nearby Saronic islands and to Cape Sournion just around the headland – a MUST visit.

You’ll see from my description of the Four Seasons Athens Beach Hotel that it’s more of a resort – one you won’t want to tear yourself away from.

Opinion: I like this because although it’s a chain, it’s not corporate in feel.  The staff genuinely seem to take an interest in you and whilst I’m sure it’s down to excellent training – there feels more to it than just that.  I think it’s the Greek ‘filotimo’ coming through – that genuine love of strangers and interest in them.

Even so, I am glad I was treated here because this is one hotel to really treat yourself to!

Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – The Athenian Riviera Hotel

Athenian Riviera Hotel - Images © Athenian Riviera Hotel - LifeBeyondBorders
Athenian Riviera Hotel – Images © Athenian Riviera Hotel – LifeBeyondBorders

Built in 1979 and completely renovated in 2017, this wonderful 47 mixture of rooms and suites boutique property is a much more affordable option if you’re wanting to be located along the Riviera.  It’s calming, stylish and a 5 minute walk from the public Vouliagmeni Beach (€5 entry fee) and as the area as a whole is conservation protected, you’re surrounded by pine clad forests too, with all rooms therefore offering lovely views.

Rooms

Starting price of €67.50 for a Classic Double / Twin room (Low Season – January) and €115 for the Junior Suite (same time period) the Athenian Riviera Hotel has regular offers, so check their website.
Room sizes range from a cozy 28 sq meters to 37 sq meters (suite) – so there’s something for everyone.

Things to do

Beach nearby, there’s a small swimming pool in use in the summer months and it also attracts Greek city dwellers who just want to come to the coast for the weekend. It’s a great cozy addition to the area.  And be sure to check out the unique Vouliagmeni Lake.  Read more to see why this shouldn’t be missed

Dining

One small restaurant on site with a la carte food.  My favourite is the Mushroom Risotto and parmesan flakes!

Opinion: I loved the Athenian Riviera Hotel.  It’s cozy and warm, both in temperature and atmosphere and the fact it’s open all year makes me feel like I can have an affordable break on the coast when I want to.

Athenian Riviera Hotel - Images © Athenian Riviera Hotel - LifeBeyondBorders
Athenian Riviera Hotel – Images © Athenian Riviera Hotel – LifeBeyondBorders

Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – The Margi Hotel

One of my favourite smaller Athens beach hotels, the Margi is walking distance to the beach and a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

With a total of 89 rooms and range of suites, the starting price here is €173.

Margi Facilities

  • Large Outdoor pool
  • Spa offering massage with indoor pool
  • Selection of dining
  • Lovely fireplace in Reception (yes, Greece does get chilly in the winter)
  • Concierge service (as with most upscale hotels)

The Margi Farm

One of my favourite things about The Margi is that their produce for breakfast, etc mostly comes from their farm.  Located out in the countryside along the Riviera, you can visit it (by prior arrangement) and see the vast array of produce growing; vegetables, herbs and meet their many goats and their rescue donkey.

 

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I love a good #goat image! This at @themargifarm about half an hour from the Athens Riviera (not far from #athensinternationalairport) It’s part of @themargihotel and has goats ? chickens ? some ducks ? and lots of freshly grown vegetables ? herbs ? and eggs ? from the hens. The goats create cheese and milk – and occasionally the meat too (I covered their ears when we chatted about that). They hold events such as weddings ?, baptisms and even meals for just one right up to groups or corporate parties. I loved my afternoon there. Scroll left to see this gorgeous place. – #themargihotel #travelbinderfollow19 #athensriviera? #themargifarm #bgtw #lifebeyondborders #lifeofatravelwriter #lifeofatravelblogger #instagramfarm #farmsofinstagram #visitathensriviera #visitathens #visitgreece?? #supportlocal #ilovefarmlife

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It’s a wonderful place to have a fresh meal and Greeks also used it for wedding and baptism celebrations.  Be sure to book a visit when you stay at The Margi.

Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – Hotel Alex

Situated in a handy location if you’re catching a ferry to the islands–near Piraeus in the unique neighbourhood of Kastella, the Hotel Alex is part of the Santikos Collection of hotels that also have properties on islands such as Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos (the Sporades chain of islands) and a Mansion in the beautiful Pelion region of the mainland–opposite the aforementioned islands where unique traditional villages, hiking routes and excellent food awaits you.

Alex Hotel Exterior - LifeBeyondBorders
Alex Hotel Exterior – LifeBeyondBorders

The Alex Hotel has a combined total of 34 comfortable rooms and suites and is perfect to stay and explore the cute Mikrolimano marina–teeming with locals drinking their coffees and eating throughout the day in the many choices of coffee shops and tavernas along the promenade.

The focal point of The Alex is its rooftop bar and restaurant–The Nest which offers exquisite views across the sea and Marina in one direction and farther away, the centre of Athens with even the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill visible.

The Nest Rooftop Bar and Restaurant - Alex Hotel - Athens Riviera - LifeBeyondBorders
The Nest Rooftop Bar and Restaurant – Alex Hotel – Athens Riviera

There’s a whole host of food and dessert choices–all absolutely delicious, leaving you spoilt for choice.

Selection of Dishes at The Nest - Alex Hotel - Kastella - Athens Riviera - LifeBeyondBorders
Selection of Dishes at The Nest – Alex Hotel – Kastella Neighbourhood – Athens Riviera

Where To Stay Along The Athens Riviera – Conclusion

I hope you’ve enjoyed my post about where to stay along the Athens Riviera. As you’ve seen, it’s a very exclusive area with a good choice of places to stay, and at only half and hour (by car or taxi) from the centre, it’s worth basing yourself here when you come to enjoy your Athens Citybreak.

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Athens Riviera - Beach Hotels in Athens -Where to Stay - LifeBeyondBorders
Athens Riviera – Beach Hotels in Athens -Where to Stay

A week in the life of a Medivac pilot

Bex Hall
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0
A week in the life of a Medivac pilot

Due to my knowledge of Greece and the beauty of this country, recently I’ve had the fortune to be contacted on Twitter by a unique individual–a ‘Medivac’ pilot who goes by the handle of @CptMarius.

Naturally curious as to why a Medivac pilot wanted to get in touch, and admittedly not knowing much about their work–I decided to delve deeper and have been honoured to be granted an inside look into their work, hence I present to you a Week in the Life of a Medivac pilot.

Background of Captain Marius, the Medivac Pilot

Captain Marius flies for Air Med who, according to their website–“…has pioneered the air ambulance and air medical transport industry for over three decades.” Source.

In case you’re unsure what Air Med actually does (because I certainly wasn’t sure)–then take a look at the Services they offer. They range from Medical Repatriation to Long Distance Medical Escort Services.

For example, when you purchase travel insurance or your life insurance policy covers urgent medical transport. In cases where traveling back to your home country via airline is not possible, Air Med International is often hired to undertake these for insurance companies; Medical organizations and Government state departments.

Crossing the Atlantic from cockpit - Week in the life of a Medivac pilot - LifeBeyondBorders
Crossing the Atlantic from cockpit – Week in the life of a Medivac pilot – Image © Marius Liebenberg

It turns out that Captain Marius frequently flies via various points in Greece as geographically the country is an excellent re-fuelling base. This allows for some down time for himself and the crew–igniting their wish to explore what they can when here. So yes, I was delighted to be sought out to recommend some of my favourite places.

Let’s delve deeper into a Week in the Life of a Medivac Pilot, and why Greece is a favourite.

How long have you been a pilot for Air Med, Captain?

3 Years

What’s a brief on your career before?

I was the owner of an Airfreight business and Aircraft Management company, which I sold. I was too young to retire completely, so was offered a position as the Director of Corporate Aviation for an Airline with several government contracts.

I found myself drawn to the work I was doing on the government contract side and flew for the United States government in various capacities before retiring and joining Air Med International.

So where’s your base?

Birmingham, Alabama.  (For those who are unfamiliar with the U.S, Alabama is in the south).

What about crew on board a typical Medivac flight?

Normally there’ll be two flight crews with two or three medical crew members with various specialties.

So I’m intrigued: what would a typical week’s flying route/flight plan look like?

We work an 8 days on, 6 days off schedule.

For example, my last trip we flew from Birmingham, Alabama, U.S to Gander, Canada.
This took approximately 4 hrs where we had a brief fuel stop, then on to Shannon, Ireland across the Atlantic which took about 3hrs 30 minutes.

Exploring Limerick, Ireland during a stop over. Week in the life of a Medivac Pilot - LifeBeyondBorders
Exploring Limerick, Ireland during a stop over. © Marius Liebenberg

In Ireland we spent about 22 Hrs in the town of Limerick–just enough time to get some rest and have a nice dinner, then we headed off to Heraklion in Crete, Greece,  a 4hrs 20 mins flight.
Once there we had enough time to explore and sight see for about 26 hrs. It’s lovely to sample the local food, the local sights such as the Minoan Palace of Knossos.

We then headed off to Lebanon to pick up a patient and immediately leave. From there we flew thru the Netherlands for another fuel stop, then on to Iceland.

Landing in Iceland - Week in the life of a Medivac Pilot - Life Beyond Borders - © Marius Liebenberg
Landing in Iceland – Week in the life of a Medivac Pilot – © Marius Liebenberg

The Lebanon-Netherlands–Iceland took a total of 9 hrs.
In Iceland we handed the plane off to a relief crew and we spent a couple of days exploring the country before we headed home.

Very busy and varied!  What about the types of passengers you are repatriating?

Children & Adults of all ages. US Citizens and foreign nationals from all walks of life. Mostly for medical care and some we take home to live out their final days with the people they love in their home countries.

And what about your longest route?

The USA to Australia.

Do your Layovers give you enough time to explore?

Yes. We normally have 22 to 28 hours at a time. Sometimes more and sometimes less.  But enough time to get a relatively in depth feel for the country we’re in and go beyond the mere tourist hotspots. There’s usually a ground staff member / agent who takes care of us and besides our accommodation, can arrange interesting things to see and do.
And, of course, social media such as Twitter is great because I discover people such as yourself, Rebecca, who can offer insights into the country they’re in!

Ahh – you are a flatterer, I can see! So, besides Greece (obviously), what other destinations do you love?

South America, for the most part the weather is always warm the food incredible and the people are always friendly and eager to help with any excursions.
What I enjoy most is all the different and interesting cultures we encounter on that continent, from people that know very little about the out side world to extreme  sophistication.

Have you ever been tempted to vacation in a destination after you’ve had the brief opportunity to explore it – or are you just too tired of travel, so when on vacation you stay home?

I’m never too tired to travel! My favourites, besides Greece are: Iceland, Montevideo Uruguay, Ascension Island and the Exuma Islands in the Bahamas.

Thank you for your time Captain Marius.

I hope this article has been interesting for you, my readers, and given you an insight into the week in the life of a Medivac pilot.  It’s certainly opened my eyes.

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A Week in the Life of a Medivac Pilot - LifeBeyondBorders

Fun work ideas to go green – sustainable travel writing with Sprout pencils

Bex Hall
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0
Fun work ideas to go green – sustainable travel writing with Sprout pencils

As a travel writer and author, I am increasingly aware of how important it is to practice sustainability and try to be an eco friendly traveller, however small. 

To this end, imagine my pleasure when I discovered another opportunity and step towards zero plastic through a fun eco friendly idea – the use of an eco friendly pencil; Sprout Pencils–a fun work idea to go green.

How can I be eco friendly in my writing?

How can Sprout Pencils help us be eco-friendly and to go green?  Well, in short the Sprout pencil is 100% natural and non-toxic. It’s made of certified wood sourced from responsibly managed forests, graphite, clay and non-GMO seeds.

Seeds?  Yes, you read that correctly. This is where the eco friendly idea comes from.  At the end of each Sprout pencil there is a green capsule made of plant based cellulose.  Contained within are non-GMO seeds and the concept is, once your pencil becomes too short to continue writing, instead of throwing it out, you can plant it, either inside or out, making it a go green idea for your writing.

Sproutworld flowers from Eyeliner - LifeBeyondBorders
Sproutworld flowers from Eyeliner

What seeds?

There’s a range of choice; from plants and flowers such as carnation and chia to herbs such as coriander, sage or thyme.  You can even plant your own spruce tree seeds and watch it develop!
If you’re too excited to wait to see the results of your eco friendly practice, then the Sprout website recommends ordering basil as it germinates within only 5-10 days.

There’s a choice of sizes; a pack of 5, 8 and 32 pencils with a choice of seeds–and if you’re a medium to larger business, you can order from 500 upwards.  They make great ideas to use within the workplace, plus larger orders can have the pencils personalised.  So why not make an alternative business card and print your website on it?

There’s a minimum order of 10 for a personalised pencil, and you have only one seed choice, not a mixture.

Daily eco friendly routine

I’ve always used the old pen and paper to make notes – not relying on my mobile phone (what if it gets stolen?).  I also keep a pen and paper beside my bed at night so invariably, when I wake up with ideas in the middle of the night I can jot them down. 
Now I do so with my Sprout pencil, the current one I am hurrying to use is carnation.  I feel it’s helping me to be eco-friendly and I can’t wait to plant it at the end of its life cycle. 

Other Sprout products

Sprout have also designed eyebrow and eyeliner pencils, the world’s first patented such product (only available in the EU).  The little seeds in the tip are wildflowers, so once again I can’t wait to finish it off to plant.

Whether you’re after a fun gift for the kids and want to encourage environmentally friendly practices in the home and school (Sprout also have coloured pencils), workplace or are a writer like me and like the feeling of giving back somehow, Sprout is a unique go green way to give back to our world, and the bees.

Order your Sprout products here (small commission to me at no charge to you).

                       

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Free Things To Do In Athens, Greece

Bex Hall
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0
Free Things To Do In Athens, Greece

You don’t have to spend a fortune in order to enjoy yourself in this Greek capital city. There are a number of activities you can do for free, including:

And I’ve written a post about Fun Things to Do in Athens, Greece but the recommendations there aren’t necessarily free.

So here I share with you a list of more free things to do in Athens.

Free Things to Do in Athens – Stroll around Parliament Gardens

parliament gardens athens photo
Photo by Weekend Wayfarers

15.5 hectares of parkland and palm clad avenues in the centre of Athens. Located behind the Parliament building in Syntagma Square, the Parliament Gardens offers a peaceful, green respite from the concrete jungle. You can find a small zoo, a children’s library, a duck pond and a café.   Sit and enjoy a book in the shade or watch Athenian life go by.

Free Things to Do in Athens –  The Rock of Areopagos

Rock of Areopagos photo
Photo by Kim Bach

Situated below the Acropolis, it’s a bit of a hike but once reached, well worth it. Be astounded at the surrounding view of Plaka, Monastiraki and most of Athens, as far as the coast at Piraeus and the island of Evia.   Best viewed with a partner at sunset – take a bottle of red wine.

Beware: wear non slip shoes…the steps up are made of marble, hence very slippery

Free Things to do in Athens –  Plaka Flea Market & The Plaka Stairs

Take a wander down to Plaka, the city’s oldest neighbourhood, on a Sunday and stroll around the flea market. You’ll find a whole host of items to peruse – from old army paraphernalia to kitchen gadgets and ceramic wares. The various street life lends Plaka extra character and tantalises your senses with the various Greek traditional dishes on offer.

Tip: get there before 11am. The Market is very popular with locals too, so it gets busy.

The Plaka Stairs is another popular tourist attraction.  Nestled at the base of the Acropolis you’re sure to enjoy a slow climb amongst the many cafes and people enjoying the outdoor lifestyle.

Free Things to Do in Athens – Hourly changing of the guard – Parliament

Watch the Evzones change shift outside Parliament building with their ceremonial ‘dance.’ Wearing the uniform of the Klephts, mountain fighters who fought the Turks from 15th – 19th Century: white tights, white skirt, white blouse with very full sleeves, an embroidered vest, red cap and shoes with big pom-poms – they guard their Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with respect.

Tip: Go on a Sunday at 11am to witness the big event, replete with military brass band.

Free Things to Do in Athens – Take a stroll around Piraeus harbour

piraeus photo
Photo by -Jeffrey-

Greece’s biggest port, Piraeus, is a fascinating place to wander around, particularly if you’re into ships. Watch the bustling tourists and shouting ticket touts as they board the many ferries departing for the 100’s of Greek island destinations, and the workers load and unload cargo from the numerous container ships. Luxurious yachts vi for space in the harbour while cruise ships ferry their passengers to land. A hive of activity, you won’t be bored.

Free Things to Do in Athens – The beaches

alimos photo
Photo by larrywkoester

Not many capital cities can boast a location on the coast with clean beaches.

Votsalakia beach can be found in Piraeus and whilst the coast here is pebbly, it offers clear waters for swimming. Alimos is another popular beach, only 11km from the city centre. Take your towel, sunscreen, hat and book and spend a leisurely day, safe in the knowledge you haven’t far to go to get back to your hotel.

Free Things to Do in Athens – The Agora of Athens

agora of athens photo

Situated in the gardens at the base of the Acropolis/Parthenon, this makes for another peaceful respite in the centre of the city. Soak up the atmosphere with the knowledge that modern democracy originated here: entitled to their 2 pence worth, people would gather here and be allowed to speak for 2 minutes. Socrates was tried here for corrupting the minds of young people, found guilty and ordered to death by drinking hemlock.

Free Things to Do in Athens –  Archaeological monuments on a full moon night

full moon athens photo
Photo by #visualpoetry

Heading to Athens in August? Augusts’ full moon affords visitors the opportunity to visit monuments such as the Parthenon and the Acropolis Museum for free. Enjoy classical music as you wander down Dionyssiou Areopagitou Street at the base of the monument, witness the full moon rising and attend free talks in English about the role of the moon in Ancient Greece. All monuments open until the early hours of the following morning.

Free Things to Do in Athens – A stroll around the Exarchia neighbourhood

exarchia photo
Photo by stanjourdan

Coined the anarchist area of Athens, it’s not as unsafe as the media makes out. Full of fashionable cafés and small food outlets and admittedly, whilst it does have a big police presence, it is a pleasure to wander around this area and view the amazing anti-establishment graffiti. Bansky fans will love it.

As you’ve seen, there are a number of free things to do in Athens.  You don’t need to pay a fortune to enjoy Greece’s capital city.

Have you done any of these activities?  What would you recommend?

Athens Travel App

For more ideas of what to do in Athens, download my Travel App for Android and Apple – Athens’ Best – for the lowdown on where to eat, best neighbourhoods and more.  Click on the image below.

Athens' Best - Touchscreen Travels

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Where to stay in Porto, Portugal

Bex Hall
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14
Where to stay in Porto, Portugal

**Note: Despite any complimentary services received, all thoughts and opinions remain my own**

My experience of Porto researching for Rough Guides, apart from the March weather was a pleasant and enjoyable one and I was able to experience and recommend many different things to see and do in Porto.  Now let’s have a look at where to stay in Porto.

Hostels – where to stay in Porto

The best one I had the experience of staying in was the Gallery Hostel in Bombarda Street – the Art District of Porto.  The area offers a lot of design boutiques and vintage shops, as well as being great for nightlife.  The hostel itself is a converted townhouse and is more luxury in style, offering en-suite Double, Twin and Triple (great for families) rooms – and four or six bed dorms. Towels and sheets are provided, as well as breakfast and the occasional dinner evening.

The hostel’s perfect public area layout – including bar, conservatory garden and screening room – means it hosts regular art and photography exhibits and every Saturday the hostel opens these exhibits up to the public.

A dorm room averages at €20 a night, a double at €70 a night.  They also offer a 5 bedroomed Gallery Home down the road which offers 5 private double en-suite bedrooms, kitchen, living area and a private back patio. This can be rented as individual rooms, or the whole house.

When looking at where to stay in Porto – if hostels are your preference, I can highly recommend the Gallery Hostel and Home.

My room for the night in the @galleryhostel in #Porto, #Portugal. Lovely to sleep in the attic and hear the seagulls.

A photo posted by Rebecca Hall – Travel Writer (@beyondbex) on

Boutique – Where to stay in Porto

I was honoured to be offered to be hosted for one night at the relatively new boutique establishment in the Ribeira district of Porto – 1872 Riverhouse.  Located right by the Muro dos Bacalhoeiros restaurant and right in front of the Douro river, this renovated house offers only 8 rooms, 4 with street view (€155) and 4 with river view (€195).  All rooms have beautiful individual features and the street view rooms look out onto the cobbled street below (very Charles Dickens), whilst obviously the river view rooms have views over the Douro.

There is no time limit for breakfast – so with a check out time at 12pm, you can leisurely get up in the morning, pack your bags and eat the fresh fruit, croissants, coffee, cheese and hams at 11am before you check out. And even after you’ve checked out, there’s no rush to leave. Why not sip another coffee in the living area overlooking the river?
More 1872 Riverhouse deals can be found here.

The 1872 Riverhouse has a gorgeous stained glass galleried entranceway, and if you book direct with them on their site, offers a free airport pick up or drop off, plus a free welcome drink.

1872 Riverhouse Entrance - Life Beyond Borders Bog
1872 Riverhouse Entrance – Where to stay in Porto

Riverside Room in 1972 Riverhouse - Where to Stay in Porto
Riverside Room in 1972 Riverhouse – Where to Stay in Porto

Grande Hotel do Porto – Where to stay in Porto

If you’re looking for something more central (right on Rua de Santa Caterina) and for somewhere more ‘bourgeoisie’ – the Grande Hotel do Porto, built in 1880 is the place to come.  With 40 rooms, 5 suites and 1 royal suite, it adds a touch of historic class to Porto and the Victorian style facade tempts you to enter and experience the French mirrors, chandeliers and marble columns within its dining and drawing rooms.  Famous guests include the Emperor and Empress of Brazil in 1880 and the President of Portugal in 1934 (just a few of many).

Rooms start at €82.  Or see here for more deals.

Suite at the Grande Hotel do Porto - where to stay in Porto
Suite at the Grande Hotel do Porto – where to stay in Porto

Grande Hotel do Porto - Where to stay in Porto - Photo credits: Grande Hotel do Porto
Grande Hotel do Porto – Where to stay in Porto – Photo credits: Grande Hotel do Porto

Of course, there are many places to stay in Porto – especially now as it is in the middle of a tourism boom. These are a selection of my favourites and I hope have whetted your appetite even more to visit this eclectic and beautiful city.

Check flights to Porto.


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Discover places to stay in Porto, Portugal. European City 2017
Where to stay in the magical city of Porto, Portugal

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