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American life in a small UK seaside town

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Jessica is a former Texan, now living the expat life in a small fishing town on the coast of England. She is author of the travel blog The Fly Away American where she shares her experiences living abroad and the adventures along the way.

Here she shares with Leaving Cairo her experiences of life in Europe.

My family and I moved to England after living several years in The Netherlands, looking for a more laid-back way of life and more opportunities for our future.

I am originally from Texas and met my Dutch husband while at University, and we have a five year old daughter growing up in the midst of a cultural triangle. It is an interesting life juggling the English school system with Dutch reading lessons, all while trying to inject my own American heritage into the life of my family. I have written before about some of the silly differences as an American in England, but I have never touched on the positive aspects of our English life that have made this country a home for us. Many of them are European, some are more distinctly English, but they all make this expat life worthwhile.

The Work-Life Balance

I think most American expats in Europe will agree with me, the Europeans understand that work is not life.

It saddens me when I talk to family and friends back home who are trying to figure out how to take down time with their annual week or two of vacation time, and some of them don’t even get it paid. In England we have around a month of holiday to work with each year, and employers seem more understanding when you need an afternoon off for personal reasons. I love that work is simply that, and that our life is separate from how we get our income.

 The Pub Life

Pubs in England are not only for drunks and partiers,very often they are family affairs.

Our local neighborhood pub has playground equipment in the garden, encouraging families in the area to bring along their kids when they want to enjoy a pint. This concept was very strange to me at first, especially since you can’t even enter most bars in America if you are under 21. This is one we have definitely embraced, and enjoy living in a country where drinking is not taboo.

The World at Your Doorstep

We live in a small town on the coast, home to the Eurotunnel and only a fifteen minute drive from Dover’s ferry port.

The white cliffs of Dover
The white cliffs of Dover

It only takes around thirty minutes for us to go from our town in England to France with the former, and less than two hours by ferry. I feel incredibly lucky to have the perks of English life on a daily basis, with the ability to escape to Continental Europe whenever we need a real croissant or a little more sunshine. It also makes it easy when we go back to The Netherlands, and enables family and friends to easily visit us as well. On the other side of things, London is only an hour away- a destination where you can escape in itself. I have had so many opportunities as an expat here and I feel privileged to be able to explore this world on a whim.

English Wonder

England itself offers so much to see and do.

I never imagined in my wildest dreams that I would be spending my weekends visiting castles and palaces and looking out over the sea from world-famous clifftops. I love the simplest things most, the things I never experienced in my own childhood living a seven hour drive from the ocean. Rockpooling is one of my new favorite summer pastimes, I never get over seeing starfish or anemone without paying admission for an aquarium. We have mountains, forests, flowered fields and great cities. You can find every type of food in the world, our local Nepalese is amongst the best in the country. (If you have never had a momo, I encourage you to go find one now.)

Queen's Jubilee - embracing British life
Queen’s Jubilee – embracing British life

Cultural Diversity

England is extremely diverse, especially when you are around the London area.

When living in The Netherlands I met only a handful of Americans randomly, and sometimes sat in Amsterdam just to hear the annoying tourists speak American English. I can hardly visit London without meeting a new American, half of which seem to be from Texas as well. I have friends from every corner of the globe, and I love it.

The Challenges

The challenges of living in England are few, but they do exist. Every day I deal with my daughter and her ever evolving identity.

She isn’t English, but she speaks with an English accent, goes to an English school, and identifies with the English way of life. As a family who has no ties to England other than that we live here, we do our best to celebrate holidays from our own countries, eat American (Southern) and Dutch foods, and teach her about where she came from. It can be hard though. She thinks my American English is ‘wrong’ and is consistently stubborn when it comes to speaking Dutch. There are days that is can be frustrating, but overall I am so happy that she is able to have these experiences. I hope that as she grows her multi-cultural background will become a part of who she is, and will be able to embrace it rather than reject the abnormal.

Other Challenges

The rest of the challenges are insignificant, and though I see expats tear apart the country they now call home over such silly things, I don’t give them that much weight. The houses are small and crowded, we lack the same technologies that are standard in American households, and the french fries (chips) never seem to be fully cooked. These types of challenges don’t define your life, and it should go without saying that you can’t expect the same exact life you had back in your home country.

But really, why would you want to?

The best part of expat life is the challenges. Things that put you out of your element, and encourage personal growth. My family and I plan on moving on from England in a few years and exploring somewhere new, but for now I will take every moment and opportunity I am given to take full advantage of English life.

You can follow Jessica as follows:

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New York, New York – A Wonderful Town

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The Bronx is up

And the Battery’s down

Ever since I watched On the Town as a kid – musical with Gene Kelley and Frank Sinatra – I had been dying to go to NYC.  I used to work for various airlines in the 90’s and one of the perks?  Cheap / discounted airline tickets.

So in 1998 I took myself off with Virgin, booked myself into a Youth Hostel in Chelsea district and had a whale of a time.  I wandered down to Battery Park and got lost, asking the policemen where to go.

Eh?

They’d question my English accent.  But then I had a light bulb moment and inflicted what I thought was a New York accent.

 Baddery Pwaaaaaaark

It worked.  They pointed me in the right direction with a tip of their cap and a “You’re welcome maam” (would you get that in Greece?  doubtful).

So I trundled off to take the ferry out to the Statue of Liberty.  As my Header picture shows, the view from the ferry is now an iconic one.  Isn’t that just marvelous and brings back so many memories?

statue of liberty photo

Photo by vagueonthehow

empire state building photo

Photo by bobosh_t

I had a great time: the deli’s, the sheer aliveness of the place.  Greenwich Village, Tribeca, SoHo – oh the choices are too many!

Here in my humble neighbourhood in Athens, a lovely deli has opened – run by Greek Americans and giving a taste of New York:

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What have your experiences been of New York?  Like it?  Indifferent to it?  Share your comments.  I hope – one day – to go back.

“Return to the Aegean” & “Aegean Abduction” interview with E.J.Russell

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I’ve been lucky to interview some great authors who hold Greece dear to their hearts and write fiction and non-fiction about this country; Sara Alexi of The Greek Village series, Ekaterina Botziou’s tongue in cheek book about married life to a Greek: “Last Moussaka Standing,” to name but a few.

So imagine my delight when—during a lull in work—I started trawling Amazon’s Kindle recommendations to me and discovered E.J.Russell’s “The Aegean Mystery Series.”

Oh – this sounds like my kind of read!

I downloaded the first in the series: “Return to the Aegean – Book 1” and the only complaint?  I suffered from lack of sleep because I found it hard to put down.
“Mystery” in a different sense of the word: a Greek returning after many years away from her homeland to lay to rest & come to terms with some deep, dark secrets in her family’s past—and how this affects her present.  I was riveted: E.J.Russell sure knew how to play on the famous ‘Greek Tragedy’ without being clichéd.
I then downloaded “Aegean Abduction.”  OK, not as riveting, but still very good.  And Russell has a way of helping the reader warm to the protagonist.

But who is E.J. Russell?  I tried researching him/her through Amazon and Google to see if I could contact him/her for an interview: nothing.  Imagine my delight when she (yes, it’s a she) contacted me!


Emma, I could find virtually nothing about you on the internet to give us a clue into your background, so I welcome the opportunity to interview you.

Do you have a connection with Greece at all that inspired you to write “The Aegean Mystery” series?

I have a strong connection to Greece. I was baptised on the Greek island of Paros and grew up there. When you grow up surrounded by that kind of natural beauty, it is very difficult not to be influenced and inspired by it. It has coloured and shaped my whole life and I’m really proud of that. I had the most amazing upbringing, living on this beautiful island and hanging out in an artists’ community. If I hadn’t been creative in some way, it would have been a surprise.

Emma was baptised on Paros
Emma was baptised on Paros

You have a lovely way of really painting a vivid picture of the characters and helping the reader to either love or dislike them.

How did and do you go about your research—do you take elements of people that you know/have experienced in Greece?

My work is entirely fictional but I have always really enjoyed painting pictures with words. Words are tremendously powerful, it is easy to create a lasting portrait of someone in the way you describe them and I become quite gleeful sometimes when making someone up. The characters in a book can be really real to a writer. I didn’t do much research into Greek Culture or the people as they are part of my life, but I did do some research into diving, although growing up on an island meant I was heavily into diving and sailing as a kid.

You seem to have spent a great length of time in Greece as you correctly and eloquently capture the essence of the country so well.

Can you share with us a favourite moment or time/experience?

I think an important pivotal moment for me was when I was around eight years old. I’d been swimming and snorkelling a lot, but on this particular day, the Aegean decided to befriend me for good. Whether it was the season (May) or whether I was just a more competent swimmer and diver, on this day I saw lobsters and octopus and a moray eel. It was exhilarating. I was hooked! I still consider it one of the most beautiful things in the world; to swim and free dive or snorkel and watch marine life. It is a great escape.

 Please tell us when we can expect Book Three!  Book Two was left deliciously open.

I think Book Three can be expected in June or July of this year. It is the final book in the trilogy and I’m enjoying writing this even more than the other two. The reader will get taken to the north of Greece, Thessaloniki and also Istanbul and the spectre of the mother (is she alive or isn’t she?) is very much present. The book is soaked in descriptions of Greece as well as the island of Katafigio. It is a generous portion of ‘Greekness.’

 I myself am completing my first novel, based in Greece.

Do you have any tips, also that other potential writers will find useful too?

Write about what you know. Have fun, don’t get bogged down in a scene if it is not working, you are the creator, you make the rules. Remember that a lot of what you write will get thrown away in rewrites. I have fun acting out the dialogues of my characters; it helps me test their authenticity and keeps my neighbours away.

 Thanks for your time Emma.

Bio:

E.J.Russell was born in Salisbury, England but moved to Greece when she was 2 weeks old. She was fortunate enough to enjoy the stunning natural beauty of the Greek island of Paros while growing up until age 11 when she went to school in Kent.
She has travelled all over the world and held down jobs as diverse as working in bars collecting glasses to administrative work for Madoff London, the BBC and teaching.
Greece remains a strong constant in her life while writing and focusing on her family. Return to the Aegean was her first book  in the Aegean Mystery Series trilogy and by no means the last. She also writes in other genres and film scripts.

Incorrect assumptions of an expat lifestyle

As followers of my site will know, I run regular stories by expats in my Expats Sharing Experiences section.  I like to reach out and encourage others to share their stories of expat life, so I was chuffed when international money transfer company HiFX asked me to contribute my own tip to their expat page.

The problem is, I know the dictionary definition of an expat:

“To withdraw oneself from residence in one’s native country.”  OK, so far so good.  I had withdrawn myself from my native country of the UK and was temporarily settled in Greece.  But the term ‘expat’ conjured up all sorts of other images for me: being invited to Ambassadors’ balls with Ferrero Roche served on gold platters, groups of expats all gathered together, making snide remarks about ‘the locals.’

No Ferrero Roche Ambassador balls for me as an expat
No Ferrero Roche Ambassador balls for me as an expat

Was this really me?

I was dreading the cliché, and yet I’d made the choice to go abroad and work—would this be something I’d have to endure…the downside of trading in my 9-5 lifestyle in the UK?

And yet as people’s stories on my site have shown, being an expat doesn’t have to be like my presumptions.

Living in Athens has exposed me to a whole host of nationalities: Greeks, English and Americans.  Shock, horror, I am now becoming a part of the expat scene!  Yet these British and Americans also had a Greek link: husband, family—so I don’t feel as if I’m totally immersed into the ‘gin and tonic’ crowd.  And even though I live in the capital city, still no Ferrero Roche balls.

Back to the tips:

I would encourage utilisation of Facebook and other social media.  Used properly, it’s a great tool for meeting other people in a foreign city; especially if you’re married with children.  Example: where I live—Athens—there are pages for people arranging events, selling furniture (particularly useful when you’re moving into an unfurnished home) and Foreign Mother’s groups.

If you’re looking for accommodation, don’t rely on the expat pages, or Agents specialising in housing foreigners, prices are expensive. Word of mouth and the local press is much better…and take a Greek colleague or newly made friend with you to negotiate.

I’m lucky;

it’s taken me a while but I have a great mix of expat and Greek friends, the Greek friends met and developed through work. I’ve lived here for five years now and yes, whilst my official label is an ‘expat,’ I would prefer to call myself an ‘honorary Greek.’

For more tips, go to HiFX’s tips page.

Header picture courtesy of: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_gown

Expat life in the Netherlands

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Today, Sophie shares her story with us:  She is a twenty-something Canadian who moved to the Netherlands for love.  In her eighteen months in the country, she has earned an MA in Media Studies, lived in three different cities and one village, and continues to fall more in love with her new home everyday. She started Sophie in Clogs  as a way to document her life abroad—her travels and adventures big and small, her favourite city dwellings, and a lot of food talk.

Step into your comfiest clogs and follow her on Instagram


When I first moved to the Netherlands, a question I often got was whether it was difficult to get around when I didn’t speak the language.  The answer was always ‘not really’ – obviously it’s very beneficial to at least try to pick up some Dutch, but what you’ve heard is true: the people around here tend to speak very good English.  What I found much more difficult than the language barrier in the beginning were the (not so) subtle differences in communication styles between myself and the Dutch.

There is a very unflattering stereotype out there about Dutch people being rude, which I think must stem from a misunderstanding of their communication style.

At least Sophie has her Dutch friends to help her recover from the Dutch frankness
At least Sophie has her Dutch friends to help her recover from the Dutch frankness

At the other end of the spectrum, Canadians are portrayed as almost comically friendly and ridiculously polite …  (See How I Met Your Mother if you don’t believe me!)  Clearly, I was destined to have some difficulties!  But, although I have admittedly had a few disheartening experiences while trying to adapt to this new communication style, most of the time it’s made for some humorous stories (at least in hindsight) and excellent life lessons.

Thank you SO much & other excessive cries

When I first moved here, one of the most immediately striking differences I noticed between myself and the Dutch was in the way we express enthusiasm and gratitude.

I have made many a Dutch person uncomfortable with my wide-grinned exclamations of ‘thank you so much!’  and my lavish use of superlatives.  Prime example?  Having dinner at a friend’s place.  Back in Canada, it’s typical to proliferate thanks and compliments throughout the meal.  Before the dish is presented to you: ‘Wow, this smells heavenly!’  As the plate is set in front of you: ‘This looks amazing, thank you so much!’  And, multiple times throughout (and after) the meal:

‘This is delicious!  Wow, this is so good!  Thank you so much!’

Now that I’ve lived in the Netherlands for well over a year, I do see how excessive this might seem to the non-initiated –

but when I first moved here, I simply didn’t get why my hosts could only manage small nods, or even uncomfortable shoulder shrugs as I sang their praise.  Did they hate me?  Had I done something wrong?  It turns out that, generally speaking, Dutch people take excessive shows of enthusiasm as unnecessary and, at times, suspicious.  Oops.

Slowly, I have learned to refrain from offering more than one compliment per dining stage, and have even been known not to comment on the smell at all.  A true revolution!

Dutch Honesty

A particular event stands out in my memory as pertains to the famous Dutch honesty.  Shortly after I’d first made the move to the Netherlands, I was invited to spend a weekend at a friend’s place.  Her mother’s birthday happened to fall on that weekend, and I was invited to join the festivities with a very nice dinner and a concert.  After the performance, I thanked my hosts for the night out.

‘Well of course,’ my friend’s father replied, ‘You’re here on my wife’s birthday, so we had no choice.’

That sure felt good!  (Fortunately I’ve come to know my friend’s parents very well and they are very warm, genuine and generous people.)

I have to say that the longer I live here, the more I come to appreciate this blunt communication style.  My Dutch friends will always tell me if there’s something in my teeth or if I’ve done something they don’t appreciate.  While difficult to get used to at first, I find it makes our friendships all the stronger.

Dropping my pleases and thank yous

The biggest challenge I’ve faced is getting people to take me seriously – specifically in bureaucratic settings.

About a year ago, I was suddenly forced to stop working through a series of miscommunications with the office in charge of my employment.  Long story short: my representative had neglected to renew my work permit, and it would take an alleged six weeks (at least) to resolve the issue.  I had lost my job overnight.  I was devastated and grew increasingly frustrated as it became apparent that nobody in charge was willingly going to help me rectify the situation.

It was a very rough couple of weeks – I think I had at least one breakdown a day – but at the same time, it was with this drama (and the incredible help of my wonderful boyfriend and friends) that I learned to get things done for myself – and in just three weeks, I had my job back!  Most interestingly, I discovered that the way to get people to comply with me was by writing what I considered to be extremely aggressive emails – which my Dutch friends constantly assured me actually sounded extremely friendly.  What a difference from all the smiling I did in Toronto when I was trying to renew my passport under a time crunch!

Dropping my pleases and thank yous continues to feel unnatural to me but I’m fortunate that, since that particular incident, I haven’t had much need to do so.

I still haven’t mastered the art of “Dutch-style” communication.  I’m convinced that, in spite of my increasing fluency, people in stores totally know that I’m an outsider – surely something to do with my overly-enthusiastic answers to questions like ‘Would you like a bag?’.  Still, I see the learning process as interesting and fun.  And, if nothing else, I’ve finally learned not to take indifferent service in restaurants personally!

Stroopwafels (syrup sandwiched between crispy, chewy wafer cookies) make it difficult to control Sophie's Canadian impulses!
Stroopwafels (syrup sandwiched between crispy, chewy wafer cookies) make it difficult to control Sophie’s Canadian impulses!

Thanks for sharing Sophie!  This makes me laugh as it is SOOOOO similar to the way the Greeks communicate.  I think us Brits and North Americans are probably excessive.  Be careful though: when you go back to Canada for a visit, learn to adjust as I have gone back to the UK numerous times, only to have to check myself as I am considered EXTREMELY rude!

Turkish Bath in Athens – complete surrender

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I’d been offered a free Turkish Bath at Hammam in Thissio, almost near the Acropolis.  You can go onto their website to get an idea of their offers, etc.  Let me give you my personal account.

Had I ever had a Turkish bath before?

No. So it was with some trepidation that I set off, with the instructions to bring a swimsuit.

??  I thought I was going for a ‘bath.’

P1010073

The staff were very friendly when I stepped through the door (I had to be buzzed in).  Set in the quiet neighbourhood, very near Thissio metro I was shown around: where to undress, to wrap a cotton sarong around myself, irrespective of the fact I had a costume on.  Note: The Hammam is mixed ie: male and female, except all day Tuesday’s, when it’s Women Only.

Having locked my belongings away and treading carefully down the stairs in the wooden clogs provided, I was shown into the steam room (see Featured Image).

You will sit on the marble, you will fill up your bowl to your desired temperature and pour down you, like this

said my ‘host, and then she proceeded to throw water over me.  Well, not throw – but unceremoniously tipped it over my head.

OK?  I see you in half an hour.  Continue to do this.

Still reeling a little from having water chucked over me, I took in my surroundings and the lovely warm atmosphere.  I was alone, sitting on a marble semi-circular seat and so, when in Rome, I shrugged my shoulders and did as I was told.  After 15 mins, thoroughly drenched and my arm getting slightly stiff from constant chucking of water over myself, I popped my head outside.

Could I possibly have a glass of water?

I was a bit afraid of this lady, hoping that, too, wouldn’t get chucked at me.  But no, she kindly passed me some and I gulped it down, now aware of how dehydrated one can get in a hot, steamy atmosphere.

You now come with me

The constant bathing of myself (I felt like I was cleansing myself of my sins) was over, and I followed her into the other room.

Lie down on here

‘Here’ was a marble slab and this, Ladies and Gentlemen, is where I, personally, feel my true Turkish experience began.

The brochure describes my treatment as:

The Ali-Mama Hammam is the absolute ritual of heat, steam, massage exfoliation and relaxation.  You begin your ritual on the warm marble stone, with a rejuvenating steam bath [ahhhh, so it was a steam bath, not a drenching] before a deep exfoliating scrub with a single-use ketseas from our professional masseurs.  Next, indulge yourself in an invigorating and luxurious full-body massage with foam from natural olive-oil soap as the experience ends with a deep cleanse and conditioning of your hair with head and scalp massage.  This is followed by tea and traditional delights in our lounge before heading back to reality.

And boy, did I get stretched and massaged!  Lying on the marble, heat radiating through my aching back, this is where I literally had to surrender completely.  And trust.  She was professional beyond belief.  The foam had me chuckling as I had my eyes closed (had to) and I felt this substance being applied to my body, then suddenly it fizzed up to engulf me!  I wanted to giggle, but couldn’t for fear of foam getting in my mouth!

Pummeled front and back, my scalp massaged and hair washed (don’t you love it when someone else washes your hair?) I also noted with interest that regularly, the masseur would stop to pour water over herself. When it was all over, I asked her about it – thinking this was some sort of ritual whereby she has to cleanse herself of any ‘negativity’ from her clients (not that there’s any radiating from me, let me assure you!)

I get hot, so I have to cool down

Oh – well that explained that then.

And seeing I looked a little woozy, she wrapped a big towel around my body and head and led me to the lounge, where some God like figure came up and placed a glass of water, tea and Turkish sweets in front of me.

P1010070

I didn’t want to leave that womb like environment.

I really did feel as if I had regressed, in a positive way.  I would recommend a Turkish bath, especially the Hammam if you’re in Athens.  It’s very central and an experience that you must feel comfortable with the people providing the service. Once I got over my initial reserve, I found the service professional and enjoyable.

Thank you, I shall be back!

Featured image courtesy of http://loveisspeed.blogspot.gr/2012/01/faena-el-porteno-hotel-by-philippe.html.

Swimming: East vs West

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LeavingCairo_Claudia-300x192.jpgClaudia Landini is an intercultural trainer, cross-cultural and mobile career coach, interpreter, founder of Expat Clic and Expat Women at Work,  a community platform for professional women living abroad. For the last 24 years she has lived in 8 countries on 4 different continents. She provides cross-cultural trainings and coaching programs in English, Italian, Spanish and French. Find out more about her at Cross Cultures Coaching

Back in 2012 I wrote a guest post for Tossing It Out about how I felt countries can be compared to swimming pools.  Today, Claudia shares with us her literal experiences of swimming pools – East vs West.


I love swimming pools because, like markets and public transportation, they represent a micro world where all cultural traits and codes of a country express themselves, in an environment that forces you to relate to important themes such as nudity, bodily expressions, personal space and hygiene.

In every country where I happen to live, I immediately look for a swimming pool: both because I enjoy swimming and for the inherent interesting mosaic of cultural behaviours swimming pools entail.

In Jerusalem, as you might know, two cultures live side by side – the Israeli one, which comprises most of modern Jerusalem, and the Arab one, squashed in a smaller part of the territory. Though having more in common than they are willing to admit, both cultures organize their lives in their own distinct ways, and the atmosphere you breathe on the two sides of town is strikingly different. This is valid for swimming pools, too.

Mixed vs Female only swimming

During the first period of my life here, I swam at a pool in the West part of Jerusalem, a big and bright space attended both by Israelis and some young Palestinian boys. I then went to live in another part of town, where it is now more practical for me to swim in a pool on the East side, where the only swimmers are exclusively Palestinian and Armenian—women, of course, because in the East, mixing male and female is strictly prohibited.

Female swimming is confined to a mere forty five minutes in the morning, whereas in the West, men and women can swim together from morning to dawn, and for those who wish, there are a couple of hours per day where men or women are not allowed to mix.

To be honest, I never tried the women only swimming time in the West, since my relationship with women swimmers has proven quite complicated from the very start.

Despite the huge size of the swimming pool, they seem to be very concerned by maintaining their private space, so if you accidentally bump into them (maybe because you are swimming backstroke and are not expecting anyone to get into your way) they react vehemently, with an aggressive attitude that has got very little to do with civilly sharing a common space. In two years of swimming in the West, I rarely saw a smile or other signs of empathy: women arrive, don’t look around, they jump into the pool, swim devotedly and bark at everything that gets into their way.

In the East—despite the adverse life conditions people have been going through in the last 60 years or so—they seem not to have forgotten politeness and warmth in human interactions:

they smile willingly, greet you when you arrive, happily sacrifice a bit of their space to let you pass and say good-bye when you go. The swimming pool in the East is three times smaller than the one in the West, but I have never ever seen anyone getting angry when swimming, or reacting aggressively when someone accidentally bumps into them (which, given the size of the pool, happens often).

LeavingCairo_Swimming in Jerusalem

Social occasion

For the sake of truth, it must be said that the general attitude of women swimming in the East is a trifle less sporty than in the West. Indeed there are days when I wonder why, instead of gathering in a pool, they have not gone to a bar or to someone’s house: they get into the pool, gather in more or less consistent groups, and start chatting amiably, without moving a muscle apart from the jaw. This attitude, despite a bit surprising at the beginning, does not interfere with the aim of the place—because even if occupying a large portion of the pool, these women are always willing to move aside and give you more space if you happen to be concentrated on strokes.

Costumes worn

One might suspect that it is because of social gatherings in the pool that women get into the water mostly completely dressed, but no.

Some of them (mainly older) wear a swimsuit, others go from a burkini—a kind of women swimsuit that covers the whole body except face, hands and feet—to lovely flowered blouses and/or tight leggings. I must say that this was what struck me the most. I had thought that because of finding ourselves exclusively amongst women, the ladies would have been happy to lower the rigid cultural compliance and have their limbs breath freely for a while, but I was wrong. The sense of modesty does not abandon them, even in the locker room, where they are very wary when changing. This is another striking difference with West—who have absolutely no shame to show themselves, and sometimes even indulge mother naked in long chats with friends.

Cleanliness

As far as cleanliness is concerned, I would draw a discrete veil on both sides: water seems to be cleaner in the West, but you find all sorts of elements in it (I won’t go into details), whereas in the East, I have never seen as much as a hair, but when someone swims with particular energy, the surface gets covered with suspicious bubbles.  I don’t mind though. I know that when I finish swimming, I’ll take a long hot shower. The feeling of partial cleanliness one can experience in the swimming pool is easier to shake away than that of acrimony and coldness.

A journey on behalf of “The Journey”

Busy day for Bex today in Athens!  Yes, the release of (some) of the posters for The Journey CrowdFunding event to be hosted in Athens were released and off I trotted to distribute around the city.  If you’re in Athens on Saturday, 1st March do join us (FB event here) and we hope to make you welcome.

You’ll have read my interview with the director, his motivations for making the film and my 24 hours on location with them, but what’s The Journey truly about?  Take a peak at a section from the Press Release:

The Journey is an independent feature film directed and written by Lance Nielsen and produced by a team of young passionate filmmakers from both Greece and the UK.  It’s a moving drama inspired by true events that deals with love, loss and bereavement and challenges that everyone will be able to relate to. It’s a story that will not fail to capture your hearts and for lovers of Greece—both the country and its essence—it will especially appeal.

Proud of the display!
Proud of the display!

Thanks to Chrysa of my favourite cafe in Athens, Cafe Mon Cheri – for being one of many outlets the poster is on display, advertising our crowdfunding campaign.

 

Thanks also to www.cake.gr in Acropoli
Thanks also to www.cake.gr in Acropoli

 

And thanks to Giota of www.bushbar.gr
And thanks to Yota of www.bushbar.gr

 

Thanks to Emi of Emi's Cupcakes (click the picture to be taken to recommendation)
Thanks to Emi of Emi’s Cupcakes (click the picture to be taken to recommendation)

The Journey is a film about hope, about re-birth in a time of constant defamation and derogation, both of people’s spirit and soul.

Whichever country or continent you’re on, be sure to tune into the Kickstarter campaign – to kick off on 01MAR.  Support this great film initiative – and support Greece at the same time.

From sunny Greece to frozen Alberta, Canada – an expat’s experiences.

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Bio:

Emmanuelle Stathopoulos  is an Environmental Psychologist and Accredited Life Coach with a love for Interior Architecture and Design. She was born in Athens but grew up between Athens and Brussels and studied in the UK. She spent most of her life in Greece and after the sudden loss of her beloved husband, nothing could prepare her for what life lay ahead for her.

Three years later and after a roller coaster of grief she decided to create a new life for herself. That process included anything from gingerly emerging into the world again, to race track driving and joining a dating site.

–          “ And where do you live?”

–          “ Fort McMurray”

–          “Ah!… Where is it in Canada?”

–          “ Alberta, up North”

–          “Oh! OK…”

After 4 months of dating online with her new partner, she decided to jump on a plane and fly over the Atlantic to meet him. Not a small feat for an officially proclaimed plane phobic!

She left Athens on a beautiful sunny day in November 2011 and 23 hours and 4 planes later, she landed in a  -22 degrees Celsius, frozen Fort McMurray…this totally white and frozen landscape with a temperature lower than her freezer, didn’t exactly seem very welcoming. In fact it felt more like what she imagined the Arctic to be like.

 How shall I breathe in this cold?

I remember thinking. Thank Goodness my partner had got me the first essentials which were a pair of mitts and a couple of cute warm hats.

After an exhilarating and exciting first few days, between jet lag and bliss, I began to notice my environment.

What struck me most was the structure of the town and how totally different it was to European towns let alone Greek ones. There were no squares with cafes and bakeries I was used to, no focal meeting points. The town is made up mainly of residential areas and the commercial are separate. These comprise of very large stores and huge parking spaces, the latter of which are virtually non-existent where I come from! Everything seemed so different and strange.

At first it struck me as disjointed, I could not orient myself, get a feel of the neighbourhood.

I needed to create my points of reference and that took a while, which meant that I was walking around Fort McMurray like a  rabbit blinded by a flash light for quite a few weeks.

Then I noticed the architecture, the lack of surrounding walls around the houses, the open gardens.

There was an homogenous  atmosphere that gave one a sense of peace, yet my instincts were crying: “I am exposed here”! Being used to high surrounding stone walls at home it felt so awkward at first that the point of entry to the house was the house’s door  and not the garden gate. Anyone could see your front garden, walk on your lawn.

Lots of open space
Lots of open space

The next thing that struck me was the short days and long nights in the winter, which felt quite eerie at first.

It may sound funny or even ridiculous for a local to read my first impressions yet I am sure there are a zillion other things that they may notice and find strange if they came to Athens, of which –as my man  noticed when he visited- the complete and total lack of parking spaces!

Where am I? What am I doing here?

I sometimes asked myself… But there was a very good reason and strong incentive for me to have left sunny Athens, to go to frozen Fort McMurray and that was love! Having said that, love affairs after the age of 50 are rarely an easy task. Love affairs between people of different cultures even more so. It took us quite a while to get used to and  understand each other’s differences. Then two months later a big nasty shock: the ugly c (cancer) came upon us, but 3 months and an operation later, the ‘Alien’ was sent to ‘outer space’ and thanks to my partner’s resilience and faith along with mine we  overcame the traumatic effects of it and our bond grew even stronger.

Just a few days before his surgery end of March 2012, we decided to visit the Rockies, so we headed for Jasper where we spent 3 lovely days together. It was an amazingly beautiful experience surpassed perhaps only by an even more amazing one when we visited Banff and Moraine lake in July 2012.

I have no words to describe the majestic Rocky Mountains.

Rockies
Rockies – Canada

When approaching them on the highway, the sheer sight of this humongous mountain mass took my breath away! It is a very different experience in the summer and in the winter, yet each season has its own unique beauty which we both loved to capture on our cameras and compare notes.

I fell in love with Jasper which is a beautiful little tourist town in the middle of Jasper National Park. I couldn’t get over the fact that one could see elk walk around the town as if they were pets, grazing quietly along the railway lines, oblivious to human presence!

We visited the Columbia ice fields in the middle of a snow storm and being virtually the only crazy ones to be there.

The sight of blue ice was mesmerizing and something I didn’t even know existed! The weather conditions changed so dramatically within minutes which in itself filled me with awe and a reasonable amount of fear, which thankfully subsided thanks to the endless beauty of it all.

About three months later, we visited the Rockies yet again, this time we went to Banff. Another beautiful small town, larger and busier than Jasper but just as charming.

Nothing could prepare me for Moraine lake though. The colour… Ah!

Moraine Lake
Moraine Lake – Canada

That unreal frosty turquoise blue color was something out of this world! We rented a canoe and enjoyed the lake for more than an hour, sliding silently through the ice cold water. The air was so clean and pure, the silence and gentle breeze was so soothing and the surrounding forests and mountains so sheltering it felt like heaven! A heaven I didn’t want to leave. One I promised myself to visit again.

Compared to Greece and Europe in general, nature in Canada is still quite wild.

I had never seen so many wild animals before – grizzly bears, moose, wolves, lynxes, cougars, coyotes, foxes, bison and so on- and at such close proximity. Alberta’s skies are legendary and have to admit unforgettable. The sense of vastness and endless horizons is something that we do not have in Greece and can verge on the uncomfortable before you fall in love with it. The people are nice and polite, you don’t run the risk of getting run over when crossing the street, bureaucracy is at its minimum and in general life is very calm in comparison with the stressful, chaotic life in Athens which it unfortunately is.

On the other hand,

a European may miss the culture, the architecture, the old buildings, the sophisticated city environments, the variation of the landscape and flora, the social environment, the climate that allows for people to spend time socializing outside their homes, meet friends at the café, greet the baker and the kiosk owner, have this sense of belonging and recognisability  in one’s neighbourhood. And of course, a Greek will miss the sea and the mountainous terrain –especially in Alberta’s flat lands- the multitude of wild flowers, herbs and fruit trees.

No place on earth is perfect, there are always trade-offs and one has to decide what it is they mostly need to be happy and that is very different and very relative for each person.

Author Interview – “The Old Fortress Dog” children’s book

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Ruth G. Zavitsanos has been featured in various publications, but I was interested in her children’s book series The Villa Dog—set in Tuscany,  The Kona Dog—which takes place on the Hawaiian island of Maui—and more specifically for me, The Old Fortress Dog—set on the Greek island of Corfu.

I was intrigued to know more about Ruth’s inspiration to write about “The Old Fortress Dog.”  I’m glad she’s agreed to my interview.

Review copy provided free of charge by the author.


Ruth—thank you very much for your time.  

The Old Fortress Dog is set on Corfu.  I also note your surname is Greek.

What, if any, family links to Corfu do you have and was this your primary motivation for the setting of your book?

Yes, I do have relatives in Corfu. Corfu is truly our home away from home. My first visit to Corfu was in 1984, I returned four years later for my honeymoon. We’ve been fortunate to go there nearly every other year in the past. However, because of some of the economical turmoil we returned this past summer after a four year absence. My Papou ( maternal Grandfather) was born in Corfu and came to Americain 1919. Like the boy’s Papou in the book, he was a very wise and caring man. I love watching the faces of my children light up with both excitement and contentment when we arrive at the home of their Papou. He passed away in 2006, but will forever live in our hearts.  Also, my husband’s father was born in Corfu (It’s a Greek thing! J) . I wrote this book as a tribute to him and to “all those grandfathers everywhere who have contributed to lasting treasured memories.”

During our recent stay we visited THE OLD FORTRESS, something we’d done several times before when our, now teenage daughters, were quite young. We also went to the Achilleon Museum for the first time with our daughters. They are at an age when they can appreciate the artwork, architecture and history of the 19th century Palace built by Empress Elizabeth of Bavaria. It’s an enticing tour of both the palace and elegant gardens offering astounding views overlooking the City of Corfu. The Empresses’ obsession with the Greek Gods is seen throughout with the main theme centering on the mightiest of the Greeks, Achilles. While wandering the gardens one is embraced by an air of serenity.

Eventually, I hope to finish a light-hearted Memoir tentatively titled “Come to Corfu.”

The book tells the story beautifully from the dog’s point of view as he helps his master in the task of emotionally healing his master’s grandson, visiting from the U.S. for the summer.

A running theme I picked up upon is that it’s the traditional, simple ways of life—as found on Corfu as opposed to the grandson’s native U.S.A.—that helps the boy heal: playing football with Greek boys his own age, more exercise than he would get at home.

In my book Nikos is a young shy boy who has been teased by his teammates because he is a “weak” soccer player. Though he once enjoyed the sport their cruel remarks place a dark shadow over his joy for the sport. When one young Greek boy encourages him to kick the ball, Nikos is reluctant until the others join in. The language barrier does not exist, only the smiles and laughter. The Greek boys are excited to share their enthusiasm for the sport with the “American” boy. There are no parents, just a Papou with a knowing glee in his eye and a keenly intuitive dog, Leonidas, who led Nikos to the soccer ball.

How much of your own experience in this area influenced the writing of this book?  You yourself live in the U.S.—do you find there’s more to be said for the ‘simpler’ way of life?

Absolutely! I enjoy the Mediterranean diet, Frappes overlooking amazing sea views, and the laid-back “You are on Greek time” lifestyle. Also, the people of Corfu are friendly and welcoming.  This is what is so special about a place like Corfu, time does not erode the memories. We love how little the island has changed in that respect.

We always arrive home from our time there feeling much more relaxed and making plans for our return trip. Coming home to the hectic and often over scheduled days really makes us appreciate the tranquillity of the island, where our cares are that of what beach to visit and the selection of delicious Greek Cuisine for dinner.

  You have dogs yourself.  Can you give us any examples of how your dogs have pulled together for you?

[Our dogs] are highly alert and very intuitive

leavingcairo_Rocky & Pebbles

Yes, I have two very sweet and highly indulged “canine kids.” They are our security blanket-offering a strong bark with a loving disposition. Pebbles is part Black Labrador Retriever and part Border Collie and Rocky is a miniature Australian Shepherd. Both are healers when it comes to soothing the soul of their human family. Of course, throwing the ball or Frisbee is what gets their tails wagging along with a few treats, too.

When my husband was diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes he quit smoking and lost thirty pounds. Staying fit and healthy is his priority these days. His biggest motivator and number one hiking companion is our mini Australian Shepherd, Rocky. The little guy jumps in the car and takes a 3-5 mile walk with my husband everyday. His “little buddy” is always eager to walk alongside. And, my “big girl” Pebbles is highly alert and very intuitive. She stays with me in my office while I write and reminds me to get up and move by nudging me every half hour or so. We walk, get a treat and run errands together. Pebbles and Rocky not only add joy and love to our home, they complete out family.

And what’s next in the series?

I’d like to write about a sweet dog I came across while visiting Dublin, Ireland. We stayed in a majestic 11thCentury castle hotel just outside of the city. THE CASTLE DOG is something I’d definitely like to work on.


I loved reading the story of Leonidas, the brave, sensitive soul who was expertly written in the first person.  If you’ve ever wondered if dogs can sense and feel emotion, this book is for you.  Regardless that it’s a fiction book—all lovers of animals, Greece and anything traditional will adore it.

Thanks for having me. I hope your readers will visit my website for information about my books: www.ruthzonline.com.

Usk – South Wales

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The New Year of 2013 saw me spending with friends who live in Newport, South Wales.  On a rare, sunny(ish) day we decided to visit a local village, Usk, 10 miles northeast of them.

Usk is a small market town located on the River boasting the same name as the village – a lovely stone bridge spans the western entrance over it to the town.

Bridge over the River Usk (look how high the water is!)
Bridge over the River Usk (look how high the water is!)

It (apparently) houses a notable prison (but we couldn’t find it) and more recently, has had success in the Britain in Bloom contests, winning the Large Village category in 2005.

If you’ve ever visited towns around the UK, as you wander around Usk you’ll come to understand why it’s considered more of a large village: There’s an old castle standing guard above the town, and a disused railway that made for a lovely walk, for example, meaning nature and history surrounds you.

Railway line
Railway line of Usk

December 2013 has seen unprecedented amounts of rain fall in the South West corner of the UK and Scotland.  South Wales  has not gone unaffected, and neither had Usk, as you will see in my little video.

Another quaint place is Twyn Square and the Clock Tower in Usk village centre.  And with a choice of pub grub in two pubs in the Square, if you’re spending any time in Newport or Cardiff, I’d highly recommend a trip out to Usk.  Bring warm winter clothes and waterproofs, and waterproofs even in the summer – you never can tell in this green and glorious land when the rain might fall!

Twyn Square
Twyn Square

All in all, I’d say Usk is quaint, traditional

 

One man and a container ship, around the world

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A lot of people have expressed interest, even amazement at the fact I took a container ship trip as a passenger this summer to Hong Kong.  Whilst not common, people (other then me) do travel by this mode, as my interview here will show.

David Riggs is a history professor at a small college near St. Paul, Minnesota.   He’s recently returned from a Round the World trip, mostly by container ship!  I’m chuffed he’s agreed to share his experiences with me.
As you will see, whilst his experiences are somewhat similar, they are also vastly different to mine too.  Read on…


David
David

David, it’s great to find a fellow seafarer.  Can you tell us a little about why you chose to travel by this mode of transport?

I had the good fortune to be granted a one-semester sabbatical for the fall 2013 term and this freed me up from any formal teaching responsibilities.  One of my research interests has been the 18th-century merchant marine of colonial America and I have spent hundreds of hours going through logbooks and other shipping records from that period.  That work piqued my interest and when I found myself with a large chunk of free time for the first time in my adult life I began exploring travel options that connected to those interests.  I had heard of the possibilities of traveling on container ships and began researching that option when I came upon your blog recounting your own experiences.  That got me hooked on the idea and when I discovered this particular “around the world” passage, I jumped on the opportunity

And what was your route?

I travelled on CMA CGM La Scala.  We departed Seattle early October and stopped at Vancouver, Yokohama, Shanghai (Yangshen Container Port), Ningbo, Hong Kong, Yantian, Tanjung Pelepas (Malaysia), and arrived in New York November 30. That’s 20,850 statute (land) miles all in all.

Unlike me, I believe you weren’t the only passenger on board.  Can you tell us a little about your fellow passengers?  Were they with you the whole journey?

I travelled with two other passengers to Malaysia where one disembarked.  The other passenger stayed on until New York.  Both gentlemen were from the Seattle area and one was retired from employment with the state of Washington and the other was a retired elementary school teacher.  None of us knew the other but we all had a shared interest in the sea and ships.

Any challenges you faced whilst undertaking the journey?

Keeping an eye on the ship in Seattle
Keeping an eye on the ship in Seattle

I think the greatest anxiety I felt was even before I got on board the ship in Seattle.  I had arrived a few days before La Scala and saw her pass by the waterfront on the way to the container port.  I had this irrational fear that the ship was going to sail without me due to some miscommunication with the shipping agent.  I could see the ship from where I was staying so I kept glancing over to make sure she was still there.  Silly me! Once I had successfully boarded the ship the biggest challenge was adapting to the newness of it all.  It took a few days to get into the ship routines.

Communication was also a bit of a challenge.

The officers were Romanian and the crew Filipino.  Although English was the official language of the ship it wasn’t used too often.  The Romanians ate and socialized separate from the passengers and crew.  The captain was a surly fellow and not very liked by anyone on the ship and that created a unique dynamic to say the least.  The Filipino crew were all friendly but their English language skills varied considerably.  The two 3rd officers were more open to talking with the passengers and when we had questions we went to them.

We dodged several typhoons on this trip,

including Typhoon Haiyan and while we never encountered serious weather while we were at sea, weather was on my mind.  I have decades of sailing experience but still wondered what it would be like in a significant storm.  Also, we learned that a critical bulkhead in a cargo hold cracked while we were in the north Pacific.  There was talk about this crack leading to a systemic hull failure during a storm.  A team of Samsung welders repaired it while we were anchored in Tokyo Bay but it was a reminder that ships still sink.

Transiting the pirate zones also led to some tense moments. 

In the 4 weeks preceding our arrival in Malaysia 4 ships were hijacked right in the Singapore Straits.  We did not take on private security for the passage through the Gulf of Aden.  The crew rigged pirate barriers along the lower stern deck and we travelled at maximum speed through that area.  I was glad to be through that area safely and breathed a sigh of relief.  Funny thing though, we didn’t do a safety drill regarding a pirate attack until we were 3 days from New York!  Then they told us what to do in the event of a pirate attack!  Why then?!  Were they afraid the girls of Jersey Shore were going to attack?  It was so odd, it was funny.

Your favourite destination and why?

This has been an amazing trip in so many ways.  I remain in awe of the beauty of this watery planet.  I never tired of staring out toward the horizon or just watching the waves pass by.  Traveling the world this way gave me insights into the business of the modern merchant marine that were invaluable.  The lives these men live carrying the world’s goods from place to place are workmen like (I mean that in a positive sense).  In some ways their daily lives are pretty ordinary except when you remember the work they are doing is on a moving behemoth and the places they go.  They are a unique minority doing what for most of the world is a really unusual thing.  Seeing it first-hand was worth the trip in itself.

En route to Japan
En route to Japan

I particularly enjoyed sailing over the waters that have particular historical significance. 

I was where the Battle of Midway took place and spent 6 days anchored in Tokyo Bay.  I sailed in waters referenced by Joseph Conrad: the one-degree passage, the Straits of Malacca and Singapore, the Gulf of Aden.  From the Suez Canal to Gibraltar, history was all around.  It is sort of like standing in Westminster Abbey for the first time and getting goose bumps and it touched my core.  The same goes for passing over these featureless stretches of ocean where history was made. It is awe inspiring and humbling at the same time to imagine the past in these sacred places.

Going ashore in Hong Kong and Yantian gave me a glimpse into 2 different China’s. 

Hong Kong was the Manhattan of the East and full of urban sophisticates.  Yantian was a manufacturing centre that retained the characteristics of what I assume to be a more real version of urban China today.  The port of Ningbo was one of the most polluted places I have ever seen.  Sailing by the Singapore skyline at night was beautiful.  All these impressions are just that, a brief look into other worlds.

And then there were the people…

I really enjoyed talking to the officers and crew about their experiences and their lives back home.  The world does become a smaller place when you have a chance to talk with people from other cultures.  You see the similarities much more than the differences.

And how did it feel sailing into New York?

NYC
NYC

It was an amazing experience!  The trip was coming to a close and I was anxious to get home of course but I was also a little sad that the end was in sight.  I set my alarm for 3am so I would not miss us sailing in under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge that connects Brooklyn to Staten Island.  We ended up passing under the bridge around 5am and in a short while I could see the Statue of Liberty and Manhattan a few miles upriver.  The container port is actually in New Jersey and shortly after we were moored the sun came up and I had a wonderful view of the Manhattan skyline off in the distance including the new Freedom Tower.

Would you do a similar trip again?  And any advice for someone thinking of doing this?

The trip was 56 days from start to finish and I don’t think it is likely that I would have the time to repeat this experience. I would be interested in doing a shorter trip sometime, perhaps transiting through the Panama Canal.

My advice to anyone thinking of doing a long trip like this is to make sure you do your research and know what you are getting into.

Talk to someone who has done something like this before.  The ship is a workplace and passengers need to be pretty self sufficient in many ways.  This is a great way to spend time at sea and travel to some places many people don’t normally go.

Thanks, David, for taking the time to answer my questions.  David used the same agent as I did to book his trip: www.cruisepeople.co.uk and we both found them exceedingly knowledgeable and helpful.


All images belong to and are loaned to Life Beyond Borders by David Riggs.

Expat life in Western Australia

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Tamzin Jackman  left her hometown of Yorkshire in England back in June 2012 and ended up living as an expat in Perth, Western Australia, she never looked back. She’s working on getting her blog up and running, but for now you can follow her adventures on Twitter.  She shares her expat experience with the League of Expat Writers here.


I never came to Australia intending to be an expat.

In fact, I actually ended up in Perth by accident. The flight was cheap; I mean super-budget-traveller-don’t-want-to-miss-this type of cheap. So, with a backpack and about £1000, off I trotted to Perth, the city named the most isolated in the world. I’d told myself I’d stay a few weeks then head off around Australia. The plan was to work and travel around till my money ran out. Well turns out in Australia your money can run out very fast! I had done my research and I was expecting expensive, but nothing can quite prepare you for $25 Mojitos! I had come with my boyfriend and before we knew it, he had a job, I had a job, we had leased a flat and we were applying for residency. This journey started in June 2012, its now December 2013 and we have no intention of going “home”.

Despite Australia being an English speaking country I’ve learned (the hard way) that doesn’t quite mean you are sparred the embarrassment of the foreigner faux pars. For example shortly after arriving and a few days into my new job I was asked “How are you travelling?” A little bemused I explained how I’d got to work that morning. After explaining in great depth my bus route and the advantages of public transport I noticed there were a fair few grins spreading across the room. Turns out “How are you travelling?” just means, “How are you?”

So why Australia? Well it wouldn’t be hard to list all the many factors that make it a great place to live.

The weather, the scenery, the outdoor lifestyle, the Ozzie love for a good beer and BBQ! But for me what sums up the country is the people. You tell a local you’ve just moved to Australia and you’ll be met with a torrent of suggestions for things to do, places to see, and reasons you’re going to love being here. It doesn’t take long to realise where this enthusiasm comes from. In my first 6 months in Australia I’d seen long red dusty roads, rolling hills, dense bush land, sand dunes and breath-taking coastline. I’d swum with Dolphins and sea lions, sampled wine at local vineyards, surfed and camped in stunning national parks. And these experiences weren’t part of a long trip around Australia; they were squeezed in on a Saturday afternoon or on snatched long weekends away. Nothing in that list was more than a 3-hour drive from Perth. I’ve seen less than 1% of this diverse country and already experienced so much. It certainly makes me excited for a future here.

Snorkelling with the Sea Lions at Jurien Bay, WA
Snorkelling with the Sea Lions at Jurien Bay, WA

Australia is famous for its wildlife and you only have to go a few miles out of the city to experience it first hand.

Kangaroos, Koalas, Dolphins, Parrots, Pelicans and Whalesharks to name a few. Definitely worth a visit if you are in Perth is the beautiful Rottnest Island. With no cars allowed on the island the most common way to explore is by hiring a bike, which is great fun if you are prepared for the hills! Coined by the locals as “Rotto” and sitting around 20km off the coast from Perth the island is home to some of the most spectacular snorkelling, wildlife and fauna in the region. Rottnest is also one of the only places in the world where the Quokka can be found.  About the size of a cat these ‘mini kangaroos’ can be seen rummaging about all over the island and certainly aren’t afraid of human contact. Be warned, give one of these little guys any food and you will have an extra companion for the rest of your meal!

Tamzin with a koala
Tamzin with a koala

Unbeknown to many, Rottnest Island was actually used as an aboriginal Prison for nearly a century – until 1904.

The prison still stands on the island today, however it’s off the main cycle route and many visitors wouldn’t know it was there. It’s a dark reminder of the hidden history of the conflict between the aboriginal population and the settlers.

A 40 degree Christmas!

At the end of the day I think there will always be some things that as an Expat will never feel “normal”. Such as 40 degrees on Christmas day or January being the hottest month of the year! I think I will always get frustrated when air cons are blasted on so cool you need a jacket to sit inside on hot days! But despite the quirks and the challenges I know this is the right thing for me. And although there is still so much of the world I’m planning to see, I think I’m happy to return to Australia after each adventure. I guess you could say Australia is now home…

With my mum last Christmas – She’s actually planning on migrating out here to but that’s another story
With my mum last Christmas – She’s actually planning on migrating out here to but that’s another story

“Our Man in Orlando” – an interview with the elusive author

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Hugh Hunter is our man in Orlando – the British consul there.  Or rather, he was.  Hugh’s not your average Foreign & Commonwealth employee serving his Majesty’s Government—no.  Hugh, it has been noted, is somewhat a loose cannon.  You might think he’s ex-Oxbridge (the term given for those hailing from Oxford or Cambridge).  No, he’s an ex-fireman from Romford, Essex (another thing we have in common, not the fireman bit, the Essex bit).  And it turned out his ability to put out fires physically morphed into the metaphorical realm too.  His job as the British Consul in Orlando, Florida required plenty of metaphorical fires to be balmed.   But can Hugh keep his renegade personality under control within an institution that requires tact, diplomacy, a stiff upper lip attitude and happy to follow the rules?  Let’s find out!


I read his book “Our Man in Orlando” and am honoured he is prepared to be interviewed!

Hugh (that is your real name isn’t it?)—thanks for taking the time to be interviewed by me today, you were quite a hard man to track down initially!

Well, thank you for taking the time and making the effort to find me.

It’s ironic that you worked in the British Consulate, yet you are quite open and frank in the book that your entry into the U.S. initially wasn’t strictly ‘legal’ itself. Did this cause a problem when applying for a job with the UK Embassy (Hugh originally worked for them in New York)?

It wasn’t a problem when I applied for the job; I didn’t mention that I was in the country illegally and they didn’t ask me about it. After I got the position I was given a diplomatic visa for the United States from their embassy in London; after that I had no tangible problems with the US authorities, although the US immigration officer who admitted me into the USA wasn’t very happy about it.

Orlando florida photo
Orlando. Photo by Thanks for over 2 million views!!

Your time in Orlando and Florida was primarily spent visiting British Nationals who were serving time for any variety of crimes.  Your book tells us of a few of these—any you’d like to sample for my readers here?

British prisoners in Florida

There are so many crazy stories about British prisoners in Florida it’s hard to know where to start! There was the grandmother who hijacked a helicopter in order to bust her husband out of Death Row. She almost pulled it off, but the pilot managed to persuade her to abort the mission when the prison was in sight. The woman was later captured and ended-up with a 20-year prison sentence.

Another guy I visited had the record for the longest prison sentence being served by a British national anywhere in the world – he was serving over 1200 years, and he hadn’t even killed anyone.

One of my favourites was a guy who, when I visited him in jail, told me that he’d got drunk, killed his girlfriend and then had sex with her body. I was astonished. Then he said ‘That’s when I made my mistake.’ I remember thinking that he’d probably already made a few mistakes, but he went on to tell me that he’d panicked and taken her body to a local forest and buried it. He was caught and is now doing 30-years for manslaughter.

But that’s not all you did.  Any other work you became involved with, particularly regarding any natural disasters that occurred?  And how well did other Consulates pull together?

Hurricanes in Florida

The hurricane season in Florida – essentially June to December – was always interesting. One year we had four massive hurricanes all go through one-after-another during a two-month period. I had anticipated that we would get lots of assistance from other British consulates in the USA, but it didn’t work out quite that way. There was insufficient funding to give us the support we needed, which made the whole situation very difficult. I wrote to the FCO management to complain, but nobody wanted to hear it.

I note with interest that a lot of time is spent not speaking too favourably of Her Majesty’s Government with regards to procedures.  And after having read your book, I can agree that there seemed to be a lot of hyperbole, yet not much real action.  Any particular example you care to expand upon?

People who become consuls do so mostly so that they can be of assistance to those in need, but the British FCO acts, in many ways, like a corporation. Those two goals sometimes fail to work in tandem. A few years ago, amid much publicity, the FCO launched a scheme to give legal assistance to British inmates who had been subjected to legal procedures that are considered inappropriate in the European Union; this scheme included prisoners who, although under the age of sixteen, were tried and imprisoned as adults. I had two such cases in Florida and I submitted them for consideration. Despite repeated complaints and reminders from me, nothing was ever done to assist them.

You also regale the reader with your ongoing exploits with Cheryl, your long term girlfriend, who eventually wanted more than you could offer. Why did you include such personal information in the book?

There was little mention of my personal life in an earlier draft of my book. But, my publisher felt that readers would want to know more about me and asked me to include something of my own circumstances. I chose to write about my relationship with Cheryl (not her real name) principally for two reasons: the first was to illustrate that this was not going to be a stuffy book about international relations, but something entirely different; the second was because that although I write about many imperfect people who have made bad decisions and are perhaps deeply flawed in some ways, I wanted to show that I was not so very different myself and was not being judgemental.

The book ends with you leaving Orlando and returning to the UK.  Are you now back in the U.S. working?  If so, can you divulge in what capacity?

After I left Orlando, I continued to work for the FCO as the British consul in Marseilles; but I left the FCO after a year in France to return to London and write full-time. Three years ago I got married (not to Cheryl, I might add) and moved back to Florida, where my wife lives. I continue to write, full-time, but have not yet completed my next book, a work of fiction.

So there you have it ladies and gentlemen, I think you might be surprised to read this humorous and frank tale of a British Consul abroad.  I would highly recommend “Our Man from Orlando.”

“The Journey” – a look at the director behind the scenes

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LanceOnSetWe’re back with “The Journey” again—the film I spent twenty-four hours with on the Greek island of Aegina, back in the spring of 2013.  Lance Nielsen is the director and I interviewed him back in March 2013 about his project. 

The New Year of 2014 sees another Crowdfunding project drawing in—to raise funds to finalise this fantastic project, and I jumped at the chance to interview Lance again, this time on a more personal level.

 


Lance, from our last interview we learnt that “The Journey” is about a man who suffers a great loss and comes to Greece to overcome the recent events in his life.  Events that happen to him in Greece help him to overcome his grief.

“The Journey” is loosely based on your own personal experiences: you lost someone/people very dear to you.

LeavingCairo_1005942_545005958874749_897049677_nI will just prefix this interview by saying the time when the actual trip took place to Greece I was going through an extreme amount of grief, not just for one person, but several. At the end of 2008 , a couple of work colleagues passed away, both in a short space of time so their funerals  took place one day after the other.  After that my mother was diagnosed with cancer, and my Aunt was also diagnosed a week later – they both died within a week of each other in April 2009. That year is pretty hazy now.  Angela and I had known each other since 2004, but we didn’t really get close until 2008.

Who was Angela and how important was she to you?

Angela was a really tall, striking black girl –  British with Nigerian parentage. We met on the set of a film where she doing some background artist work.  She also worked often on the set of Eastenders and Holby City (UK soap/series drams). We were both adopted and because of this shared fact, we seemed to hit it off.  She wasn’t someone to let her guard down easily, but we just seemed to click…we were both quirky in our own way.

She seemed to ‘get’ me whereas not a lot of people really do.

Angela5
Angela

We stayed in touch, but didn’t really socialise properly again until the middle of 2008 when I wanted her to act in a project I was involved in: Jericho’s Walls Are Falling: a film about HIV.  Unfortunately she missed out on this as she was unable to take any time off work.

Her real passion was for her dolls.

She used to make dolls at home, dress and sell them on the net under the name Angela’s Angels. We socialised a few times, and I increasingly got the feeling she wanted to share something important with me.

In early 2009 she told me she wanted to write a book about a woman who experienced both sexual and mental abuse from within an African family.

Aspects of this were very autobiographical and she felt she needed to share this with people. As I didn’t have much experience with writing novels, I suggested we could perhaps do this as a play to start with and create the building blocks for the text of a novel at the same time.

As a result of this very personal disclosure about herself, I was also able to open up to her about many things

As friends, we became closer very quickly – it was one of those friendships where I knew we would be mates forever because of the nature of the things we had both been through.  At the same time my mother was dying very rapidly  and Angela, whom had lost her adopted mother some years earlier was very sympathetic and supportive – helping me to prepare for my mothers death. Around this time I also became estranged from my sister, so Angela helped to fill this role too.

What happened to her?  Can you tell us a little more about the events that led up to you’re wanting to just run from everything and come to Greece?

Around July 20th, Angela was at my house helping me go through and throw out my old video film collection. At one point she needed to sit down and told me she had actually gone to hospital only a week earlier as she had collapsed with a headache and had some kind of problem in her brain.

I was rather shocked and we left the work we were doing and had some lunch.  We arranged to go and see Harry Potter the following Tuesday, when I didn’t hear from her by Tuesday morning I became worried and called her – no answer.

Someone called back to say she had collapsed again over the weekend in her flat but wasn’t found until Monday.

I went into to see her on the Tuesday evening. There is a scene in the film which is very close to this, its one of the few parts of the film that is not fictional and every thing in that scene is was said between Angela and I, word for word, though the reality was much longer and I said more jokes to keep her laughing. She was very lucid and very scared, but by the time I left she was laughing. I made arrangements to stay near the hospital with a friend who lived close by.

I stayed that evening until they kicked me out but when I got to the bus stop something made me go back inside to see her again and I did so and made sure I told her that I was in love with her, and I realised I probably had been since we met.

Perhaps not in the traditional romantic sense, but at that moment I really needed her to know how much she meant to me. The following morning she went into a coma, and she died on the Friday.

What was it, specifically, that Greece helped you with?  Overcoming grief, loss?  Did you find people understood you and nurtured your spirit back to health?

 Come Sunday I was a mess.

I  hadn’t slept properly for about 5 days, and I got an email saying that my Dad’s twin brother –  my closest uncle –  died from pneumonia back in Denmark. At that point I think something inside me just broke in half. There was so much pain there and not a lot of anything else – I really couldn’t cope.

I was venting on-line in a chat room, thinking I needed to get away and asked if anyone had taken a boat down the Rhine, at this point a chat window opened and this complete stranger to me suggested a link to this island called Agistri and a hotel called Rosi’s Little Village.

He said he had been reading my comments on-line and could feel what I was going through.  He was stuck on the island because he missed the last ferry.

The people were so kind to him that he thought the place would be perfect for me.

Within 72 hours of that conversation, I was on the island of Agistri. I also visited Aegina while I was there, the island on which most of our filming has taken place so far.

I spent seven days on Agistri. Towards the end of my trip, I was befriended by a Greek couple and they offered to let me stay at their house in Athens – and I had only known them a couple of days! I did that on the way back, they have since become good friends.

One of them, Shirin, plays a character in the actual film: a character loosely based on the hotel owner I met.

The film is an incredibly personal one to make.  Do you feel you’re faced with personal difficulties when you see your past pain being bared for all to see?

You have to remember that although this story is inspired from a single event and moment of truth, I took that and made it into a fictional story.

I found out that I was not the only person to go to Greece under such circumstances and several people had made the same journey  and found peace in the country.

I didn’t want the story to be biographical, so I changed as much of it as possible;  brought in new characters, – but they all seem very real because parts of them were all taken from people I met on that or subsequent trips to Greece. All the conversations that happened were really said by someone though sometimes under different circumstances, so there is a strong sense of truth about the whole piece.

With the exception of the scene in the London hospital, which was a very faithful recreation of the last moments I spent with Angela Thomas, the rest of the film must be seen as a very fictional work, even if it is very personal to me still.

I think it will be hard not to cry when I finally get to see the film complete,

but that will I am sure be as much about experiencing the joy of seeing it finished for the first time as much as it be myself responding to the portrayals on screen.

Duncan Pow –  who plays Jason – even knew Angela himself from working on Holby City, so I didn’t have to convey to him how special she was…he already knew that and his pain was very visceral during his hardest scenes. It is a very impressive performance and I’m sure viewers will recognise this.

How did you find the location for filming?

During the recce we looked at various locations for the key hotel scenes. Eventually we were lucky to be offered a hotel owned by the Krassas family in Kavos Bay, Aegina, which we were given completely for free.

The family pretty much saved us from going under at one point when they also offered us free accommodation.

 Who do you think would benefit from seeing this particular film?  How can they relate and gain from it?

The film is about loss and how people deal with it in difference ways. It’s also about learning to listen and heed advice and receive help from others even when sometimes you do not really want it. I think in the modern era, it’s hard for someone to reach even the age of thirty and not have been faced with some kind of loss or another.

Bereavements and grief takes many forms.

When relationships end, it’s not always through death. I had a really good friend of seven years who suddenly, one day, cut several people out of his life including me. It was very hurtful and I still think about this even now because there was no closure. We found out later that there were other controlling forces in his life that made him do this, so even though I have forgiven him, I still miss and mourn the loss of the very special friendship we had.

This film covers not just the main character Jason, dealing with a loss, but other people too.

Someone else is going through a divorce and another man feels he has lost his country. So everyone in a way is trying to heal from something as well as trying to help each other – that is a core message of the film: that certain people are put on this earth to help you. They do it not for rewards or personal gain, they do it because they want to, they do it because they can.

Lance, this is a very personal project for you and I thank you for sharing your personal insight with Leaving Cairo. I look forward to coming back on set with you. Ladies and gentlemen, keep your eyes peeled for the new Crowdfunding Project to raise funds to enable “The Journey”‘s completion in the New Year.  And get in touch with myself or Lance for any further info.

Author Interview with Ekaterina Botziou – “Last Moussaka Standing…”

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I chanced upon Ekaterina Botziou on Twitter whilst looking around for other great authors who’ve written something about Greece. It turns out we’re both born in the same county in the UK (Essex—yes!  My secret’s revealed!  I’m an ‘Essex Girl’ really, and woe betide anyone who makes fun of this fact).  You can read more about Ekaterina through her blog.

Her book “Greek Expectations: The Last Moussaka Standing” is a very dry, funny look at life with a Greek man and all that comes with him—hint: not just his mother and father…expect the grandparents, cousins, second cousins, uncles, aunts, their neighbours, etc.  I thought I’d take this opportunity to expand and ask Ekaterina some more questions.


Hi!  Thanks so much for agreeing to this interview. I know you were born in Essex, but you’re half Greek (from Greece, not Cyprus).  Can you share with us a little about your background?

I’m not even sure where to start! My father is originally from Igoumenitsa, Greece although his family re-located to Athens in later years after a twelve year stint living in Germany.

Hard at work
Hard at work

My mother’s background is completely mixed. My Grandmother’s father was half French while her mother had an Irish background.  We traced our family tree and found one Irish surname had been ‘Seabrook’ while another had been ‘Puddyfat’. Which apparently translates as ‘Proud Foot’. I prefer Proud Foot to Puddyfat!

My mother’s father (my Grandad) has a very interesting background. He was brought up in the East end of London but his mother was Jewish, with a Russian and Polish background. His real father left when he was young and this is where it gets interesting.

My Grandad is convinced that his father is linked in some way to the Royal Family.

Bear with me!

Apparently when my Grandad’s mother and father married in a registry office back in the 1930s, my Great-Grandfather was flanked by two bodyguards who handed over his official documents to the registrar and watched over the service. Moreover, on his infrequent trips to see his father, my Grandad recalls one particular visit when they visited Cliveden House, the home of Lord Astor. At that time, you wouldn’t have been permitted entry to such a place without knowing the Astors themselves.

My Grandad believes that his father is the son of one of Queen Victoria’s grandsons. This could be George V, or his elder brother Albert Victor who died in 1891 or possibly one of their many cousins. Certain members of the Royal Family have long been known for their philandering ways and in those days, this was not unusual.

When my Nan and Grandad went to Somerset House to try and find out more information, they were taken into a room and told in no uncertain terms that their search would prove futile and they should stop looking.

So royal or not, my Grandad definitely comes from a dodgy background! He has a very good royal wave as well so I am quite sure there is some truth in it.

When did you meet your husband and in what circumstances did he ‘sweep you off your feet?’  Hailing from a semi-Greek background and maybe tales from your English mother, was your radar not tuned to be careful of Greeks?

Not sure about the whole ‘sweep you off your feet’ bit! I met him in his family’s Greek restaurant when I was looking for an extra weekend job to help pay the rent after I had moved to London. I probably should have known to avoid Greek family-run restaurants but it was clearly fate! I was a bit on my guard initially, but he wore me down with several helpings of baklava and in the end (three weeks later) I gave in. Within eight months we were engaged and I don’t remember much after that.

Ekaterina's Big Fat Greek Wedding
Ekaterina’s Big Fat Greek Wedding

“Last Moussaka Standing…” gives the reader a very accurate insight into a traditional Greek family, with some cringe worthy moments!  What was your main motivation for writing it?  To vent some frustrations, to genuinely share with us—the unsuspecting public—that we shouldn’t be sucked in by the sun, sea, sand and smooth talking Greek?

Exactly! Actually I started writing the book shortly before I got married. I had already set up my blog and was sharing stories about the horrors of preparing for a Big Fat Greek Wedding when I decided to do some research into self-help books that dealt with how to make a successful marriage. I couldn’t find any information on the topic of traditional Mediterranean relationships, so I decided to pick up my pen and write my own. I have since realised that when you are married to a Greek man, you need more than just a self-help book!

As well as a writer, Ekaterina is a P.A. in the finance sector and Part Time actress. How do your in-laws react to this—a modern day woman?   Do they expect you to be chained to the oven, producing moussaka’s for their son?

In a word, YES. I think it is fair to say that every Greek mother wants her son to be well looked after, although nowadays they also like to be able to tell people that their daughter-in-law has a very good job as well.

I never really discussed my career ambitions with my in laws in the beginning – even now I just prefer to say ‘Oh by the way I published this book the other day’ or ‘I had a part in that film you are now watching’ – it saves me a lot of time.

As I say in the book – the only careers deemed worthy by many of my older generation Greek relatives are that of a Doctor (not a nurse), an Accountant or a Lawyer and although I had studied Law, I wasn’t officially a fully qualified solicitor, and my activities in the world of film and television were not really believed. So I think all my (not-so-sudden) achievements are proving to be a bit of a shock.

I suppose I better warn them about my plans to run for Prime Minister.

Any more plans for a sequel?  I really enjoyed this book and would love to hear more about your life in London.

At the moment I’m focusing on writing for magazines and newspapers as well as my blog, but my Greek family continue to provide me with plenty of material for several literary sequels so watch this space.

 

Thanks so much Ekaterina (that’s not ‘Katerina’ folks, it’s Ekaterina, the proper Greek spelling). You can follow Ekaterina on her blog, Facebook and Twitter

Funny Americanisms

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Hi, I am Molly and I blog over at The Move to America which is where I document life and all that I encounter as a new UK expat living in Ohio, USA.
I made the big move to be with my American husband, whom I was in a long distance relationship (LDR) for over 4 years.

Hubby & me
Hubby & me

My first encounter with funny Americanisms was through talking to my husband.

He would often have a turn of phrase that was most amusing to me (the same applies vice versa too)! Since I have been here in the U.S. (I arrived October 4th 2013) I have noticed a few more things that I have found either amusing or rather endearing.

The biggest Americanism I have encountered so far is the way the store clerks greet you.

No matter what kind of establishment you are in, you will be greeted as you walk through the door, and may even have a very polite conversation with them. This was something that most Brits will not be used to, and may even view with a reserved, slightly awkward suspicion – or is that just me? In order to overcome this reserve of mine, I threw myself into the polite chit-chat with whomever I encountered, and may have ended up over sharing – I am still learning! There does seem to be a pattern to the patter and I am now fully prepared to tell them my day is going well, I found everything I need, I do not need anything else, and no, I do not want to buy a half price chocolate bar or other such item that may be on sale that day. This is not exclusive to the U.S. as I had noticed this type of discussion happening more and more in stores in the UK just before I left – it does, however, come across as more genuine here.

Another thing I have noticed is the volume, variety and availability of fizzy drinks (pop).

I always knew my husband drank the most enormous amount of this sugary, highly coloured soft drink, but what I was not prepared for was almost literally being awash with the stuff! We have fizzy drinks in the UK, and I will admit, I am not a huge fan of them, so I may be slightly biased on this point. When out at a meal, we will order fizzy drinks, and as I merrily sip on my giant glass, my husband will down the whole lot before I have even reached a quarter of the way through mine. This is when the refills arrive (free refills as soon as you finish) and he drinks that too, and maybe another one. I can barely get through one glass, and never get mine refilled. Now, this may sound like a husband-ism rather than an Americanism, but it highlighted for me how huge the amount of pop is consumed, and indeed available, in the States. There is literally aisle upon aisle dedicated to the plethora of flavours and brands – that actually goes for most food items. The choice available has been mind boggling on some shopping trips – luckily I have a local by my side to see me through the miles of aisles!

Shopping
Shopping in the U.S.

One other thing I have encountered is getting asked to explain various British customs, traditions, Royal or Parliamentary history or Benny Hill

(for those of you not at a certain age, or never heard of him, he was a British comedian with the uniquely British saucy, seaside humour – think beautiful young women being chased around by an older man – my overriding memory of watching his shows). I really enjoy answering questions about my birth country, and find it interesting what the perceptions or misunderstandings of Britain are. One question I have been asked many times by people of a younger generation (usually store clerks) is ‘Is it different?’ – and when asked in what way it is different . . . I often wonder where to begin!

I love my new home and the people and customs I have encountered so far, so if you want to continue to find out what other things I experience, please feel free to visit my blog or find me on the following links. Thanks for reading!

You can follow Molly on her blog and Pinterest.

Author Interview with Jeremy Dean – “Zen Kyu Maestro.”

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When “Jeremy José Dean” contacted me about reading and reviewing his book “Zen Kyu Maestro,” I wasn’t sure at first.  I had visions of a Buddhist self-help book (“The Tao of Pooh” –anyone remember that?) and wasn’t keen. But I accepted, and was soooooo glad I did! In actual fact, “Zen Kyu Maestro” is a very clever title for Dean’s book (not his real name – will we ever know who he is?).  Dean featured on my League of Expat Writers.  He is a teacher ‘somewhere’ in the depths of traditional Spain.  He won’t say where…probably to protect his identity & integrity as a teacher, and maybe to prevent an influx of tourists?  He likes traditional Spain just fine thanks.

                As a teacher myself, I jumped at the chance to interview him.

Jeremy commented in his book:

Learning a new language (and teaching my own as a foreign one) has [taught] me things about my mother tongue  that I’d never noticed before.

  I could relate! I knew I’d like reading this, and I wasn’t disappointed.

Copy of book provided free of charge by the author for review.


Jeremy, thanks so much for agreeing to this interview.  As an English teacher myself and having taught in the depths of Greece and been almost the ‘only foreigner,’ I found myself laughing aloud in places in your book.  I enjoyed it very much and am looking forward to hearing more from you.

What on earth possessed you & your wife to leave a ‘safe’ teaching job in Norfolk, the UK and move to a remote part of Spain?

The move to Spain was just a ‘right time of life’ decision. My wife and I have always loved travelling, and we’ve long suspected that you only ever scrape the surface of a country as a tourist. We did spend some time teaching in Kuwait and Japan when we were much younger, and these experiences confirmed that suspicion.  After the death of our parents we thought the time was right to try it on a more long-term basis. We’d been reasonably successful primary teachers, didn’t hate the job or the country, we just fancied a change? a new culture? better weather? As a wise old car mechanic once said to me, ‘Life isn’t a dress rehearsal.’

Spain as a destination had always been the obvious choice for us. Not too far away— but reasonably foreign (if we could stay away from the ‘Costas’, which we did). We’d seen a fair bit of the country as tourists and really liked it; the food, the people, the life in the streets, especially when there’s a fiesta on. Spain is a surprisingly diverse country; beaches, mountains, unspoilt villages, modern cities. The opportunity to learn the language was a major draw, but the reason we ended up in this particular non Costa, non English-speaking enclave was pure luck. This was where the school which we got jobs in (luckily) happened to be.

Spain photo

I can relate in a way, because I left a ‘safe’ existence in the UK to come to Greece, right at the start of the ‘crisis.’

It’s interesting you note that any other nationality in Spain is considered a foreigner, but if you’re a ‘Brit,’ you’re an expat. Can you explain that a little further…why do you think this is?

I think it’s only us ‘Brits’ who class ourselves as ‘expats’ (as opposed to ‘foreigners’) when we move abroad. I’ve heard British expats complaining about the amount of ‘foreigners’ coming into Spain, as if they themselves somehow didn’t count. And I once heard a large crowd of expat Brits bemoaning the number of foreigners back in the UK, ‘all eating their own food, speaking their own languages and living close to each other.’ And where did I hear this complaint? In a ‘British’ pub in Marbella serving fish’n’chips and Sunday roasts to the (large, resident) expat community. The comment was, of course, made in English. It’s quite bizarre.

You’ve been to other countries and mention the expat scene in Kuwait, for example.  It’s not for you, as you highlight.  Again, I can relate as the expat scene in Cairo was not for me either.

Why do you think the European expat scene differs and is better?  Is it because there’s more of a chance, maybe, (if you’re willing), for one to try to integrate into local culture ?  Did you ever make any Kuwaiti friends?

The thing about the ‘expat’ scene is that it can be very different wherever you go. In Kuwait the (British) expat scene which I witnessed centred on home-brewing (alcohol was illegal) and partying. It was difficult to make Kuwaiti friends, mainly because of the language barrier, but we did make friends with an Egyptian family whose daughter was in my wife’s class. We were only there for a year, so maybe it would have improved had we stayed longer.

I’m not sure I’d say the European expat scene is better per se, although we’ve much preferred living here. Some teachers in Kuwait loved the life there. And, to be honest, I can’t say very much about any expat scene here, as there isn’t really much of one, there are so few (British) foreigners in this part of Spain. The fact that we’ve managed to learn some Spanish has helped us to make some Spanish friends however, although I’ve read (and I think it’s true) that it’s quite difficult to break into some Spanish circles as family ties are so strong.

We’ve quite a high turnover of British staff at the school, so in the seven years we’ve been here different groups of staff have ‘got on’ (or not) in different ways. For a while there was quite a large group of youngish females who did a lot of ‘going out’ together. At the moment we’ve got another pretty large influx of newer staff and it’s not yet clear what sort of a social scene will develop. Linda and I have built up a mix of friends over the years we’ve been here; Spanish, Rumanian and British, but to be honest, our main ‘social’ activity is sitting in a quiet bar together watching the world go by.

You mention the café culture of Spain and how you and your wife have adapted well to it…me too in Greece!  I know I love the slow, no rush to buy another and move on. I also love the civilised drinking, not the ‘drink to get drunk’ culture.

Now about the kids.  You have a lovely dry sense of humour, and a great way with words that enables the reader to picture themselves in the classroom, listening to kids speak literally (anyone guessed what “Zen Kyu Maestro” could be yet?).

At first, it’s crazy to imagine that anyone’d want to send their child to an Immersion School (a school where all lessons are taught in a foreign language, so in this case, Spanish children were being taught totally in English).

You note that the parents seem to be attracted to the “famous old British traits of politeness, good manners…and discipline.”  (I find this in Greece too). How do you think this differs from Spanish schools then?  Don’t they have discipline?

That’s a difficult one, as we can only repeat what we hear from the parents who have decided to pay to send their children to us. While the majority cite positive reasons for coming here (mentioned above) as well as a desire for their children to be bilingual, we do hear complaints that some ‘local’ schools are not up to scratch. Having said that, anyone who works in the ‘private school’ sector outside the UK will know it’s not always true that ‘you get what you pay for’. Similarly, there are schools in the UK which people pay to avoid.

Bearing that in mind, I’m often amused when I hear parents praise us for our politeness, good manners and especially discipline. Whenever I hear this, I thank heavens that British newspapers (full of their horror-stories about the state of UK schools) are pretty much unavailable here. If the parents only heard what we say about the state of our education system at home, they might not be so ready to trust us to be doing things well. But having said that, the Spanish press do a fair bit of ‘school bashing’ themselves, so maybe that explains why some parents want to get out of the Spanish system.

And no, to my knowledge, nobody has cracked the Zen Kyu Maestro code before the end of the book. But I’m sure someone who has lived in Spain soon will.

I find Greek attitudes to kids differ vastly from British attitudes.  Kids are very much the centre of society, not a ‘seen and not heard’ mentality.  Kids can be in restaurants until midnight; running around the town square; the centre of attention. 

Do you think this alters the concept of discipline?

That’s such a difficult question. I often ponder exactly what is the ‘culture’ regarding children here. We live overlooking a large ‘parque’ which is playground to all the children who live in the surrounding blocks and then some. After school the park fills rapidly with footballers, bike-riders, skaters of all descriptions (except ice), skippers, insect-collectors… even tree-climbers! A little later the surrounding cafés fill with their parents, grandparents, tíos and tías (and us). This is spectacular ‘people-watching’ time and terrain, but it’s not easy to come to any decisive conclusions. It certainly seems (to my British eyes) that the children are running riot. As I said, they’re swinging from the trees, footballs bash into the parked cars, camareros are nearly mown down by groups of six-year-olds hurtling along the pavement on pink cycles fitted with noisy stabilisers… And all the while their parents and friends chat and joke and drink cafés and cañas. Deep inside I love it, and despite all the apparent chaos there does seem to be some sort of discipline.

We’ve never seen a ‘fight’. (We’ve been here nearly eight years.) This is true in school as well, with one exception (in secondary), and that was more of a tussle than what I’d term a real (blows landed) scrap. In my last school in the UK there was at least one real set-to in the playground every couple of weeks. But again, my last school in the UK wasn’t typical, and neither is my school here typical of Spain. This is why generalisations are so difficult. All I can really say is; I love what I see here, (especially the tree climbing!)

One other aspect I’ll mention is the care taken of younger childrenby older ones: you see this all the time. Sweaty footballers stopping to pick up a tot who’s run their trike off the path and tumbled onto the ‘pitch’; groups of teenagers splitting to make way for the marauding pink cycle gang without breaking the flow of their conversation; large children climbing trees to rescue balls for very small children. There’s so much ‘live and let live’.

Yes, I will have another café con leche.

café con leche photo
Photo by Biker Jun

And lastly, I take it you’ve stayed in Spain. How’s your Spanish coming along?  Still facing challenges with the bureaucratic processes?

My Spanish continues to develop at a slower pace than the children in my class improve their English. (I guess I could take a brownie point for being a great teacher… and a hundred lines for being a poor student!) After the initial shock of not being fluent after the first year, we’re resigned to slow (but hopefully inexorable) progress.

As for the bureaucracy, that’s much easier once you’ve been through the first year (and learned a bit more of the lingo). Spain certainly has its faults (like the bureaucracy), and it’s going through a very hard economic period, but it’s still a great country with vibrant fiestas, fabulous food, a wonderful café culture… and the craziest schoolchildren you’re ever likely to meet.

¡Un Saludo!

Jeremy.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.  I would really recommend “Zen Kyu Maestro” to everybody, not only the teachers among us…to anyone who’s ever moved abroad for any length of time and can laugh and nod along with the frustrations examined in Jeremy’s book.

You can follow Jeremy Jose Dean on Facebook where his jeremyinspain profile charts his life (as an expat), while the zenkyumaestro page deals with news and background about the book with sneak previews of the sequel (working title is Zenky 2). He’s also on Twitter @JeremyJoseDean and blogs at zenkyumaestro.blogspot.com.es/ (life in Spain) and spain4primary.blogspot.com.es/ (resources for primary MFL Spanish teachers).


Featured image courtesy of www.amazon.co.uk

Coco-Mat Hotel Nafsika in Kifissia, Athens

I was very lucky this Saturday 5th October!I had the pleasure of being offered one night free by Coco-Mat in Kifissia, a rather swanky Northern suburb in Athens. Coco-Mat was established in 1989 here in Greece…if you’ve not heard of them, they’re Award-Winning makers of quality mattresses, pillows sleep products, towels & furniture. They have stores around Greece and various places in Europe, the Middle East, the U.S.A.and Asia including France, Spain, The Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, Saudi Arabia, New York, China & South Korea.

The Coco-Mat concept of wellbeing for all by creating a truly restful night’s sleep has migrated into the company opening a series of Hotels and Resorts around Europe. And I spent the night in their Nafsika Hotel, Kifissia, Athens. Only opened for a year and a half, what awaited me? How was the experience? What’s all this fuss about pillows and beds?

The company has a simple philosophy: to make your stay feel as if you’re at home. And I have to say, they’ve created an ambiance that certainly reflects this. From the moment you step through the front door, the open plan ‘reception’ / relaxation area / restaurant plays its role.   Cleverly there is a lot of light, open space and an open kitchen. The ability to see through the glass into the kitchen area goes one step further into ensuring a homely atmosphere.

Open plan
Open plan reception – Coco-Mat Hotel – Nafsika

They go further by providing you with their top quality mattresses and pillows. And believe me, I slept like a baby.

Sleep is vital to wellbeing

Slept like a baby
Slept like a baby – bedroom – Coco-Mat Hotel Nafsika

I usually sleep very well, but didn’t realise how much better I could sleep until I slept on a Coco-Mat bed and pillows.  After a delicious dinner of spinach risotto, I had a lovely long, hot shower in the monsoon style bathroom, then crawled into bed for some cable TV (another little luxury for me).  An hour later I was fast asleep, head nestled into the goose down pillow, body firmly moulded into the gorgeous mattress.  I awoke rejuvenated (not quite jumping out of bed)—and ready for breakfast.

Open plan kitchen
Open plan kitchen in Coco-Mat Nafsika Hotel

Muesli, fresh orange juice and a buffet selection of cheeses, home-made bread, halva and cheese pies awaited me. I could have had fresh coffee and a range of teas too.

Other hotels

I would jump at the chance to stay in another Coco-Mat Hotel.  In Greece they offer locations in Athens, Serifos, Halkidiki, Karpenisi, Korinthia, Karitsa Larisas, Alonissos, Milos and Karpenisi as well as a the sailing boat ANEMOLIA which provides exceptional cruising holidays in the Sporades and North Aegean Islands (yes please!). COCO-MAT Hotel Nafsika in Kifissia, Athens (where I stayed) is perfect for business and pleasure alike. If I’d wanted to explore Kifissia more closely, I could have done so by borrowing one of their bicycles (unfortunately I don’t trust myself not to fall off into the path of an approaching car, otherwise I would have done).
Rates at the Hotel Nafsika in Kifissia, Athens start at 115 Euros per room per night for a Double, rising to 150 Euros per night for the Suite.   Whether you’re coming to Athens (or Greece) for business or pleasure, I’d highly recommend Coco-Mat Hotels for their ambiance, healthy food and, of course, a guaranteed peaceful night’s sleep.


Thanks for hosting me! See you in another hotel sometime.


If you have something in Athens or Greece that you’re keen to promote, contact Bex to see if we can arrange to help promote.  Greek made clothes?  Small guesthouse? Sailing holiday?  Doesn’t matter – we can discuss.  Look forward to hearing from you!

Hair, Make-up & photoshoot in Athens

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What fun times can be had when you live in such an eclectic city such as Athens, Greece! (And when you utilise Facebook properly).  Let me explain:

I belong to a Closed FB group for Foreign Girls living in Athens.  We offer advice, ask questions, arrange get togethers.  One lovely girl, Alexandra Adriana is a hairdresser here in Athens and was interested in advancing her portfolio.  She gathered about eight of us together and spent HOURS over the course of a fortnight completely re-styling and colouring our hair.

Sunday, 22nd September dawned bright and early.  Off I trekked down to Voula (on the coast of Athens) and met the rest of the girls, along with make-up artist Eva Parissi.  Very exciting: we were all going to be photographed by Montse G de Nikas, photographer extraordinare!  And we were all going to be photographed on a wooden sailing yacht.

Header Pic

Well, as you can imagine, we all had a great time!  A long day absolutely flew by, and we all came away with stunning new looks, and amazing make-up. Montse is a true professional, and made us all feel very relaxed and not at all stupid (well, I felt a little self-conscious, but not for long!)

Make-Up artist busy at work

Take a look here at some of my pics of the day…you’ll see just what fun we had, great friends were made and you’ll get an idea into the sorts of activities one can get up to when linking up through groups on Facebook…a tool for promoting harmony!

I want to thank each and every one of you for making the day fantastic.  Alex Adriana’s idea to link us all together in this project was a brilliant one.  It’s great to have met so  many interesting people.