Followers of my site will know that we recently celebrated one year of the creation of Travel Bloggers Greece – and we did so during a relaxing weekend at Thermae Sylla Spa hotel in Evia, Greece, listed as one of the top 10 spas in the world. I wrote about it here. The treatments on offer at the Spa are either for Wellness and Relaxation, or Therapeutic. The treatment I decided to have whilst there was a Total Mud Therapy.
Total Mud Therapy
It’s a slightly strange treatment and is unique only to Greece – meaning you’ll not find another treatment like it. The mud is imported from Italy and is stored for 6 months where the thermal waters wash over it and infuse the mud with their therapeutic qualities. As the quality of the thermal waters is within the top 3 in the world, you can imagine how soft the mud feels. The treatment itself is good for the back, neck and skin – and trust me, by the time I’d finished, my skin did look different – it was glowing.
As the hotel states:
…this treatment is ideal to reduce rheumatic and arthritic pain. It alleviates aches, improves mobility and improves circulation in joints and muscles. The mineral-rich mud also boosts beauty and detoxifies. Source.
Total Mud Therapy at Thermae Sylla Spa
The mud is pumped from the pipe onto the plastic sheet that covers the bed, and you lie in it, literally. You are naked except for some disposable pants, and your hair is in a cap.
The therapist encases you – mummy like – in the mud and plastic sheet, turns down the lights and music and leave you for about twenty minutes to wallow in the warmth.
At first I felt a little like a pig, you know – wallowing in the warm mud. I tried to stifle my giggles at the slight ridiculousness of my situation, But then I felt a little claustrophobic as I was literally encased in it and couldn’t really move. But once I relaxed, it was quite warming and comforting. Quite womb like, in fact.
After about 20 mins the therapist came back, helped me stand up and I was lead to a shower cubicle in the same room and showered the mud completely off (THAT wasn’t easy – but the shower had jets from all directions to help. And then a thermal bath was run for me. I stepped into the warm waters and allowed the massage jets to pummel me for a good 10 minutes.
Once this was completed, I dried off and allowed myself to be led to the massage room, where I had a good half and hour to 45 minute therapeutic massage. And boy did I sleep well that night! Check their site for prices.
Hammam
As well as offering two spa pools and various treatments, Thermae Sylla Spa also offers Hammam’s of various temperatures – one with a eucalyptus tree inside, so you can imagine how wonderful that smells.
Hammam at the Thermae Sylla Spa
I’d highly recommend Evia and the spa town of Edipsos for a winter break. The treatments on offer were varied and many – and being able to swim in the outdoor pool in the warm thermal waters and sea water felt amazing, as the wind howled around you.
Don’t just think of Greece as beach destination – give it a go. Suitable for couples, romantic break, even solo travellers who want to get away from it all and rejuvenate.
When one thinks of a holiday in Greece, immediately sun and Greek islands spring to mind. Did you know that Greece is also popular for its thermal springs? Thermal Tourism was actually the first type of tourism in Greece and has been operating for over 120 years, the Cycladic Island of Kythnos with its thermal springs being popular with the Romans and King Otto.
I’d been to a thermal spa before in Greece – back in 2012 I visited the Greek spa town of Edipsos on the island of Evia to get away for my birthday. I wrote about it, and my Athenian spa experience of spas, here. The weekend of 15th January 2016 was the one year anniversary of the creation of Travel Bloggers Greece. To celebrate this achievement, our founders had organised a 2 night stay / weekend celebration at the Therma Sylla Spa in the same spa town I’d frequented 4 years previously. What better way to celebrate?
Grand entrance to the Thermae Sylla Spa Hotel on Evia
Travelling to Therma Sylla Spa
The spa/hotel is located on the Greek island of Evia. It’s possible to take a public bus – KTEL – from Terminal B, Lission St, Athens (nearest Metro – Kato Patissia on the Green line). There are three buses a day – 4 on a Friday and more in the summer. The journey takes about 3 hours total, including a 10 minute stop and 25 minute boat ride from the small port of Arkitsa to Edipsos (where you can actually then collect your luggage and walk along the promenade to the hotel). The price of the bus ticket one way is €15.30 and the ferry ticket is approx. €3.00.
And – to my surprise, KTEL buses (the Greek long distance buses) now have Wi-fi on board! Not that it’s always great to have one’s head buried in their phones or laptops – you’d miss out on the great scenery.
Travelling by boat to Therma Sylla Spa Hotel – Edipsos, Evia
Therma Sylla Spa Hotel
As Voula Karatziou – Anastasopoulou, the Hotel’s P.R Manager informed us:
We are a spa with a hotel, not a hotel with a spa attached.
This means the emphasis is on the spa itself and the treatments provided. Of course, the hotel is of 5* standard. Indeed, both Winston Churchill and Greta Garbo have been honoured guests at the hotel during its time.
View of the outdoor pool at Thermae Sylla Spa Hotel – Evia
Outdoor pool
The outdoor pool is half thermal, half salt water and retains a year round temperature of 32-34 degrees C. This means that even in the cool autumn and downright cold winter months, you can even swim outside! It’s emptied every night and the pool is cleaned, giving you piece of mind of the cleanliness of the pool.
Outdoor pool at the Thermae Spa Hotel – Evia
Indoor pool
If the idea of swimming outside in winter doesn’t appeal – then head to the indoor pool. This is 100% thermal water and maintains a year round temperature of 33-34 degrees C. Children from the age of 15 and above can use it, so if you come with small kids, the outdoor pool is the one to use whilst couples can relax in the knowledge that the indoor pool with be a haven of relaxation and peace.
Indoor pool with flowing thermal waters at Thermae Sylla Spa Hotel – Evia
This pool is located within the spa area where a variety of Wellness & Relaxation and Therapeutic treatments are available (separate blog post to follow). The quality of the water found in Edipsos is considered to be the top three in the world! You can imagine how your skin and hair feels after a few days swimming in this pool!
Travel Bloggers Greece Celebrations
As mentioned, we were here to celebrate the one year anniversary of the existence of Travel Bloggers Greece – a group of travel bloggers who blog about Greece and who have come together with the aim to co-ordinate our expertise (SEO? Google Analytics? Photography? Helping you find your writing voice?) and share ideas. It works well as we are a small team that co-ordinates and co-operates and does not believe in competition.
Our first night we had a delicious welcome meal with the team:
A photo posted by Family goes out in Greece (@familygoesout_greece) on
Final celebration meal
On our last evening – we were dressed up to the nines in our finery and the hotel, once again, provided a 5 * dinner with local wines, as well as a celebration cake.
**As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary services received.** Refer to Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel’s website for prices and special offers.
I was surprised to learn that high season for the hotel is in the summer. This is an ideal place to visit in the winter months and in fact, I would highly recommend it. Most of the tourists, previously, have been internal, i.e.: Greek tourists. But the staff speak impeccable English and the ease of reaching Thermae Sylla Spa either by public transport or car from Athens and the fact it’s not far to travel makes this an ideal get away for inbound international tourists. Couples, particularly, will like it. What are you waiting for?
**Thanks to Thermae Sylla Spa for hosting and making the weekend memorable for us – and for Travel Bloggers Greece for arranging this experience.**
The Olive Garden is located in the Titania Hotel, a rather ordinary hotel in a not particularly excellent area of Athens, if I’m honest.
However! Don’t let its immediate location put you off. Even though the hotel itself is a stones throw from Omonia Square, which although one of the oldest squares in Athens, these days isn’t particularly safe at night…it’s also well located for the National Archeological Museum, the Acropolis and Monastiraki.
I was pleased to meet a friend for coffee and a bite to eat at the Olive Garden, I’d never been there before and most coffee shops I frequent aren’t normally attached to a hotel. This made a nice change.
Great shot of the shadow of an olive tree at the Olive Garden – Titania Hotel
Ambiance
Located on the roof garden, The Olive Garden offers a virtual 360 degree view of Athens: the Acropolis and Mount Lycabettus with the three mountains that keep their eye on the capital visible; Imittos, Pendeli and Parnitha. You can also see as far as the port of Piraeus.
Sitting on the roof of the Olive Garden, with gorgeous view
Gastronomy
Their menu is comprehensive: salads, pastas, main meals (a choice of steak, duck, chicken, pork or fish dishes), a small range for children and, of course, desserts. It’s also possible to go and sit and have an unhurried coffee, the famous Greek frappe and not be rushed…soak up the view. Their menu and elegant environment it’s served in has won several awards.
Lycabettus Hill from the Olive Garden at Titania Hotel, Athens
Facts
The Olive Garden can be found at Titania Hotel, Panepistimiou 52 , Athens, 106 78, Greece.
Nearest metro is Panepistimiou (on the Red Line).
Even if you’re not staying at the Titania (and to be honest, there are nicer hotels in Athens), do head to the Olive Garden at least for a coffee. You can stay a while, soaking up the vista.
The stunning Greek island of Mykonos takes its name from the grandson of Apollo and attracts millions of tourists each year. The decision to visit Mykonos is an easy one – however, deciding when to actually visit may be a little more difficult. I’d shied away from visiting due to its party atmosphere, but discovered Mykonos out of season was beautiful. The answer all depends on what you’re looking for.
Taking into account all of the alluring delights this island has to offer, the summer months of June and July are generally considered the best time to visit. There may be a lot more tourists around at this time of year, but there’s good reason for it! Read on to discover why…
Mykonos has glorious weather
What do you expect from a Mediterranean island? Sun, sand and sea! Mykonos has the whole package during the summer, offering warm sun, soft sand and the glistening Aegean Sea. If you’re looking to top up your tan, head to Paradise beach, Elia and Panormos, each offering stunning vistas and crystal clear seas. These beaches have a plethora of bars and restaurants nearby where travellers can try delicious, affordable food and drink. Make sure you get there no later than 10am so you can enjoy a front spot with the best views.
Nightlife and partying on Mykonos
There’s no escaping it, Mykonos is renowned for having a fantastic party scene, especially in the summer. Many venues on Paradise beach turn into clubs after 4pm and are affordable, regardless of peak season. There’s something for everyone, even the wildest party animals. Mykonos attracts some of the world’s best DJ’s who usually arrive between June and late August. Since 2015, some major clubs on Paradise beach kick off their party season in April, so if you arrive early in the season, there’s still plenty going on.
Mykonos Biennale
I love the sound of this! In 2013 the Mykonos Biennale was launched, offering a range of theatrical, cultural and artistic productions. Running from the end of June through to early July, the festival sees Mykonos transform into a cultural hotspot where leading and emerging artists from all mediums unite to host a fabulous array of creative projects. Unusual public spaces such as windmills and churches turn into galleries showcasing some of the best talent from around the world. Even if you’re not particularly ‘artsy’, it’s great fun, and there’s lots to see and get involved in.
SCUBA Diving on Mykonos
The warm Mediterranean waters surrounding Mykonos attracts a diverse range of marine life, making the region one of the best for SCUBA diving. If you’re visiting in June, you couldn’t pick a better time to catch a glimpse of one of nature’s most beautiful and interesting sea animals, the green turtle. There’s a high chance of seeing these endangered animals in their natural habitat at this time of year, which is truly an unforgettable experience. Tropical fish, sperm whales and seals are just a few of the other animals you’re likely to see under the waves.
So if you’re planning a trip to Mykonos, summer really is a fantastic time to see this wonderful island in terms of things to do. Outside of peak-season, crowds disappear, the weather cools and Mykonos’ authentic character and charm remains. If you’re looking to visit the island at a quieter time, holidays from the end of September to November are a great option for those in search of a quieter trip – while the weather is still nice and the crowds significantly less.
Of course, there is plenty more going on in Mykonos, more than I can cover here. So take a look at further things to do in Mykonos, and be inspired.
Photo of the Week this week looks at the Evzones, or Greek Presidential Guards. I actually managed to interview some former guards here. It’s one of my most popular posts on the blog; an insider’s look into their life.
They guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier outside the Presidential Palace in Syntagma Square, Athens and also the residence. Rather like the British soldiers guarding Buckingham Palace, these guys are not allowed to blink, smile, let alone speak.
The soldiers are those on their National Service, most feel it’s an honour to serve in this role. Their training seems quite brutal, yet instills in them a sense of pride and integrity.
The header picture shows the big changing of the guard event that happens every Sunday in Athens outside Parliament at 11am.
Changing of the Guard outside Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Speed networking is the opportunity, when at an event such as the World Travel Market, for industry bods such as Tourism Boards, Hoteliers, etc to meet with people and / or brands they’re interested in working with and discuss ways of linking up.
In my case, I was invited to a Bloggers Speed Networking event;
100 bloggers [were] given the opportunity to take part in mini-meetings with exhibitors to explore ways to work together in the future.
Source: World Travel Market for Bloggers
Bloggers Speed Networking – World Travel Market 2015
World Travel Market Speed Networking
The World Travel Market ran from 02-05NOV15 at the massive ExCel exhibition centre in Docklands of London. On 5th November 2015, our Speed Networking event took place. I was one of 100 bloggers chosen to meet exhibitors and discuss future co-operations.
Getting my mini-stand ready at the Bloggers Speed Networking – World Travel Market 2015
What should you bring?
Media Kit (with stats about your blog)
Business Cards
Anything else you think is relevant to your brand (but beware not to overdo it, don’t clutter your table with too much info)
Because I had also recently released my travel fiction book Girl Gone Greek, I had some Author business cards made too, feeling I’d also exhibit these as my book is travel related. Wondering if I had provided too much info, I was lucky that visitors to my stand also took an interest in this side of my work.
How does it work?
Similar to the Speed Dating concept, the blogger stays at their table and the relevant exhibitor who wants to meet you comes to visit you at your table. You have 5 minutes to chat and discuss what business you can before a bell goes, and it’s time to move on.
At first, I feared I’d be the only one standing there with no-one visiting me as, unlike Speed Dating where everyone moves around EVERY table, exhibitors don’t have to come and visit you. Tables near me joked about this a little amongst each other – and as we set up it was good to meet other bloggers from different sectors;
Luxury and Cruise
Hotels and Airlines
Food
Budget & Youth
Adventure
Miscellaneous (ie: photography, video, art, history, culture and LGBT)
Responsible Travel
Independent Travel (the bracket I came under)
Family
I’d say Independent and Family Travel Bloggers were the biggest sector represented there.
When the event was officially opened at 10:00hrs, we needn’t have feared; Tourism Boards, hoteliers and the like came and ensured they chatted to find out about our blogs. Admittedly, 5 mins is a short time to sell yourself, but with business cards swapped and short bullet points made on each card (to jog my memory after the event), I endured within a week of the Trade Show I followed up interested parties with emails.
Is it worth it?
Although I’ve been blogging for some time, this was my first venture at aiming to reach out to Industry in one go, and I was glad I had the opportunity to do so. It was very interesting to find ways to further expand my blog and meet people, all under one roof. And yes, whilst it was a very hectic session, it was still worth making the contacts. So long as you follow through.
So if you’re a blogger – travel or other industry, keep an eye out in your sector for exhibitions such as the World Travel Market and do attend. The World Travel Market costs nothing to register as a blogger. The Blogger’s Speed Networking cost £40 to register, you had to provide a credit card when registering…but they only debited this money if you failed to show up for the event (without cancelling beforehand). There were other bloggers who would have loved to have the opportunity, so anyone who’s a no-show leaves the opportunity open to a blogger on a waiting list.
As we head into winter (OK, not quite there, but it’s around the corner), I thought I’d make this week’s Photo Of The Week about my trip to the Arctic that I took back in 2006. I wrote about it here and you can see what an adventurous time was had, exploring this region by tall ship.
Best visited in the summer, you can see it’s stunningly beautiful.
The World Travel Market is held every year in London and is THE opportunity to visit many travel and tourism bods…from Tourism Boards, Airlines, Hotel chains, you name it, it’s there!
I was lucky enough to attend in 2015 and represent not only my brand Life Beyond Borders, but also Travel Bloggers Greece.
One of my most memorable experiences was visiting the Etihad stand, the airline of Abu Dhabi, and seeing their First class cabins in their new A380.
First Class Cabin
Ahh, but not only does First class come with its own private cabins, on this aircraft there is now a Residence – a three roomed 125 sq foot penthouse in the sky (I’m not kidding).At £14,000 one way, you can imagine the facilities:
Living Room with Poltrona Frau leather double-seat sofa with ottoman and 32” flat screen TV – your personal favourite programmes already pre-loaded
En-suite Bathroom with shower, toilereries and bath robe
Bedroom with doube bed and Egyptian cotton sheets
Inflight chef
Personal Butler
Here, Danni Minogue shares with us her experience of The Residence:
There was the opportunity for visitors to the Etihad stand to experience First Class cabins, and The Residence (only chance I will ever get!)
See for yourself:
Personal butler Thomas shows me to my bedroom in The Residence on Etihad AirwaysPrivate Bathroom with shower in The Residence on Etihad AirwaysPrivate Living Room with Dining Table in The Residence on Etihad Airways
I was very honoured to be afforded the opportunity to see how the other half live. Let’s face it, it’ll be the only chance I get! And the crew were lovely – even supporting my debut novel Girl Gone Greek
Etihad Crew support Girl Gone Greek (the cover sort of goes with their uniform)
This week’s Photo of the Week looks at a small town in inland Greece – Levadia in the county of Viottia.
I lived there for one year when I first come to Greece and blogged about it here. It’s also the inspiration for my fictitious setting for my debut novel Girl Gone Greek, available on Amazon UK here, and COM here.
Levadia is a small town with some beautiful scenery. And only about 2 hours from Athens by bus. Near Delphi and the winter ski resort of Arachova, I would recommend you visit Levadia, at least for a day trip when you come to Greece.
Beautiful area of Krya in LevadiaGorgeous countrysideWalk up to the small chapel
Photo of the Week comes from the Pacific Northwest this week, specifically Moran State Park, one of the many gorgeous state parks that you’ll find throughout the U.S.
Cascade Lake peaking through the trees at my ‘glampsite’ in Moran State Park
Moran State Park is located on Orcas Island, part of the San Juan chain of islands, part of the state of Washington and between the U.S mainland (Seattle) and Vancouver Island (Canada). I wrote about my time glamping on Orcas Island here and the San Juan Islands in general, including whale watching, here.
It’s a beautiful part of the world. I’d go back again, and spend longer there I think.
Have you been to the San Juans? What are your thoughts?
Header picture: Cascade lake – Moran State Park, Orcas Island.
Recently I had the opportunity to visit Mykonos for the first time, and was pleasantly surprised at the ‘alternative side’ to this party island. I wrote a post about it here.
Part of my visit involved a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage island of Delos, some 3.5kms away and only 40mins by local ferry boat. I’ll be honest, I’d never really heard of Delos – it’s not on the top of my list of ancient sites to visit when I think of Greece; the Acropolis = yes, Delphi = yes. But no, not Delos. It was for this reason that I had been invited over…Mykonos has a reputation for being a party island, the island wants to branch out and offer people the ‘alternative’ side of that.
Premier Screening of Delos 2015 – outdoor Cine Manto, Mykonos
Saturday 3rd October I was invited to a private screening of this documentary about Delos. Directed by Andonis Theocharis Kioukas, owner and general manager of Cine Manto and narrated by Georges Corraface, talented Greek/French actor (and rather charming, I might add!). I remembered him from Indie film “Papadopoulos and Sons”, written and directed by Marcus Markou, who I interviewed here back in 2013.
Corraface attended the screening of the Delos documentary , which was very well received by the audience. It also gave me a taster of what to expect when I visited the next day.
Andonis Kioukas, Director (left) and Georges Corraface at the Delos PremierGeorges Corraface in silhouette against the Avenue of the Lions in the Documentary
In true Greek style, we finished the evening with a Greek buffet and wine.
Trip to Delos – Sunday 04OCT15
Up bright and early, we headed to the harbour in Mykonos Town for our trip over to this magical island. The night before had sold me on this place, so my excitement and anticipation was growing as we approached ever nearer.
Approaching Delos
Ancient Greek history tells us that Delos is the birthplace of Artemis and Apollo.
According to Greek mythology, Delos was the birthplace of Artemis and Apollo, the twin offspring of Zeus by Leto. When Leto was discovered to be pregnant, Zeus’ jealous wife Hera banished her from the earth, but Poseidon took pity on [Leto] and provided Delos as a place for her to give birth in peace.
At the height of its significance, Delos was second to Delphi and offered many temples and sanctuaries dedicated to a variety of Gods. For more on the history and significance of Delos, check out Sacred Destinations.
Avenue of the Lions – who guarded the island against invaders
On that warm, sunny October day, from the minute I stepped off the ferry I knew I had, indeed, left my ‘normal world’ back in Mykonos and stepped into an alternate reality…a whole island dedicated to the ancient Gods. We undertook a comprehensive guided tour of the artefacts and small museum.
It seems the Greek expression to swear by showing your palm comes from the ancient Greeks!
Who lives in those?
I asked. There appeared to be little houses dotted around the place. Apparently they house the guards that live there year round to guard the island. They get supplies shipped out to them, and most probably have family living on Mykonos or a nearby island so on any days off, they can go ‘home.’ What a job!
Ancient site – with guards houses visible in the backgroundThe ancients were obsessed by the Phallus!
Delos is, indeed, a fascinating place. I share with you here three videos that can do it justice:
Watch this amazing full moon concert take place on Delos in the summer of 2015:
Tips for a trip to Delos:
Try to go in the spring or autumn/fall. You’ll be doing a lot of walking with no shade, so the height of summer will be a nightmare!
Wear good trainers or solid sandals. Walking shoes if you like.
Pack a small lunch and bring water! There is a small cafe on Delos, but imagine the prices as the food is shipped in!
I am so glad I discovered this ancient site. It is a place I will come back to again and again if I have the chance…even if just to sit amongst the ruins and ruminate about life, or empty my mind and marvel and being surround by so much nature and beauty. Maybe I could rent one of the guard’s houses and finish my next novel!
**A special ‘Thank you” to my host, Stacey Papaioannou, for looking after me on my visit, and to the Delos team for their efforts in wanting to promote the island to a wider audience so that the world can appreciate this place…and not just bypass it for a crazy party on Mykonos. As I think you will have seen, there is so much more to explore.**
**As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary services received.**
Poros is a small Greek island in the Saronic Gulf. It’s literally only about an hour and a half by high speed ferry, but I much prefer the slow ferry – two hours but you can wander around the deck and not be strapped to your aeroplane seat. After all, the journey is what it’s all about.
I find it’s not so well known by the international tourists, who usually come to Greece and visit Santorini, Mykonos or Crete. Some venture further afield, but even then they may not consider the smaller, nearer to Athens Greek islands. You’re missing out.
I wrote a post here and here about Poros, check them out.
Photo of the Week aims to showcase some of the best photos taken from my travels abroad – to whet your appetite.
We kick off this week with Tiverton, my old home town in Devon, UK. I wrote a post hereabout it, where you can see the type of town my childhood home has grown into.
As you’ll see from the post, although a small town, Tiverton has a lot to offer the visitor: a castle, canal trips and walks, boutique shops and little cafes by the river.
Followers of my site will know I also wear a different hat: that of an author of fiction. In May 2015 I released my debut novel Girl Gone Greek on Amazon. I self-published it through Createspace (for the print version) and Kindle Direct Publishing for the Kindle version. I wrote a post here about the process of getting it written, but I wanted to share with you my experiences of the launch of Girl Gone Greek.
The venue
The Athens Centre – a beautiful place in Central Athens that offers Greek language classes to visitors, offered up their lecture space for a presentation, book reading and wine and nibbles in the courtyard. How could I refuse? And Xpat Athens, the leading resource for expat information in Athens offered to promote the event and sponsor it, along with Livin’Lovin’ in Greece. With so much support, how could I turn them down? That didn’t mean that I didn’t feel nervous though! For weeks beforehand, I was going through my book and asking my friends’ advice:
What bit of my book would you like to hear read at a launch?
The Athens Centre, with a good crowd
The evening
We’d had a lot of rain the preceding few days. As food would be served in the courtyard afterwards, I was concerned it would rain on the night. I also had the dream several times that I’d be left standing in an empty room, ie: no-one would turn up. That mixed with the dream of standing naked in front of a crowd all added to my nerves!
The Introductions were given by the Director of the Athens Centre and then the Managing Director of Xpat Athens. They were both positive and upbeat, praising people who are able to sit in front of a computer and put their thoughts into words for all to enjoy, and praise for the book itself – that it helps promote Greece in a positive light. This helped my fears ebb away. And then it was my turn.
Promoting Greece
The audience was a mixture of Greeks and expats (many of whom are friends of mine – which really helped to see supportive faces in the crowd) and also students of the Athens Centre, from the U.S.
The author of Girl Gone Greek in action!
As I stood up in front of the crowd, I felt my fears disappear completely (oddly enough). I wanted them to hear about my Greece, my experiences of the hospitality and beauty, not what is so often portrayed by international media these days. And so I spoke from my heart. I abandoned most of my notes and just told people as it is: Girl Gone Greek is a story loosely based on my experiences living in a village and teaching English when I first came to Greece. The characters I met, the eccentricities I fell in love with, the frustrations of the bureaucracy.
Greece is a dichotomy
I told my audience.
You love and hate her in equal measures. She sucks you in – in a good way.
Afterwards we had a book signing and then mingled over the food and wine.
NOTE: If you ever find yourself doing an event with food, ask someone to put a plate aside for you. You’ll be so busy chatting to people, by the time you get to the food and wine, it’s gone!
Here, in pictures, you can see how the event went, and also a video of the event:
Thomas Kohnstamm, in my opinion, is one brave man. Some (including Thomas) might say he’s stupid, maybe even delusional. Because he traded his 9-5 lifestyle for a life of travel and no fixed abode? No, plenty of people do that. Because he became a travel writer for Lonely Planet? Nope, there are plenty of travel writer’s out there. Maybe it’s because in 2008 he released his expose Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?—about his first stint of travel writing for Lonely Planet’s Brazil guidebook.
It piqued my interest as I write for Rough Guides, the competitor to Lonely Planet and I was intrigued to read about his experiences, see if they matched my own. I can safely say Thomas led a fabulously complicated journey of sex, drugs and rock n’ roll – literally, whilst on the road. My trip around the Greek Islands paled in comparison!
I won’t give too many spoilers, but suffice to say I laughed aloud and am honoured to be able to interview Thomas.
Bio image from www.thomaskohnstamm.com
BIO: Thomas Kohnstamm is a Seattle-based writer and video producer. He wrote phrasebooks, guidebooks and travel articles from the late ‘90s until the late 2000s for the likes of Lonely Planet, MSNBC and Forbes. His 2008 gonzo memoir Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? was published in numerous languages and was in development as a comedy series at Showtime. He currently writes and makes videos for Xbox and other brands and is finishing his first novel. Although he now has two young children, he is still an avid traveler (when possible) and spends part of each year with his family in Brazil.
Everybody dreams, sitting in their cubicle, of jacking it all in and ‘doing a runner.’ In your case, you were offered the opportunity to write for Lonely Planet’s Brazil Guidebook.
What was the straw that broke the camel’s back and pushed you to take up the job offer – and how easy was it to get the job? Did you apply, or was it a case of ‘it’s not what you know, but who?’
I pitched and wrote a phrasebook for Lonely Planet just a few months after I graduated from university in the late 90s. It was the right idea at the right time. I pitched them through their customer service email and they bought it!?!?
They offered me a guidebook gig after I completed the phrasebook, but I had already been accepted to graduate school – so I passed and for the next few years, my life took a very different direction. I ended up in New York City, working as a researcher on Wall Street. I was doing what I thought I was supposed to be doing; I had an apartment, a girlfriend, a routine… a toehold in an urban middle-class American existence. But I felt like a fish out of water and wanted something different out of my life.
I was in need of a change when I received an email from Lonely Planet asking if I was interested in picking up a gig in Brazil. It still wasn’t an easy decision to make. I had a lot to lose and no guarantees.
When you left for your adventure, did you have any regrets?
I didn’t have any regrets on the career front, but the relationship and lifestyle stuff were difficult. I had to make some hard and ultimately selfish choices. To succeed as a travel writer, you have to go all in and make some pretty big sacrifices in the process.
How much preparation and help were you offered?
None.
The book is peppered with a multitude of adventures. What was the hairiest one?
Hard to say. Getting out of New York was definitely the most difficult part.
As for Brazil, things are always tricky there. It’s a hot mess – that’s what makes Brazil Brazil. My wife is Brazilian and we spend at least one month every year in Rio visiting her family. Things area always fun and crazy and just a hairline away from becoming legitimate trouble.
Is there anything you would do differently?
Regarding the trip: Everything. Nothing. It’s hard to say.
Regarding the publication of the book: I would have gotten the book out to more travel bloggers ahead of time rather than relying on the publishing house and major media to publicize it. The story got twisted up in a sensational Aussie tabloid story that went global and then the controversy and online backlash jumped off the rails. It had little to nothing to do with the actual content of the book.
What happened with Lonely Planet after the release of your book?
I wasn’t writing for them anymore when the book was released. I hadn’t since before I published my book. They threatened to sue me. I was blackballed by other travel publishers too. Travel + Leisure scrubbed all of my bylines from their site. But others, like Forbes, became keener to work with me and said they appreciated my unvarnished approach – so who knows…
What advice do you have for any aspiring travel writer?
Study storytelling. Learn to write vividly about people and place. Travel information is now a commodity. It will get even less valuable as more and more comes from user generated content and data clouds. Good storytelling is the premium skill that can be used to negotiate a better fee and can also allow you to write in other genres to round out your freelancing career.
For me, I felt Do All Travel Writers Go To Hell is definitely worth a read, for an insider’s view of life on the road – the reality. Whilst I could relate up to a point, there are a lot of elements that differed for me. Even so, Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? tops my list of reading books.
On my return from Seattle, I decided to break my jet lag and do a stop over in Iceland for a couple of nights. Icelandair is a very popular airline from Europe to the U.S (it’s a shorter route in time, usually as you’re going so far north) and they allow you to break your journey at no extra cost on the airline ticket.
The Bus Hostelin Reykjavik kindly hosted me for one night. An old physiotherapy training centre and only two years old, the lovely Manager Iah (best way to pronounce her name and spell it I was assured. Have you ever seen full Icelandic names?!) and I sat down in the quirky common area for a quiet drink to talk about the facilities.
Common Room area of BUS Hostel, Reykjavik, Iceland. They even light candles at night.
Reception
Manned 24 hours and located next to SAD Rent-a-Car desk, as well as check you in they can book excursions, order delivery food for you and book your airport transfer.
Getting there, to and from the airport
It’s easy, it really is. The Flybus operates from Keflavik Airport either to the BSI (Bus Terminal) for ISK3,500 (GBP17.50 return) – but as you have to walk to the Hostel from the Bus Station – not far, but with bags, etc it could be a pain. So why not take up the option of paying roughly ISK5,000 (GBP25.00 return) for the bus to take you straight to the hostel? They have buses that serve all arriving and departing flights, so you’re guaranteed to get one.
Location
Located on the outskirts, the hostel isn’t exactly central, admittedly – but it takes about 10 minutes to walk into town, if you know where you’re going. Unfortunately I wasn’t too familiar with the area and got somewhat lost – and was assured that I was probably the only person who had done that they knew of! (Or maybe I’m the only one who admitted I did – or maybe I’m just directionally challenged).
Despite this, it’s actually quite easy to find your way into town: look out for the landmark spire of Hallgrimskirkja (no, I can’t pronounce that either) and walk in that direction.
The trademark Hallgrimskirkja Church – spire visible from BUS Hostel
The advantage of not being 100% central is that it’s quiet – very quiet. No street noise to keep you awake at night. And I slept like a baby!
They also offer a private double room, where I had the luxury of sleeping. Amusing for me was the two duvets on the double bed. On my enquiry as to why two duvets are offered, Iah laughed:
Can you imagine sharing one duvet all night with another person?!
I guess she has a point…maybe it’s an Icelandic thing, but in retrospect yes, who doesn’t have issues with their partner nicking the duvet every time they turn over.
The double room at BUS Hostel, Reykjavik, Iceland. Note the two duvets
Bathrooms are ridiculously clean – obviously that’s a positive thing…and both toilet and shower are located in the same room, so you get the whole place to yourself. The added bonus is that BUS Hostel is not a party style. Yes it’s sociable, but not party, so it makes for a great night’s sleep – and appropriate for people of all ages (unless you’re into hardcore partying obviously).
Facts
Free bicycles to use (you might want to take them up on this, in good weather, given its distance to town)
06:30-09:30 they offer free toast and jam. NOTE: don’t expect a full on breakfast, it’s just to sustain you
Door locked 1am-7am, but possible to use your keycard to enter
Even though it’s on the outskirts of town, the friendly staff will more than happily discuss food delivery options with you, if you don’t want to head into town and just want to relax
No laundry on site (at the time I stayed = AUG15) but I’ve been told this is about to change and they will introduce some machines
There is no minimum stay. People have been known to book a dorm bed for 5 or 6 hours in between flights, and this is entirely possible due to its good links to the airport with FLYBUS
So if you’re looking for somewhere not too noisy with friendly service and a relaxed atmosphere, you can’t go wrong with BUS Hostel.
You can book here (please note I will receive a small commission if you choose to, but at no extra charge to you).
**A special thanks to The Bus Hostel for hosting me during my stay in Iceland. As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary services received.**
During my recent trip to the States, I spend my time in Seattle and the San Juan Islands. Initially I stayed at a friend’s house int he district of West Seattle and sat her cat whilst she was away…how lucky I was: to be able to go out exploring by day and come home to this cutie at night (ensuring I didn’t get too cat sick!)
Such a sweet cat I sat for in Seattle
Next, I went to stay in the district of Ballard, slightly more funky and nearer downtown. After a stint staying in Capitol Hill (not in Washington D.C, but a very fashionable, hip area within spitting distance of Downtown Seattle) – I decided my heart lay in West Seattle: it was quieter, very picturesque being right on Elliot Bay, an incredibly laid back vibe and yet only about a 30 minute bus ride into the centre of town (and you’ll have read by now what I thought of the public transport in my post here). So an AirBNB search allowed me spend the remaining time there – and enjoy everything it had to offer.
Here are some of the reasons why I love West Seattle
Lincoln Park in West Seattle
Lincoln Park in West Seattle
Seattle boasts many gorgeous parks – my favourite (in West Seattle) was Lincoln Park located on the Puget Sound, just by where the ferry leaves for Vashon Island. Open from 4am until 11:30pm, it offers over 130 acres of parkland and a paved walkway along the beach. It really was lovely to go there and watch the ferries to Vashon Island, maybe swim in the outdoor salt water pool (Colman’s Pool – too cold for me! I’m spoilt, living in Greece) or just sit and watch the squirrels. It added to a sense of tranquility, especially the far off views of the Olympic Mountain Range and I envied those who had houses with views of the park.
Beautiful treelined trails in Lincoln Park – West SeattleBeach trail – Lincoln Park – West SeattleThe odd squirrel here and there, spotted in Lincoln Park, West Seattle
Barton Street Patch
Barton Street Patch – West Seattle
I am sure there are lots of these dotted around various spots in Seattle, but as West Seattle was my first stop, I came across this community project and fell in love with the idea. The patch is basically the same premise as an allotment, but they’re not fenced off and the public can walk through stand enjoy it (but don’t take from it!) Everyone ‘rents’ and tends their own section of the patch, any left over food is given to a food bank and once a month, the outdoor oven is used to make huge pizzas for the community to gather and enjoy.
Produce is grown at the Barton Street Patch, West SeattleLeftover food goes to a food bank from the Barton Street Patch in West Seattle. What a good idea!
Ripple Cafe, West Seattle
Seattle is renowned for its coffee shops (yes, we all know about Starbucks). I like finding the quirky, out of the tourist trail ones though – and as West Seattle isn’t particularly touristy, I was chuffed to be thrown into the thick of ‘local life’ when I came across the Ripple Cafe.
Ripple Cafe – West Seattle
Mother and daughter duo, their signature dish is meatloaf muffin with mashed potato frosting. Yes, it is as delicious as it sounds.
Meatloaf muffin with potato frosting at the Ripple Cafe, West Seattle
As West Seattle Library was conveniently situated across the road from the cafe, I would go and do some work and then spent most of the day with Barb the owner. It was spending time there, meeting her friends, the other shop owners around that I came to really feel a little less like a tourist and more like a local (albeit with a plummy accent!).
Co-Co and Co. Hair Salon, West Seattle
I met hairdresser extraordinaire Antonio Cejudo when in the Ripple Cafe. Co-Co and Co. is located two doors up. I kept hearing from Barb how famous he is around Seattle and I silently prayed I might be able to get a style from him – and my prayers were answered! Co-Co and Co. are indeed SO well-known that they’ve been booked for 2015 completely since the beginning of the year. I was lucky to get a cancellation and Antonio squeezed me in for a ‘blow out’ (‘style’ in British English).
The salon is run by duo Antonio and Nathan, Nathan being the managerial brains and computer / website design wizz (he really is, trust me). To quote their site:
Antonio Cejudo and Nathan Panuco founded CoCo & Company Hair Salon in 2010 with the intent not to be the biggest, or most well known salon; but to be of the highest quality with highly satisfied customers. CoCo & Company approaches each customer as an individual and tailors your hair to be an original creation just for your style.
And it really is a personal experience. I was impressed at how ‘unaffected’ the atmosphere was. Antonio has styled hair for Seattle Bride Magazine and several fashion shows at Paris Fashion week.
I asked why they didn’t open their salon Downtown and why in West Seattle?
Why? We have a local atmosphere here, lots of parking and we’re well-known anyway, so people will come wherever we’re located. And have you seen the rents downtown?!
Antonio at work on my hair
I don’t know what I expected really…maybe someone who would find working with the likes of me beneath them? Ha! How wrong was I! I feel like Antonia and Nathan are adopted brothers. They’re very unaffected and there’s not a cliquey atmosphere at all.
Check them out on Facebook and Antonio on Instagram to see many of his styles.
Part of the finished product. Antonio of CoCo and Co Hair Salon in West Seattle worked on my hair
The Junction in West Seattle
This is an area of West Seattle known for its great bars, yet still pretty chilled out vibe. My final days I stayed in an AirBNB here and had a lovely time, hopping on a short bus ride to go and visit the Ripple Cafe and CoCo and Co. It also has some pretty good coffee shops too (hey, this is Seattle, home of the coffee shop).
West Seattle Summer Fest at The Junction
If you’re planning a vacation to Seattle and want to stay somewhere other than the centre and main neighbourhoods, I can’t recommend this district enough, as you’ve probably gathered. What with it’s Block Parties, sunsets and general vibe – and with only a bus ride away to the centre, you can’t go wrong.
I was so fortunate in the summer of 2015 to be able to spend most of it in the Pacific Northwest of the U.S, Seattle and the San Juan Islands to be exact. Do go to the relevant place on my site to read various posts about my experiences and adventures there. As an English girl in America, I thought it’d be interesting to share my observations about what I consider to be some of the pros and cons of American culture.
Bear in mind I was a tourist for about 5 weeks, so I am aware this gave me only a fleeting glimpse into life in this region and is not necessarily representative of the rest of the States, and that this is a purely subjective post. Take it with a pinch of salt.
English girl in America – Pros
1) The ‘How are you?” culture
It seems wherever you go, people are asking you how you are; the local coffee shop, the neighbour you pass on the street (yes, it appears people actually speak to their neighbours in Seattle), in fact – just about anyone…even the Immigration official at the airport (although I did wonder how genuine he was).
People always smile when they say it, and some occasionally reach out and squeeze your arm. Coming from a culture that is also very tactile (Greek), this pleased me.
2) The public transport, and how it helps those in wheelchairs and the elderly
Many Seattleites looked at me in amazement when I told them I found their public transport to be remarkably cheap – $2.50 per bus journey, irrespective of length of time. You can either pay (with exact money) on the bus, or buy an Orcas card (like an Oyster in London or Octopus in Hong Kong) and top it up with money. As an English girl in America, this please me.
Orcas (Seattle), Oyster (London) and Octopus (Hong Kong) transport cards
I witnessed several times different bus drivers lowering the bus for a wheelchair to board, and then to actually help the wheelchair user to strap themselves into the designated spot. I can honestly say I have never seen a London bus driver do this. I also loved how willing the bus driver is to tell you if you’re on the correct bus and shout out the stop for you. Again, London bus drivers certainly do NOT do this (in my experience). I was once told to download the Transport for London app on my phone in order to obtain information.
But I don’t have internet on my phone
I told the driver (I didn’t at the time and before you all think I am a moron, I do now – grudgingly I have given in). He looked at me like I was a moron and refused to help me. A fellow passenger did. So yes, as an English girl in America it was refreshing for me to experience bus drivers who actually helped, both verbally (me with directions) and physically (people in wheelchairs, with push buggies, etc). And smiled when they did it!
3) The beauty of the Pacific Northwest
Ok, now we move onto aesthetics. I live in Greece and have argued that on islands such as Santorini (in fact, most of the Greek Islands), we have the best sunsets in the world. As an English girl in America, I now have to revise that after having visited the Pacific North West. Yes Seattleites, you are right – you do have (some) of the best sunsets too.
This awesome shot was taken when whale watching off San Juan Island at sunsetLooking to Puget Sound at sunset, from West Seattle
Parks
Oh the parks in Seattle! Magnificent, tree lined – and all by the coast, even inner city ones have views out to the coast.
Lincoln Park – West SeattleFabulous city skyline from Kerry Park
And who can dispute that Mount Rainier – that sleeping volcano overlooking Seattle from a distance – isn’t a magnificent beauty?
Gorgeous Mout Rainier as we approach her
4) Libraries
You may look at this and find it an odd one to find so appealing, but as an English girl in America this really stood out to me. As a blogger, it was important for me to find someplace quiet to work (I tend to need total quiet and get too distracted in coffee shops – maybe I’m just not hip enough). Imagine my delight when I discovered the Public Library of Seattle! Huge open spaces with work stations and free internet, or quiet rooms…and just look at this architecture!
The outside of Seattle’s main Public Library
Even local neighbourhood libraries are well stocked and quiet:
Local neighbourhood library – Capitol Hill
5) Neighbourhood ‘block’ parties
I was fortunate enough to be there during the time when Seattle closes its streets in different neighbourhoods at different times of the week/in the evenings and has a ‘block’ party (effectively a street party). It’s a chance to get to now your neighbours and socialise in the street, a long table is placed with food donated by everyone – and it’s actually (to coin an American phrase) – TOTALLY AWESOME!
I was so fortunate to be invited by a local woman who ran neighbourhood cafe The Ripple Cafe in West Seattle (do visit it if you ever get a chance to visit Seattle and stay in the area. There are plenty of AirBNB places in West Seattle and it makes a great alternative to staying in the centre, plus it’s easily commutable to downtown by the great public transport, as mentioned above).
Blocking off the streetLook at the array of food on offer!
And there was even a live band – who regularly plays at joints around town. Check them out (and the kids having so much fun)…
OK, I have exalted the merits of public transport in my time in Seattle – but you know, as someone once said to me;
Sometimes ya just godda get an Uber!
Yes. Quite. For those of you unfamiliar with Uber, it’s an app you can download to your phone and order a car (just like a cab, but cheaper and better) and instead of waiting for about half an hour for an available taxi, and possibly having a driver with attitude, Uber drivers are super helpful, are with you within minutes, you can estimate the cost of your journey before you travel and the cars are clean and almost always come with bottled water for the client. I’ve used it in London and the States now (Seattle) and I cannot recommend it enough. Sorry taxi drivers…I know you’re striking all over the world because of the competition, but what can I say? Clean car, there within minutes and CHEAPER does it for me. For example, I paid $28.27 for a ride from West Seattle to the airport, which was a journey of 14.98 miles and took 22.92 minutes. Yes, Uber even gives you a detailed breakdown.
All in all, I loved my time there – but yes, there are some Cons to look at too:
Cons – English girl in America
1) The “How are you?” culture
Yes, ironically this is a detriment too. After the second week of people repeatedly asking me with (what now seemed to be a frozen) fixed smile, I started to wonder: what would happen if I actually said;
You know what? My day’s really sh*t. I just lost my cat.
As an English girl in America I wondered: would people still smile at me and give me the thumbs up and say “Greaaaaaaat!”? I was too kind to actually try this out. I thought I’d just role with it.
2) The word ‘like’ being injected into virtually every second word
As a teacher of English as a Foreign Language, I am aware that maybe I can be a little too picky when it comes to my native tongue. There are several differences between British and American English (Aluminum? What the hell is that?! It’s Aluminium – even my spellchecker on my Mac knows that!) Torch vs flashlight, etc.
As an English girl in America, my pet peeve, however, was the propensity (see? I am starting to enunciate properly now) for Americans of ALL ages (well, except for maybe the older generation, thank God) to inject the word ‘like’ into literally every second word of a sentence. Example:
So, like, I was walking down the street, like, and I, like, saw this man who had, like, tattoos, like, all over his face and, like, I got a bit scared and felt, like, I should cross to the, like, other sidewalk.
Aggghhhh! It’s like (sorry, but that’s used in the correct context) listening to someone chomp on chewing gum without their mouths closed! And there were people using this phrase who seemed to be from all walks of life…even on NPR radio when an academic was interviewed!
I asked a kind man in his 20s who was serving me coffee to explain, and he laughed and said that now I, like, mention it (*sigh*), he can hear it too. He blames in on “The Valley Girl” and this fab YouTube video I found, like, totally explains it:
3) The aggressive driving (not of Uber drivers) makes being a pedestrian dangerous!
And the amount of people using their mobile (sorry, cell) phones whilst driving! OMG, you think Athens, Greece is dangerous? I was really quite taken aback at how aggressive the driving was. Example; in the U.S., at a stop light the car is allowed to turn (yield) left or right despite the red light, so long as the road is clear of both other cars and pedestrians. Well, it is as if pedestrians don’t exist to some cars. The just go ahead and yield anyway, irrespective of the fact the little green man is showing for me to cross. And, (get this): they have the cheek to honk at me as it’s it’s my fault for getting in their way!
I pointed rather obviously at the green man, then realised I should probably not provoke someone in the U.S. in a car…after all, we’re talking about a gun culture here and who knows how road rage manifests itself in this country?!
My Seattleite friends laugh at me and say that people from different states come to Seattle (and Washington State in general) and comment on how polite the drivers are! Apparently it’s much worse in California…jeez!
4) The beauty of the Pacific North West!
Yes, conversely this was a con for me as well. As you have probably gathered from above, I fell in love with Seattle sunsets and the San Juan Islands chain, Mount Rainier, etc so much that it was hard to drag myself away.
Conclusion
You’ll see my Pros far outweigh the Cons – I fell in love overall with the Pacific Northwest. The people I met have become firm friends and I have had more than one offer of a place to stay should I ever go back (which I fully intend to do).
Thank you – Seattle – for starting my love affair with the West Coast of the United States. Let’s see how different it is if I get the chance to explore more of your country.
Beneath the streets of Seattle lies an underground world – literally. I was lucky enough to experience these subterranean streets during my trip to the Emerald City in an Underground Tour of Seattle
Bill Speidel – Underground tour of Seattle
This was the founder of the Seattle Underground experience. He has a rich history but his passion for preserving the ‘original Seattle’ came about in the 1950s.
He is one of a group of visionaries who saved Pioneer Square by mounting a citizen campaign to convince the city to designate downtown’s oldest neighborhood an historic district, thus sparing from the wrecking ball the largest collection of Victorian-Romanesque buildings in the United States. The Underground Tour, which Speidel founded in 1965, is a by-product of that campaign.
The Great Fire Of London was in 1699, but did you know there was also a Great Fire Of Seattle?
Initially, Seattle had buildings made from wood. On June 6, 1889 John E. Back – a cabinetmaker – accidentally overturned and ignited a glue pot. He tried to put it out with water, but this spread the burning grease-based glue. The volunteer fire department made the mistake of trying to use too many hoses at once which resulted in a drop in water pressure and the Great Seattle Fire destroyed 31 blocks.
Rebuilding
Instead of rebuilding the city as it was before, the city leaders made two decisions:
1) All new buildings must be of stone or brick, as insurance against a similar disaster in the future;
2) To build the streets one to two stories higher than it was originally.
Pioneer Square had originally been built mostly on filled-in tidelands and as a consequence, it often flooded. The new street level also [made sure] that gravity-assisted flush toilets that funneled into the bay did not back up at high tide [ewwwww! Yes. Originally the toilets would, at high tide, wash back all the excrement that had been previously, er, ‘released.’ So you were possibly getting a double dose of the stuff. Nice town planning.]
Basically the streets were raised to 12 feet higher than before, in some places nearly 30 feet.
Streets and sidewalks
At first, pedestrians climbed ladders to go between street level and pavements in front of building entrances. Brick archways were constructed next to the road surface above the submerged sidewalks. Skylights with small panes of clear glass (which later became amethyst-coloured because of manganese in the glass) were installed, creating the area now called the Seattle Underground.
Standing under the skylights with our tour guide on the Seattle Underground tour
Buildings
When they reconstructed their buildings, merchants and landlords knew that the ground floor would eventually be underground and the next floor up would be the new ground floor, so there is very little decoration on the doors and windows of the original ground floor, but extensive decoration on the new ground floor.
Once the new sidewalks were complete, building owners moved their businesses to the new ground floor, although merchants carried on business in the lowest floors of buildings that survived the fire, and pedestrians continued to use the underground sidewalks lit by the glass prisms (still seen today on some streets) embedded in the sidewalk above.
Plague and speakeasies
In 1907 the city condemned the Underground because they feared bubonic plague, two years before the 1909 World Fair in Seattle. The basements were left to go to waste or used as storage. Some became illegal dosshouses for the homeless, gambling halls, speakeasies (a place to illegally buy alcohol during prohibition era) and opium dens.
Thanks to Bill Speidel, a small portion of the Seattle Underground has been restored and made safe and accessible to the public on guided tours.
Underground Tour of Seattle
Don’t think of this as a ‘boring tour about history’ – far from it! Our tour guide – Allie – led us on a very entertaining 75 minute adventure. You’ll not only be given the history, but regaled with some ghost stories too.
Allie our tour guide in action
‘Seamstresses’
Yes, it appears Seattle is a town build on these industrious young women once their ‘profession’ was legalised (i.e.: the city could then collect taxes) – the city boomed! And this was years before women even got the vote – something wrong there: biggest financial contributors to the city, no vote allowed…hmm. If you haven’t guessed by now, ‘seamstresses’ is an euphemism for…
The tour takes you to three different sections of the Underground city, starting in Doc Maynard’s Public House (an 1890’s salon). As I said, it’s fascinating to hear the history of the various places in Seattle – and to hear of the conditions people once lived in (volcanic toilets anyone, as described above? Yuck!)
Typical ‘underground house’
Note:
It’s best to book your Underground Tour in advance. Check their website here. Tours are usually on the hour, or every half hour from May to September.
**A special thanks to Bill Speidel’s Tours for hosting me during my stay in Seattle. As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary services received.**
Having seen a lot of touristy places in Seattle such as the Gum Wall and Pike Place Market, the Space Needle and Mount Rainier, I decided it was time to take myself offshore – more specifically to the San Juan Islands – and I would fly Kenmore Air.
San Juan Islands from Kenmore Air floatplane
Where are the San Juans?
San Juan is the capital of Puerto Rico, but do not confuse this with the San Juan Islands. The San Juans are are an archipegalo of roughly 172 named islands in the northwest corner of the U.S., yet according to the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau – only four are served by ferry and scheduled float and/or wheel plane: San Juan Island, Orcas Island, Lopez Island and Shaw Island. Possibly others are serviced by float plane, but check with the airline (see below).
I chose to spend four days up here – escaping the hustle/bustle of Seattle (although there wasn’t a lot of that to be honest, Seattle is a very laid back place). I would glamp – glamorous camping (more of that to follow): 2 nights on San Juan Island, 2 nights on Orcas Island. With temperatures in the 70s in the summer (20s Celsius) and longish summer nights, how could I go wrong?
Getting to the San Juan Islands
I could have taken the Washington State ferry from Anarcortes, a nearly 2 hour drive north of Seattle on the I-5 highway. But I decided a mixture of float and wheel plane would be more fun. This is where Kenmore Air came in.
Kenmore Air
Kenmore Air floatplane
You can find out more about the history of Kenmore Air here – but briefly it is a family company that was established in 1946. They have 25 aircraft in operation, employ 52 pilots and in peak season (summer), employ over 250 staff. As well as offering flights either by wheel or float plane (the planes that can land on water), they also offer scenic flight tours of Seattle, whale-watching flights, flights up to Victoria, BC and a choice of flights in the BC Inside Passage. Check here for destinations.
Lake Union – Seattle to Friday Harbor, San Juan Island
I made sure I was at Seattle Lake Union early to catch my 13:30 float plane to Friday Harbor Marina, Friday Harbor being the county seat of San Juan Island. The flight takes 55 minutes and at a cost of just under $150.00 One Way in peak season, I think it’s a good price.
Depending on the seaplane, it can seat either 6 or 10 passengers. I was lucky as I was able to sit next to Larry, our pilot. It’s pretty exhilarating taxiing on the water, and just as you’re convinced you’ll collide with a small boat, liftoff!
The journey offers spectacular views of Seattle as you depart, and as we climbed to our altitude at a cruise speed of approx. 134mph, the Puget Sound came into view through the clouds, the occasional sail boat making an appearance.
The great thing about travelling by smaller plane is that as your altitude is not as high, you’re able to see more – even spot the occasional whale! Alas, I wasn’t lucky on this particular journey.
View flying to the San Juans on Kenmore Air
45 mins later (earlier than scheduled), we landed on the water at Friday Harbor Marina, where I was met by Barbara Marrett of San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau – I was lucky to be shown around by her.
San Juan to Orcas Island, and Orcas back to Seattle
Inter island transfer was again by plane, but this time by wheeled plane. These Cessna planes are slightly bigger and can seat up to a maximum of 10 passengers. Both Friday Harbor and Orcas Island have tiny airports…very quaint!
Facts
Seaplanes have a baggage allowance of 25lbs (11kg) TOTAL per person, regardless of the numbers of bags
Your items will be weighed, including small purses
You might even be weighed! Be prepared to be asked for your weight. I didn’t know mine, so was weighed (and discovered for the first time in a long time how much I weigh as I don’t particularly pay much attention to such things!)
Wheeled planes have a baggage allowance of 50lbs (23kgs) TOTAL per person
Check in is 45 minutes for international departures (if you’re flying to Canada, for example) or 30 mins prior for domestic departures
**In general, I would really recommend taking a seaplane and/or wheeled plane out to the San Juan Islands. It’s an alternative way to travel, and highly enjoyable **
**A special thanks to Colleen Eastman, Marketing Co-ordinator of Kenmore Air for arranging a media rate for my flights. As always, all thoughts and opinions remain my own, despite any complimentary or discounted services received.**
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