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It’s All Greek – replica Greek artefacts for sale in central London

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It’s All Greek is a specialist in fine replicas of ancient Greek art and jewellery and they work exclusively with small, family run businesses (like their own). Their product range comes from a team of over fifteen companies: currently 12 in Greece and 5 in the UK. Nothing is mass-produced and with their shop located in Bloomsbury, London—opposite the east corner of the British Museum to be exact, it’s in a perfect location!

As a Grecophile myself, I came across them on Twitter and immediately fell in love with their philosophy:

Our aims are to nurture enthusiasm for the spirit and art of ancient Greece, to promote the excellent products of our suppliers and to provide our customers with the best possible quality and service.

Opening in 2000, It’s All Greek have supplied feature films such as Troy, Alexander and Clash of the Titans as well as their own shop featured in various media such as The Daily Telegraph and Elle Decoration.

I regularly visit London and this time, decided to go and visit Elinor Wynne Lloyed, founder and owner of It’s All Greek and have a chat with her and the team.

Elinor Wynne Lloyd of It's All Greek
Elinor Wynne Lloyd of It’s All Greek

Your website is very extensive and shows us what can be purchased, as well as giving us background information about this lovely enterprise run by a collection of friends and family who come from a Classics background.

What was the final push in your compass to dedicate a shop to selling all things Greek?

During my sixteen years or so as a Classics teacher, I took a number of school trips to Greece, as I wanted the students to experience that magic of visiting the sites and to make the subject come alive. I found myself purchasing a number of bits and pieces to bring home to use in class and to have at home. Friends would often ask me to bring something back for them too, so I decided there might well be a market for this, albeit a very niche one.

How can It’s All Greek be seen to support the Greek economy?

Well, since 2000, I have built up a team of around fifteen suppliers in Greece. All small, family run businesses. It isn’t just a commercial benefit to them, although there has been a steady stream of income from us over the last years, but it is more of an endorsement and support for the amazing skills and talent that continue to flourish in Greece today, in the face of so much competition from elsewhere and the mass production of low quality items. My suppliers are supportive of me too, of course. It works both ways.

How did you become involved in supplying the film industry?

We’re going back a while, now…before I had a shop, so pre-2003, when my home was like a more cluttered ‘replica’ version of the Soane Museum! Someone rang from Pinewood [Studios in the UK] and asked if they could come over and have a chat. We supplied Alexander with a number of our very large hand-painted vases, two of each, as they were filming in two locations and needed to ensure that if there were a breakage, they would have a spare.

The props team for Troy found us after this, and therefafter others, the most recent being the first series of Atlantis, featuring our replica Minoan snake goddeses.

Your range is extensive (jewellery, busts, masks, tiles, pottery to name but a few).

Bust anyone? It's All Greek
Bust anyone? It’s All Greek

Did you start small and gradually build up?

Our core collection is our bronzes, which come from the most amazing supplier in Greece. They also supply other items, but yes, incrementally there has been a development in the range we offer, especially since taking on the larger shop. I find it hard to resist stocking pieces I like…..I suppose that’s the Classicist/teacher in me!

Artifacts for sale in It's All Greek
Artefacts for sale in It’s All Greek

What are your ‘best sellers’ at It’s All Greek, if any, and why?

It varies from week to week, but I would say that the bronze helmets have always been a bit of a winner, along with our Cycladic collection and silver jewellery. Lately our new terracotta collection of little boats and goats has proved popular too, so it’s hard to tell.

As well as supplying to larger industry, do you regularly ship to individuals abroad?

We don’t really supply larger industry…it was a one-off wonder, I think, the blockbuster movie era! Most of our business is to our extensive customer base in the UK and all over the world: lovers of things Greek, Classical scholars past, present and just beginning on their journey – and really, just people who understand the value of this wonderful, timeless civilisation.

Artifacts for sale at It's All Greek
Artefacts for sale at It’s All Greek

Where do you see the future of It’s All Greek?

Difficult one at the moment, as I’m not sure we will be here in a year’s time, due to the possibility, imminently, of a prohibitive rent hike.  I would like to stay for another three years until my lease runs out, but if I can’t afford the rent, so be it. So, very unsure…and sad about it.

It is sad to hear that as my visit to It’s All Greek and meeting Elinor in person showed me what a passionate person she is about her subject.  In fact, taken from her Biography, you can see her just how young she was when she fell in love with Greece:

In 1972, a 12 year-old presented to her history teacher a south-west corner of the Parthenon. Fashioned and painted with loving care, it was mediocre yet meticulous.  This was to be the first love affair of the country for Elinor.

Of her shop, Elinor says:

The morning light on a Cycladic figurine or the brooding shadows of a replica bronze helmet take my breath away. A cheeky terracotta turtle – a replica of a child’s toy from Heraklion– makes me smile. The cast of characters at It’s All Greek is alive, each with its own story to tell.

And her thoughts on Greece?

I envy the customers who say they have not yet been to Greece. I envy them the anticipation and that first visit on a journey. Similar to a homecoming.

I seem to have found someone similarly in love with the country – someone who ‘gets’ it.

Thanks Elinor!  And I hope It’s All Greek continues, whether online or moving premises.

its-all-greek

A look around Tiverton, Devon, UK

I’d never really been a fan of Tiverton.  Nestled in mid-Devon, a county in the south-west of the UK, I can attribute my lack of enthusiasm for the place to having grown up as a teenager here in the 80s.  Anyone who comes from a provincial market town will tell you: being a teenager in the countryside isn’t all “Anne of Green Gables,” etc.  I was bored and couldn’t wait to get out of there.

Tiverton in the Noughties

Whether it’s age or nostalgia, one thing’s for sure: I quite enjoy coming back to Tiverton to visit family now.  In retrospect, it’s not nostalgia: I really didn’t like the place back in the 80s/90s.  It’s because, in place of the old Wimpy hamburger, there are boutique shops selling lovely clothes.

Jo Amor boutique shop - Tiverton, Devon, UK.
Jo Amor boutique shop – Tiverton, Devon, UK.
I Love Snob boutique shop - Tiverton, Devon
I Love Snob boutique shop – Tiverton, Devon

There’re coffee shops, small galleries displaying local art, there’s the local Pannier Market that operates a traditional food hall and arts and crafts every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday.

Tiverton Pannier Market, Tiverton, Devon, UK
Tiverton Pannier Market, Tiverton, Devon, UK

There’re lovely, quaint restaurants and delicatessens

Flying Pickle Deli - Tiverton, Devon, UK
Flying Pickle Deli – Tiverton, Devon, UK
Ftou Ftou restaurant - Tiverton, Devon, UK
Frou Frou restaurant – Tiverton, Devon, UK

Sights

The town also boasts a castle  – built in 1106 under Henry I’s reign and enlarged in the 13th and 14th Centuries.  The Castle itself is able to be visited from April to October, and they also offer self-catering accommodation to rent.  This is situated next to St. Peter’s Church.

Tiverton Castle, Devon, UK. OK, it's not huge, but it doesn't need to be!
Tiverton Castle, Devon, UK. OK, it’s not huge, but it doesn’t need to be!
St. Peter's Church
St. Peter’s Church

Let’s not forget Tiverton Canal . Part of the Grand Western Canal, it offers beautiful walks and a ride on a horse-drawn barge, a floating cafe, small boats to rent and a lovely thatched cottage open from Easter, offering Ploughmans lunches to eat, not forgetting Devon Cream Teas!

Tiverton Canal - Devon - UK
Tiverton Canal – Devon – UK
Enjoy a cream tea in the summer in Tiverton, Devon, UK.
Enjoy a cream tea in the summer in Tiverton, Devon, UK.

Of course, the Castle, Canal and church had been there when I lived here as a teen, but I guess I just had to get that bit older to start appreciating them.

So, when you head down to the West Country, don’t by-pass Tiverton,  Come and stop for a couple of days – see the sights.  And pop into the local Tesco’s – you might get to see their resident cat Mango:

Mango - Tiverton's Tesco cat (he even has his own Facebook page)
Mango – Tiverton’s Tesco cat (he even has his own Facebook page)

Facts about Tiverton:

  • From London Paddington Station, it takes a maximum of 3hrs 30 mins to travel by train to Tiverton Parkway station.  It can take less, depending on the train you catch. You’ll need to get a taxi into town, or wait for the (sporadic) bus as Tiverton Parkway is located out of town.
  • To catch the coach, go to London Victoria coach station and the journey (right into the centre of Tiverton) takes maximum 5hrs 40mins.  There are shorter journey times, it depends on how much you want to spend.
  • Tiverton is located just off Junction 27 of the M5 motorway.  You can drive down the M4/M5 from London, or M3/A303 if you’d like to pop in at Stonehenge on the way.
  • Why not also take a look at the small village of Bickleigh which boasts a Mill and The Fisherman’s Cot – a famous pub by the river where Art Garfunkel is said to have penned “Bridge Over Troubled Water.”

If you’re looking for accommodation in Tiverton, head to this link: Enjoy Bed & Breakfasts all over the World with Booking.com!

I think it’s safe to say, there’s plenty more exploring to be done and I’m looking forward to my next visit home.

exploring-thequaint-towns-ofdevon-uk

Meeting the Athens Insiders

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Who are the Athens Insiders?  Their site describes them as

Α dynamic travel company composed of a team of individuals with diverse life stories, interests, and passions, united by their love for travel.

They are keen to offer visitors to Athens – and Greece – authentic experiences of their country, of which they are very passionate about.  Therefore, I was delighted when they offered me the opportunity to join their Tsipouro Tasting & Walking Tour in Athens. 

I would be joining a German couple who had booked the tour – Athens Insiders are very good in that they offer very personalized tours from two to usually a maximum of eight participants.

Wandering through Syntagma Square at Christmas 2014
Wandering through Syntagma Square at Christmas 2014

Sitting in the lobby of the Fresh Hotel, bang on 5pm Yannis, our guide, entered Reception.  It was obvious he was our guide as he sported a large “Athens Insiders” badge on his jacket.  Yannis’s specialisation is fine foods and wines as he spent the last decade in London, working in the wine industry – our perfect guide for the tsipouro tasting.

Introductions all around with the German couple who booked the tour, and then off we went.

Tailor made

Athens Insiders are unique – in my opinion – as they don’t run to a strict, “by the book” schedule.  Yannis ensured that he understood what the needs were of his two guests and we wandered around the Athenian neighbourhoods of Psirri, Thission and Monisteraki.

Stopping on the Athens Insiders tour of Athens to drink 'tea' from the root of an orchid
Stopping on the Athens Insiders tour of Athens to drink ‘tea’ from the root of an orchid

Yannis took time asking the ‘right’ questions, really getting to know his guests and ensuring they received a visual flavour of Athens, enthusiastic in his responses.

Athens Insider guide - Yannis - getting to know his guests
Athens Insider guide – Yannis – getting to know his guests

An approx. 2.5 hour walking tour of Athens ended in the tsipouro tasting at Manas Kouzina Kouzina where samples of mezedes were also served.

I actually arrived there early and sat down to a full meal.

More on the Athens Insiders can be viewed here:

Thank you for hosting me on such a tour.  Athens Insiders also operate small group and tailor made tours around Greece.  Don’t hesitate to contact them and be safe in the knowledge you’ll be receiving a very personalised experience with locals who’re passionate and knowledgeable about all things Greek.

beyondbextakes-a-look

nice ‘n’ easy restaurant – Athens

Yes, that is actually the name of the restaurant!  I was invited out to dinner the other night with a good friend and her husband.

It’s a bio and organic restaurant – you’ll love it!

she enthused.  Hmm, I wasn’t so sure.  Not having had much experience of bio restaurants – admittedly – I pictured grass on the menu and raw meat (OK, not literally, but you get my drift).

How wrong could I be?

What’s in a name

Apparently, the name nice ‘n’ easy was inspired by the Frank Sinatra song.  They feel it envoked ‘a glamorous era when classic values stated a simple, yet [styalistic] lifestyle – and Frank can be seen, presiding over the every day running of the restaurant (along with Marilyn).

nice 'n' easy restaurant - Kifissia, Athens
nice ‘n’ easy restaurant – Kifissia, Athens

Their food is contemporary Mediterranean cuisine ‘with a special emphasis on organic, local, fair trade ingredients and antioxidant recipes.’  In fact, they even breed their own water buffalo for certain dishes in their organic farm in Northern Greece, near Thessaloniki.

Dishes

No need for me to be concerned – not a hint of grass anywhere (except the park nearby).  There are three locations for the restaurant:

  • Central Athens
  • The Island of Mykonos
  • The northern suburb of Athens – Kifissia.

It was the latter that I went to with my friend.  I ordered a Marvin Gaye, gluten free water buffalo burger with a side of mashed potato (organically grown).  Yes, you’ve guessed correctly, all food is named after a famous person.

Great menu - at great prices at nice 'n' easy - Athens
Great menu – at great prices at nice ‘n’ easy – Athens
My gluten free Marvyn Gaye burger at nice 'n' easy - Kifissia, Athens
My gluten free Marvin Gaye burger at nice ‘n’ easy – Kifissia, Athens

Nope, I couldn’t eat all of it – but that’s not because I didn’t like it, I just needed to leave room for the Banoffe pie (of course!)  Yes, this even had a healthy element to it too – all ingredients fresh.

Banoffe pie at nice 'n' easy - Kifissia, Athens
Banoffe pie at nice ‘n’ easy – Kifissia, Athens

Overall impression? Yes, I’d go back.  Not only is the food good, it’s a relaxed and informal atmosphere.

And there’s nothing like eating a burger and feeling healthy, not to mention a delicious dessert!

Follow nice ‘n’ easy on Facebook.  Be sure to visit them in Central Athens or Mykonos when you go.

Portes Magazine – a piece of Greece

I heard about Portes Magazine through a friend of a friend, but wasn’t entirely sure about its background or what to expect. So when I was offered the chance to interview one of its founding developers and executive editors—Anthe Mitrakos—I jumped at the chance.

The Magazine

Intelligent, chic, and visually compelling with a unique layout and elegant matte cover design, Portes Magazine is a high-quality publication addressing a creative and intellectual audience that appreciates a colourful yet sophisticated approach to storytelling.

The word Portes means “doors” in Modern Greek. Anthe helped me to understand that the magazine’s title signifies an unlocking of the past, seeing into the future….an opening of a door into Greece, if you will. This is why you’ll see, on every issue’s front and back cover, pictures of Greek doors. The magazine is also deliberately set up with no contents on the front cover.

“I want people to ‘open the door’ to see what’s inside…to open the door to a fresh, authentic, modern, and positive side of Greece.”

Anthe informed me.

P1020166
Anthe Mitrakos – Portes Magazine, a great achievement

Which leads me nicely onto…

What was the idea behind Portes?

Anthe is a Greek American, born and raised in Chicago. She’s young—very young (think 20s). When I queried why she started Portes and what brought her to Greece, she shifts in her seat, slightly embarrassed.

You may think I’m crazy. So many people wonder why I gave up my business journalism career to move to Greece, especially now.

(She was a full time Business Healthcare reporter, reporting on pharmaceutical company earnings, CEO compensation, health care politics, and medical lawsuits, among other things.)

But my creative side and love for Greece were just not satisfied enough at the time.

No—she’s not crazy at all. I actually started to see some personal similarities in this girl.

Disconnect

During her time in the States, Anthe noticed a disconnect in the way the Greek diaspora there viewed Greece, and the Greek reality.

I wanted to close the gap between Greece and the Greek diaspora communities in the U.S., to bring a piece of Greece home to the U.S…. and I did it in a way that I knew best, by creating a magazine which allowed me to be both serious and creative.

With a motive to correct the wide misrepresentation of Greece as a country from 2008 onwards (I hear you Anthe!), she set out to start to bridge that gap. Hence in July 2012, Portes was launched as a bi-annual publication.
Featuring authentic content—interviews, articles, stories, photography all celebrating Greece, and no advertisements, Anthe and her co-editor sister Vasiliki made the start in showcasing Greece in its true light, to show the diaspora and, indeed, the world, the true country.

Sacrifices

Giving up her fulltime job to pursue freelance writing, editing, and magazine production, Anthe and her sister—who received a Fulbright grant—both came to Athens and Portes went from strength to strength. With a small staff of passionate volunteer contributors and photographers, Portes is now a print and digital quarterly publication – the only one of its type celebrating Greece. Collectable print copies can be bought online for $15 ( including shipping.)
Note: You can get your own copy of Portes by subscription at www.portesmagazine.com
It was a real honour, and refreshing to meet someone so entrepreneurial minded as Anthe; someone who wants to do something for her country, and she’s not financially gaining from this—rather the reward seems to come in the knowledge that she can be a cog in the wheel of people who are trying to turn the image of Greece around.
Thanks for your time, Anthe. I know we will cross paths again.


Header image courtesy of and ©Portes Magazine.

A Girl’s Guide to Travelling Alone – an anthology

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Women have the capacity to be incredibly brave, especially when travelling.  There have been many articles debating the issue, over recent years, whether women should travel solo, if it’s safe to, etc. Indeed, my site predominantly features me travelling solo – and Gemma Thompson is one such fellow female traveller who helps us dispel the myth that women shouldn’t head off on their own and explore beyond their comfort zone.

Here, she shares her story with Life Beyond Borders and how a Girl’s Guide to Travelling Alone came about.


Eleven years ago, Gemma Thompson was on her very first solo backpacking trip, heading to Bangkok via a two night stay in Dubai, with the intention to trek all throughout Asia. To keep her company, she brought along the works of male travel writers like Michael Palin and Bill Bryson, but quickly concluded that the narratives lacked a perspective closer to her own.

Gemma felt that travel stories like hers could better help advise and accompany female travellers – or at the very least, serve as solidarity while on the road.

Gemma Thompson - A Girl's Guide to Travelling Alone
Gemma Thompson – A Girl’s Guide to Travelling Alone

Gemma soon came up with A Girls’ Guide to Travelling Alone – a concept for a book that features different stories, all from different women.

True stories from women travellers who have experienced all manner of unexpected ups and downs – a humorous, heartwarming, and sometimes slightly scary on-the-road companion for single female travellers. She hopes the guide will inspire more women to grab their backpacks and passports and go on an adventure.


I feel privilaged to have been featured in this Anthology – my short story “A Life Well Travelled” is aimed at giving everyone hope and desire to travel, and to know that you – too – can do it alone.

 

 

Athens Segway Tour

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I’d seen them dotting around the place – you know, those two wheeler ‘thingies’ with people wizzing around the place, knocking over unsuspecting pedestrians (OK, not quite, but you know what I mean).

But what, exactly, is a Segway?

This Daily Telegraph article describes it as “…a two-wheeled electric vehicle used as a convenient way to travel around towns and cities.”  Apparently they can reach a top speed of 12.5 miles.  That may not sound like a lot, but trust me, it can feel like it is!

They’ve become quite popular over the years, with Segway Tours operating in most major worldwide cities such as Paris, Amsterdam, Rome and Chicago (to name but a few)—so I was delighted when Segway Athens offered to host me on one of their tours.

On the Segway. Yes, pure concentration on my face!
On the Segway. Yes, pure concentration on my face!

Safety

Upon arrival in their offices, we were first given a demonstration as to how to use the Segway. Basically, you use your body to control it…don’t lean forward too much though, otherwise you’ll go shooting off down the street!
The Segway cleverly works out your balance level for you, thus helping you to get the hang of it. There aren’t any brakes on a Segway—unlike a bicycle, so you have to control it completely with your body. It’s actually very good for balance and posture, a good workout! I have to admit to feeling pretty scared first of all: would I fall off, hit someone? We were given plenty of time, however, to ensure we were comfortable with it before we set off with Panos, our tour guide…on a two hour Acropolis tour (59 Euros per person). We could also wear bicycle helmets if we wanted to.

P1010976

The Tour

Segway Tours in Athens is good in that all their tour guides are registered and have a vast amount of knowledge—Panos was no exception and speaks English fluently, German, French and a little bit of Russian. Two hours flew by (pardon the pun) as he guided us through the streets of Plaka, Thission and around the Acropolis and the Areopagus (“Hill of Mars” – or “The Acropolis Rocks” as I call them). We had plenty of time to stop, take photos, either idle on the Segway or step off completely. By the time we arrived back at their offices, I was actually quite sorry to say goodbye to my mechanical friend.

Our tour guide in action
Our tour guide in action

For more tours and their prices, check out Athens Segway’s website. They cater to individuals and small groups to big tours from visiting cruise ships, etc.  I took part in one of their Classic Tours but they also run New Tours and Special Tours.  I particularly like the look of the Athens Night Tour and think I shall be going back in the near future to do this.

Look out for a Segway Tour in your nearest city. Whether you’re a tourist or a local, it’s a novel way of seeing a place, and less tiring than walking. As Paniotis pointed out, what used to take 4-5 hours can now take 2 hours, in a more fun and entertaining way (so long as you all behave yourselves and not try to act like a teenager trying to pull a wheelie on a bike! Yes, Panos had some tales to tell there…)

Author Interview – Samantha Verant – Seven Letters from Paris

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Samantha Vérant is a brave girl. Unhappy with her seemingly perfect all American lifestyle—and, in all honesty, in debt up to her eyeballs—she happened upon seven letters written to her from a chance encounter with a Frenchman in Paris twenty something years ago.

And so Seven Letters from Paris is born.

A true love story about how Samantha turns her life around, and how fairy tales can, actually, come true (and I am usually a pretty cynical individual!).

Instead of spoiling the plot for all you lovely readers, I thought I’d take the chance to interview Samantha, let her voice shine through.

Samantha, Seven Letters from Paris takes us through what you went through in order to put your life back on track again. Was there a pivotal moment when you realised that your current life couldn’t go on the way it was?

While some of the negative areas in my life had built up over time, it felt as if everything had hit at once. I was the recent victim of a job lay-off and had no prospects for employment, thanks to the recession. The bills were piling up. My dog was in bad health. I was severely unhappy with my then marriage. Plus, my fortieth birthday loomed around the corner. Seriously, the song of my life played out like a depressing country song, save for owning a shotgun and a pickup truck. I had a choice: suffer a nervous breakdown…or change everything in my life.

What made you remember and reach for those letters written to you, all those years ago?

It was actually a ‘who’ that inspired me to unearth the letters.

The sweeping changes I needed to make were overwhelming and I needed advice. Instead of spinning my wheels on the corner of misery and despair all alone (break out the tiny violins!), I met up with my best friend of twenty-something years, Tracey. Over a bottle of Pinot Noir, our conversation changed from my imminent divorce and my problems to happier times, specifically our 1989 trip to Paris. Tracey pitched me an idea: we were going to create a love blog using the seven old love letters I’d received from Jean-Luc, the sexy French rocket scientist I’d met at a café when I was nineteen. Intrigued (and looking for an ounce of hope), I pulled Jean-Luc’s letters out of their plastic storage container that very same night. The rest, as they, is history.

Jumping ahead, you now live in France. What have been/are the biggest challenges for an American adapting to life in France? I remember where you walk us through the bureaucracy of the country when trying to get married—any other examples?

Where do I begin?

There were so many adjustments and challenges! Along with the difficulties of speaking a language I hadn’t spoken in twenty years, coming to understand the different customs and cultural differences (for example: don’t place your hands on your lap at the dinner table because people will wondering what you’re doing!), obtaining a French drivers license, and becoming an immigrant with all the bureaucracy at the local prefecture, I also had to adjust to instant motherhood. See, I didn’t marry just Jean-Luc; I’d married his two tween-aged kids. I had so much to learn and I had to do it quick. Before I cracked under all the pressure, I signed up on an Expat blog, which was one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. It’s extremely important for expats to reach out to others who have gone through–or are going through–everything you’re going through or you will explode. It’s also important to carve a life for yourself outside of the family life. Now, I have a whole crew of people to call on, including three new best friends.

Any plans to write another memoir to show us where you’re at now? I, for one, would love to know how your fairy-tale life is panning out!

Yes, I do have plans for memoir book two.

In fact, I’ve already written 35k of it. It picks up where SEVEN LETTERS FROM PARIS leaves off, covering the above mentioned adjustments in great detail and with, I hope, humor. I jump into a new life in France, but forgot to pack a parachute. But as I settle into this life and Jean-Luc’s children and I become closer, and as the relationship with Jean-Luc and I intensifies, no matter how horrible things appear, I remind myself I have love on my side. And with love on my side I can do anything (including renovating a kitchen and building a bedroom– the true test of any relationship!) Memoir book two will be another love story, but the focus will be on family. Of course, there will be some romance. Maybe I’ll finally get back to Paris with Jean-Luc? Or go on a honeymoon? Neither of these things have happened…yet.

Many thanks to SourceBooks for offering me the opportunity to have an advance copy of Seven Letters… and the opportunity to preview before release in October 2014.

Hiya Oia! The Best of Santorini – A guest post

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This article is provided by First Choice Holidays

Oia is perhaps the most famous village on the idyllic Greek island of Santorini. Famed for its stunning sunsets and picturesque villas and vistas, this charming spot is one of Greece’s most alluring islands. Perched atop a staggering cliff, the views from Oia stretch out over the Aegean all the way to the volcanos of Palia and Nea Kameni on neighbouring island Thirassia. With many holiday companies like First Choice flying out to Greece every day, this little oasis might be closer than you think.

The village is home to the iconic whitewashed buildings and bright blue domes that make the Cyclades islands popular throughout the world. Visitors can shop, eat, swim, rest and play at any number of destinations in town catering to all variety of styles and (most) budgets. The village is quieter than neighbouring Fira and is ideal for visitors looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of Santorini crowds, which can become quite large during the high season. Here are just a few reasons why Oia is so incredible.

Have a Fresh Fish Dinner in Ammoudi

Just a short trip down 300 stairs will land visitors in the charming and compact port of Ammoudi. From here visitors can take a lovely boat trip to nearby Thirassia, take a quick dip in the crystal clear waters or sample some of the finest fresh fish you will ever taste in any one of the delicious fish taverns that surround the port. For those unable (or unwilling) to face the 300 stair return journey back up to Oia proper, there are cars and donkeys at the ready to take visitors where they need to go after a delicious meal.

Embrace the Arts

Oia is home to a host of diverse and delightful art galleries thanks in large part to its outstanding and inspiring landscapes. AK Art Gallery is the oldest on the island and you will find the contemporary work of Yorgos Kypris at the Mati Art Gallery. While the village itself isn’t very big, and certainly doesn’t take too much time to wander through, perusing the works of art in these local galleries can take hours, if not an entire afternoon.

Walk and Wander

One of the best- and cheapest- things to do in Oia is to simply wander around. Walking through the village provides unparalleled views and the chance to stop and chat with the very friendly locals who may even teach you a Greek phrase or two. Walking along the village’s main street is a charming excursion and culminates across the top of the cliff which is the perfect place to take in one of the Oia’s world famous sunsets.

Oia sunset santorini photo
Photo by somma1977

Hit the Beach

Visitors to Oia have a few great beaches to choose from. Amoudi beach is one of the best beaches in all of Santorini offering you the chance to swim in crystal clear waters surrounded by an idyllic Greek harbour with several quaint fish taverns and cafes- perfect for a late lunch or afternoon snack. Armeni beach is quite small and difficult to reach but well worth the adventure. For those willing to take another trip down 300 stairs, the beach is a lovely hideaway in which to swim in the deep blue waters, hire a lounge chair and relax under the gorgeous Greek sun.

Santorini has long been one of the most popular sunny hotspots in Greece thanks to its iconic colours, gorgeous sunsets and incredible people. Oia embodies everything that is so wonderful about Santorini in one quaint and quiet village, the perfect spot for any Greek getaway.

Photo by szeke

 

 

Raw Food and Yoga Retreat – Paros Island – Greece

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Not really knowing what to expect when I was invited to be hosted by Insight Holidays for their first Raw Food and Yoga Retreat, I happily and somewhat curiously accepted their invitation.

Hosted at the gorgeous Paros Philoxenia Hotel, located right on the sandy beach with windsurfing at your doorstep, I spent three days relaxing, cleansing and rejuvenating.

The lovely view from my balcony
The lovely view from my balcony

Raw Food

Flora in action
Flora in action

What does this conjure up for you?  Living off lettuce leaves, carrot sticks and nuts?  Well, not QUITE.  Flora G. Papadopoulou fed us a variety of ‘everyday’ dishes, but made in a raw way.  Think cheeses made from a nut base, cheesecake, milk from a nut base, pizza (yes, you guessed it, from a nut base too).  Listen, there is so much more to it than just nuts – and Flora took time to show us through a series of Workshops how to prepare the food.

A lot of time and energy put in by Flora to make us delicious meals
A lot of time and energy put in by Flora to make us delicious meals

She’s an interesting woman: she professes to have been ‘born’ vegetarian i.e.: ‘abhorring the consumption of meat [and, in fact] other animal related foods.’  She says her childhood years were difficult, growing up in a post-war Greece int he 60s and 70s (Civil War) where meat and animal products were considered a necessity for diet.  And yet Flora never got sick.  Not ‘rarely,’ but NEVER.

Her further reasons for continuing down this path as an adult come from personal experiences of people with illnesses such as cancer and Flora’s in depth research into the damage meat and dairy can ultimately do to our long term health.

More about Flora can be found on her website. (It might only be in Greek, but do feel free to use Google Translate).

Yoga

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Now I’ve never been one to do yoga, but I have to say, these three days (albeit in a beautiful and peaceful location) helped me feel relaxed, and the yoga – with its focus on breathing and being centred – REALLY centred me.

Except for the time I had to leave the yoga room because I was in tears.  Luckily our nice American instructor – Lynn Roulo – informed me this is pretty usual for people who take up yoga: it releases a lot of ‘stuff.’ Although she DID say not usually in the first lesson (as in my case!) Hmm…

Big question: Will I keep it all up?

Well,  I wish I could say that I would continue with a raw food diet, but I will be quite happy to undergo a weekend retreat every few months or so to detoxify myself, and use soya milk instead of normal milk every day.  My busy lifestyle, alas, doesn’t mean I have the time to spend making a lot of the base ingredients.

The yoga is a different thing.  I am lucky to have found Lynn – who now lives in Athens – as she runs Yoga classes weekly (I just hope I don’t continue to cry every lesson).

I took this opportunity to find out more about Lynn and the Insight Holidays concept:

When did you first come to Greece?

For a vacation in 2007. I liked it but had no thought of moving to Greece at that time. Then many years later (around late 2010) the idea to move to Athens began to come into my mind–randomly but very clearly. I came in May 2011 for one month to see what Athens was like, in Sept-Oct 2011 for two months to make sure I really liked it and moved to Greece in Feb 2012.

How long have you been practising Kundaini Yoga?

I started in 2007 (around the same time I came to Greece, ironically) as a result of a difficult breakup. I found the practice made me feel better each time I took a class so I started taking more classes, workshops, etc. After I got through the difficult period, I wanted to explore Kundalini yoga more so I took teacher training in late 2008-2009. I started teaching in 2009 and have been teaching ever since.

What made you want to stay here?

It could probably best be described as a calling of sorts–I had no official reason to come to Greece: (no job, no man, no family heritage to explore). The thoughts started coming clearly into my head and it seemed harder to ignore them than to explore them. That said, moving here has hands down been the best decision of my life. I love Greece. I love the tempo of life here, the warmth of the people, the energy of Athens, the light, the food, the fact that 7:00 pm is still considered afternoon, many many things.

Why do you want to start Insight Holidays?

Primarily because I wanted to share the things that helped me initiate positive change in my life. 5 years ago, I was spending my time as a CPA/finance consultant in a relatively boring 9-5 job working in a sea of cubes. On the weekends I did the usual things (dining out, athletic activities, parties, etc.). I had a “good” life but it felt oddly flat. Now I teach yoga on my roof deck with a view of Acropolis. I get to travel. I’m learning Greek. I meet new and interesting people. And when I wake up, I feel really energized about life. Insight Holidays is a summary of the system that helped me move from my old life to my new life. And we have the retreats in holiday settings because having fun is a priority for me.

So there you have it everyone!  I do hope you’ll look closely at Insight Holidays and the type of breaks they offer.

Cally’s Way – a novel set in Crete

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Cally’s an intriguing lass. A young woman of mixed heritage living in Canada, upon her mother’s death she feels that the answer to her mother’s distant behavior lies in discovering more about her parent’s background, so she takes herself off to Crete. As is the way with all things Greek, she discovers much more than she bargained for, and more about herself in the process.

Review copy provided free of charge by Jane Bow.

Cally’s Way is a novel written by Jane Bow. I loved the book, especially the fact that I was learning about Greek history (from World War II) in the form of fiction, making it interesting reading. I am delighted to have the opportunity to interview Jane.

Jane, you’re Canadian and as far as I know, with no connections to Greece. Is this correct and if so, what made you want to write a novel based in Crete/amongst Greek culture?

My connection to Crete goes back to 2001.

Crete photo

The ancient Minoan civilization fascinated me so when an uncle left me some money, I went to Crete with my teenaged daughter, to write for six weeks in the spring. I spoke not a word of Greek and had nothing in common with the women in our mountain village on the south coast, so was stunned to find myself feeling utterly, viscerally and completely at home there. Was it because I spent formative childhood years in Spain, on this same Mediterranean, playing and learning and living in Spanish? Crete’s barren mountains and salt sea air, fishing boats and laden donkeys, its people’s voices pulsing with animation returned me to the life I had lost at the age of ten.

Crucible for creativity

Also, this island, where so many of the Greek myths were born, is a crucible for creativity. You are so close to earth and rock and sea and sky, and to nature’s ruthless elements. All you have to do is sit and wait and the imagination opens… Finally, I am a writer, my language and culture both founded on ideas such as democracy, psychology (Greek words) and justice, which took root here several thousand years ago.

We fell in love with Crete

We quickly fell in love with Crete, explored the island, and discovered its dramatic World War II resistance to a horrific German occupation. And one morning the plot of Cally’s Way dropped into my head. I have returned nearly every year since then, gradually shaping, colouring and interweaving Cally’s and her grandmother Callisto’s stories.

Cally’s Way is special because it provides a lot of historical facts (the evacuation of the allies from Crete, what happened to the Greeks during and after World War II at the hands of the Germans and British) yet in an interesting way.

How long did it take you to research the book and did you encounter any problems/resistance?

Cally’s Way took me twelve years to write. While the characters are fictitious, events during and after World War II are drawn from factual records: books about the island’s history, records in museum display cases, interviews. I was trying to reach behind battle facts, however, to imagine life during the war for Crete’s women, who played such an active role. Most important were the stories told to me by my friends in Crete, whose families hold memories of that time.

Overcoming prejudice

My biggest problem, which also became a blessing, was overcoming my own prejudice. Reading about whole village populations being locked in their church and burned alive, or lined up and shot, gave me a poor view of Germans. But real life is never one-dimensional.

It was Cretans who taught me to see clearly. “These Germans are not those Germans”

German tourists now come to Crete in droves. “How do you feel about that?” I asked the elderly curator of a history museum who had fought with the Cretan Resistance as a teenager. His smile was gentle. “These Germans are not those Germans.” Up on the Nida Plateau, above the village of Anogia, where the Germans shot every male, the women have laid stones out in the shape of a huge head to commemorate the young German paratroopers who died there. Why? Because these were just young boys, as lost to their mothers as were the Cretan boys.

Forgiveness allows vision. Through it I was able to create a nuanced story in which collaboration, betrayal are also part of the balance.

I loved the characters in the book, you have a knack of making them so real. An obvious question: was Cally based on any one person and where her experiences ‘real’?

I am so glad they came alive for you, because my characters are as real to me as material people. Neither Cally nor Callisto is based on any one person. Their stories have their roots in what was happening in their moments in history, but their circumstances are uniquely their own. They do both share views and feelings — fear, love, confusion, disillusionment, sexual desire — that I have known in different contexts. I am a very determined woman, for example. Callisto’s steely resolve probably came from my imagined rendering of how girls doing her job must have felt. I am also quick to leave the confining borders of everyday life, risking adventures that bring me close, sometimes, to the raw stuff of life. It was not hard to imagine Cally’s decisions and where they took her.

Some of my characters’ experiences came right out of mine.

As a girl I loved to run. So does Callisto. Another example: one day in Crete, after a visit to Preveli Monastery, a storm caught me on the headland overlooking Limni Beach, where pivotal action takes place. I watched a curtain of driving rain sweep down the mountainside, then felt its cold needle stings on my face. Giving Cally that very same moment was wonderful fun.

Where, in the end, is the line between fact and fiction? By the time my novels are finished, sometimes not even I am sure!

I hope you’ll all take the chance to read Cally’s Way. I’d highly recommend it and I hope—Jane—that you’ll consider picking up your pen where we left Cally!

Thanks for this interview, Bex, for giving me the chance to share some of the truths behind the fiction that is Cally’s Way.

Cally’s Way can be purchased through Amazon (links above) or any online retailer.  Also if you find yourself in Crete, pop into Carol’s Workshop, Myrthios, Crete.  She sells them too (an inspiration for a character in the book??).

Top five things about life in South Korea

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The League of Expat Writer’s has been rather silent for a while.  We’re back now!  Meagan – an American in South Korea – shares her experience with us.

I moved to South Korea 3.5 years ago and the country stole my heart. I was amazed at how easily I adjusted to life here. The people are so friendly, the food is fantastic and I even met the love of my life here (though he isn’t Korean).

Living in Asia can be challenging at times because it’s very different from the western world. Personally, I try to keep an open mind and embrace the differences. I actually find myself drawn to all of the little quirks of living here. It was hard to narrow it down, but I picked my top 5 quirky things that will make you fall in love with Korea.

Matching Couples

One of the cutest things you can find in Korea are the couples (and families) that wear identical outfits. In fact, my neighborhood in Korea has two different shops that sell couple clothes. It’s not unusual to see couples that match from head to toe: hats, shirts, jackets, jeans, shoes, and backpacks. They even sell couple underwear!

 

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Poop Obsession

When I was teaching I’d often hear the little kids saying, “D-D-O-N-G” which is the Romanization of the word poop in Korean. I thought it was just kids being kids, but I’m pretty sure there’s more to it than that. Poop seems to be everywhere. I found a pair of socks with a cute little pile of cartoon poo on them at the dollar store, but poop isn’t just for decoration on footwear. I’ve seen headbands with a big plush poo on top. Also, in Seoul you can find snacks called poop bread that are shaped like poop with sweetened red bean paste inside.

Recently we went to a museum that was shaped like a toilet and had statues of poop and people pooping surrounding the grounds.

 [Bex thinks “Oh dear!”]

Poop Museum (Meagan kids you not!)
Poop Museum (Meagan kids you not!)

 

Displays of Affection

You won’t see many couples kissing in public in Korea, but Koreans are extremely affectionate. I’m always blown away by how many people that walk around arm-in-arm, holding hands or with their arms around one another… and I’m not talking about couples! When I was a teenager the last thing I would have wanted to be seen doing in public was holing my mom’s hand, but it’s so common here. It’s also really common to see men being affectionate towards one another. When I was teaching elementary/primary age kids it wasn’t unusual for little boys to play with each other’s hair or sit on each other’s laps.

 

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Sex Parks

And yet, for a culture that seems to be so prudish (showing cleavage or shoulder is seen as taboo), there are several parks with a very sexual theme. I know of at least three, plus I know of a few penis-themed restaurants and cafes. The most popular sex themed park is Loveland on Jeju Island. Its intention was to teach its visitors about sex education, but some of its sculptures are more bizarre than educational.

 

Sex Park
Sex Park

 

Theme Cafes

Korea has tons of cafes with cute themes. There are princess cafes where you can actually rent dresses and play dress up while you enjoy a refreshing beverage and cat and dog cafes where you can play with the animals. The strangest I’ve ever heard about is a café with a live sheep in Seoul. One of my favorite theme cafes is the Hello Kitty Café. There are at least four of them in Korea, including one in the Incheon International Airport near Seoul.

 

 

I honestly wish more people would visit Korea so that they could see the country that I’ve been lucky enough to call my home for the past 3.5 years. I’ve had a lot of ups and downs while being here, but these 5 little quirks always make me smile!


BIO: Meagan is an American that moved to South Korea in 2011 to teach English. While there, she was swept off her feet by an Australian oil and gas expat that turned her into stay-at-home-girlfriend and takes her on amazing adventures all over the world. She blogs all about her travels at Life Outside Of Texas. You can also find her on Facebook and Twitter.

If you enjoyed this post, why not read about the seven (or more) top things I love about Greece?

Photo by k.kazantzoglou Life is full of surprises!!! 🙂

Bickleigh Mill – Mid-Devon

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This week I’m visiting family in mid-Devon, situated in the West Country of the UK.

Having hailed from this neck of the woods, it’s rare that I venture out to go visiting tourist places, but sometimes it’s nice to make the effort to – and often one can be surprised what you come across in your own area.

Bickleigh Mill – a brief history

I’d always heard of and driven past Bickleigh Mill on the way to Exeter, but it’d been years since I’d been in.  The mill as seen today was built in the late 18th century and milled corn until floods devastated the area in the 1960s.

The early 70s saw the Mill and Farm developed into the Devonshire Centre where the place became a working farm, craft centre and mill.

The water wheel
The water wheel

Today

Gorgeous setting
Gorgeous setting

The farm’s now privately owned, but the Mill has been retained as a craft centre and Bistro restaurant open for lunches and dinners.  Nestled in the River Exe Valley, I found it a lovely afternoon out to wander around the grounds, look at the local wares for sale and sit and bask in the (rare) English sunshine with peacocks strutting around, marveling at the greenery of the countryside around.

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My father and I had a great time – and I’d recommend it as a place to take kids too (there were certainly plenty there when we went!).

Quite happily wandering around the grounds
Quite happily wandering around the grounds

Patmos – Dodecanese

Patmos is renowned for the Apocalypse of St. John. It’s a popular tourist destination for religious groups and cruise ships alike. I found my Saint, but his name was Panagos. He was located in the little village of Kambos, just opposite the church, and he offered me aubergine stuffed with feta and fresh tomatoes, for 9 euros. I’m glad I found him and had a food revelation instead of an apocalypse…besides, St. John’s cave—alas—was full of workmen drilling, sawing and scaffolding when I went. I doubt this is the apocalypse St. John envisaged, or maybe it was.

My 'saint' at his taverna
My ‘saint’ at his taverna

Panagos’s taverna is popular at lunchtimes with tourists, on their way to one of Patmos’s many beaches—locals also frequent it, all year.
My female Saint was Elina, owner of the Porto Scoutari Hotel where I was kindly hosted for the duration of my visit.

Hotel Porto Scoutari. Lovely bedrooms
Hotel Porto Scoutari. Lovely bedrooms

Every morning, irrespective of the time she had gone to bed the previous night (sometimes at 5am because she was personally welcoming arriving guests from an early ferry), she would be there at 8am at breakfast, speaking to every table individually and taking time to listen, ask them personal questions and making one feel as if you had made a friend for life. She took me under her wing, in my guise as Rough Guide co-author. People—sometimes—can’t do enough for you on these islands.

Shepherd

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The shepherd would wave to me every morning as I watched the sun rise from my balcony. It reminded me of an encounter with one of my students years ago:
He was a particularly stroppy seventeen year old and had no intention of learning English.

What do you want to be when you leave school?

I enquired.

A fireman

he grumbled.

Well, that’s a really worthwhile and rewarding career. Imagine if you helped some tourist and had to speak English to them?

(I had to think on my feet)

Well I’ll become a shepherd instead. At least I won’t have to talk to anyone

he smirked back.
At the time I just had to shrug (I think I suggested he could always talk to the goats in English)—looking at the times we live in now, and this rural scene, you know what? Maybe my student had the right idea all along.

All opinions expressed here are my own.

Nisyros – Dodecanese

I loved Nisyros!  Why?  Because it was, to me, what a traditional Greek island should be: tiny winding streets, friendly locals, rustic buildings.

People go to Nisyros to see the volcano, the whole island is built around the cone of it.  This, therefore, makes Nisyros pretty hot, a little smelly and with black sand around its coastline.

But that doesn’t mean it’s not a beautiful place – far from it!  Expect fantastic sunsets, beautiful architecture and the ‘true’ Greece.

I was hosted by the Romantzo Hotel, a family run establishment – my favourite types- walking distance from the harbour and onthe road away from town.  But the rooms were a little small – be warned.  They do have different sized ones – make sure you ask for a large room.  All have a small terraced balcony though, so that makes relaxing easier.

View from hotel terrance
View from hotel terrance

Anyway here, in pictures, is my Nisyros.

What's down this side street?
What’s down this side street?
Traditional island housing
Traditional island housing
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Volcanic landscape

All opinions expressed here are my own.

Tilos – Dodecanese

There’s not a lot I feel I can say about Tilos really. It has the main port town, Livadhia…then the Hora, about 20 mins drive uphill. And that’s about it.  That, and the fact it is beautiful.

Greek island life

Dining with a view
Dining with a view

OK, it has a dramatic coastline, lovely beaches here and there—Plaka is out of the way and accessible by car. If you’re wanting a slice of tiny Greek island life, then Tilos is the place to come. The lovely Hotel Faros hosted my stay (faros means Lighthouse in Greek) and whilst it was located a good 25 min walk from the promenade of Livadhia, it was worth being located just out of town, with beautiful views from your balcony and the terraced restaurant area. Plus they are a huge fan of Rough Guides, so this helped.

View from my hotel room at Hotel Faros
View from my hotel room at Hotel Faros

Tips for Tilos

  • Come and stay for 3 or 4 days max. It’s popular for hiking and birdwatching, so if this is your thing, you’ll love it.
  • It’s windy in June, hence cooler at night. This makes it a lovely, refreshing place to visit.
  • Tilos is small, so be sure you’re OK with small Greek islands, hence why I recommend only a few days stopover.
  • It may be small, but it’s beautiful, especially if you hire a car and drive around the mountain hugging roads to the monasteries.

Have fun! I preferred Symi to be honest, with its architecture and cosy feel; there were too many hotels catering to huge tour groups in Tilos…but different strokes for different folks.

All opinions expressed here are my own

Rhodes, Dodecanese

Rhodes—what can I say? Most of you will have heard of it…it’s one of the most visited Greek islands.

I arrived by airplane from Karpathos—and received a bit of a culture shock. I left a remote island, where some of the locals still dress in national costume and didn’t get electricity until the 1970s, to come to a bustling metropolis. Standing by the luggage carousel at Rhodes International Arrivals, I was somewhat snobbily dismayed to see beer bellied, loud tourists. Oh well, tourism has to suit all sorts.

A magical place

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But once I exited and found the anxious looking taxi driver with my name, I was whisked away to a magical place. Nestled in the Old Town lies The Spirit of the Knights Boutique Hotel, who were my kind hosts for two nights.

A welcoming glass of beer awaited me, and I relaxed in the gardens, the only sounds that of running water, birds and Earl Gray, the adopted cat purring at my feet.

Old Town

P1010297I took a wander around the Old Town, a legacy of the Knights of St. John—and loved getting lost in back lanes, not a soul in sight. Yes, around the corner might be a bustling market and taverna laden street, but around the next you could lose yourself in a maze of cobbled streets, overhead beams, cats lazing in the sun.

Bedtime

The Spirit of the Knights Boutique Hotel provides its’ guests with Cocomat bedding (see my review of their own hotel here). I felt like a Princess out of a Disney story in this bedroom, I had to quash my desire to leap on the bed and bounce up and down!

Bedroom
In my role researching for the Rough Guides, I have to say I have fallen in love with Rhodes Old Town, as the discerning traveller amongst you will too.

Food

Good for first night food is Mamma Mika; situated in a busy thoroughfare with home-cooked Greek dishes, great for people watching. Just make sure you don’t do what these people did—they came after me and left before, and not once did they look up and around them, nor chat to each other.  They even ate whilst using their phones.

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Marco Polo Café is amazing for food! Again, in the Old Town—tucked away in their Mansion Hotel courtyard, their Italian style food is to die for. Portions not too big—they understand that when the weather’s hot, huge dishes are not what’s needed. My eyes are usually bigger than my stomach anyway, so when the owner told me to trust her in bringing me out a selection of dishes to try, I put myself in her exceedingly capable hands.

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And then on to Triton Holidays, (9 Plastira St) – a short walk to the New Town.  Kim, the owner greeted me like a long lost daughter of his (yes, this is not a typo, Kim’s been in the industry for years and is definitely a ‘he’) and they helped me to book all my remaining ferry tickets and car hire.

If you’re in Rhodes for any length of time and want any travel arrangements, whether a day trip or other accommodation on other islands, their wealth of knowledge allows you to relax and put as little or as much of your planning into their hands as you like.  Very useful if you’ve a complicated island hopping itinerary.

I’ll be back in Rhodes, to explore other areas. But for now, the Old Town remains my favourite part.

My thanks extends to: Alex Marshall and family of Spirit of the Knights, the effusive Efi of Marco Polo Mansions and Café. Adrianna, Kim and family at Triton Holidays and, of course Earl Gray the cat and his extended family.

All opinions expressed here are my own.

Karpathos – Dodecanese

I am one LUCKY girl!  Yes, I was offered the chance to update the latest Rough Guide edition of Greece & the Greek Islands (due for publication 2015).  So of course I took up the opportunity to research the Dodecanese islands for them.

The Dodecanese are a chain of islands furthest from the Greek mainland, and are actually nearer Turkey.  My first port of call was Karpathos.

How did I get there?

Well, you can catch a twice weekly ferry from Piraeus, but it takes 21 hours, so I chose to take the 40 min flight option instead.

Where did I stay?

I was met by the lovely Dimitra who drove me to the Astron Hotel Bungalows who were kindly hosting me.  I won’t say too much about the accommodation here, you can read their site (and the Rough Guide when it’s released).

Euromoto in Pighadia kindly provided the car – and off I went!

Off I go!
Off I go!

Oh I have seen some beautiful locations.  Pighadia is a little on the package holiday side of tourism, but once you get out into the hills and around to the west coast and hidden coves, it’s out of this world.  A spine of mountains  – rising to over 1200m – divides the island into north/south.  And  makes for interesting driving (think many hairpins, and feeling a little sick).

As well as the beaches, I visited the traditional mountain village of Olymbos

– where the old ladies dress in traditional garb, and are quite clever at looking harmless, but then getting you to part with your money (think new pair of hand-made leather shoes for Bex).

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Under rated in my opinion is the seaside village further from Olymbos called Dhiafani.

Driving along, minding my own business an old lady is walking in the middle of the road.  I have no choice but to stop.

In she climbs to the back of my car, smiles a toothy (quite a few missing) smile, pats me on the shoulder and says

Drive

I didn’t have much choice really did I.  Off we tootle, she chatting (my Greek’s OK, but not brilliant) – me nodding and hmming and ahhing.

Her name was Eleni
Her name was Eleni

When we reach Dhiafani she climbs out, nods her thanks and off she goes.  How Greek!

I spent a pleasant afternoon researching and made time for a swim, then time for the hairpin drive back.

Thank you Karpathos, you’ve been beautiful in every sense of the word: food, breathtaking beauty but most of all – the people.  So far, it’s the people.  Let’s see if this continues throughout my trip in the Dodecanese.

All opinions offered here are my own.

Random restaurant find in Athens

What an interesting find in my neighbourhood today!  You see?  Sometimes stumbling down the wrong street is no – in fact  – wrong.

I came across To Spitiko Fagito (The House of Food) , and whilst their website will tell you all about them, I wanted to share my personal experience.

Beef, pork fillet, salmon, stuffed vegetables, pasta, chicken with potatoes?

the toothy-grinning owner offered.  Hmm, I was spoilt for choice!  All looked delicious.  And home cooked that morning.  I glanced around me at the locals sitting amongst the lovely, airy decor – and chose the chicken.

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Tucking in, I couldn’t finish it as anyone who’s familiar with Greece will know, portions are huge!  The restaurant’s been in the family for years – handed down for generations.

I was just so chuffed to find it in my nighbourhood, tucked amongst the kafineos, wisteria.  And the bill? 8 Euros 25 for a dish of chicken and potatoes, big bottle of water and bread.

Not bad eh!  I shall be going back for sure.

An oasis in Athens city on a hot day

A glorious 28 degrees today – but I am in the middle of the city! I love the southern beaches, but they’re a bit too far to venture out to by the time I managed to get out of bed.  My friend had told me about the Halandri Tennis Club, so I thought I’d give it a try.

Halandri is a suburb in the north of Athens.  Piling my lotion, swimwear and water into my gym bag, off I set.  It’s not hard to get to – the best metro stop is Nomismatokopio on the blue metro line.

From there, walk along the main Mesogion road for about 7 mins, left at the first major lights (bus area ‘Tombra’) and walk up the street for about 500 meters.  It’s well signposted.

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I entered the rather posh reception area, feeling a little under dressed. But I needn’t have worried…the receptionist didn’t bat an eyelid and quite happily took my 8 Euro entry fee.  This covered access to the pool and all facilities.

Gorgeous pool

Gorgeous pool

Making myself comfortable on a sun lounger, I decided to brave the pool which contains natural spring water from their own well – apparently.  Yes, it was chilly and took me about 10 mins to enter – but how refreshing!

Frappe?

asked the young waiter as he sauntered up to my lounger.  No, not just yet.  I was content to sip my water, people watch and bask in the sun for a few hours before heading back home for a nap.

Tennis courts
Tennis courts

The Halandri Tennis Club is a fab price and blessedly, not horrendously busy (or at least it wasn’t when I arrived at 12:30pm).  When I left about 2pm it was starting to fill up with mothers and their children, although the crowd is mixed and next to me were a couple of businessmen, and opposite by the tennis court a group of elderly gentlemen who looked like they belonged in a kafeneo!  Maybe this was their upmarket one.

Lovely bar / restaurant area to relax in
Lovely bar / restaurant area to relax in

If you’re in town for any length of time and thing you’ll frequent it often, 100 Euros will give you a month’s membership, 170 Euros two months.  I had a great time and whilst I won’t shell out for a monthly membership, I sure don’t mind spending 8 Euros to go for a swim…it beats paying a minimum of 20 Euros in a hotel pool.