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Athens International Airport – Greece. Why it’s a pleasure to fly from/to

Bex Hall
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14
Athens International Airport – Greece. Why it’s a pleasure to fly from/to

Having travelled a fair bit, I’ve seen my fair share of the inside of airports.  Back in the 1990’s, I even worked for about half a decade (that makes me sound old) at one of the world’s busiest airports: London Heathrow.  So whilst I am no connoisseur, I like to consider myself a little knowledgable about airports.

**This post includes affiliate links.  For more info, see here.**

For a start, I am a firm believer that aesthetics and space plays a big role in helping to calm the traveller down. When I used to work in LHR Terminal Two back in the 90s, it was an old multi-story car park that had been converted – horrible for aesthetics and stress levels; low ceilings exacerbating noise, awful strip lighting.  I was so pleased when it received a well-deserved upgrade and is now known as The Queen’s Terminal and is now one of my favourite terminals to fly into/out of – all that light emanating from the tall windows.

But by far my favourite airport in Europe is Athens International.  I may sound biased because I love Greece and spend a lot of my time here, and you may disagree with me – but allow me to show you why.

Spacious Departures Hall at Athens International Airport

Athens airport photo
Photo by markhillary

Remember, for me it’s all about the aesthetics.  Athens International Airport offers a huge departures hall/check in area with high ceilings and floor to ceiling windows, offering a lot of light.  Even though there’s a buzz in the airport, it’s strangely quiet.

Good range of eateries at Athens International Airport

Where to eat at Athens Airport - Greece - LifeBeyondBorders

Athens International Airport offers a range of places to eat, even before you’ve cleared Passport control to go to Airside.  The ubiquitous McDonalds restaurant is on the first floor (about the only time I ‘treat’ myself to a cheeseburger), and the highlight is that you can eat it with a great view of the runway.
Next to this is more of a sit down restaurant place- La Pasteria – offering Italian pasta with a good selection of wine.  A nice way to start your journey, although not cheap (but what do you expect? No sit down places really are in an airport).
Airside – towards International Departures – you have the Heineken Star Bar which, as you’ve probably guessed, is a beer bar (soft drinks too) and snacks such as sandwiches, right in the heart of the Non-Schengen departure gate area.

Culture at Athens International Airport

Your cultural experience starts (and finishes) as soon as you enter the airport.  Located in the Departures Hall on the first level, just before the eateries – you’ll find housed the Permanent Exhibitions of Archaeological Findings containing artifacts dating from the Neolithic and Early Helladic to the Post-Byzantine period.  It’s open from 06:00 – 23:00 daily. (Note: A BIG sign stating no photography allowed was displayed, so I can’t post any photos, sorry!)

Eliftherios Venizelos at Athens Int. Airport - Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Eliftherios Venizelos, next to the Archaeological Museum at Athens Int. Airport – Greece

There’s also an exhibition that pays homage to Eleftherios Venizelos, the 32nd Prime Minister of Greece and an eminent leader of the Greek National Liberation Movement, pushing for liberal democratic policies, and who the airport is named after.  This exhibition shows his personal and political life documented through photographs.  He is regarded as one of the key figures in Greek Modern History, so it’s quite an honour to see this exhibition.

Art & Culture Photography exhibits: There are periodic photography exhibitions on this level too – here is one example of ‘Greek Forests, Greek Destinations’ highlighting some of the greener parts of the country, and rich biodiversity…whetting your appetite for more.

Photography exhibits at Athens Int. Airport - Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Photography exhibits at Athens Int. Airport – Greece

There are also periodic events that take place, such as live bands and tango.  Take a further look at the exhibitions and events at Athens Airport here.

Children’s Play Area at Athens International Airport – Greece

I like this cute Children’s Play Area on the second floor of Departures.  Operated by local NGO ‘The Smile Of A Child‘, it’s free, open Daily from 09:00 – 21:00 and so long as any child between 1.5yrs and 7yrs is accompanied by at least one adult, it’s a great place to take your kid to play, to read stories, to meet other kids, to draw.  Maybe burn off some energy before that long flight.

Entry to Children's Play Area at Athens Int. Airport Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Entry to Children’s Play Area at Athens Int. Airport
Children's Play Area - Athens Int. Airport - Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Children’s Play Area – Athens Int. Airport – Greece

Shopping at Athens International Airport – Greek Products and airside

Korres and Apivita Shops at Athens Int. Airport Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Korres and Apivita Shops at Athens Int. Airport

As I say, I know it’s no Singapore Changi or Dubai, but I do like the traditionally Greek products on sale at Athens International Airport, such as Korres and Apiveta skincare and beauty products – using only natural ingredients such as olive oil and different herbs and plants. The perfect opportunity for you to buy that last minute gift, or treat for yourself before you’re whisked off.
And don’t forget the Duty Free!  Yes, it’s not a huge airport, as I keep acknowledging…but there’s something about too much choice that’s overwhelming at times.  I know I always wait until I fly to buy my Mac products at the airport, not to mention the traditional Greek foods like olive oil and olives to take back.

Duty free shopping at Athens Int. Airport Greece - plus local goods . LifeBeyondBorders
Duty free shopping at Athens Int. Airport – plus local goods.

So there you have it.  A run down as to why, although not huge and necessarily glamorous, I find Athens International Airport a pleasure to fly from.

Find out ways to get to and from the airport in this great blog write up Athens Airport to City.

Places to Stay near Athens International Airport Greece

Holiday Inn Athens Attica Av. Airport West This family-friendly Spata-Artemida hotel is located near the airport, within 3 mi (5 km) of McArthurGlen Designer Outlet and Attica Zoological Park. American College of Greece and Expo Athens are also within 6 mi (10 km).  It has High-speed Internet, plus Swimming pool. Or:
Looking for Hotels? Get them all in 1 simple searchAnd if you’re looking for somewhere to stay near the airport other than an expensive hotel, I would highly recommend St. Thomas’s B&B…situated two stops from the airport by metro, the owners will meet you there or even an airport pick up/drop off and have an outdoor pool!

Whilst staying in Athens, read my Insider’s Guide to Visiting Athens to get the lowdown on alternative things to see and do.

Enjoy your time flying into or out of Athens!

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Facilities at Athens International Airport - Greece- LifeBeyondBorders

In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – Luxury on Rhodes island, Greece

Bex Hall
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0
In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – Luxury on Rhodes island, Greece

Most of you will have heard of Rhodes Island, Greece. I travel regularly to the chain of islands that Rhodes belongs to (the Dodecanese) because I have the chance to research and update the Rough Guide to the Greek Islands – and the Dodecanese have become my speciality.  This post is going to take a look at a beautiful boutique hotel experience to be had in the Old Town of Rhodes – the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel.

**This post includes affiliate links.  For more info, see here.**

I was fortunate enough to be hosted by In Camera during my two night stay. Despite this, all thoughts and opinions remain my own.

Rhodes Old Town

Fans of Rhodes will know that the Old Town – or the Medieval City – was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.  It’s a place where you can meander and get lost among the cobbled streets.

Old Town Streets of Rhodes - LifeBeyondBorders
Old Town Streets of Rhodes

Since the start of the Financial Crisis in Greece, however, a lot of stylish and lovingly re-created boutique hotels have cropped up – which seems an anathema to the current situation in Greece.
That said – to my mind it’s worth spending money for a couple of nights in one of the luxury hotels in Rhodes Old Town on offer within the walls of the Citadel.

The latest one I tried out was In Camera Art Boutique Hotel.

In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – Rhodes Old Town – Greece

The initial great thing about the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel is its location.  It’s right inside the Old Town so you get a feel as if you’re really stepping back in time – plus Sofokleous Square, where it’s located, offers a range of high quality tavernas, literally a stone’s throw from your establishment.

This traditional Greek house has been restored in a way that respects both the environment and culture, yet with a modern twist. The owner is a multi-exhibited, award-winning photographer and each of the seven suites are named after one of his exhibitions, offering a special selection of art photos carefully chosen from these, as well as a display of the various cameras that have been used over these years by the photographer.

My Terra Incognita In Camera Art Boutique Hotel suite was named after a 1997 photo exhibition by the owner – inspired by his  visit to the Northern Greece region of Thrace. Photos on the walls reflect the remoteness of the area and the 47 sq m suite itself is on two levels, offering a king sized bed, 2 bathrooms (one with Jacuzzi shower) and one toilet room, a living area that can convert into two single sofa beds, ceramic tiled and wooden flooring – plus floor to ceiling windows that let in so much natural light, it highlights the pastel shades of the walls beautifully.

Terra Incognita Suite - In Camera Art Boutique Hotel - Rhodes Old Town - Life BeyondBorders
Terra Incognita Suite – In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – Rhodes Old Town

The size of the room means that it’s comfortable for a family of three or four, or a perfect hideaway for a romantic break.

In Camera Boutique Hotel, Rhodes – Suites

There are five more suites on offer:

Nike of Samothraki. As the hotel website claims:

Shades of green and brown let the sun victoriously transfer you to the Middle East through its small Turkish style windows.
The  41 m2 suite is located on the 1st floor of the hotel with 1 bathroom with Jacuzzi showers, 1 king-size bed, a living area with two single sofa beds, wooden and ceramic floor.
In Camera Art Boutique Hotel, Old Town of Rhodes island, Greece - Life Beyond Borders
Nymph of Helios. As the hotel website claims:
Featuring vivid colored tiled floors, a Hamam-style main bathroom and a decoration that travels you through centuries of Anatolian style.
The 54 m2 suite is located on the 1st floor of the hotel, with one bathroom in Hamam-style with Jacuzzi shower, and one WC room, one 1 king-size bed, a living area with two single sofa beds, wooden and ceramic floor and a small balcony.
Forms of Light.  Extending over three levels and named after the 1984 Greek and European photography exhibition by the owner, emphasising the impact of light details in  photography, the hotel website claims:
[This] 61 m2 suite is located on the 1st floor of the hotel, with two bathrooms with Jacuzzi shower, one WC room, two bedrooms with king-size bed each, a relaxing area with one single sofa bed,  wooden and ceramic floors and two spacious private terraces.

A Travel into The Lights. A smaller, but no less aesthetically beautiful room on the ground floor, the hotel website describes this as:

Rhodes has been connected with Apollo since the dawn of history, due to the island’s special bond with “light”. This fact is also the inspiration for [the owner’s] exhibition of 1995 “Rhodes, a Travel into the light”.
The 30 m2 room is located on the ground floor of the hotel with one spacious bathroom, 1 king-size bed and ceramic floor.

And finally there’s the:
Mediterranean Pearls. Described on the hotel’s website as:
…named after the “Dodecanese Islands, Pearls of the Mediterranean”, and exhibition presented by [the owner] in 2005. Seascapes and landscapes of the islands that justify the term “pearls”.
The 30 m2 room is located on the ground floor of the hotel with one spacious bathroom with Jacuzzi bathtub and one shower, 1 king-size bed and ceramic floor.
So that’s a description of the rooms in the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel.  I was shown around all of them, and have to say, what stood out to me was the choice of colours in the rooms.
The beds were of superb quality and I had real difficultly in getting up in the morning!  But with so much on offer in the Old Town – to see and explore – after an extra half an hour luxuriating in the king size bed, off I went to get lost among the cobbled lanes of this ancient place.
View from the roof terrace of the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel - Rhodes Old Town. Life Beyond Borders
View from the roof terrace of the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – Rhodes Old Town
Together with its unique décor—there’s even an old hammam bathroom in one of the suites—In Camera Art Boutique Hotel makes for an exclusive stay.

Recommended for: Honeymooners, Anniversary and a perfect location for an authentic feel of being inside a medieval city – one of the last remaining ones that still has residents inside.

if you’re feeling flush, In Camera also offers its Places of Suspension – the old family home now restored into a 160 sq m three bedroomed, two bathroomed villa to rent.

For In Camera rates and unbiased reviews, check here. I will receive a little bit of commission if you choose to book through this link, but it’s at no extra cost to you, and helps keep the blog running.

I do hope you’ll choose to visit The Old Town of Rhodes next time you visit, and choose to stay at the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel – it’s certainly worth it.

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Where to stay in Rhodes Greece - In Camera Art Boutique Hotel - LifeBeyondBorders

Kastellorizo Greece

Bex Hall
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10
Kastellorizo Greece

Kastellorizo – Greece: Where is it?

Kastellorizo is one of those incredibly remote Greek islands that people tend to visit for a completely real Greek island experience.  Its distance from other islands and the mainland, plus the fact it has no real package holiday appeal, means that it’s a Greek island that appeals to those looking for relaxation and aesthetic beauty.
The 1991 Oscar-winning film Mediterraneo was filmed here, the island’s Venetian architecture making it perfect for the film’s storyline.

From the above map, you can see how near Turkey it is (only one nautical mile, actually) and a LONG way from Athens.

It’s about three hours by ferry from the more mainstream island of Rhodes or Kos and also has a tiny, almost comical airport – more an airstrip that propeller planes can land, making travel from Athens easy – more a place where supplies can be dropped off for the locals (in the last census only a local year round population of 492 people was recorded).

Things to do on Kastellorizo Greece

As it’s a remote island – it’s only 41 sq km (110 sq miles) it’s worth coming maybe for a couple of days to see, and most – if not all – of the activity is centred around the port of Megisti, as is the accommodation.

Things to do on Kastellorizo island - Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Things to do on Kastellorizo island – Greece. LifeBeyondBorders

Alekos Zygouris – the sculptor of Kastellorizo

I bumped into Alekos Zygouris back in 2014 when I was on a ferry travelling from Rhodes to the island. We were both watching the sea go by and the occasional dolphin rear its head.  Sitting out on deck, we got chatting and he told me about his life on the island; in brief he’s lived there for over 35 years – in the summer mainly – and lives amongst the limestone rocks at the harbour’s edge.

He lives frugally off his occasional sales of sculpting work – but demands and expects no payment for this project he’s undertaking. His aim is to sculpt the rocks into something magnificent so that future generations will have something to be proud of.  “Not a lot to be proud of in this day and age I’m afraid” he reflects. “Maybe I can help do something about that, at least visually.”

Alekos Zygouris- the Sculptor of Kastellorizo island, Greece
Alekos Zygouris- the Sculptor of Kastellorizo island, Greece

Fast forward to when I visit again and I pop into a local taverna to have some lunch at Alexandra’s who, I have to say, are very friendly.  See here my photo with the mother of Alexandra.  Quite deaf, she was happy to have me sit with her and although we couldn’t understand each other we nodded along, munching bread and taramasalata dip together.

Old Greek YiaYia and Bex of Life Beyond Borders at Alexandra's Taverna on Kastellorizo island Greece
Old Greek YiaYia and Bex of Life Beyond Borders at Alexandra’s Taverna on Kastellorizo island – Greece

I ask the owner if Alekos is still around.

Ah yes, of course!  Are you going to visit him?  If so, can you take him this food please?

I grinned as I took the proffered food packaged up.  I remembered; Alekos lives in pretty much isolation out by the harbour edge in an old chapel and tent.  He doesn’t have any running water, electricity or the such…he prefers to be at one with the elements in order to express himself on the environment around him; the limestone rocks he works with using only a hammer and chisel.

It’s nice to see the local eateries looking after him and, effectively, sending food parcels. Not that I needed a reason to take a visit, but I could take him some food too.

Amongst the Kastellorizo Sculptures

I amble past the vast Hotel Megisti at the end of the harbour and pick my way through the vegetation and rocks to the little chapel at the end…where a cat greets me (of course). Stooping to stroke her, Alekos must have heard my approach and stops his work, coming to greet me.

Alekos Zygouris Scultures in the hillside - Kastellorizo island - Greece. Life Beyond Borders
Alekos Zygouris Scultures in the hillside – Kastellorizo island – Greece

Rebecca, yes?

I was really touched he remembered me from several years ago.  We wander around his work and I admire at how much it has come on in the three years since I last saw it. Handing over my food parcel, he makes me a cup of herb tea from his gas stove and we sit and watch the sun set over the sea and the boats chugging along to/from the harbour.

View of Kastellorizo island - Greece. Life Beyond Borders
View from Alekos’s ‘home’ of Kastellorizo island – Greece

Well, see for yourself Alekos’s work…I think you, too, will be amazed.

Alekos Zygouris sculptures on Kastellorizo island - Greece . Life Beyond Borders
Alekos Zygouris sculptures on Kastellorizo island – Greece

For your pick of hotels to stay in in Kastellorizo, check here and here.  I do hope you’ll come and visit this island – very near to Fry in Turkey.  Be sure to watch out for these amazing sculptures…they’re pretty hard to miss.  This is the work over 14 years…and he intends to keep working at the rocks…it’s where he is happiest.

How to find the sculptures of Kastellorizo island, Greece

Be sure to go past the Megisti Hotel at the harbour’s end and visit Alekos in his chapel.  He welcomes visitors, or you may be lucky and see him actually at work. But don’t stay too long; as a man who loves nature and lives so much alone, naturally he likes his own company, so be respectful of this.

Tips

  • Fly to Rhodes then take a ferry.
  • No need to spend any more than 2 or 3 days on the island – it’s tiny (and quite expensive).
  • Why not then head off to the delightful island of Symi after.
  • Greek ferry times can be found here.

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Kastellorizo - the sculptures to visit on this Greek island - LifeBeyondBorders
Kastellorizo – the sculptures to visit on this Greek island – LifeBeyondBorders

Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso

Bex Hall
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12
Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso

Having travelled a fair bit around the Greek islands (and further afield), when having the opportunity to stay in luxury, I’d primarily stayed in small boutique hotels such as Kokkini Porta Rossa in Rhodes island and Sir Athens small boutique hotel in Athens.

I’d always been of the opinion that larger resort style places were impersonal and when one was inside, one could actually be anywhere in the world just so long as there was a pool and sunshine.  My opinion of larger resort luxury places changed when I stayed at the Lindian Village in Rhodes, and more recently, the Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso on the large Greek island of Kos.

**I was a guest of Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso – note that all thoughts and opinions remain my own**

The Greek island of Kos and Grecotel Kos

Kos is an island that’s renowned for package holiday hotels – and to be honest, a lot of them are quite impersonal.  It is possible to find the occasional family run hotel, yet as lovely as they are, they don’t necessarily have their own beach – which is one of the many benefits a larger package hotel can offer.

The Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso, however, is in a world and class of its own and breaks any preconceptions you may have had about large resort hotels (or, with my pre-conceptions already being challenged by the Lindian Village in Rhodes, a stay at the Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso helped to break down my opinions even further).

Grecotel Kos island Imperial Thalasso Hotel - Life Beyond Borders

The Grecotel chain of hotels in a nutshell

What makes Grecotel special for me is that it’s a Greek ‘chain’, actually originating from the island of Crete over 40 years ago.

Now Grecotel operates over 30 hotels in 11 destinations around the islands and mainland of Greece (including two on Kos, one on Rhodes and one on Mykonos, seven on Crete and then several spread across the mainland including Athens and the Peloponnese).

They also operate the Agreco Farm on Crete where a lot of the natural produce from there is used in some of their hotels in Crete.  They also sell their products in the Grecotel shop they have on site in all their hotels. So let’s now have a look at the actual hotel, the ‘Grecotel Experience’ as I like to term it.

Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso

Your Grecotel Experience starts the minute you enter the doors.

Exclusive Lobby Lounges - Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso. © Grecotel. Life Beyond Borders
Exclusive Lobby Lounges – Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso.
© Grecotel

A refreshing hand towel and fresh juice is offered as you check-in.  Depending on the ‘package’ you’ve booked, you can be shown to your room or suite by management.  The hotel actually offers a range of accommodation to suit all:

  • Double Rooms – in the main building
  • Bungalow
  • Deluxe Bungalow Suite
  • Seafront Bungalow Suite
  • Petit Family Bungalow
  • Junior Bungalow Suite
  • Family Guestroom
  • Family Bungalow
  • Maisonette

All have their own individual style and quirks such as separate living room (not the double rooms), almost vintage like furnishings with four poster beds, sleeps 2-3 and some even have their own small pool.

I was placed in the Deluxe Seafront Bungalow suite – as you can see, it had its own living room and four poster bed.  Very comfortable, and excellent for a family of three or four – as the living room can double as an extra bedroom.  Gorgeous views across the lagoon pool to the beach and sea beyond.


Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso Facilities

Private beach, lagoon pools and waterfalls await, plus a choice of four restaurants to dine in, with lagoon pool views.  Various water sports on site such as windsurfing and water polo, two tennis courts, a PADI Diving Centre and various gymnastic activities such as morning yoga or aerobics will keep you busy.

Kos-Imperial-Thalasso-a-water-palace-evoking-the-welcome-cool-of-the-Aegean-breeze © Grecotel. Life Beyond Borders
Kos-Imperial-Thalasso-a-water-palace-evoking-the-welcome-cool-of-the-Aegean-breeze
© Grecotel

If that’s not enough, the entertainment team can keep you busy with a traditional Greek folk dancing show, or live music.  There’s enough to keep you busy here, trust me.

Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso Spa

Now we come to the highlight of my stay; an experience at the Elixir Thalasso Spa.

Elixir-Thalassospa,-Open-Air-Jacuzzi © Grecotel. Life Beyond Borders
Elixir-Thalassospa,-Open-Air-Jacuzzi
© Grecotel

The Grecotel Thalasso Kos spa has a range of facilities:

• Aqua Elixir Thalasso Pool, mosaic-laid with wild-water corridor, cannons and shower jet
• Indoor Aerobic Pool
• Open-air Whirlpool
• Sauna & Steam Rooms
• Relaxation Area for after your treatment
• Fitness Room with state of-the-art cardio fitness equipment
• Changing Rooms

and offers a range of treatments; from massage, face treatments and salon such as manicure, pedicure etc to the Body and Soul Elixirs.  I was treated to the Ancient Spirit Elixir – or more commonly referred to as ‘Cleopatra’s Treatment’.

Why?  Well, you start with a body scrub, (although I started with a swim in the Thalasso Pool), then shower, then various yogurts smoothed over you and you’re wrapped in what I can only describe as ‘cling film’ (I’m sure there’s a more technical term for it) and allow the body to absorb the mixture…wash it off.

Grecotel Kos Thalasso Spa treatment, Kos island, Greece. Life Beyond Borders
Grecotel Kos Thalasso Spa treatment

And the highlight: your own mosaic bath in the treatment room’s garden that’s filled with warm water, milk, honey, essential oils and rose petals!  Yes, I really did feel like Cleopatra.
Finally, a massage to totally relax you after all that body pampering.

Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso Spa Treatment - Cleopatra's bath. Life Beyond Borders
Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso Spa Treatment – Cleopatra’s bath

A 1hr 20 min treatment of this kind costs €120.

Grecotel Thalasso Kos – Conclusion

All in all, a stay at the Kos Imperial Thalasso is well worth it.  It’s a tasteful and classy ‘chain’, not really worthy of the word ‘chain’ and the accompanying images that a chain package hotel throws up, to be honest.
It’s perfect for families and couples – and even better for me, maintains its ‘Greekness’. You’ll receive a warm welcome from the attentive staff and for anyone looking to relax in luxury whilst also discovering more about the Greek culture and cuisine, you can’t go wrong with booking a stay at a Grecotel hotel.

Word of advice: In high season it’s possible the loud Greek music from the bar will waft in through your apartment window, so it can be noisy.  It’s not necessarily a place to stay if you’re looking for quiet. But then Kos, by the coast, isn’t really an island that caters to that anyway.

Take a look for rates and bookings.

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Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso - Life Beyond Borders
Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso – Life Beyond Borders

Begpacking in Europe. Trying to reserve judgement, but…

Bex Hall
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43
Begpacking in Europe. Trying to reserve judgement, but…

Picture this scenario: A sunny day in Athens at the start of spring 2017…I come across a controversial and, to me, distressing sight: two lads ‘begging’ for money to fund their onward travels.  They were ‘beg packers’ who were ‘begpacking’, in essence.

Originally published in AUG 2017. Revised MAR 2020

I’ve read about Begpacking – is it a recent phenomenon? – happening in Asia, and couldn’t really believe it: how would anyone have the gaul to ask total strangers to fund their travels?  It smacked of ‘privilege’ to me, and the begpacking phrase came to light (a phrase I’d never really understood to be honest; but in this instance I understand it as a phrase to distinguish otherwise ‘affluent’ young people who run out of money on their travels and just want others to give them some so they can continue).

Forgive me if I am grossly oversimplifying it – and that’s why I admit I need to reserve judgement…until I experienced begpacking in Athens, Greece.

Begpacking had come to Europe.

Begpacking in Europe: What happened?

So, I was walking along the street in a busy tourist area and had experienced the ‘usual’ people begging; on the Metro offering me biro’s or tissues to buy (hey, at least they were offering me something to buy), young kids playing those annoying accordion things, the Greek equivalent of The Big Issue being sold (Sheida) – people doing something.

I round the corner of my destination, near the Acropolis, and there are two guys sitting on the floor on cardboard – relatively well dressed…at least, not in a way you would expect homeless people to dress.  (Feel free to cuss me out if you think I am using inappropriate language, but I am merely stating, in my own words, what happened).

They have a sign in front of them (my paparazzi skills weren’t so great, so I couldn’t get it in focus too much – sorry!) saying they have not enough money to buy tickets to go to Crete.

I was very saddened and slightly (ok, a lot) ? to see this in #Athens today: 2 young lads #begpacking It can’t be read very well (my skills as a paparazzi aren’t yet honed!), but their sign says they are wanting money to get ferry tickets to go to Crete. Just like anyone begging, occasionally I buy a cheese pie and some water for them, so I did for these guys to open up a conversation and to try to reserve my judgement. They told me they specifically wanted money ? to go to Crete (but still took my offering). I asked if they had been to their Embassy (assuming they may have had their things stolen). They said they just don’t have enough money to get them to Crete to continue their travels and want money to continue their travels. So: how do we all feel about this? I am trying to reserve judgement as I didn’t speak long to them and maybe there’s more to the story – but I feel kinda angry ?, especially in a place where people are loosing their homes, go hungry. I feel it’s insensitive – or am I being too hard without knowing everything?

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I try to reserve my judgement when my mind is saying “beg packers!” so, as is my way sometimes, I go to a place and buy some biscuits and two bottles of water to take to them (I never give money to anyone begging – I prefer to give food).

I open up an (albeit short) dialogue.

“Here you go, have some water” (it’s taken with no thanks).
“You might want to thank me”

Them: “Thank you, but we’re looking for money to go Crete.”

(Slightly taken aback at the brazenness of them not at least appreciating what I’d given them – is that me expecting too much?): “OK, so if you haven’t the money, have you been to your Embassy for help?”

Them: “We don’t want to go home, we want to continue our travels.  The Embassy will just arrange for us to go home.  We want to go to Crete to travel.”

Did you try to look for casual work?

Them: “No no no”

By this point I was feeling too angry to continue speaking, so I walked away.

To be fair:

I didn’t stay to get the full story.

  • Maybe they’d been mugged and were not about to admit it to a stranger;
  • Maybe they were from a country where it’s hard to get a visa to travel…and running out of money was embarrassing for them so this was their only option;
  • It’s hard in Athens to find casual work;
  • Maybe once they got to Crete, they’d look for casual work.

But I never stayed to find out.  I was too incensed at the time.  It was only once I got home and simmered down that I tried to see both sides.

But with all the press about begpackers of late, I admit I can’t help but feel maybe they are just taking advantage and being incredibly insensitive.  To borrow a phrase from a friend:

There is a certain sense of entitlement and lack of sensitivity to be begging in the streets of a city where many of the residents are really struggling, and which is being flooded with people fleeing horrors we can’t begin to imagine, in order to fund the next leg of their holiday.
It also shows a considerable lack of insight or foresight. Surely anyone inclined to give to a beggar is more likely to give to someone in real need than a couple of healthy young lads wanting to continue their travels?

Am I being harsh? I am trying to sit on the fence, I really am – but this was my experience and I wish I’d stayed to talk longer to them.

What has your experience been of begpackers/begpacking? Are you a begpacker that wants to share your side of the story?
This Independent Newspaper article talks about why the journalist refuses to judge westerners busking to fund gap year travel, but these guys I experienced weren’t even busking…just begging.

  • Meanwhile, if you’re coming to a Greek island or Greece at all, here’s my free downloadable packing list guide (if they’d have asked, this is one thing they could have got free from me).
  • Looking for ideas on what to do during your citybreak to Athens? Read my Things to do in Athens 

Thoughts? Share in the comments.

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Begpacking in Europe - Life Beyond Borders

Best cities in Europe for nightlife

Bex Hall
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10
Best cities in Europe for nightlife

We all know London and Paris offer an eclectic mix of entertainment for anyone looking to make the most of their evenings, but what about some of those overlooked gems across the rest of Europe?  Are you looking for something a little different? Well, here are five up and coming cities in Europe offering great nightlife that you might not have thought about trying.

**This post has some affiliate links which means if you choose to purchase any item, I will receive a little commission, at no cost to you.**

Best cities in Europe for Nightlife

  1. For class: Prague – Czech Republic

Prague - Life Beyond Borders

The Czech capital is rightly associated with class and historical romantic weekend breaks, but there are certainly a few spots which will appeal to any intrepid partier.

The Hemmingway Bar is a particular hotspot for people looking for a classy knees up, with this cocktail bar offering a unique range of drinks. Their speciality comes in the form of a hollowed out book with an ice cold flask in the middle of it. This bar is, without question, worth trying out if you’re looking for a more raucous and fun night.

For people looking to experience more culture, why not take a tour of the city with one of the organised groups that run nightly outings such as a Walking, River Cruise or even Ghost tour?

  1. For something a little different: Athens – Greece

athens at night photo
Photo by Fred Bigio

Athens was, at one point, the centre of the ancient world – and the archaic monuments which still line the city streets serve as a testament to a time when Greece ruled all.


Nowadays things are a little different, but that doesn’t mean the Athenians aren’t still one of the leaders in other aspects of life. The championing of art is a trait which has never died in the city and lives on in modern times.  There’s nothing an Athenian likes more, in the summer, than to take in the latest – or even a classic – movie under the stars whilst sipping a cool beer, glass of wine or cocktail. It’s little surprise you’ll be able to find an open air cinema in whichever Athenian neighbourhood you’re saying in.  Be sure to make an evening of it if you’re visiting this city in Europe.

  1. For backpackers and partiers: Lagos – Portugal

Lagos Portugal. Life Beyond Borders
Photo by sky_hlv

This Portuguese city in the Algarve is situated on top of one of the nicest beachside locations in Europe, having been built alongside an old Medieval town.

However, the area is teeming with bars and clubs that provides to the party atmosphere.

The Secret Traveller even describes the people you’ll find there as “a huge crowd of thirsty backpackers and the cream of Europe’s partying crop.” With reviews like that, it’s not hard to see how Lagos could transform into one of the best spots for a night out on the continent.

  1. For breathtaking views: Innsbruck – Austria

Innsbruck Austria. Best European Nightlife. Life Beyond Borders

Innsbruck is the perfect blend of culture, beautiful scenery and fun, with there being no end of things to do during the day. Ski slopes and mountain trails are just one thing to experience while you’re there, while the gothic-style Imperial Palace provides beautiful architecture.

In the evening you can make the most of the breath-taking scenery by travelling to the top of the City Tower (the largest building in the city) and peering out over Innsbruck itself. Soak in the atmosphere of a region which oozes culture. 

  1. For pubs and architecture: Ljubljana – Slovenia

Ljubljana photo
Photo by Lorenzo L M.

This city in Slovenia might not be the easiest to pronounce, but it’s a fantastic night out regardless.

Ljubljana offers a wide array of different nightlife, the most popular offered in many spots being of a ‘pub crawl’ around the city: visiting different drinking holes.

For something a little more cultural, there’s a bevy of architecturally beautiful spots for you to enjoy when the sun goes down and the city starts to sleep. From the famous Dragon Bridge and the River Ljubljanica Kanal to the Tivoli Park; there’s bound to be something that’ll impress you in this Slovenian wonderland.

These are just five of the best and most surprising destinations for superb nightlife in Europe. Why not check out one of these venues the next time you take a trip abroad?

Have you been?  Do you agree with these recommendations?  Where’s your favourite place for a European night out? Be sure to leave a Comment.

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Best Alternative European Cities with Great Nightlife - have you been to any of them or have any recommendations of your own?
Best Alternative European Cities with Great Nightlife – have you been to any of them or have any recommendations of your own?. Top photo © Lisa Fotios Photo of Prague © Wanderlusting K

 

Surprising European Cities for Great Night life. Have you been to any of them?
Surprising European Cities for Great Nightlife. Have you been to any of them?

Evzone Soldiers of Greece interview

Bex Hall
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16
Evzone Soldiers of Greece interview

Any tourist visiting Athens won’t have failed to experience them—you know, the soldiers that stand guard outside Parliament with dead straight faces; not flinching, not moving a muscle and occasional doing a funny walk.  These are the Evzone Soldiers of Greece.

I was interested to dig deeper—so when Anthe Mitrakos of Portes Magazine put me in touch with two brothers, one who had served in the Evzone Company and the other who served in the Command Company of the Presidential Guard, I was really grateful to be afforded an interview with them.

Background of the Evzone soldiers of Greece

What’s an Evzone Soldier?

They’re the soldiers that stand outside the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (where most of the tourists head to have their photos taken) outside the Parliament building in Syntagma Square, Athens.  They also stand guard outside the Presidential Palace and the gate of the military camp, where the Evzones stay during their time – located just behind the Presidential building.

It’s important to say, here, that Evzones are not paid for their service. It is part of the nine month military service that all Greek males must undertake. Not everyone is selected to be an Evzone—and for this reason, it is an honour. More about that later.

Evzone soldiers in Greece coming to the Greek Parliament - to guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - Life Beyond Borders
Evzones coming to the Greek Parliament – to guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

There are two parts of the Presidential Guard section of military service guards:

1) Command Company

– Not the ‘men in kilts’ (Foustanella) i.e: not the evzones themselves
– Consists of one platoon whereby they undertake administration duties such as:
• chefs
• office work
• laundry
• looking after the uniforms
• drivers
• guards of the military camp
• soldiers who manage the restaurant: serve food, etc

2) Evzone Company

– These are the guards who wear the foustanella (kilt consisting of 400 pleats, to represent the 400 years of Ottoman rule)
– Three platoons that guard:
• The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (1 pair)
• The Presidential Mansion (1 pair)
• The Gate of the Military Camp (1 evzone soldier)

I settle down to a coffee with Orestis and Aris Konstantinidis. They’re both in their 20s—Aris lives in Athens, Orestis in Agrinio, a small town on the mainland in western Greece. Luckily he was visiting Athens that weekend.
What struck me upon meeting them was how eager they were to share their experiences, to allow me into their world.

How are the Evzone soldiers of Greece selected?

I had three reasons for wanting to be an evzone

confides Orestis, the taller and older of the two brothers.

1) To honour my grandmother’s wish
2) I wanted a challenge (being an Evzone certainly provides that. More on that later)
3) To be near my girlfriend, who lived in Athens

Orestis Konstantinidis - an Evzone sildier of Greece on duty. LifeBeyondBorders
Orestis Konstantinidis on duty

The brothers had both completed their nine month military service and Orestis told me about the selection process:

All military service candidates undertake one month general training where they’re not allowed to leave the camp. After this month, they’re sent to their certain speciality.

Every two months, Officers of the Presidential Guard unit come and selects men for evzone training based on their height (1.85cm or taller) and their chiselled looks.

Many men try to hide their true height by slouching!

exclaims Orestis. This is because there are many rumours—mostly true—about how hard evzone training is. Out of 100 men selected for training, only forty or fifty pass to become actual evzones. The rest serve in the Command Company (see above), or get transferred to other units.

Training of the Evzone Soldiers of Greece

The first days

As Orestis talks about his experiences, he beams with pride, indeed as does Aris. It’s clear that Aris is proud of his older brother.

We were so nervous on the military bus, having been selected from our camp in Messolonghi and travelling down to Athens. We had heard so many rumours, we just didn’t know what to expect!

But mixed with this was also a feeling of excitement. Evzones are known to have one of the toughest training in the Special Forces in Greece, so to pass is truly a testament not only to one’s physical strength, but also their character.

Orestis on duty. Evzone Soldiers of Greece must not move or speak. Life Beyond Borders
Orestis on duty.

Once they finally arrived in their camp, the new recruits—‘juniors’—were to live in the ‘Aquarium,’ called this unofficially as it is the basement in the camp and has high humidity, no windows and is generally uncomfortable.
They were commanded—no, yelled at—to not make any eye contact or speak to the other senior’ evzones, only each other and their trainer. Their individual camp badges were ripped from their uniforms, and Orestis tells me that in the first day of camp, some are sure they are not going to last the month’s training for juniors.

A typical day of an Evzone Soldier

Up at 05:30 and made to stand for half an hour in the corridor of ‘The Aquarium’.

You’re still a little sleepy, so you sway a little bit, are not so steady on your feet

tells Orestis. But from the very start, the trainers get tough on you. No ‘swaying’ allowed!

Physical exercises such as running follows this, then breakfast—but not with the other evzones (remember—no eye contact or speaking to them!).

After breakfast comes Weapons Training. M1 guns from WW1 are used and they practice the typical raise in the air and catch on their left shoulder—“which gets very quickly bruised” says Orestis.

Then comes the ‘standing still’ training. The first week they have to stand still for 15, 20 minutes tops. This increases over the weeks until the final week of the month, they are expected to stand stock still, no movement for approx. 2 hours.

Whilst standing still, you may be teased, the trainer may try to make you laugh, try to steal your gun. All the time, you must stand straight, eyes front, no blinking or swallowing even! You are shouted at if you do. This is to prepare you for you actual Evzone duty, especially if a tourist is nearby.

Teargas

Teargas affects the eyes of an Evzone soldier in Athens, Greece - Life Beyond Borders
Teargas affects the eyes of an Evzone soldier in Athens, Greece

Many of you will know that unfortunately, Athens has been prone to riots and tear gas has been deployed. In order to prepare evzones for this, some choose to take it upon themselves to squeeze lemon juice or garlic near their eyes to make them water, and practice no blinking.

This is not part of the official training and the trainers do not do this, some Evzones choose to, maybe to push themselves just that bit further.

You hate the trainers at first, you feel you’re forced into this role

says Orestis. But then comes the realisation that it’s not just about discipline, it’s about feeling proud of their role…the realisation that they are actually becoming better people too.
Orestis also became a trainer. “We have ‘good cop/bad cop’ types. He coyly smiles. “I was the good cop.” At first, the junior evzones hate them, as did Orestis when he joined, but then—when the realisation comes that this is a time when they also build their characters, he began to feel very proud…he realised that it was a trainer’s role to pass the traditions on to the juniors, to help them become better people too.

Partners
Orestis partnered up with a fellow Evzone soldier. Life Beyond Borders
Orestis partnered up with a fellow Evzone soldier.

During the training, you’re partnered up with someone who looks similar to you. Taller evzones guard the Tomb of the Unknown soldier in front of the Parliament building, shorter ones guard the mansion, around the back of Zappion Gardens. This was Orestis’s post. He speaks with great fondness of his partner—it seems the bond is strong between soldiers (as anywhere in the world?). Orestis is very emphatic about the fact that the evzones…

…don’t guard the Parliament per say, it’s the concept of Democracy they’re guarding.

The Evzone soldier’s uniform

The uniform is very heavy. It consists of:

  • A scarlet Farion—a red fez with a black tassel and national emblem on the front
  • The Doulamas—every day tunic. Navy blue in winter and khaki in summer
  • The Foustanella—kilt made from 30m of white cloth with 400 pleats, to represent the 400 years of Ottoman rule
  • The Ypodetes—a white shirt with very wide sleeves
  • The Fermeli—a waistcoat. Some will have stripes, yellow ones represent the military rank, Sergeants have two yellow stripes, Corporals have one
  • The Krossia—fringes around the waist in blue and white
  • The Epiknemides—garters made of black silk
  • Periskelides—white woollen stockings
  • Anaspastos—inside garter which holdes the Periskelides in place
  • The Tsarouchia—red leather clogs with black pomp poms. They have many nails underneath to make the tapping you hear when they march, and each clog weighs roughly one kilo.
Orestis and partner in their winter uniform. Evzone soldiers of Greece. Life Beyond Borders
Orestis and partner in their winter uniform

Evzone soldiers on duty

When they make it through to an official Evzone, whilst on duty no blinking is allowed. If the Evzone gets into any difficulty, there is a soldier around to assist. He can come and wipe sweat from their brow, give them water, place a coat over them if they’re chilly in winter or wipe tears from tear gas (see above). Or if none of these are required, he can come near to the Evzone and ask questions about what might be wrong…the Evzone may blink once for ‘yes,’ twice for ‘no’ and three times for ‘I don’t know.’

Command Guards

Aris, the younger brother, was a Command Guard of the Evzone unit. His duty was to guard the camp, and was also responsible for the coordination of all the Evzones’ activities inside the camp during the day. In order to achieve the flawless and at-the-right-time execution of these activities, he sometimes had to hand out ‘punishments’. Usually this was because some people wanted to get out of being an Evzone, so would fake an illness or underperform in their duties on purpose. Aris had to determine the difference between genuine and laziness.

It’s a prestigious position to be in, being responsible for all the evzones and their day-to-day activities. Many people actually want to be evzones, so it’s insulting when someone is just plain lazy or disrespectful to the mission of the Presidential Guard.

As we leave the café, the door is held open for me to leave first. I question how many other young men in their 20s would do that. It strikes me how both brothers are exceedingly polite, not in a fake way, but easy to talk to, have good manners and enthusiasm. Aris is now the Chief Operations Officer of Glovo – a platform that links volunteers to events and volunteer actions together. His entrepreneurial spirit and enthusiasm, throughout the interview rang out, as did Orestis’s stoic calm and anchor-like personality.

Thank you for letting me into the world of the Evzones. I feel privileged to have met such honourable people, and am excited to share this interview with you, my loyal readers.

And there you go ladies: no matter how attractive you may be, or how much you sidle up to them, don’t bother.  Chances are, they won’t even realise you’re there – these guys are pros, and almost get lost in a meditative state.   They’re not interested – and you can bet your life they’re going to be laughing about you back at camp!

Perfectly in sync. Evzone soldiers of Greece changing the Guard. Life Beyond Borders
Perfectly in sync. Evzone soldiers of Greece changing the Guard

Take a look at the little video I took – not with Orestis, but a present day changing of the guard (not that the ceremony has changed at all).

Featured image photo © michelmondadori of Pixabay

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Evzone Soldiers of Greece - Interview with the Presidential Guards
Evzone Soldiers of Greece – Interview with the Presidential Guards. Image © MartinFuchs of Pixabay
beyondbexinterviewsthe-evzone-soldiersin-greece

 

Pelindaba – The Lavender Farm you must see near Seattle, Pacific Northwest

Bex Hall
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2
Pelindaba – The Lavender Farm you must see near Seattle, Pacific Northwest

Whilst on the San Juan islands near Seattle and being a huge fan of anything ‘purple’ I was  delighted to have the opportunity to visit the Pelindaba Lavender Farm.

The San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau had it all planned out –  this was one of the best spots on the island of San Juan.

Originally posted in AUG 2015. Revised and updated in FEB 2020

Miles upon miles of purple at the Pelindaba Lavender Farm - San Juan Island - Washington State - LifeBeyondBorders
Miles upon miles of purple at the Pelindaba Lavender Farm – San Juan Island – Washington State

Pelindaba Lavender Farm – What’s in a name?

Pelindaba is a Zulu word that translates to “Place Of Great Gatherings.”  The founder and owner of the farm – Stephen Robins – is of South African heritage, hence the name.  The Lavender Farm was created in its original form in 1998, mainly by removing old buildings and cultivating a crop on the land to “enhance the beauty of the landscape.”

By 1999, approx 2500 lavender ‘starts’ were planted, and too – thus significantly improving the landscape.  The farm grew from here until in 2001, it was opened to the public: swathes of fields of purple, bees pollinating and lavender bushes blowing in the breeze – quite a remarkable site.

A fuller timeline and history of the farm can be found here.

Lavender Farm on San Juan islands - Seattle - LifeBeyondBorders
Lavender Farm on San Juan islands – Seattle – LifeBeyondBorders

Activities at Pelindaba Lavender Farm in the Pacific Northwest

Because Pelindaba is a place of great gatherings, this is also reflected in the activities on offer: book readings, musical and theatrical events and film evenings, to name but a few.  It offers light lunches and suppers and is a place for both locals and visitors alike to mingle amongst an aesthetically calming and beautiful setting.

To quote the website:

In short — Pelindaba has become a self-sustaining open space preservation model that successfully harnesses mutually compatible farming, manufacturing, marketing and agritourism activities that are as environmentally sound and enhancing as they are economically viable.

Lavender as a product

Lavender has a variety of uses, ranging from perfume, decorative settings, a culinary hereto therapeutic properties such as an antiseptic, a natural sedative (helps calm you when you’re ready for bed…put a few drops on your pillow or better still, buy a lavender pillow) and even a mosquito repellent.  Here you can read all about the various uses of lavender.
The farm offers a variety of lavender products – including lavender ice cream, lavender lemonade and lavender dog biscuits.
Yes, those that know me well will know I couldn’t leave the farm without purchasing a variety of goods – thus weighting my case even more.

One of the many products on offer to buy at Pelindaba Lavender Farm - LifeBeyondBorders
One of the many products on offer to buy at Pelindaba Lavender Farm

Pelindaba Lavender Farm is peaceful

You might think a visit to a lavender farm sounds somewhat boring – trust me, it isn’t.  The environment was peaceful, calming (even before smelling the plants and products) and soothing to the mind and spirit.  And its location on San Juan Island made it even more special – miles upon miles of purple.

Beautiful lavender plants at Pelindaba Lavender Farm on San Juan Island - LifeBeyondBorders
Beautiful lavender plants at Pelindaba Lavender Farm on San Juan Island

Where to stay in the San Juan Islands

When you’re visiting the San Juan islands in the Pacific Northwest to experience all it has to offer, including whale watching, I’d suggest you go glamorous camping. Glamping in the San Juan Islands, especially on Orcas island is the best way to experience nature at its best and put that mosquito repellent to good use.

 

Pelindaba Lavender Farm Facts

  • You can purchase products for: the kitchen, personal care, therapeutic care, for outdoors, for the Home, for floral decoration, candles, for pets, jewellery, books, artwork
  • Pelindaba now has a number of places that stocks their products throughout Washington State, California and Hawaii as well as Arizona
  • It’s possible to hire out the farm for weddings and events (what a beautiful idea!)

My thanks to Barbara Marrett of the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau for introducing me to this beautiful place.  When you come to the San Juans, be sure to get in touch with the Visitors Bureau for ideas of where to visit.

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Lavender Farm on the Pacific Northwest near Seattle - LifeBeyondBorders
Lavender Farm on the Pacific Northwest near Seattle – LifeBeyondBorders

LHR Terminal Two – The Queen’s Terminal

Bex Hall
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0
LHR Terminal Two – The Queen’s Terminal

I often travel between the UK and Greece in my career as a writer.  Way back in 2014 I had the pleasure of utilising the newly refurbished London Heathrow Terminal Two.  WOW!  What a terminal!

Note: Originally written in August 2014, updated in 2020.  Although 6 years old now, the sentiments remain the same: the Queen’s Terminal at LHR Terminal 2 is a pleasure to fly from.

London Heathrow Terminal 2 - The Queen's Terminal - LifeBeyondBorders

I’m fond of well laid out airports, as my Athens International Airport article highlights, hence flying from Terminal 2 at LHR was a pleasure.

Queen’s Terminal – LHR: Spacious

The first thing I noted upon exiting the Underground system was how spacious it was, and that was before I even entered the terminal building.

Outside Terminal Two LHR. Life Beyond Borders
Outside Terminal Two

The initial feeling was one of – dare I say it for an airport – peace!  Yes, such was the design that it made me feel less stressed.  Would this continue once inside?

No way of getting lost - Underground and express train clearly indicated into LHR Terminal Two - the Queen's Terminal. Life Beyond Borders
No way of getting lost – Underground and express train clearly indicated

Interior – Check in

And so to check in.  One thing that struck me about the check in was how QUIET everything was.  It must be the ergonomics of the place as there were certainly enough people about, yet it didn’t feel like it, and all you could here was a low hum of voices.

Check-in at the Queen's Terminal - LHR Terminal 2. Life Beyond Borders
Check-in

And so through to…

Security

This was a VERY pleasing experience.   Maybe it was the time of day, but there was hardly anyone in the queues, so I literally placed all my items on the belt and walked through immediately.  They were even polite to me!

Air side at the Queen’s Terminal LHR

Airside at LHR Terminal Two - the Queen's Terminal - LifeBeyondBorders

I think I might have gasped when I saw the layout for Terminal Two airside.  Spacious, so much natural light and an epic view of the runway – plus lots of places to sit and log into the 45 minute free wi-fi (unless you have a Heathrow Awards card, then it’s free all the time).  And if shopping’s your thing, then you’ll be spoilt for choice.  Not to mention where you can sit and eat.

How about a quiet coffee or snack whilst waiting for your gate to be called? One of many food outlets at the Queen's Terminal at LHR Terminal 2 - LifeBeyondBorders
How about a quiet coffee or snack whilst waiting for your gate to be called? One of many food outlets

And the quiet!  This is the main thing that struck me about the new Terminal Two – how quiet it was.

Travelling can be a stressful experience at the best of times.  To have a well designed terminal that feels relaxed and less noisy makes such a difference.

I know LHR isn’t Kuala Lumpur or Singapore, but overall, I would rate Terminal Two – The Queen’s Terminal, a good 9/10.

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LHR Airport's Queen's Terminal - LifeBeyondBorders

Things to do on Leros island – Greece

Bex Hall
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8
Things to do on Leros island – Greece

As part of my research for the Rough Guides to the Greek Islands, both in 2014 and 2017, one of the islands I visited in the Dodecanese chain was Leros.  It’s a smaller Greek island and certainly does not attract the package holiday crowds, because there are no package holiday tourists.

Originally published in MAY 2017. Revised and updated in JAN 2020.

How to reach Leros island – Greece

It takes about eleven hours to reach Leros by ferry from the Athens port of Piraeus, there are roughly 3 weekly depending on the season.  But you can also fly there as there’s a tiny airport – there is a daily flight from Athens and three weekly from Kos & Rhodes.

See my Insider’s Tips for Taking Ferries in Greece for more info about the ports.  And if you’re looking for ideas of what to bring with you on your Greek island holiday, my Greek island all round packing guide will give you an idea for any time of the year.

Yes, 11 hours is a long journey, but if you have time and can book a cabin (see above for prices and my article as mentioned above for mention of cabins), then it’s a pleasurable journey.

Where to stay on Leros island, Greece

I was hosted by the gorgeous Nefeli Hotel in Krithoni (I will receive a small amount of commission if you choose to book through the link – at no extra cost to you), a few minutes drive from the port of Ayia Marina (where catamarans and smaller ferries arrive – I was travelling from Patmos.

Nefeli Hotel's gorgeous grounds on Leros island, Greece - LifeBeyondBorders
Nefeli Hotel’s gorgeous grounds on Leros island, Greece – LifeBeyondBorders

During my four night stay I was made to feel very welcome and it was a lovely, calming place to come back to after a day’s research.

 

What to do on Leros Island, Greece

Kasto (castle)

Overlooking the whole island, wandering around the grounds of this place I was sure I could hear the whispers of past battles raging – or maybe that was the sea lapping below.

Gorgeous castle grounds on Leros island, Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Gorgeous castle grounds on Leros island, Greece.

View Cafe/Bar

Just before the castle there are six disused windmills.  One has now been turned into a cafe/bar  – View Cafe with a virtual 360 degree view of the island from its terraced garden seating.  Food is simple, delicious and well worth it for the view (hence the title).

View cafe/bar on Leros island, Greece - LifeBeyondBorders
View cafe/bar on Leros island, Greece

Italian architecture everywhere on Leros island

The Italian legacy is alive here in a majority of the buildings one sees, whether dis-used and crumbling, or re-vamped into an art deco hotel, for example. I personally love the architecture and colours, etc.

Typical Leros island cobbled street - Greece - LifeBeyondBorders
Typical Leros island cobbled street – Greece

These are just a few small highlights of Leros island, Greece.  I’d really recommend Leros as an island to visit, where the tourists aren’t out in hordes and have the same idea as you: to come and relax, enjoy the scenery and Greek hospitality.

Leros - Greece: Why you should visit - LifeBeyondBorders
Leros – Greece: Why you should visit – LifeBeyondBorders

All opinions expressed here are my own.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my overview of Leros island, Greece and will plan a visit when you come to this beautiful country.

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The Greek island of Leros - why you should visit - LifeBeyondBorders
The Greek island of Leros – why you should visit – LifeBeyondBorders

Things to do on Halki island Greece – Tips on Visiting

Bex Hall
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0
Things to do on Halki island Greece – Tips on Visiting

Halki is roughly an hour away by catamaran from Rhodes and is tiny, literally, at only 10 sq miles.

It’s perfect as a day trip from Rhodes, or stay overnight (see Accommodation below).

I’d travelled by catamaran before and been sick, so I was a little afraid.  No need to be – this journey was as smooth as a millpond.

More Greek Islands to visit:

Things to do on Halki island – it’s pretty

Halki’s a pretty island – small as I say, yet pretty. Tiny secluded beaches such as Kania and Potamos, it’s possible to walk around virtually the whole island in a day.

Note though, it gets so hot in the summer with July and August temperatures reaching up to 40 degrees celsius sometimes (90 degrees Fahrenheit) . I arrived at 09:30 and had until 16:30 until I left on the return to Rhodes ferry.

As a guidebook researcher my job is to check out accommodation on offer as well as cafes, restaurants and places of interest, so I started by checking out the hotels.

Accommodation on Halki island – Greece

Halki has only one hotel – the St. Nicholas Boutique.  It used to be an old sponge factory, but is now made into a boutique hotel with, admittedly, beautiful views and great swimming straight off the rocks into deep water. Alas, it’s overpriced in my opinion – over 100 Euros per room, and €3.50 for a can of coca-cola.

Swimming from the hotel veranda - Halki island - Greece - Life Beyond Borders
Swimming from the hotel veranda – Halki island – Greece – Life Beyond Borders

Tips for visiting Halki island – Greece

  • Eat at the Magefseis Restaurant, a harbourside taverna with lovely service, and food.
  • Spend some time in the harbour – but no beach there.  Then walk over the hill (about 20 mins, more like 30 in the heat) to Pondamos beach.  Quite busy with Russian tourists in season, but at least there’s a beach- if you don’t want to swim from the rocks.
  • Where to stay on Halki.  It’s recommended you stay at least a couple of nights in this self-catered option; three beautifully maintained traditional stone houses.
  • Nissia Holidays feature a range of studios, apartments and villas around the island on their site – hosting any number of people.  It’s a good option.
  • Because there really is not a lot to do except swim, walk, eat and repeat, Halki is recommended as a short island break.

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Halki the perfect Greek Island getaway - LifeBeyondBorders

Kea island Greece – a day trip from Athens

Bex Hall
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12
Kea island Greece – a day trip from Athens

I always felt that in order to feel like you’re on a ‘proper’ Greek island, one should travel about five hours by ferry to Paros or Naxos, for example – or even further afield to Skopelos or Alonissos.

I shouldn’t be so quick to judge as my experience on Hydra in the Saronic Gulf, for example, has taught me.  It’s an island very near Athens and easily accessible (all Greek islands are, actually – it just depends how long you want to spend travelling to them, if you don’t fly directly or there’s  no airport on some of them).  There are some islands, however, that it is possible to do as a day trip from Athens.  Kea is one of them.

See here my complete Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands to get the lowdown and roundup of my recommended ones to visit.

This time I chose Kea, Tzia in Greek to visit.  Let’s look at Kea island Greece, a day trip from Athens.

Kea Island Greece - Hidden Gem of an Island - LifeBeyondBorders
Kea Island Greece – Hidden Gem of an Island – LifeBeyondBorders

How to get to Kea island Greece – a day trip from Athens

Kea is roughly one hour away by ferry from the port of Lavrio.  Lavrio is approximately a 2 hr bus ride from Athens, mainly because it doesn’t go direct, but via a few different outlaying towns and villages.

Advice for travelling to Kea from Lavrio Port

Lavrio itself is nothing to write home about – and a piece of advice: if you get a bus that gets you there at least 1.5 hrs before the ferry, don’t get off at the port.  Instead, get off in the town centre, go and eat in a taverna overlooking the harbour and then give yourself about 15 mins to walk to the port (or get a taxi if it’s too hot) and buy your ferry ticket.  The ferry offices won’t be open if you’re there too early.

My Insider’s Tips for Taking the Ferries in Greece will help you navigate the Greek ferry ports.

It’s only €12.50 (Euros) one way for a foot passenger – a good price eh?  And the bus ticket from Athens is €5.00 (Euros).
There’s something about being at sea that blows the cobwebs away (literally) and leaves one feeling excited about what lays ahead.

Arriving into the port - LifeBeyondBorders
Arriving into the port of Kea – LifeBeyondBorders

Pulling into the harbour of Kea, I made the short walk of about 10 minutes to my accommodation: Koralli Studios.

And what a lovely location (opposite the beach) and gorgeously done up rooms.  They were a fair size, very clean and not worn looking.  The hosts cleaned my room daily and with solar heating, there was an abundance of hot water.  Prices for one room as 45 Euros, lowered to try to attract more visitors.  It’s a shame there weren’t many people staying (not from my point of view, from the owner’s point of view – the lovely Dimitra) as I like to see local businesses thriving, especially in these times.

Car Hire on the Greek island of Kea

A great hire care for 30 Euros a day was perfect for a Citroen C5.

I took myself off to beaches, monasteries and the Hora (the old capital in the centre of the island – up in the mountains).  It’s possible to see as much as possible in a day and get an evening ferry back to Athens, but stay overnight if you can – make a weekend break.

So here, in pictures, I present Kea.  Enjoy.

Beautiful coastline of the Greek island of Kea - LifeBeyondBorders
Beautiful coastline of the Greek island of Kea

Fishermen going about their day on the Greek island of Kea - LifeBeyondBorders
Fishermen going about their day on the Greek island of Kea

Peaceful monastery grounds on the Greek island of Kea - LifeBeyondBorders
Peaceful Monastery grounds on the Greek island of Kea

 

The Greek island of Kea, the Hora - the village atop the hill. LifeBeyondBorders
Kea Hora – the village atop the hill

 

Kea island, Greece wouldn't be complete without experiencing the sunset. LifeBeyondBorders
Kea island, Greece wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the sunset.

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Kea Island - Greece - Greek Island Hidden Gem - LifeBeyondBorders
Kea Island – Greece – Greek Island Hidden Gem – LifeBeyondBorders

Have you been to Kea? Did you like it? What’s your favourite Greek island?

Where to go Glamping in the Pacific Northwest – Lakedale Resort

Bex Hall
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1
Where to go Glamping in the Pacific Northwest – Lakedale Resort

There are numerous accommodation choices in the San Juan Islands, located just off the coast of Seattle. San Juan Island itself has Bed and Breakfasts, Spas, cottages, cabins and campsites.  San Juan Island Visitors Bureau can organise for you.  I chose Lakedale Resort because, having done my research ahead of time, I knew I wanted to go glamping.

A special thanks to Lakedale Resort for hosting me and providing me with a media rate  during my stay on San Juan Island.

Glamping in the Pacific Northwest. What exactly is glamping?

It’s a new(ish) trend (or rather, I’ve just come to discover it) and involves sleeping in a pre-pitched tent, but the tent is all glammed up, just like a bedroom: wooden floors, rugs, chest of draws, settee (or I had a futon) and double bed.  Glamping in the Pacific Northwest at Lakedale comes complete with lovely feather duvet and extra blankets.

You’re just like a camper, i.e.; no electricity, flashlights have to be used and you share the bathroom facilities with other campers (just as you would if you were camping) – but Glamping is effectively posh camping.

Glamping in the Pacific Northwest WA – Lakedale Resort

As Lakedale on San Juan Island is a resort, it also offered a service whereby they deliver hot water bottles to your tent every night – lovely to put in the bottom of your bed and keep your feet toasty warm.

My glamorous canvas cabin when Glamping at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island. LifeBeyondBorders
My glamorous canvas cabin when Glamping at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island

Located on 82 acres of land with three spring water lakes, at their deepest point – 16ft, situated between Roche and Friday Harbor, Lakedale looked to me to be the perfect place to stay on my San Juan Island get away.

See my recommended top things to do in the San Juan Islands

See also my Best Glamping in the San Juan Islands – Orcas Island

Meanwhile a visit to Pelindaba Lavender Farm on San Juan island is a must visit

One of the three lakes at Lakedale Resort, San Juan Island. Glamping in the Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
One of the three lakes at Lakedale Resort, San Juan Island

I was lucky to have booked my trip very early on. July/August is high season and Lakedale were kind enough to offer me a discounted rate.  A canvas cabin (as the glamorous tents are called) range from approx. $189 for one night in high season.  Refer to Lakedale’s site for latest availability and cost.

Lakedale offers 16 canvas cabins.  One is the Bunkhouse which offers 2 queen sized beds in it and are pitched side by side – perfect for two couples.  One is a duplex; two ‘normal’ sized canvas tents side by side, good for families and the rest scattered around the camp ground.

Excited to be in my canvas cabin, glamping at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island, Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
Excited to be in my canvas cabin, glamping at Lakedale Resort in San Juan Island

 

That’s not all.  Lakedale also has a Canvas Cottage: a big canvas cabin complete with chandelier, fireplace, king sized bed, couch, electricity AND your own bathroom.

It sounded lovely but to be honest, I wanted the camping experience without sleeping on the floor or any electricity, so a canvas cabin suited me just fine.  9pm rolled around and I happily tucked myself up in bed, all snug.  And then after a cloudless day, I heard a pitter patter of rain drops.

Who cared?  I was wrapped up in a double feather duvet, in a double bed with two hot water bottles, lying in bed listening to the rain on my canvas tent.  What more could a girl ask for?

USA Travel - Glamping in the Pacific Northwest - LakeDale Resort - LifeBeyondBorders
USA Travel – Glamping in the Pacific Northwest – LakeDale Resort – LifeBeyondBorders

Wildlife while glamping in the Pacific Northwest

Owls hooting to each other, frogs croaking across the lakes, the occasional laughter from tent sites (OK, not wildlife, but close enough) – I drifted into a really peaceful and un-interrupted sleep.

A Pacific Northwest glamping breakfast

Lakedale offers its glampers the opportunity to have breakfast in their Mess Tent from 8am to 10am every morning.  Cereals, bagels, cream cheese, honey, juices, coffee (of course!) and my favourite – and a big hit with the kids – a pancake making machine.

Other accommodation and activities

You don’t just have to glamp or camp by providing your own tent at Lakedale.  There’s a whole host of accommodation available.

Camping Easy: Lakedale provides the tent for you with two ‘garden beds’ and two chairs outside.  Sleeps two.

Six Log Cabins: Five of them sleep 6 people, the remaining one sleeps 10! They were built by the Armish in the 1980s and have everything; kitchen, living room, wood burning stove, TV (should you want to watch TV on holiday) and a galleried area.  Beautiful.

Interior of one of the Log Cabins at LakeDale Resort on San Juan Island, Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
Interior of one of the Log Cabins at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island

Lodge: The Lodge is a lakefront hotel that offers a variety of rooms with either lake or woodland view.  Complimentary breakfast is offered and free wi-fi.

 

Entrance to The Lodge at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island, Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
Entrance to The Lodge at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island

Airstream: This is my favourite and I wished I’d booked even earlier to get this!  It’s a fully renovated 1978 Excella, overlooking one of the lakes with double bed and linen provided, bath products and a kitchenette, dinette table with extended sofa that converts into a full-size sleeping option, TV/DVD player (no satellite), private bathroom including a shower, toilet, vanity and sink as well as heat and air.  There’s also luggage storage and LED lighting throughout.

Airstream at Lakedale Resort - San Juan Island, Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
Airstream at Lakedale Resort – San Juan Island

Lakedale Resort in the Pacific Northwest – Family friendly

I stayed two nights in my glamping tent at Lakedale and got to see for myself that it’s a great place not only for couples, but also families.  The lakes have beaches around them making swimming safe, the resort puts on a variety of activities for kids: when I was there, they were making tie dye t-shirts.

One can hire bicycles, paddle boards, boats, canoes and kayaks or play table tennis and even fish in the stocked lakes (permit required – available at the General Stores where all campers/glampers can also purchase charcoal for making their fire, pre-prepared meat such as kebabs so all you need to do is cook the meat and all sorts of delicious goodies.

 

Swim, fish, paddleboard or relax - it's up to you. Lakedale Resort in the Pacific Northwest is just perfect. LifeBeyondBorders
Swim, fish, paddleboard or relax – it’s up to you. Lakedale Resort is just perfect!

LakeDale Resort – Notes

  • Glamping tents and in general (unless staying in the Lodge), there is no internet access, unless you go to the General Store on site, where you can sit outside and access internet.
  • Mobile phone access, in general around the whole of the island is very limited, unless you go to Friday or Roche Harbor.  Be prepared to completely switch off and wind down! Very good for ‘going cold turkey’ with technology.

Did I enjoy it?  Yes, very much.  My first Glamping experience was fun, and I would do it again.  Lakedale can organise Events and Weddings.

Have you ever been glamping? It’s becoming quite a trend now. Share your experiences in the comments.

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Where to go glamping in the Pacific Northwest - LakeDale Resort - San Juan Island - LifeBeyondBorders
Where to go glamping in the Pacific Northwest – LakeDale Resort – San Juan Island – LifeBeyondBorders

Glamping in the San Juan Islands – Glamping on Orcas Island with Leanto

Bex Hall
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2
Glamping in the San Juan Islands – Glamping on Orcas Island with Leanto

Originally written in AUG15 – re-written and revised in JAN20

My next stop on the San Juan Islands chain was Orcas Island.  Shaped like an upside down horseshoe, at 57 square miles Orcas Island is bigger than San Juan Island, but less populated.

It’s rural, hilly and stunning, housing the 5,252 acre Moran State Park, making it a beautiful holiday spot and adventurous for hikers, or rent a car from Orcas Island Rental Cars and be assured of clear roads (except for the odd deer, and a lot of tourists in the summer months).

The best way to stay and experience pure nature is by glamping in the San Juan islands.

See my experience of glamping when on San Juan Island itself: Where to go glamping in the Pacific Northwest.

I took the short flight from San Juan Island to Orcas by Kenmore Air again, this time on a wheel plane.  These planes can hold more people – up to 10 – and allow more baggage: 50lbs/23kgs TOTAL per person.  They can be checked into the ‘hold’ and don’t necessarily have to go into the aircraft cabin with you, unlike on a float plane.

Glamping on Orcas Island – Leanto Glamping

**A special thanks to Leanto and San Juan Visitors Bureau who arranged for me to have one night free of charge. As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary services received.**

Moran State Park’s 5,252 acres lends itself out to camping/glamping and with five freshwater lakes, it makes a beautiful spot to stay.  After having had such a great experience glamping with Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island, I decided to experience the best glamping on Orcas island in Moran State Park with Leanto.  I find glamping in the San Juan islands chain is something I could get used to!

Glamping on Orcas island - The Leanto campsite in the Pacific Northwest - LifeBeyondBorders
Leanto Campsite

Leanto Campsite – San Juan Island

Operating in a different manner to Lakedale resort, Leanto have erected glamping sites in Vagabond Lodge, Hood River, Oregon and seven glamp tents in Moran State Park where I stayed.  The difference is, they have erected their canvas cabins in the camp ground – no specific resort with activities laid on for children, etc.  It’s more private as it’s a more ‘wild’ experience.  The tents are very well spread out and as there are so few of them and located away from other tent campers, it made for a very peaceful experience.

My 'glampsite' at Leanto Camps - Moran State Park - Orcas Island. Glamping in the San Juan Islands - LifeBeyondBorders
My ‘glampsite’ at Leanto Camps – Moran State Park – Orcas Island. Glamping in the San Juan Islands

Washrooms are located at the entrance to the tent site, and are shared with other campers.

Glamping in the San Juan Islands – Cost at Leanto

A glamping experience in the San Juan islands – in this case Moran State Park in Orcas Island has a minimum stay of two nights and in June can cost approx. USD$400 for a 12′ x 14′ glamp tent with Queen bed, duvet, chest of drawers, by the lake and fire pit (see photos below).

Glamping in the San Juan Islands – my Leanto experience

The interior of my Leanto Camp in Moran State Park - Orcas Island. Glamping on the San Juan Islands, Pacific Northwest.
The interior of my Leanto Camp in Moran State Park – Orcas Island. Glamping on the San Juan Islands, Pacific Northwest.

I stayed two nights at Leanto within Moran State Park.    I was lucky enough to be given one night for free.   As the location is slightly more remote, you are assured complete silence and darkness once the sun goes down. Sitting outside my tent amongst the trees, reading and lighting the floating candles afforded a great atmosphere; relaxing and at peace.  By 9:30pm I was tucked up in bed, listening to the birds calling, the owls hooting and the wind rustling in the trees.  I drifted off to sleep – to be awoken the next morning with rain pattering on the canvas!

**Note: when I went glamping in the San Juan Islands / Orcas Island there was a ban on open fires because of lack of rain, hence they filled the fire pit with a tin tub and floating candles as an alternative**

That was OK – I spend most of the morning snuggled up in the duvet, listening to the sounds of the forests, reading and feeling excited…after all, I was in the middle of woodland in a double bed and wrapped in a feather duvet!  I didn’t feel the need to jump up immediately and do something with my day…so I let go and relaxed.

Floating candles look great at night in Moran State Park - Orcas Island. Glamping at Leanto - Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
Floating candles look great at night in Moran State Park – Orcas Island. Glamping at Leanto – Pacific Northwest.

View of Cascade Lake from my Leanto Glampsite - Moran State Park, Orcas Island. Glamping in the Pacific Northwest. LifeBeyondBorders
View of Cascade Lake from my Leanto Glampsite – Moran State Park, Orcas Island. Glamping in the Pacific Northwest

Notes about Leanto Glampsite

  • Their campsite are not resort style.  Expect a more ‘camping’ style experience
  • Everything is included; from wet hand wipes, towels, flashlights,  shampoo, conditioner and shower gel, charcoal for the fire (when I stayed, there was a fire ban so I had floating candles instead)
  • They operate campsites in Oregon and Washington State with the glamping season running from May to September.  Check their website for more information

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Best Glamping in the San Juan Islands - Leanto Campsite - Orcas Island - LifeBeyondBorders
Best Glamping in the San Juan Islands – Orcas Island – LifeBeyondBorders

Whale Watching off the San Juan Islands

Bex Hall
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Whale Watching off the San Juan Islands

I couldn’t stay on the San Juan Islands and not go whale watching.   This area of the U.S is abundant in wildlife, especially in the summer.  And the summer also brings along the infamous Orca.

I’d already been won over by the beauty of the San Juan Islands – you can visit the Pelindaba Lavender Farm for example, hence I was delighted when San Juan Island Visitors Bureau told me they’d arranged for me to go whale watching with San Juan Island Whale and Wildlife Tours.  Read about my experience whale watching in the San Juan islands.

Whale Watching – San Juan Islands with San Juan Island Whale and Wildlife Tours

Operating out of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, this tour company was, to me, special because their boat – Natsilane – only holds six passengers, hence making the trip very personal…not full of people crammed together.

Excited to be going whale watching in the San Juan Islands. LifeBeyondBorders
Excited to be going whale watching in the San Juan Islands.

We aim to make this an educational, not just a tourism trip

our Captain for the evening, Alan Niles assured us.  He was right – but not educational in a dull way, far from it.

Whale Watching off the San Juan Islands – Two types of Orcas

As the six of us pulled out of Friday Harbor on the 2.5 hour evening tour at 17:30, Captain Niles was visibly exited as he explained the difference between the two types of ‘killer whales:’

Whale watching on the San Juan Islands - Pacific Northwest - spotting an Orca - LifeBeyondBorders
Whale watching on the San Juan Islands – Pacific Northwest – spotting an Orca.

Whale Watching off the San Juan Islands – the Resident Orcas

Resident Orcas are named because they live specifically in inland or coastal waters. In the Pacific Northwest they are an endangered species with only 81 whales left. They feed on Chinook Salmon which is very calorie rich and hunt in groups as they are highly social animals.  As the salmon are not particularly sensitive to sound, these orcas can successfully communicate to each other when underwater with their unique vocalisations.

Whale Watching  – the Transients Orcas

These are your National Geographic style stealth killers! As their name suggests, they disappear for months, even years at a time and hunt in small groups, usually up to approximately six whales.  These are the seal-eating Orcas, the real ‘killer whales’ if you like (although I dislike using that term if I’m honest – nature is nature after all!)  In contrast to the Residents, because their prey may hear them if vocalisations are used, then these whales rarely breach or splash. They spend long periods of time swimming underwater looking for their prey, occasionally popping their head up to see what’s around – then BOOM!

Orcas hunting seals whilst whale watching on the San Juan islands - LifeBeyondBorders
Orcas hunting seals whilst whale watching on the San Juan islands

Captain Niles was particularly excited on our trip.  Having already been out once that day, his adrenaline was still rushing as he told us that Transients were in the area, and lots of blood and guts had occurred with seals – let’s get back out there!  And so we did…me with mixed feelings, but assuring myself that this is nature after all.

Seal toast? Whale watching off the San Juan Islands - LifeBeyondBorders
Seal toast? Whale watching off the San Juan Islands

Popping head up for a look - where are the seals? Whale Watching off San Juan Island - LifeBeyondBorders
Popping head up for a look – where are the seals? Whale Watching off San Juan Island

We ended up seeing so much activity that evening, we couldn’t help staying out past 2.5 hours – more like three.  This meant we ended up seeing the sun set – and yes, we saw stealth in action:

  • seals sleeping
  • whales approaching
  • seals getting worried
  • seal enters water
  • seal is toast

(Remember, this is nature)

Popping head up to have a look around - whale watching off San Juan Island at sunset - LifeBeyondBorders
Popping head up to have a look around – whale watching off San Juan Island at sunset

Whale Watching San Juan Islands Facts

  • The cost of a 2.5 hour whale watching tour with San Juan Island Whale and Wildlife tour is $105 for adults, $85 for Children aged 4-12 years and infants = free.  This is excluding tax.
  • Bring a waterproof jacket, wear trousers and a jumper as it does get chilly (as you can imagine!), even in the summer.
  • San Juan Island Whale and Wildlife Tours give a lovely list of recommendations here on how you can help the whales in your daily life. I suggest reading it.

**My thanks to San Juan Islands Whale and Wildlife Tours and Captain Alan Niles for his permission to use some of his amazing shots of the evening. Also, thanks to Katie Flynn, office staff of San Juan Island Whale Watching Tour. Friendly, helpful and informative, she even offered me a ride back to my accommodation – not before we’d had a drink and fish and chips in the pub.**

**This amazing opportunity was arranged for me through the San Juan Island Visitors Bureau and was offered free of charge.  All opinions are my own.**

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San Juan Islands Whale Watching - PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
San Juan Islands Whale Watching – PNW – LifeBeyondBorders

Top Things to do in the San Juan Islands – USA

Bex Hall
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Top Things to do in the San Juan Islands – USA

If you’re visiting Seattle and are in need of some nature (not that Seattle doesn’t have wonderful surrounds), take a trip using Kenmore Air out to the San Juan Islands – the archipelago of islands just North West of Seattle in the Salish Sea.

Here I show you the top things to do in the San Juan Islands.

**I was hosted in the San Juan islands – all opinions remain my own**

Top Things to do in the San Juan Islands – San Juan island

Friday Harbor is the County Seat of the San Juan Islands and has a year round population of approximately 8,000.  It’s a national park with over 250 species of wild birds including eagles and the only national historical park on the whole of the island chain with coastal hiking paths, I was sure San Juan Island would offer a lot.

Port of Friday Harbor, San Juan Island - PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
Port of Friday Harbor, San Juan Island

Popeye the Seal on San Juan Island

Granite statue of Popeye the Seal on Friday Harbor, San Juan Island in the PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
Granite statue of Popeye the Seal on Friday Harbor, San Juan Island

Popeye one-eyed seal that has been a frequent visitor to Friday Harbor Marina since 1995. In her honour, a granite statue has been erected in Fairweather Park, just opposite the main entrance to the dock.

She usually shows up when Friday Harbor Seafood Market opens, I guess hoping for fish.  Alas I didn’t see her that day (the seafood market was closed)

Top Things to do in the San Juan islands – U.S. and England at war, over a pig??

Pressures had been building between Britain and the U.S. over possession of the San Juan Island group since 1846 when the Treaty of Oregon left ownership unclear.
In 1859 an American soldier shot a pig belonging to the British on land belonging to the British on the island – thus came the “Pig War” crisis, at the height of which more than 500 U.S. soldiers and three British warships were nose to nose on the island’s southern shore, 10 miles from Victoria, B.C.,iCanada  Fortunately, officials on both sides quickly restored calm and the nations agreed to a joint military occupation of the island until the boundary could be decided.

They remained in their respective ‘camps’ (English and American) on different sides of the island (English: North on the shores of Garrison Bay and American: South end of the island) and lived in peace for 12 years until Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany, as arbitrator, awarded the islands to the U.S.

Visiting both Camps on San Juan island are quite interesting.

American Camp

The bleak prairie of American Camp on San Juan Island, PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
The bleak prairie of American Camp – south end of San Juan Island

It’s possible to hike here and take a look at the Visitors Centre. But after having seen where the English had their camp, it was easy to see why the Americans were pretty fed up.

Barren, vast prairie on large stretches of farmland, offering no shelter from the elements, -life must have been tough.

American Camp - San Juan Island - PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
American Camp – south end of San Juan Island

English Camp

English Camp, Garrison Bay, San Juan Island PNW - LifeBeyondBorders
English Camp, Garrison Bay, San Juan Island

In contract, formal gardens, lush woodland, a cemetery and a Visitor’s Centre with a variety of hikes on offer (from easy to strenuous), I fell in love with this place in an instant.

View from English Camp, Garrison Bay, San Juan Island, PNW. LifeBeyondBorders
View from English Camp, Garrison Bay, San Juan Island

Various activities take place here:
  • Every Saturday from June to August, park rangers and volunteers re-create some of the skills of civilian and military life back then
  • One weekend in July, a re-enactment of what life was like on the camp takes place

More things to do in the San Juan islands

  • Whale watching is a very popular pastime. I won’t say too much about it here as you can read more from my Whale Watching Off San Juan Island article.
  • The Pelindaba Lavender Farm was one of my favourite places to visit.  Lavender as far as the eye could see – purple everywhere. It’s possible to see this beautiful flower growing and purchase many products; from Lavender Honey to house cleaning and pet products.   I particularly loved using my Lavender Room and Pillow spray.  I never realised the healing effects of such a product.

Where to stay on the San Juan islands

  • Whilst there are any number of B&B options, as you’re out in nature, glamping is very popular in the San Juan islands and something I’d highly recommend you do.  My favourites: Leanto on Orcas island – a superb location in the woods for all the hikes you may want to take around Orcas island. 
  • Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island is a dedicated resort for glamping and also cabins with large shower facilities and also hosts weddings.  Less rustic – think ‘Dirty Dancing’ style but just as enjoyable.

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Things to do in the San Juan Islands - LifeBeyondBorders

Best Food Tour London – Eating London Food Tour of the East End

Bex Hall
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10
Best Food Tour London – Eating London Food Tour of the East End

Who doesn’t enjoy sampling the local food of a country or town they’re visiting?  I’ve written about my luxury High Tea London experience at The Berkeley Hotel and as my followers will know, I’m from the UK so don’t really think of sampling ‘local cuisine.’

I tried the Paris Food Tour by Eating Europe so when the Eating London Food Tour company offered a chance to sample the delights of the East End, I thought ‘Why not?”

**Disclosure: Despite any complimentary services received, all thoughts and opinions remain my own**

Best Food Tour in London by Eating London Food Tour

The particular tour I took was THE EAST END OF LONDON FOOD TOUR.  They also offer Twilight Soho Food Tours as well as tours in European countries and cities such as Italy, Amsterdam and Prague.  I chose the Eating London East End Food Tour because the brochure description told me I would sample typically British delights such as fish and chips, bread and butter pudding, bread and bacon sarnie (sandwich) and the chance to try ale and cider in a typical East End pub with a resident cat…of course, if I was in any doubt about taking this particular tour, the chance to see a cat swung it for me.

Old Spitalfields Market - starting point for our Eating London EastEnd Food Tour. Best London Food Tour
Old Spitalfields Market – starting point for our Eating London EastEnd Food Tour. Best London Food Tour

Eating London Food Tour – Best Food Tour, a history lesson too

Not only do Eating London Food Tour’s offer you the chance to sample local cuisine, but it’s an excellent opportunity to learn more about the area – more than you would if you were a tourist; in the East End tour this meant seeing Georgian style mansions built for the French silk-trade, the Jewish centre (with the most famous bagel shop this side of the Atlantic), an old building used for location filming of films such as ‘Suffragette’ and oh, the Street Art!

Spitalfields street art on display as seen on my Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Spitalfields street art on display as seen on my Eating London Food Tour

Come with me as I reminisce and share with you my experience:

Eating London Food Tour – The East End of London

Our small group of six people met our tour guide – Madi – just inside the famous Spitalfields Market, an old hospital in 12th Century London and an area of extreme poverty atypical of Victorian London,  but after an influx of Irish, French and Bangladeshi communities in the 17th Century and, more recently significant regentrification, it’s now a thriving community of eclectic independent shops, food outlets and venues for events  In fact, to be honest, to my mind the area’s gone too much the other way and with the influx of hipsters and artists and new digital businesses, has out priced the area.  Anyway, I digress: After the introductions and comments about how lucky we were with the weather (indeed, for a November morning, although cold, bright sunlight welcomed us), we were off on our way to our first stop.

St. John’s Bread & Wine

St John's Bread & Wine - Eating London Food Tour. Great for a bacon sarnie. LifeBeyondBorders
St John’s Bread & Wine – Eating London Food Tour. Great for a bacon sarnie

Housed in a former bank, our little group settled into a table and sampled a real bacon sandwich with homemade bread.  What’s so special about the bacon used in Fergus Henderson’s acclaimed restaurant is that the whole animal is used and for the bacon, the rare Gloucester Old Spot pig.
To top it off, even their ketchup is homemade!  Their secret ingredient that gives it a fruity tang?  Well, you’ll just have to go on a tour to find out!
A great place for a bacon sarnie or a full fry up, any time of the day.

The English Restaurant

Bread and Butter Pudding at the English Restaurant - Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Bread and Butter Pudding at the English Restaurant – Eating London Food Tour

After that taster of a savoury, it was time to sweeten our palette with a dessert.  What better place than at the oldest house in Spitalfields for some Bread and Butter pudding with homemade custard?  Once a house, then a bakery, then nut roasting house and now a restaurant using only locally sourced products, this Grade 2 listed building (meaning no significant changes to its interior and exterior can be made) looks like it’s straight out of a Dickens’ novel.  Perhaps it inspired Oliver Twist – who knows? And the bread and butter pudding?  Oh yum!

Androuet Cheese Room – Eating London Food Tour

Cheese at the Androuet Cheese Room - Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyodBorders
Stilton and Cheddar Cheese at the Androuet Cheese Room – Eating London Food Tour

No time for us to get too comfy by the fireplace though…it was on to our next destination.  After having been treated to small samples of savoury and dessert, it was now time to try some typically British cheese.  The Androuet Cheese Room is run by two brothers; master cheese mongers and cheese maturing experts.  Admittedly their shop stocks over 700 varieties of English and European cheeses and we were blessed with the opportunity to try mature cheddar and stilton on homemade crackers.  With a cafe at the rear of the building, if you’re a cheese freak, this is the place for you!

East End Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
East End Eating London Food Tour

By this time, despite the great portion sizes i.e.: not too big, I was getting quite full.  But I had no time to be full, because onwards to:

Poppies Fish ‘n’ Chips

Poppies Award-Winning Fish 'n' Chips: chic of dishes, the famous newspaper wrapping and our cod 'n'chips with mushy peas to taste . Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Poppies Award-Winning Fish ‘n’ Chips: chic of dishes, the famous newspaper wrapping and our cod ‘n’chips with mushy peas to taste

What traditional British Food Tour would be complete without visiting a ‘proper’ fish ‘n’ chips shop?   Although I say ‘traditional’, but did you know it was actually the Portuguese that introduced Britain to hot batter in the 1860s, and the Belgians that introduced the chip to Britain.
Since opening in 1952, Poppies has won numerous awards such as the National Fish and Chips Award in 2014.  Her chippy shops re-create the ambiance of a 1940s seaside town with war memorabilia on the walls, old tunes from the jukebox.  It’s a sheer pleasure to be inside.
And not only that; we sampled our cod, chips and mushy peas the traditional way, out of newspaper.  Don’t get all health and safety conscious on me now; the shop has gone to considerable expense to re-create the newspaper so that it doesn’t rub off on the food and it health and safety conscious.   What a great experience!

By this time, you’re just about ready to roll down the streets of the East End of London, and the Eating London Food Tour company knows this, that’s why they schedule in a stop at a traditional pub next:

The Pride of Spitalfields

Pride of Spitalfields where we tried ale and cider. Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Pride of Spitalfields where we tried ale and cider.

A quintessentially British pub and pretty much unchanged; roaring fire, floral carpets, old ale pumps, wooden bar, the Pride of Spitalfields can be found down a quiet cobblestoned street and offers real ale and cider as well as your regular pub drinks.  We tried the Firestarter Ale – a non-carbonated, pasteurised and filtered real ale and then a 90% proof cider.  Yes!  This fermented apple juice was pretty strong and won the National Cider Award in 2012.
With Lenny the Pub Cat purring around my ankles and someone opening the piano to have a little trill of an East End song, it wasn’t time to get too comfy though as onto our next food stop!

Lenny the Spitalfields Pub cat. Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Lenny the Spitalfields Pub cat

Aladdin Curry House on Brick Lane

Brick Lane - East London - 'Curry Mile' - Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Brick Lane – East London – ‘Curry Mile’

Brick Lane is a very popular area of East London.  Once known as Whitechapel Lane, in the 17th Century it saw swathes of immigration from the Bangladeshi community and nowadays has been regentrified with markets, the Old Truman Brewery and much street art, but with over 50 curry houses to choose from, our mission was to come to try a curry along Curry Mile.
Aladdin offered us that opportunity and we were given three dishes to sample:

  • Vegetable Bengali
  • Garlic Chicken Tikka Masala (my favourite)
  • Lamb Bhuhan: Lamb, Cucumber and Tomato.  The hottest dish.

Curries we tried on our Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Curries we tried on our Eating London Food Tour

By this time our tour was approaching the three hour mark so I really started digging into the Tikka Masala, but Madi warned me we had another two stops yet!

Beigel Jewish Bakery

Beigel Bakery with beef and gherkin savoury beigels. Not my favourite, but interesting. Eating London Food Tour. LifeBeyondBorders
Beigel Bakery with beef and gherkin savoury beigels. Not my favourite, but interesting

What I love about the East End of London is its diversity.  Brick Lane for its curry houses, yet just down the same street, this Jewish Beigel house (yes, ‘Beigel’ is spelt correctly…it’s the Jewish way).  The owner – Sammy – came from Israel nearly 50 years ago and has been baking savoury beigel’s ever since.  The salted beef is prepared the Jewish way, by boiling it and this 24/7 shop serves the beigel’s with a gherkin and lots of mustard.  In fact, so popular this place was, we were warned of the queues, and people were, indeed queuing out of the door!  Our food tour meant that Madi popped inside to get us all a sample.
I’ll be honest, it wasn’t my favourite dish as I am not a gherkin fan – but the history of the place was interesting.

Pizza East

Salted caramalized tart - my favourite dessert on the Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
Salted caramalized tart – my favourite dessert

And finally onto our last stop on our Eating London Tour – not to eat pizza as the heading might have you believe, but to have a sample of the best salted caramelised tart you can imagine!  Pizza East is described as being one of the ‘hippest restaurants in London’ and ‘shabby chic environment’.  The interior was pretty cool, I have to admit, and so was the tart!

And so on full stomaches, we bid each other all farewell.

Eating London Food Tour – some tips:

  • Wear flat shoes/trainers.  The tour takes a total of about 4 hours
  • The East London Eating Tour departs every Monday to Saturday at 10:00, 10:45 and 11:30 from Spitalfields Market – about a 5 minute walk from Liverpool Street Station
  • I suggest eating a piece of fruit before you go on the tour just to sustain you – but not a huge breakfast
  • Take a bottle of water – although our guide gave us a bottle too
  • The tour is great as it gives you small samples of each dish
  • It’s perfectly OK to not like a dish and feed back as to why.  In fact, Eating Food Tour London encourage feedback
  • If you have any dietary requests i.e.: diabetic, Gluten free, be sure to give the food tour company at least 48 hours notice so they can accommodate you
  • Cost: Adult: £69  Adolescent (13-17 years): £54  Child (4-12 years): £42.  Includes all food and a Food Lover’s Guide to London printed guide.
  • Poppies Fish ‘n’ Chips, Beigel Bakery and Pizza East are featured in Time Out London’s Top 100 Things to Eat in the Capital
  • My favourite? Would have to be Poppies Fish ‘n’ Chips, the pub (merely for the cat) and the Salted Caramalized Tart at the end.

Have you been on a food tour in London?  What did you think?  I must admit, I learnt a lot about the food in my home country, and I’m glad I went on the Eating Food Tour of the East End of London.

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The Best Food Tour in London - East End Eating London Food Tour - LifeBeyondBorders
The Best Food Tour in London – East End Eating London Food Tour

 

Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia (and surrounds) in 48 hours

Bex Hall
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8
Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia (and surrounds) in 48 hours

Tbilisi wasn’t even supposed to be on my itinerary for visiting the Caucasus, pretty much landlocked country of Georgia – but I’m so glad it was added by the Georgian National Tourism Administration – who hosted me.

**There will be adverts through the post. If you choose to book, – there will be no extra charge to you**

It was a flying visit as I was due to explore a different part of Georgia – so what can you see and do in Tbilisi and surrounds with just 48 hours? Quite a lot it turns out, especially with the help of InterGeorgia Travel, my guide throughout.  Let’s take a look at things to do in Tbilisi and surrounds in 48 hours.

Tbilisi – the capital of Georgia. A bit of history.

Tbilisi never used to be the capital. That honour went to Mtskheta, a mere 12 miles north. ‘Tbili’ in the first part of the name of Tbilisi means ‘warm’ and indeed, there are hot springs here that can be seen in the Old Town – we’ll get to them.
The fable tells us that the King of Georgia – King Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting with falcon – which then spied a pheasant and chased it.  The King also gave chase on his horse, not finding either bird.  He eventually found them ‘cooking’ in a bubbling spring in the ground.  Yes, it’s sad that both birds died but the story goes that the King realised its importance for natural resources, hence decided to build a city here.

Things to do in Tbilisi plus day trips around Georgia - LifeBeyondBorders
Things to do in Tbilisi plus day trips around Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

Tblisi, therefore, is 1500 years old and whilst the fable is a good one to tell, my guide tells me it’s probably because, being surrounded by mountains and the fact that the country is the crossroads of Europe and Asia and its proximity to the lucrative Silk Road, it’s always been a source of interest to surrounding foreign powers – hence to base the capital geographically in a place that is hard to reach made sense.

Nowadays it’s overwhelmingly Eastern Orthodox Christian in religion, and this is visible in the number of churches around Tbilisi and surrounds, but coincides with also being home to people of multiple cultural, ethnic and religious backgrounds – most likely due to its strategic geographical location.

Georgia Travel - Things to to in Tbilisi plus Day Trip Ideas - LifeBeyondBorders
Georgia Travel – Things to to in Tbilisi plus Day Trip Ideas – LifeBeyondBorders

Things to see and do in Tbilisi, Georgia

A city tour of 5 or 6 hours is great to see the highlights of the city and understand its eclectic past.

Bridge of Peace

Made of steel and glass – stretching 150 meters (490 ft) over the River Kura that winds its way through the city, the pedestrianised Bridge of Peace opened in 2010 to connect the Old and New parts of the city.  It’s a beautiful sight at night as 90 minutes before sunset, over 1000 LED lights are switched on, giving it an air of romance.

Trivia: It cause some controversy between politicians, urban planners and architects as they felt it was too ‘new’ looking and would not contrast well with the old architecture.  And indeed, sometimes Tbilisi – and Georgia – has this odd juxtaposition of beautiful faded vintage mixed in with the new glass buildings and several grey, dour tower blocks thrown in for good measure as a hang over from the Russian occupation days.

It is also nicknamed ‘Always Ultra’ after the female sanitary pad as many compare the shape of the bridge to this.  What do you think?

bridge of peace tbilisi photo
Bridge of Peace – Tbilisi, Georgia. Image by Falco

Cable Car to Mother Georgia Statue, the Narikala Fortress and views of the National Botanical Gardens

Cable Car - Tbilisi - Georgia - LifeBeyondBorders
Cable Car – Tbilisi – Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

After walking across the Bridge of Peace, pay a mere 6 Lari (USD$2, GBP£1.60) to travel by cable car for about 10 minutes up to Mother Georgia Statue (Kartlis Deda) – worth it as the walk is a killer (best walk down!)

Mother Georgia stands atop a column and is the symbol of Georgia: holding a bowl of wine in her left hand as a show of friendship to those who come in peace, and a sword in her right for her enemies.  Very powerful message for this landlocked country.

Here you’ll also find the Narikala 4th Century Fortress which has two walled sections and looks over the sulphur bath area of the Old Town whilst the National Botanical Gardens, also viewed from the top of the cable car drop off point, has a research centre which has helped bring it back to life after a period of decline.

Old Town

Things to fo in Tbilisi, Georgia - The Old Town - LifeBeyondBorders
Old Town Tbilisi – Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

Picturesque narrow streets with small houses adorned with colourful wooden balconies, the Old Town really is an example of vintage boutique wonder.  Smaller hotels have sprung up here and it’s an ethnic melting pot with Orthodox Churches next to Synagogues and Mosques.

Remember the story of the King’s falcon and pheasant?  The Abanotubani district in the Old Town is where the Hot Springs are – now with 5 or 6 different spa baths offering services with mixed spas (30 Lari / USD$10 / GBP£8) or a private spa for 100 Lari (USD$34 / GBP£26).  There’s a wonderful place to walk here too – across a lovelock bridge with waterfalls and small river that feeds the spa.  Here you’ll see restored old houses with the ubiquitous wooden balconies.

Things to see and do in Tbilisi, Georgia: surrounds

Zhinvali Dam and reservoir

Zhinvali Dam and Reservoir - Georgia - LifeBeyondBorders
Zhinvali Dam and Reservoir – Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

An hour’s drive out of Tbilisi and you’re surrounded by the Lesser Caucasus’ and extreme natural beauty.  Heading towards the ‘old military road’ you’ll drive past a massive reservoir and dam system – Zhinvali. It’s on the Aragvi River and the dam, built in 1986, in turn formed the Reservoir.

More importantly, it’s on the way to:

Ananuri Monastery Complex

Ananuri Monastery Complex photo
Photo by shankar s.

Ananuri used to be a castle complex ruled by the Dukes of Ananuri since the 13th Century and was the scene of many battles.  It’s also acted as a shelter during many of the Soviet invasions that have taken place over time.

It’s 45 miles / 72km from Tbilisi and has the fortuitous position to overlook the Aragvi River.

It’s chequered past has left the castle in ruins, but the Church of the Virgin inside the complex – prominent for its tall square tower has the graves of some of the Dukes of Aragvi.  It’s a fantastic place to visit for the views alone.

TIP: bring a scarf and a wrap: one for your head and one to wrap around your trousers if you’re a female because you won’t be admitted otherwise.  They do have ones in a basket at the entrance, but who knows who else has wrapped their hair in it?!

Things to do in Tbilisi Georgia - LifeBeyondBorders
Things to do in Tbilisi Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia: Gudauri Ski Resort

Gudauri Ski Resort photo
Photo by shankar s.

Further along the old military road, as it’s known, about 2hrs 15 mins and 75 miles north from Tbilisi –  quite near the Russian border, lies the ski resort of Gudauri.
I didn’t get to go skiing as snow starts to cover the 7,200ft elevation from late November, yet the views over this mountain range are spectacular – and the air so crisp and clear.

It’s a new resort, only opened in 1989 and in 2023 – will host the World Championships.  Expect to find hotels and apres ski – not on the scale of Swiss resorts, but even so – at a fraction of the cost you get to experience a different ski experience in a different culture.

Why not combine it with a Tbilisi city break?

Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia: Gergeti Trinity Church – Tbilisi and surrounds

Holy Trinity Church of Gergeti - Georgia - LifeBeyondBorders
Holy Trinity Church of Gergeti – Georgia – LifeBeyondBorders

One of the most awe inspiring places for me to visit was the Holy Trinity Church of Gergeti – situated at an elevation of 7120 ft / 2170 m under Mount Kazbek and COMPLETELY open to the elements.  Despite the interior being humbling (and once again ladies, wrap around skirts to cover trousered legs and head scarfs are required and provided at the entrance) – the scenery was phenomenal, nestled as it is with the backdrops of the mountains.

It’s a popular place to trek to from the nearby town of Gergeti and as late as December 2018, a paved road was constructed, making driving there much easier.

The Old Capital of Mtskheta

This is one of the oldest cities in Georgia and the old capital – a  mere 12 miles/20km north of Tbilisi. With its many significant monuments, in 1994 the town was established as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Of these is:

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

In the centre of Mkskheta, this is the second largest Orthodox church in Georgia and is known as the burial place of Christ’s mantle – the robes he was buried in with a long protracted story where you can read more here. It’s stunning inside and you don’t need to be religious to appreciate its splendour.  Furthermore, the polyphonic singing of the choir brings tears to the eyes.

Practical advice – Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia

There are plenty of places within Europe and the UK that fly to Tbilisi, including cheap airlines such as Wizz from Stansted.

Check out my recomended anti-theft travel items – great for where ever you travel to.

My Best Carry On backpack – Hynes Eagle is great for your short break to Tbilisi, Georgia.

I was hosted at the Iota Hotel in Tbilisi. Get great hotel deals here:


Find the best deal with HotelsCombined.com

Have you been to Tbilisi or Georgia?  What was your favourite part? Did you love it as much as I did?

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Tbilisi - Things to do in Georgia's Capital plus Day Trips - LifeBeyondBorders

Athens to Nafplio Day Trip

Bex Hall
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2
Athens to Nafplio Day Trip

Why Nafplio makes a good day trip from Athens

If you’ve only a short time in Greece, you must do an Athens to Nafplio day trip. Located 137.2km from the capital in the Peloponesse, it can take approx. 1hr 50 mins via very good toll roads by driving.

If you take the bus from KTEL Kifissos Bus station in Athens, roughly every hour or 1.5 hrs – the journey takes about two or two and a half hours.

The journey is beautiful – taking you over the famous Corinth Canal that links the Gulf of Corinth (where many dolphins come and swim in the summer) to the Saronic Gulf and its islands in the Aegean sea, past the town of Ancient Corinth.

Corinth Canal to the Peloponnese in Greece - LifeBeyondBorders
Corinth Canal

Athens to Nafplio Day Trip  – some history of Nafplio

Did you know Athens wasn’t always the capital of Greece?  Nafplio was the first capital of the new Greek state when it was formed,  from 1823 – 1834. Greek mythology tells us that Nafplios, the son of Poseidon – God of the Sea, founded the town.

What to do in Nafplio, Greece

Once there, meander around the many lanes, stroll along the seaside taking in the view of the small Venetian fort on the rock island of Agioi Theodoroi, or why not climb up the 999 steps carved into the hillside to Palamidi Castle, rising 216m above sea level?

Take a romantic stroll down Nafplio's many alleys - Athens to Nafplio Day Trip, Greece - LifeBeyondBorders
Take a romantic stroll down Nafplio’s many alleys

Bourtzi, the small Venetian fort on Agioi Theodoroi island - Nafplio. Athens to Nafplio Day Trip - LifeBeyondBorders
Bourtzi, the small Venetian fort on Agioi Theodoroi island – Nafplio

Palamidi Castle, Nafplio. Athens to Nafplio Day Trip, Greece. LifeBeyondBorders
Palamidi Castle, Nafplio

All in all, I’d recommend a visit to Nafplio as a great day trip from Athens – but treat yourself and stay overnight to allow yourself time to soak up the atmosphere and away from the hustle and bustle of large city life in Athens.

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Nafplio Greece - Perfect Day Trip From Athens
Nafplio Greece – Perfect Day Trip From Athens

Tips for combatting loneliness in a foreign country

Bex Hall
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0
Tips for combatting loneliness in a foreign country

You only need to head to Instagram, your Facebook feed or Twitter to see pictures and stories of how wonderful life is on the ‘other side of the fence’ – or globe in this case.
‘Travel!’ everyone seems to be telling you – it screams at you from all directions; that picture of happy couples gazing at scenic lakes to group trips to various European destinations. Even solo travellers encouraging you to go it alone.

And you should – really, you should. I am a solo traveller and do enjoy travelling alone: I meet more people alone than if I were with someone. People tend to want to take me under their wing; offer me food, invite me into their family environment.
But being realistic, I’m not going to sing its praises all the time. Travelling, or even spending time abroad on a work assignment, for example, can get lonely. There are challenges to be faced for expats. It can’t always be Instagram pictures of dreamy sunsets and waterfalls. And you don’t even need to be alone to feel lonely; maybe your partner has been posted abroad on an expat assignment and you’re joining him/her.
You miss the familiarity of knowing the layout of your home town, your daily routines such as going for coffee at the corner café, seeing the same faces there – even if you don’t necessarily interact, just knowing your way around helps.

How to Beat Loneliness in a Foreign Country
How to Beat Loneliness in a Foreign Country

You are excited on the one hand about experiencing all a new culture has to offer, you’ve read all the books on cultural differences and brushed up on your language skills, but still – when you’re there, there is this feeling of loneliness when you cannot understand what’s going on around you, when chatter just sounds like noise.

So how do we cope when (not if) loneliness strikes when we’re in a foreign country; when we crave our favourite snack or to just sit down and talk to someone who understands our plight – who may have gone / is going through similar circumstances?

Note: This is a sponsored post with Aetna International – providers of health insurance to expats globally and International Citizens.

Tips for combatting loneliness in a foreign country – Facebook Groups

I mentioned social media before, not necessarily in a positive way. However, if used responsibly, media such as Facebook can be really useful for combatting loneliness, at least in the context of meeting people.
Depending on how long you’re staying in a place, there’s bound to be a Facebook group that will appeal. For example: Digital Nomads – great for remote workers who might be staying short to medium term and wish to meet like-minded people to co-work with. Or Expat groups – often centred around people new in the city / country from all walks of life and want to meet others who’re also new.

Often events are organised or small group activities, so these can be a really useful way to combat loneliness in a foreign country – to meet people who speak your own language. There’s no shame in meeting up with fellow expats or digital nomads. Whilst it’s noble to try to assimilate and understand the culture and language, it’s OK to also want a bit of your homeland with you too from time to time.

Aetna International have produced an interesting Health and Wellness survey that takes a look at what wellness means with case studies of up to 32 families who live abroad, and the results are quite interesting. They look at education, health, quality of life overall and quality of family life to personal security – covering a range of topics for anyone relocating abroad.

Their survey covers the most common expat problems:

  • Missing friends and family
  • I don’t like being financially dependent on my partner
  • Worried about future finances
  • I still need to adjust to the work environment
  • No professional network
  • Reduction in personal income
  • Trouble making friends
  • Culture shock
  • Tired of expat life
  • Language barrier
  • My partner/family aren’t happy here
  • Bad for psychological/mental health

Source.

Tips to Combat Loneliness Abroad
Tips to Combat Loneliness Abroad

Tips for combatting loneliness abroad – Eating well

Whether in a country for a short or long time, it can initially be hard to know where to find good quality food, especially as you don’t know your way around.
Healthy eating is vital for maintaining a positive mind and body, and actually links in well with our mental health/feelings of loneliness.

In Greece, for example, it’s actually very easy to eat well as the Mediterranean diet is reputed to be the healthiest in the world (it’s all the olive oil, fish, vegetables and grains). You don’t need to go far to find a taverna in a local neighbourhood, whether you’re in a city, the islands or the mainland. Not only that, usually once a week in various neighbourhoods you’ll find a laiki or farmer’s market. Here you can buy any manner of fresh fruits, vegetables, olives, honey, oil and basically kit out your house as well with paraphernalia such as kitchen items, rugs for the floor, even underwear!

Greek Laiki Olives - great local food found in local markets - LifeBeyondBorders
Greek Laiki Olives

It’s an interesting place to just wander around too; get a feel for the local life of the community. And it’s hard to feel lonely in a foreign country when you’re surrounded by daily hustle and bustle. As well as buying local healthy produce, you can feel a part of the community.

Aetna International’s survey lists the top 5 healthiest regional diets worldwide:

  • Mediterranean
  • Japanese
  • Nordic
  • West African
  • French

Source

Climate

Weather and climate is a defining factor in the everyday lives of expat families. Although few say that it was a primary reason for their move or choice of new country, feedback on everyday life suggests weather and climate impact life in many ways. Hotter [humid] climates can present challenges by discouraging everyday activities like walking to work, strolling round shops or markets or running outside. Not being able to stay outside for too long at certain times of the day (or in some cases at any time of day) can impact on fitness levels for people who prefer the outdoors to going to a gym.

 Source

This might not seem like a factor in causing loneliness in a foreign country, it can if you think about colder climates though, where the weather seems to keep everyone indoors, preventing that ‘happy go lucky’ outdoor café culture where one can sit nursing a coffee for hours, as in the case of Greece. Or even if it’s too hot to spend time outdoors, removing the potential to meet people.

We can’t control the climate, but if we’re in a fortunate position to choose where we want to go abroad – long or short-term – and we know that climate is a deciding factor, then choose a climate that will suit you.

According to Aetna International, the top 5 best climates for expats are:

  1. Ecuador
  2. Colombia
  3. Mexico
  4. Panama
  5. Spain

Source

I love Greece’s climate. It’s rare to see rain and when you do, it’s pretty much a cloud burst and then over with – unlike the long grey days I was used to in the UK. I personally find weather really affects me. I might not be actually lonely, but grey skies over a prolonged period affects me and brings on an element of depression, making me want to ‘hibernate’ with the knock on effect of me not socializing as much – hence potentially ending up lonely. Comparatively, even if I am alone in a sunny country, I am compelled to want to go outside more. I’m greeted in the street – that ever so tiny interaction is enough to start combatting loneliness in a foreign country for me.

There are many reasons for travelling abroad – and it’s ok to feel nervous and unsure. It doesn’t always have to be Instagramable moments and the ‘Wow!’ factor.

Make use of social media groups, link up with other people in a similar situation and interact as much or as little as you like. This, combined with eating well and preparing yourself as much as possible before an expat assignment can all help with helping to combat loneliness abroad.

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Tips on how to Combat Loneliness Abroad

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