Leros – Dodecanese


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As part of my research for the Rough Guide to the Greek Islands, one of the islands I visited in the Dodecanese chain was Leros.

It takes about eleven hours to reach Leros by ferry from the Athens port of Piraeus, there are roughly 3 weekly, depending on the season.  But you can also fly here as there’s a tiny airport – there is a daily flight from Athens and three weekly from Kos & Rhodes.

I was hosted by the gorgeous Nefeli Hotel in Krithoni, a few minutes drive from the port of Ayia Marina (where catamarans and smaller ferries arrive – I was coming from Patmos.  Met by the Hotel Manager Eva, she drove me to my place of rest.  During my four night stay I was so welcomed by Eva and her team of staff, treated like a long lost friend (personal service at its best) and it was a lovely, calming place to come back to after a day’s research.
You can look at prices and unbiased reviews for the Nefeli Hotel here.  Please note; I will receive a small amount of commission if you book, at no cost to you – and it helps keep my site running.

Nefeli Hotels gorgeous grounds
Nefeli Hotels gorgeous grounds

Highlights include:

  • Kasto (castle). 

Overlooking the whole island, wandering around the grounds of this place I was sure I could hear the whispers of past battles raging – or maybe that was the sea lapping below.

Gorgeous castle grounds
Gorgeous castle grounds
  • View Cafe/Bar (no webpage or Facebook I’m afraid – yet).

Just before the castle there are six disused windmills.  A month ago, one of them was been turned into a cafe/bar with a virtual 360 degree view of the island from its terraced garden seating.  Food is simple, delicious and well worth it for the view (hence the title).

View cafe/bar
View cafe/bar
  • Italian architecture – everywhere.

The Italian legacy is alive here in a majority of the buildings one sees, whether dis-used and crumbling, or re-vamped into an art deco hotel, for example. I personally love the architecture and colours, etc.

Typical Lerian street
Typical Lerian street

These are just a few small highlights.  I’d really recommend Leros as an island to visit, where the tourists aren’t out in hordes and have the same idea as you: to come and relax, enjoy the scenery and Greek hospitality.

All opinions expressed here are my own.


    • You’d love the diverseness of the Greek isle if you ever came here Carmen. Whenever I get asked ‘Which one is your favourite?” I truly cannot answer as they differ so much (in a good way).

    • Yes, there aren’t a ton of people here, or a least English speaking tourists. It’s common with the French and Scandinavians. It is a really beautiful place and with a small airport with a once a day flight from Athens, accessible enough without being overrun


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